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Awesome shot Alastair.
Nice results on those night shots.
Now thats sharp Alastair, great shot.
Thanks all.. there's something very satisfying about night photography.
Awesome shot Alastair.
Nice results on those night shots.
Now thats sharp Alastair, great shot.
@ Alan
really enjoy #1....quintessential ''lone walk over the moors''
going to buy some Ilford XP2 asap too
Ektar 100, 30 seconds, f/8
Cheers
I think you'll like XP2, all of the shots on that film I also did on digital. They took several hours of tinkering to get how I like, then a week later I pick up my developed film, and they already look right straight out the envelope!
Fruitflakes - what's the story behind the first one? very captivating
Ektar 100, 30 seconds, f/8
Mamiya RB67 Pro S, Mamiya Sekor C 90mm
The trip out to the harbour on Sunday night was in response to this story in the local paper (discuss elsewhere if you want, let's not clutter up this thread).
Thanks, I knew there had to be a story behind it,Last Summer at Shakespeare's Globe they had a production of Macbeth, and one interesting feature was a black cloth that covered the standing area, which represented Hell. Braver members of the audience poked their heads through that cloth, and actors ran around under that cloth scaring people by pickpocketing them (which was rather funny) or popping out in adjacent slits all bloodied and screaming.
Lightroom. I scan the negatives and then clean them-up in Lightroom. And I'm quite comfortable making full use of the hybrid process to try and balance the colours if artificial light is involved. Multiple light sources of different colour temperature and characteristic are a pain, where I can't avoid this situation I'll balance on an average and then have a play about until they look the least bad. Generally I'll correct for the worst (sodium or mercury vapour) and hope the others tend towards a slight blueness(always looks best) rather than yellow or green.Hi Alastair,
How did you get the colours so balanced in this? Whenever I use film at night I end up with odd colour casts due to the rubbish lights. Was it just a case of there not being any other lights around, or was there a trick
Thanks.. It was a deliberate choice to go with an expanse of road rather than an expanse of bare sky or a contrived balance of the two. I'm being influenced by a contact on Flickr to try and frame my shots a little less conventionally than I used to do.Great picture btw , I'd have been tempeted to crop some more out of the road but thats just me
Lightroom. I scan the negatives and then clean them-up in Lightroom. And I'm quite comfortable making full use of the hybrid process to try and balance the colours if artificial light is involved.
...
And before you ask, 2:1 is the ratio of Hydrogen to Oxygen
...And before you ask, 2:1 is the ratio of Hydrogen to Oxygen
Could end up like Poor old Sean O'Cold (Check the toe-tag!)As seen on a Local Headstone...
Here Lies a Lab Assistant
They Found Him on the Floor
for What he Thought was H20
Was H2SO4
Shot and developed my first roll of film at the weekend!
Asahi Pentax Spotmatic + Takumar 55mm F1.8 / Kodak Tri-X 400 - D-76 1:1
I am busy trying to develop film, scan (yuk!) and get some pics up of my gear (so little time...)
Ecclesall Road-- Tailors window - Something must have caught my eye!
Tailor's Maid
Super', well done - that's a nice set. I think it can be even better with just a little 'jinking' :
Can you post your developing times and mixes please for the Rollei and the Rodinal ( post the whole process please)
Thanks
Not sure I got this right, but brilliant to you all and Mark as usual you make me smile.. Yes just previewed and it,s correct.
Thanks! I know they could be better, but by the time i'd got them all scanned i didn't want to put too much effort into it.
All the chemicals are Firstcall Photographic own brand, definitely recommend them (used AG Plus fix). This is what i worked out, a lot of it was just guesswork, like the wash in between stop and fix:
And before you ask, 2:1 is the ratio of Hydrogen to Oxygen
...
Stop bath as it's name suggests stops development as soon as it touches the film, water is not strong enough and development will continue past the time.
Curious to know why the wash between dev and stop and stop/fix? Stop bath as it's name suggests stops development as soon as it touches the film, water is not strong enough and development will continue past the time.
Hence the question mark next to it, i wasn't sure if it was necessary - but i figured that the stop might effect the fix or something and figured that it couldn't hurt to try.
Stop will prolong the life of fixer.
Dev is alkaline, fix is acid, so if you don't use stop it shortens the life of the fixer as you are adding alkaline developer to acidic fix.
Unless you are using Pyro as suggested above, it really isn't necessary, and stop lasts for ages, use it until it turns to purple, which will take a very long time.
I must admit that it is intimidating posting in this thread, but here goes. Cheap and cheasy 99 cents film through my sp2 and 35mm super tak
Cookies anyone