Suze, do try the camera at ISO 1600 before you spend any money, you may get away with it. I've tried it tonight and find it will take exceptable in very low light, with the standard lens. I have edited my instructions in my previous post as they were incorrect. (working from memory at work)
If you have to spend money try this -
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Nikon-AF-S-DX-35mm-f1-8G/dp/B001S2PPT0
This is a fantastic lens for people photography and great in low light.
Suze, do try the camera at ISO 1600 before you spend any money, you may get away with it. I've tried it tonight and find it will take exceptable in very low light, with the standard lens. I have edited my instructions in my previous post as they were incorrect. (working from memory at work)
If you have to spend money try this -
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Nikon-AF-S-DX-35mm-f1-8G/dp/B001S2PPT0
This is a fantastic lens for people photography and great in low light.
this a better lens too btw? http://www.jessops.com/online.store/products/19693/show.html
That won't AF on a D60. IMHO 30 or 50mm will be no where near long enough for what you want to use it for.
not possible to creating a 'flash' area sadly.
I will try on friday to do this before i go out and buy a lens.....
If i have to i will wait to buy the more expensive lens (the one recomended).... but the one that AF's....
buying another camera is NOT an option!!
if anything i will abandon agility and move over to obedience..... which is slightly slowe and ok still in indoors but only till april then its moved outdoors then i wont have a problem will i???
even then i would still prefer to have access to a faster lens.
Ach, if yer talking about a D700, the cheaper option is a Nikon D70 Film SLR and some Fuji Superia 1600
mmm.... *slopes off to ebay...*
so sigma/tamrons fit nikons?
f/2.8 is only two stops lower than f/5.6. F/1.8 is only three and a bit stops, plus very shallow depth of field.
Why can't you create a flash area? You don't have to be anywhere near it with radio triggers - they'll fire from tens of metres away.
Don't go spending money on a lens that won't do the job. Unless you can get the light level up, even an expensive lens won't actually do much.
More often than not, flashes aren't allowed at animal shows and certainly not within the show arena itself. Not only can it distracct the animals but the spectators will not appreciate the constant flashes.
D70 FILM camera?
im in cheshire...
will see what happpens on friday and if neccessary i'l go for the f1.4
Sorry, won't focus on the D60, which is a shame but that's how they keep the cost of the camera body down.
Nikon lenses need to be AF-S designated to autofocus on the D60.
Daft thing is, you could buy a Nikon D50 and that lens (which would work together) and it would cost less than the equivalent lens that would work on the D60.
Anyway, the shortcomings you are beginning to understand are the reasons I'm now looking to upgrade my D60.
Why would you want a D50 when you have a D60? Do you not mean a D5000?
Reason Nawty is gettin at is the D50 has an on body motor, the D60 doesn't. Hence why the 50mm 1.8 would work on the D50
I can't understand why you would want a 50mm f/1.4 for this type of work.
I know this has been said already but:
Shooting wide open, you will struggle to nail the focus on a moving animal at f/1.4 aperture and the depth of field will likely be insufficient to get a good show of the animal.
If your 70-300 lens is a VR, you get 3-4 stops advantage from VR which is the equivalent of going from f4 down to f1.4 even accounting for the advantage of being handheld at 50mm versus 70mm (i.e. you can handhold and a lower shutter speed).
You will lose the flexibility of having a zoom lens and the range of shots (from close up to wider) that it will achieve.
Yes the 50mm f/1.4 will be good in low light but I can't see how it will give you the level of improvement you are looking for when shooting in very difficult conditions with a D60.
Why would you want a D50 when you have a D60? Do you not mean a D5000?
thanks for the comments
well perhaps i should go for the manual 1.4 - yes i know the argument on this it makes life far more difficult bu i already have a manual 70-300mm which on the shots ive done i cope well with imo!
so for less than £100 as a stop gap that wouldny hurt? yet £300 would.
for the £100 one i would buy that today, and give it 5/6 weeks and i will have enough money for a £6/700 lens. but i just dont have 5/6 weeks to wait for the 1.4!!
so using autofocus it was still bad??
tbh im slowly abandoning the idea lol....
until i can get my ther monies i may just wait.....
so using autofocus it was still bad??
tbh im slowly abandoning the idea lol....
until i can get my ther monies i may just wait.....
That's the point I was making. At f1.4, the depth of field is wafer thin and if autofocus has problems, manual focus will be nigh on impossible. That said, you may get away with f2 but your technique would need to be spot on. This is one of the reasons the pros use expensive bodies with top notch high ISO performance and f2.8 lenses.
It's your choice, we're just pointing out the potential problems.