Shutter speed (nikon d60)

thank :)

i'll stick a wanted add up...

what sort of price 2nd hand??

will be looking at ebay too and googling etc. :)
 
Suze, do try the camera at ISO 1600 before you spend any money, you may get away with it. I've tried it tonight and find it will take exceptable in very low light, with the standard lens. I have edited my instructions in my previous post as they were incorrect. (working from memory at work)

If you have to spend money try this -

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Nikon-AF-S-DX-35mm-f1-8G/dp/B001S2PPT0

This is a fantastic lens for people photography and great in low light.
 
Suze, do try the camera at ISO 1600 before you spend any money, you may get away with it. I've tried it tonight and find it will take exceptable in very low light, with the standard lens. I have edited my instructions in my previous post as they were incorrect. (working from memory at work)

If you have to spend money try this -

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Nikon-AF-S-DX-35mm-f1-8G/dp/B001S2PPT0

This is a fantastic lens for people photography and great in low light.

thanks :)

im going to practise friday :D

(thank god..) :LOL:

so will try the tips everyone has said and keep my fingers crossed!!!

i do this on the 70-300mm??

or do i get up close (possible!)) and use the 18-55mm??


this a better lens too btw? http://www.jessops.com/online.store/products/19693/show.html
 
Suze, do try the camera at ISO 1600 before you spend any money, you may get away with it. I've tried it tonight and find it will take exceptable in very low light, with the standard lens. I have edited my instructions in my previous post as they were incorrect. (working from memory at work)

If you have to spend money try this -

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Nikon-AF-S-DX-35mm-f1-8G/dp/B001S2PPT0

This is a fantastic lens for people photography and great in low light.

Given that she wants it for dog agility photography, doubt it will be of much use to her. I have my doubts that 50mm is truly long enough, let alone 30mm.

If truthful, i doubt 1600 ISO will be anywhere near enough to get a useable shutter speed at f5.6
 
That won't AF on a D60. IMHO 30 or 50mm will be no where near long enough for what you want to use it for.

I tend to agree, although of course we don't know how close she can get to the dogs. The ideal solution would the the 85mm f/1.8, but of course it won't AF on the D60. There seems to be a hole in Nikon's lens range here, a fast long budget AF-S prime, ie an AF-S version of the 85mm. There doesn't seem to be any alternative from the 50mm f/1.4 AF-S until we get to the 70-200 f/2.8 AF-S at over a grand. Maybe the best option is to buy a second hand D50 or D80 which will AF with AF-D lenses, and then the lens market is far wider and cheaper.

To the OP - again, be careful you are sure the 50mm is long enough for you - you'll need to get in close to the dogs. And it'll take some careful focusing at f/1.4!
 
50mm won't be anywhere near long enough. Apart from being too short, things move much more quickly when you are close to them, relative to the camera, which just compounds the shutter speed problem.

If you are to have any hope of cracking this one by throwing money at it, then a D700 and 200mm f/2 lens would probably be the way. £5k.

There is not a realistic camera/lens or technique solution available here - you just needs more light.

How about lighting a small area with three remote flash guns on stands? You could create a 'light tunnel' where the dogs have to run - Yongnuo flashes on Konig stands, fired by RF-602 radio triggers - problem solved for £200.

And the results would be much better than any mega-camera outfit, shooting at sensible ISO and moderate f/number, with attractive light. Take a look at Our Graham's Flash Emporium http://www.talkphotography.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=157807

For example, assuming the dogs are running towards you at three-quarters front angle, then two lights to one side creating a pool/tunnel of light, with the third one on the opposite side of the dogs firing a little towards the camera to pick out the outline from the background and create an attractive effect. Use second-curtain sync to put any ambient blur behind the direction of movement though I can't beleive that will even be an issue at this particular place.

If that's a practical possibility, it will give easily the best result. You could also take the same basic set up and recreate it at any venue.
 
Ach, if yer talking about a D700, the cheaper option is a Nikon D70 Film SLR and some Fuji Superia 1600 :LOL:

mmm.... *slopes off to ebay...*
 
not possible to creating a 'flash' area sadly.

I will try on friday to do this before i go out and buy a lens.....

If i have to i will wait to buy the more expensive lens (the one recomended).... but the one that AF's....

buying another camera is NOT an option!!

if anything i will abandon agility and move over to obedience..... which is slightly slowe and ok still in indoors but only till april then its moved outdoors then i wont have a problem will i???

even then i would still prefer to have access to a faster lens.
 
To be fair, a 70-200 f2.8 will probably be the one to aim for. If you look at the Sigma/Tamron versions, you might not have to save too many more pennies to be able to afford a 2nd hand one.
 
so sigma/tamrons fit nikons?

ive always looked at pure nikon lenses as my mate told me to stick with 1 make but tbh pennies wise i dont mind at all looking at other makes...

as long as it does the job :)
 
f/2.8 is only two stops lower than f/5.6. F/1.8 is only three and a bit stops, plus very shallow depth of field. :thinking:

not possible to creating a 'flash' area sadly.
I will try on friday to do this before i go out and buy a lens.....

If i have to i will wait to buy the more expensive lens (the one recomended).... but the one that AF's....

buying another camera is NOT an option!!

if anything i will abandon agility and move over to obedience..... which is slightly slowe and ok still in indoors but only till april then its moved outdoors then i wont have a problem will i???

even then i would still prefer to have access to a faster lens.

Why can't you create a flash area? You don't have to be anywhere near it with radio triggers - they'll fire from tens of metres away.

Don't go spending money on a lens that won't do the job. Unless you can get the light level up, even an expensive lens won't actually do much.
 
Hi Suze, I've just bought a lens for my D300 for dog agility and horse photos (amongst other uses). I went for a second hand Sigma 70-200 F2.8 HSM @ £360 after some research, the Tamron equivalent is a little slower to focus, so may not track the dogs as well and the Nikon versions are more expensive. You may also want to consider the Sigma 50-150mm f/2.8. I'll be trying the Sigma 70-200 F2.8 out over the the next few weeks so will let you know how I get on. Where are you based?
 
Ach, if yer talking about a D700, the cheaper option is a Nikon D70 Film SLR and some Fuji Superia 1600 :LOL:

mmm.... *slopes off to ebay...*

D70 FILM camera? :wacky:

so sigma/tamrons fit nikons?

As long as they're Nikon fit ones, yes. Make sure that any Sigma one is HSM, Sigma's version of AF-S so it can AF on the D60.
 
f/2.8 is only two stops lower than f/5.6. F/1.8 is only three and a bit stops, plus very shallow depth of field. :thinking:



Why can't you create a flash area? You don't have to be anywhere near it with radio triggers - they'll fire from tens of metres away.

Don't go spending money on a lens that won't do the job. Unless you can get the light level up, even an expensive lens won't actually do much.

More often than not, flashes aren't allowed at animal shows and certainly not within the show arena itself. Not only can it distracct the animals but the spectators will not appreciate the constant flashes.
 
More often than not, flashes aren't allowed at animal shows and certainly not within the show arena itself. Not only can it distracct the animals but the spectators will not appreciate the constant flashes.

Okay, cheers Marc. I just thought it was perhaps more of a practical/range problem.
 
im in cheshire...

will see what happpens on friday and if neccessary i'l go for the f1.4 :)
 
im in cheshire...

will see what happpens on friday and if neccessary i'l go for the f1.4 :)

If you go for a prime then make sure it has enough reach for you... try out the focal length on your current zooms set to that focal length and don't move it for a while and see how it goes.
 
ok 1 more then i bog off!! :LOL: (no joking)!

http://www.jessops.com/online.store/products/19693/show.html

this ^^^ (think i posted earlier)

disregard the distance - i can deal with that

autofocuses right?? (which is what i need - not manual)....

technically should be able to deal with cr*p light??? (the indoors)

and would put me on for another month or 2 till i get my SL and get a much better lens?? (longer distance) but for now i can cope??

??thoughts.??
 
Sorry, won't focus on the D60, which is a shame but that's how they keep the cost of the camera body down.

Nikon lenses need to be AF-S designated to autofocus on the D60.
 
Sorry, won't focus on the D60, which is a shame but that's how they keep the cost of the camera body down.

Nikon lenses need to be AF-S designated to autofocus on the D60.

d*mn:LOL:

ok i'll keep looking!! :(
 
Daft thing is, you could buy a Nikon D50 and that lens (which would work together) and it would cost less than the equivalent lens that would work on the D60.

Anyway, the shortcomings you are beginning to understand are the reasons I'm now looking to upgrade my D60.
 
lol how much are the D50's???

matter of intrest fo course :p

im not stopping looking yet as thats the lens i want/need and tbh may end up buying it next week :eek:

but will do more scouting round first :)
 
Daft thing is, you could buy a Nikon D50 and that lens (which would work together) and it would cost less than the equivalent lens that would work on the D60.

Anyway, the shortcomings you are beginning to understand are the reasons I'm now looking to upgrade my D60.

Why would you want a D50 when you have a D60? Do you not mean a D5000?
 
A D50 opens up a load of cheaper, non AF-S lenses, with the most useful to Suze probably being the 50mm f/1.8 (cheap and fast).
 
Reason Nawty is gettin at is the D50 has an on body motor, the D60 doesn't. Hence why the 50mm 1.8 would work on the D50

I was always under the impression that the D50 was an inferior model when compared to the D60.

I'm learning something new every day it seems? :)
 
I can't understand why you would want a 50mm f/1.4 for this type of work.

I know this has been said already but:

Shooting wide open, you will struggle to nail the focus on a moving animal at f/1.4 aperture and the depth of field will likely be insufficient to get a good show of the animal.

If your 70-300 lens is a VR, you get 3-4 stops advantage from VR which is the equivalent of going from f4 down to f1.4 even accounting for the advantage of being handheld at 50mm versus 70mm (i.e. you can handhold and a lower shutter speed).

You will lose the flexibility of having a zoom lens and the range of shots (from close up to wider) that it will achieve.

Yes the 50mm f/1.4 will be good in low light but I can't see how it will give you the level of improvement you are looking for when shooting in very difficult conditions with a D60.
 
I can't understand why you would want a 50mm f/1.4 for this type of work.

I know this has been said already but:

Shooting wide open, you will struggle to nail the focus on a moving animal at f/1.4 aperture and the depth of field will likely be insufficient to get a good show of the animal.

If your 70-300 lens is a VR, you get 3-4 stops advantage from VR which is the equivalent of going from f4 down to f1.4 even accounting for the advantage of being handheld at 50mm versus 70mm (i.e. you can handhold and a lower shutter speed).

You will lose the flexibility of having a zoom lens and the range of shots (from close up to wider) that it will achieve.

Yes the 50mm f/1.4 will be good in low light but I can't see how it will give you the level of improvement you are looking for when shooting in very difficult conditions with a D60.

While I agree with most of that, VR is no use in this situation - VR reduces camera movement, not subject movement.
 
thanks for the comments :)

well perhaps i should go for the manual 1.4 - yes i know the argument on this it makes life far more difficult bu i already have a manual 70-300mm which on the shots ive done i cope well with imo!

so for less than £100 as a stop gap that wouldny hurt? yet £300 would.

for the £100 one i would buy that today, and give it 5/6 weeks and i will have enough money for a £6/700 lens. but i just dont have 5/6 weeks to wait for the 1.4!!
 
Why would you want a D50 when you have a D60? Do you not mean a D5000?

cos the d50 has on board focusing (y)

ok why has no one mentioned the NIKON 70-300 vr lens can be had second hand for £300 quid and will work fine on a D60 :love: also don,t forget that when you get a new lens your old lens is then sold so a little cash back.hth mike
 
thanks for the comments :)

well perhaps i should go for the manual 1.4 - yes i know the argument on this it makes life far more difficult bu i already have a manual 70-300mm which on the shots ive done i cope well with imo!

so for less than £100 as a stop gap that wouldny hurt? yet £300 would.

for the £100 one i would buy that today, and give it 5/6 weeks and i will have enough money for a £6/700 lens. but i just dont have 5/6 weeks to wait for the 1.4!!

Manual focus with a 70-300 at f4/f5.6 is one thing, but fast moving subjects at f1.4 is a whole different thing. I once tried photographing horse trotting (Infinitely slower than dogs) using autofocus and didn't et anything useable.
 
so using autofocus it was still bad??

tbh im slowly abandoning the idea lol....

until i can get my ther monies i may just wait.....
 
so using autofocus it was still bad??

tbh im slowly abandoning the idea lol....

until i can get my ther monies i may just wait.....

That's the point I was making. At f1.4, the depth of field is wafer thin and if autofocus has problems, manual focus will be nigh on impossible. That said, you may get away with f2 but your technique would need to be spot on. This is one of the reasons the pros use expensive bodies with top notch high ISO performance and f2.8 lenses.

It's your choice, we're just pointing out the potential problems.
 
so using autofocus it was still bad??

tbh im slowly abandoning the idea lol....

until i can get my ther monies i may just wait.....

My 70-200 F2.8 has arrived and I've got a couple of dog agility practice sessions set up this week, so will let you know how they go.
F1.4 has a very shallow depth of field, so although you will let more light through, it will be very difficult to get the focus right and even more difficult with a manual lens. I can't see how 50mm is going to give you enough reach either.
 
That's the point I was making. At f1.4, the depth of field is wafer thin and if autofocus has problems, manual focus will be nigh on impossible. That said, you may get away with f2 but your technique would need to be spot on. This is one of the reasons the pros use expensive bodies with top notch high ISO performance and f2.8 lenses.

It's your choice, we're just pointing out the potential problems.

I think one of the problems is that people will look at you taking photo's with your DLSR and think "cor, they must be good, I bet they can take great pictures, I'll ask them to shoot for me" without actually realising how difficult that can be in certain situations.
 
Back
Top