Sigma 150-600 mm f/5-6.3 DG OS HSM SPORTS owners thread

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quiet quiet happy with mine now mike ,the settings i put in at the weekend with the usb dock i.e 'dynamic o.s" and " af set to focus point priority" have changed the way the lens works .its like chalk and cheese wish i had done it sooner ,now not only getting sharper shots there consistently better .
from your earlier comments mike i think you may well have had a faulty one as the stabiliser can be heard working and from your unanswered question i presume yours didn't
@the black fox Do you know what "af set to focus point priority" equates to on the Nikon version?
 
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richie
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How did everybody calibrate there lens ive jo idea if im honest as mine has gone soft and its doing my head in
 
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How did everybody calibrate there lens ive jo idea if im honest as mine has gone soft and its doing my head in
TBH I haven't done much except quickly try with a Spyder Lenscal and then setup the lens with the USB Dock for C1.
On Friday I have access to a large hall so will be using Raikan Focal Pro to get the various settings to put into the AF Tuning using the USB Dock.
 
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richie
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Is riken focal pro worth it looked at it a few times I never really committed to getting the software
And I'm assuming you would need a well-lit area and a good Focus chat to aim for
TBH I haven't done much except quickly try with a Spyder Lenscal and then setup the lens with the USB Dock for C1.
On Friday I have access to a large hall so will be using Raikan Focal Pro to get the various settings to put into the AF Tuning using the USB Dock.
 
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Lighting needs to be good for accurate results (much like actually getting a good photo) and you can either print out your own chart or buy a hard copy from Raikan (which I did). For me the software takes out the guesswork caused by my old eyes and it has worked well on several lenses ... some older reviews trash it and to be honest there was a time in the past when it didn't work well for some people e.g. it wouldn't work with either of my Nikon D3S bodies but the new software is good. :)

Of course if your eyes are good there are other methods such as Dot-Tune, lining up batteries etc etc
 
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Rite i might have a look and invest does it work with the tc attached aswell.

How much did you pay for your software
Lighting needs to be good for accurate results (much like actually getting a good photo) and you can either print out your own chart or buy a hard copy from Raikan (which I did). For me the software takes out the guesswork caused by my old eyes and it has worked well on several lenses ... some older reviews trash it and to be honest there was a time in the past when it didn't work well for some people e.g. it wouldn't work with either of my Nikon D3S bodies but the new software is good. :)

Of course if your eyes are good there are other methods such as Dot-Tune, lining up batteries etc etc
 
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Rite i might have a look and invest does it work with the tc attached aswell.

How much did you pay for your software
On Nikon cameras it identifies the lens with and without the TC ... the only issue with testing with a TC fitted is having the target distance sufficient for the test. A 600mm lens needs around 12m minimum so with TC it will be more but Raikan have a distance calculator page where you can input camera body and lens focal length and it will tell you the minimum distance to fix the test chart.
I can't remember what I paid now but all prices are on their site. :)
 
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That might be a minor issue however might have a soloution in the workshop at work which is fairly well lit
On Nikon cameras it identifies the lens with and without the TC ... the only issue with testing with a TC fitted is having the target distance sufficient for the test. A 600mm lens needs around 12m minimum so with TC it will be more but Raikan have a distance calculator page where you can input camera body and lens focal length and it will tell you the minimum distance to fix the test chart.
I can't remember what I paid now but all prices are on their site. :)
 
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My way is fairly simple, I have a small metal name plate on a fence panel, I shoot it at an angle and then depending whether the lens is focusing more to the left or right I alter it in camera. I have tried lots of other ways but this seems the easiest and gives me decent results when using the lens out and about.

I suppose it's just a variation of the battery focusing option really. I also use the dock with these options.

1. Make sure you have the latest firmware
2. Customize the "AF Speed Setting" to "Fast Priority AF"
3. Customize the "OS Setting" to "Moderate View Mode"
 
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Cheers mike i need to get the gear out and sort it all so may do it all in the next week or so
My way is fairly simple, I have a small metal name plate on a fence panel, I shoot it at an angle and then depending whether the lens is focusing more to the left or right I alter it in camera. I have tried lots of other ways but this seems the easiest and gives me decent results when using the lens out and about.

I suppose it's just a variation of the battery focusing option really. I also use the dock with these options.

1. Make sure you have the latest firmware
2. Customize the "AF Speed Setting" to "Fast Priority AF"
3. Customize the "OS Setting" to "Moderate View Mode"
 
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Ritchie
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Noisy Seagull by Ritchie Arrowsmith, on Flickr
Just got another Sport after selling my Nikon 500mm and 600mm vr primes. This was the first photo taken with it on my D850 with a kenko 1.4 pro tc. These lenses are great value for money i certainly wont be parting with this one. I want to spend some time setting it up on the doc and was wondering if anyone knows how the sigma af adjustment values compare to the Nikon af values. Im thinking of setting it up with focal pro in camera at all tuneable lengths them converting the Nikon in body values across to the sigma values in the lens. Im sure that I read somewhere it was not 1 for 1 and whilst I can spend the time figuring it out Id rather take the short cut if someone else has already done so.
 
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Steve
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First thing I've noticed after taking it out of the box was weight. It is a HEAVY lens. Most likely due to amount of glass inside and build quality. In terms of build quality, it's one of the best lens I've ever had! Even hood is different and more like this from Canon L lenses. I got the USB dock with the lens and I think it's a great tool. You can customise the lens to suit your shooting style and update the firmware. I'm about to calibrate the focusing as I've noticed that it's front focussing on 300mm and 400mm. 600mm is spot on. I was trying to compare it to Tamron but didn't manage due to bad weather. You need a good light and low ISO or 1DX to see the best results. I've got few shots of birds taken on a cloudy day, so nothing special. I'm off next week, so I'll try to test it properly.
I agree with you about the weight, I didn't get the Sport Lens I got the Sigma 150-600 mm f/5-6.3 DG OS HSM Contemporary. I use mine mainly at air displays on my 5D mk4 and with the 2 together and the battery pack I need to have it mounted on a tripod, saying that I find the focusing fast and crisp and like you I use the USB dock for setting up and updating the lens.
 
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