Silverstone MotoGP what have i done wrong

formula400

formula400

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lewis
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right just been through my shot and a lot are like this, its seems ive missed the focus point, i used a fast shutter speed to help freeze them and was hoping to get more keepers this way. but all the shots i got from Luffield are like this.

i rented the canon 400mm 5.6L, is it my technique or have i used the wrong setting for my 5DM3.

i used case 4- for subjects that accelerate or decelerate quickly
al serveo

ive just cropped these and done nothing else


what do i need to do to get some bettter shots tomorrow???



2S5A5351 by lewis wilson, on Flickr



2S5A5356 by lewis wilson, on Flickr
 
Set your camera up for centre focus point then point it at the bike :D
 
Hang on dont understand the problem here. They're both in focus no problem there its just that the shutter speed is way too high. There's no movement what so ever so try reducing the shutter speed. But as for not being in focus they're pin sharp!

MAT
 
really, they look soft, hmmm i don't know how to explain, is it to do with me not sharpening them up???? they just look rough, is it because they have been cropped big time???
 
I use this combo and agree these look soft compared to what I have had... Try adjusting the modes to fully responsive, use expanded focus with spot off. I got sharp shots of f1 cars In the turns where bikes would be slower. It's possible that you may need to add some MA but more likely settings/technique.

Possibly try a slower corner, these look like woodcote where they will be pretty on it with a lot of movement from bike and rider. If you aren't using a monopod try that as well. The Crop may well play a part - try and get as close as you can
 
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My tip would be to try and get down level with the bikes and then see your results and take it from there,good luck (y)
Clive.
 
i had a better day saturday but still not happy,


here is one of the many bad ones.



i got loads like this, i rented a canon 400mm 5.6L to go on my 5DM3 so its not that, i i played around with the case settings it i think it helped, i used case 3 so it would ignore the fence and stay locked onto the rider, well that was the plan, i think ill have a look at a mono pod and my panning technic
 
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formula400 said:
i had a better day saturday but still not happy,


here is one of the many bad ones.



i used case 3 so it would ignore the fence and stay locked onto the rider,
Click to expand...

So your panning 'across' a fence - I would say that's your problem, if your holding the lens up to the fence and have the centre of it lined up with a gap then you will be okay but panning across it you will inevitably get blur from the wire.

As for the first 2 - looked at the larger versions and they look pretty good apart from waaaaaay too fast a shutter speed as already mentioned.

.DAVID.
 
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thank you david, sort of what i wanted to hear, how would i get rid of the blur, use a lens that has a larger aperture ???

also what affect will using a shutter speed that is two quick???
 
Hi Lewis not sure what PP you've done but I reset black point in levels & sharpened . Shooting through fences is always a pain ,but try to keep the aperture as wide as possible with either Cpl or nd's , as for panning superbikes or GP's I shoot 1/320 or 1/400 as there is a lot of movement in bike & rider at the high speed these guys travel .
HTH :)
 
maska said:
as for panning superbikes or GP's I shoot 1/320 or 1/400 as there is a lot of movement in bike & rider at the high speed these guys travel .
HTH :)
[/URL]
Click to expand...



that picture above was straight out of the camera with no PP, your edited one is good, and here is mine, but it still looks soft, but i know this is down to me and my skill level.



Cal Crutchlow by lewis wilson, on Flickr

i still dont understand what using a shutter speed that is two high does.
 
formula400 said:
i still dont understand what using a shutter speed that is two high does.
Click to expand...

A high shutter not only freezes the action but also freezes the fence within the image rather than blurring it across the whole image if that makes sense.
Oh and nice edit too
 
maska said:
A high shutter not only freezes the action but also freezes the fence within the image rather than blurring it across the whole image if that makes sense.
Oh and nice edit too
Click to expand...



you could of told me that thurday night :bang:

i was trying to use a high speed to freeze the bike. but did not even thing it would try and freeze the fence.

so if i do that all i need to worry about is my panning???

cheers
 
Generally ,shooting 1/400 or below will blur the fence if panning but it can still be hit & miss lol
 
formula400 said:
i had a better day saturday but still not happy,


here is one of the many bad ones.



i got loads like this, i rented a canon 400mm 5.6L to go on my 5DM3 so its not that, i i played around with the case settings it i think it helped, i used case 3 so it would ignore the fence and stay locked onto the rider, well that was the plan, i think ill have a look at a mono pod and my panning technic
Click to expand...
Lewis, I looked at your exif on flickr, this one and may others are @ f/7.0 or higher, for cage work I always shoot wide open, with your lens would be f/5.6 which I'm sure would have blurred more of the fence, your ISO was quite high as well hence high shutter speed.

Most of the images are excellent, 1 and 2 here look ok to me(y)

BTW what is "case 3"?

Cheers
 
Hi, i was at Knockhill for the British Touring cars last week, it was my first time shooting motorsports. I had a good play around with shutter speeds throughout the day and found i got the best results between 1/250 and 1/400. Im not sure but i think 1/250 might be a bit slow due to the bikes traveling a lot faster? Just have a play around and see what gives you the best results :) The photo below was taken at 1/250, f/5.6 & ISO 100.


CSC_0395 by Kris_Heslop, on Flickr
 
While purists will often demand a 1/10 shutter speed, my default pan setting is 1/400 - you get a little blur and don't have to have superhuman steadily abilities. Then later in the race, once you have gotten some good pictures (don't be afraid to look at the screen and make sure the car/bike is sharp) try some lower settings just for experimentation.

My other trick is to hold the shutter down during a pan and get four or five shots each time - usually the middle ones are sharpest I find.
 
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Tim R-T-C said:
While purists will often demand a 1/10 shutter speed, my default pan setting is 1/400 - you get a little blur and don't have to have superhuman steadily abilities.
Click to expand...

It's easy to fall into the trap of getting slower and slower, particularly when you're starting out. I tend to use a default of 1/320 - if I'm in the zone I might step it down to 1/250. For fast straights I might need to up it to 1/500.
 
Shutter speed is all about the subject, the composition and the distance...

There's no one magical figure, its about knowing where the ballpark is and playing around to get the results.

Cars are different to bikes too...
 
Shooting through fencing can be a problem depending on light, thickness of mesh, distance from fence etc. Generally getting as close to the fence as possible and using a wide aperture will help. As you are in SW20 have you tried Brands Hatch ? GP circuit in particular has lots of places with only waist high fencing but there are also places on the Indy circuit that are ok too.
I have used your combination of 5D3 with 400mm 5.6, case 4 and all kinds of shutter speeds. Lots of examples on Flickr with exif intact if you want a look.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/nb100/
 
desantnik said:
Shutter speed is all about the subject, the composition and the distance...

There's no one magical figure, its about knowing where the ballpark is and playing around to get the results.

Cars are different to bikes too...
Click to expand...

:plus1:

he is dead right, it also will depend on you choice of lens aswell.I use a 500mm F4 prime & if I tried panning at anything less than 500th of a second shutter speed I'd be binning 99% of my shots but with a 70-200 at lets say 250th then I'd be keeping 99%.
 
looks like i need to get back to brands or somewhere and have a play.


cheers people.

nick "case 3" is one of the auto focus setting the camera has, depending on what your trying to capture.
 
formula400 said:
looks like i need to get back to brands or somewhere and have a play.


cheers people.

nick "case 3" is one of the auto focus setting the camera has, depending on what your trying to capture.
Click to expand...

Didn't have that on my 1D MKIII, looks complicated? I just used default settings, single point, centre point AF which in theory should be fasted and snappiest.

Thanks for uploading your images of Jonathan on your flickr, (y)
 
GPmotophoto said:
:plus1:

he is dead right, it also will depend on you choice of lens aswell.I use a 500mm F4 prime & if I tried panning at anything less than 500th of a second shutter speed I'd be binning 99% of my shots but with a 70-200 at lets say 250th then I'd be keeping 99%.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I can imagine how it would be more difficult with a 500mm prime!
 
Not so much for sharpness and ease of control.... its about how slow you need to get background blur...
 
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