Yes, take me along and we can work it out together as snowy mountains rather appeal![]()
Me 3![]()
< think seriously about this Tom - you wouldn't have to carry all that heavy gear > Interesting idea that - sure something can be worked out.For snow shots always over exposure the TTL reading by AT least 1 to 2 stops so the Snow is white and not an 'orrid under-exposed grey.
Mountain shots can be similar, I'd bracket and keep the best exposed images.
It depends on where the AF point is what exposure you'll get. Unless its all snow, you will get different exposure values based on the light at the point of focus. You could use spot metering on the 1D Mk3, get a reading from the snow and dial in +1 to +2 exposure compensation, then recompose.
Must admit I always take the easy option, shoot in RAW so I don't have to worry about the WB and take 3 bracketed exposures - then pick the one that looks best when back on the PC, lazy I know
Simon
WB off the snow too!
Blue snow is nearly as un-appealing as yellow!
Thanks for that Simon, what increment do find best to use?
Tom
I normally have +0.7EV dialled in permanently as my meter "protects highlight", a bit too much for my liking... bracketing I normally go with 0.7 too
simon
Blue snow is nearly as un-appealing as yellow!
Must admit I always take the easy option, shoot in RAW so I don't have to worry about the WB and take 3 bracketed exposures - then pick the one that looks best when back on the PC, lazy I know
Simon
That's not really lazy at all. But you do need to have a good idea of what to use as your basic exposure. With a very snowy subject 1.5 to 2 stops over-exposure is about right.