Sony Alpha 7 III - What type of filter? What do you recommend?

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Dolphin Photo

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DolphinPhoto
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Good afternoon,

I'm thinking about using filters on my camera and I'd like your opinion on the subject.
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ORIGINAL PHOTOS WITHOUT EDITING
SonyAlpha7iii / lens: Sony FE 2.8 70-200 77mm



In this type of photography, photography is carried out in a covered area with some windows allowing light to enter.

On the left side, at certain times it reflects the blue of the water on people. I wanted to know if, without editing, a filter would help...

And on the right side just the reflection on the floor.

what do you recommend?




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ORIGINAL PHOTOS WITHOUT EDITING
SonyAlpha7iii / lens: Sony FE 4.5 - 5.6 100-400
In this type of photography it is an open area and I think a UV filter would look great, what do you think and what do you recommend?
 
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UV filter will do absolutely zero to the image, a polariser will cut some glare and reflections off the water As long as it’s used correctly.
 
I'm going to research more about the Polorizer and ND filters to help with the area where the first photos were taken.

Now for other outdoors, maybe a filter, even just to protect the lens as it can be damaged by splashes of water, sand and wind...
 
An ND filter will not help - they should only reduce the light level entering the lens, as though the scene was more dimly lit. A polariser may help, but requires careful use and readjustment for every change of scene. It is not 'fit and forget ' plus you also lose a couple of stops of light.

In situations where things are moving quickly it is better to get the shot and then manage shortcomings in lighting than to fiddle getting it right in camera and miss the shot. Even in the days of film, photos required careful development and control, and that hasn't changed but it is as lot easier.

And welcome to the forum. :)
 
UV filter... Some people like to use these to potentially protect the front of the lens and they can even add a degree of sealing but for you use in the pictures above and as has been said... They wont affect the picture.

Just a thought on filter sizes. I think it's an idea to buy a filter to fit the widest thread lens you have and to use step up rings for any other smaller thread lenses you want to use it on.

PS.
I think you can get a CPL cheaper than that Sigma. Maybe have a look at a K&F Concept?
 
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My personal view is that at best you won't see any difference with or without the UV filter, but it's your money.
 
As others have already mentioned, a UV filter would not make any positive difference to the images (and could cause a loss in image quality if it was a cheap filter, or in specific lighting situations) - their only real use these days is if you are shooting in a 'hostile' environment (lots of dust, sand, salt spray, etc in the air) where you need to repeatedly wipe the front clear of water / mud / etc. when you avoid the risk of damage to the coatings on the front element from small particulates acting as an abrasive when you wipe the lens.

A CPL could help reduce reflections, but to use one you need to be able to adjust the CPL to once it's fitted - which usually means not using a lens hood, and a hood may well be preventing glare if you're shooting into the light, and can also block water from splashes hitting the front element.
 
Any filter has the potential to protect the lens from damage, but there are downsides
1. 2 extra surfaces that can degrade image quality
2. Increased likelihood of flare
3. Filters are of course further forward than the front element of the lens, making the lenshood less effective
A polariser (which is a screen and not a filter) when used correctly in the right conditions, is the only addition worth having, in my opinion. Various filters had their uses back in the days of film, but everything that they do can be done much better, and more easily, in post processing.

Filters are an anachronism.
 
Garry Edwards said:
Filters are an anachronism.
Click to expand...
I half get your point, taking multiple exposures and exposure blending will always give better results than using graduated ND's, which arguably are destructive. However, you can't replicate the glare reduction that a polariser will give you and you can't replicate the results a 10 stop ND would give you when shooting water. I've yet to see any in camera long exposure processing that looks good.
 
Santafe2000 said:
I half get your point, taking multiple exposures and exposure blending will always give better results than using graduated ND's, which arguably are destructive. However, you can't replicate the glare reduction that a polariser will give you and you can't replicate the results a 10 stop ND would give you when shooting water. I've yet to see any in camera long exposure processing that looks good.
Click to expand...
Fair point, a 10-stop ND filter is necessary for some types of photography, and even I have a polariser - but, as I pointed out, a polariser is not a filter.
 
You can use either term.

They screen light moving in a certain direction.

Therefore they also filter out light moving in that certain direction.

Both terms are acceptable.

A partial block is another word that can be used.
 
There are YouTube videos which show how to blend multiple exposures to replicate a single long exposure. A 10 stop filter isn't necessary now, although it does make long exposure work easier - not that this is relevant to the OPs enquiry.
 
Faldrax said:
As others have already mentioned, a UV filter would not make any positive difference to the images (and could cause a loss in image quality if it was a cheap filter, or in specific lighting situations) - their only real use these days is if you are shooting in a 'hostile' environment (lots of dust, sand, salt spray, etc in the air) where you need to repeatedly wipe the front clear of water / mud / etc. when you avoid the risk of damage to the coatings on the front element from small particulates acting as an abrasive when you wipe the lens.

A CPL could help reduce reflections, but to use one you need to be able to adjust the CPL to once it's fitted - which usually means not using a lens hood, and a hood may well be preventing glare if you're shooting into the light, and can also block water from splashes hitting the front element.
Click to expand...

He offers a discount so it's almost half the price of a CPL, the first one I mentioned.. thanks, I think I'll try it
 
ancient_mariner said:
There are YouTube videos which show how to blend multiple exposures to replicate a single long exposure. A 10 stop filter isn't necessary now, although it does make long exposure work easier - not that this is relevant to the OPs enquiry.
Click to expand...
I've tried stacking images this way to achieve the same look, and yes, it's kind of ok, but never quite manages to achieve the same effect.
 
Santafe2000 said:
So why are they sold as polarising filters as opposed to polarising screens?
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Because language - and the way that we use it - changes over time.
Some people also call the diopter lenses that can be added to a lens to allow closer focussing filters too, but they should be called supplementary lenses, and polarisers should be called polarising screens
Santafe2000 said:
I've tried stacking images this way to achieve the same look, and yes, it's kind of ok, but never quite manages to achieve the same effect.
Click to expand...
Stacking filters just exaggerates and multiplies the faults
 
Garry Edwards said:
Because language - and the way that we use it - changes over time.
Some people also call the diopter lenses that can be added to a lens to allow closer focussing filters too, but they should be called supplementary lenses, and polarisers should be called polarising screens

Stacking filters just exaggerates and multiplies the faults
Click to expand...

We were talking of stacking images Gary, not filters.
 
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