Suggestions please on what went wrong.

Pete Gl

Pete Gl

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Errr Pete?
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From a night shoot in Manchester a couple of weeks ago, these are a couple of examples of some pretty sharp and some pretty out of focus shots, both taken within a couple of minutes of each other, but you can see how out of focus No 2 is.

Both taken with my Canon 50D and 24-105 Zoom,and on a very steady Manfrotto ProB055 with a 468 ball head, with a remote shutter release.

1.

http://i484.photobucket.com/albums/rr210/Pete_glynn/Forum Posts/lr1330-1281.jpg

ISO 200
F8
13 Sec
105mm

2.

http://i484.photobucket.com/albums/rr210/Pete_glynn/Forum Posts/lr1330-1280.jpg


Staff Edit : Images changed to clickable links. Pictures must not exceed current forum limits as per the rules.
Please feel free to replace this with a fresh/resized image and remove this text :)

ISO 200
F8
10 Sec
105mm

I've really been racking my brain at what could have gone wrong with the poor shots. The only thing that comes to mind is it's possible I didn't switch off the IS on the lens, but how important is that?

Any suggestions gratefully received.

Thanks

Pete
 
No 2 does not appear OOF but suffering from camera shake.
 
As far as i have always been told is to switch IS off when using a tripod.:thumbs:
 
In my view the linked photo 2 (above) shows motion blur not a subject out of focus.
Bit late - sorry.

Matt
 
I think the camera has been moved by a knock perhaps, if you look at the vertical lines you can see the movement .
 
OK, thanks everybody for replying, looks like the general thoughts are camera shake. Guess I'll just have to be more careful in future.

Pete
 
Use self-timer.
 
Use the self timer on the camera to trigger the shutter when it's on the tripod rather that doing it manually because you'll shake the camera right at the start, or use a trigger of some sort like a wireless remote.
 
If you look at the railings top left you clearly see that there is a double image of them, proving that the camera has moved slightly during the shot. It isn't vibration or it would be a general blur, it has been jerked from one position to another. Did you use the self-timer or a cable release? Just pushing the shutter button can wobble it. Mirror lock-up is useful, too.
 
It's not camera shake so much as tripod kick. There are two clearly separate images - the camera has been jolted into a different position part way through the exposure.
 
KayJay said:
Use the self timer on the camera to trigger the shutter when it's on the tripod rather that doing it manually because you'll shake the camera right at the start, or use a trigger of some sort like a wireless remote.
Click to expand...

The OP states in the 1st post that a remote release was used
 
Looks like something had moved by any chance was the remote shutter relase a cable one?
 
Fatboyjarv said:
Looks like something had moved by any chance was the remote shutter relase a cable one?
Click to expand...

Clunk, ching ching ching!! (The sound of a penny dropping).

I think you're onto something Tony, because I was working with 10/13 seconds exposures it's quite probable I pressed the button on the CABLED shutter release, then let it go to dangle from the side of the camera.

Something to be aware of in the future, experiments in order too!

Thanks again Tony

Pete
 
Pete Gl said:
Clunk, ching ching ching!! (The sound of a penny dropping).

I think you're onto something Tony, because I was working with 10/13 seconds exposures it's quite probable I pressed the button on the CABLED shutter release, then let it go to dangle from the side of the camera.

Something to be aware of in the future, experiments in order too!

Thanks again Tony

Pete
Click to expand...

While you're at it, try setting white balance to tungsten to get rid of the orange. Custom white balance would be best but getting a good reference target might be difficult in that situation, and sometimes a bit of warmness can look more natural. In which case maybe manual balance at around 4000K?
 
Thanks for the suggestions Richard, I shot originally in RAW giving me the option to fix white balance in PP. The examples I shown above were quick JPEG conversions to seek help with my OOF issue. But I fully endorse that if you can get white balance settings correct in the the first place it will give you even more leeway in PP.

Thanks again Richard

Pete
 
Get yourself a remote release,they are brill:):thumbs:
 
You're not going to be able to do much about the wind blowing the trees (evident in the first 1) though!
 
jockwav said:
As far as i have always been told is to switch IS off when using a tripod.:thumbs:
Click to expand...

What is the reason for this..wont it secure an image shake free shot..?
 
FYI I recently purchased a Taron 28-300mm lens with IS. I normally only ever use a tripod but was extremely disappointed with my first days test shots as they were all not as sharp as I would have expected. After some exprienting I discovered the IS was on & when on a tripod hunted slightly. Switched the IS off nice crip sharp images.. The Canon lens switch off when on a tripod hence no problems before.
 
GeForce Junky said:
Only if the camera is moving. If the camera is stationary IS can actually cause movement as it trys to detect any movemnt.
Click to expand...

that is interesting...thanks...that technology seems to have a mind of its own
it has its place
 
mrcrow said:
What is the reason for this..wont it secure an image shake free shot..?
Click to expand...

I think the theory is that when the camera is on a tripod it is stationary so IS is unnecessary. Turning it off stops it twitching and also saves battery. They can use a bit of power and I guess on a tripod it might be on for a long time.

But personally, I think all that is tosh. When I use a very long lens on a tripod, it still moves and IS makes a big difference. I've never had any trouble with the IS getting confused or misbehaving.
 
HoppyUK said:
I think the theory is that when the camera is on a tripod it is stationary so IS is unnecessary. Turning it off stops it twitching and also saves battery. They can use a bit of power and I guess on a tripod it might be on for a long time.

But personally, I think all that is tosh. When I use a very long lens on a tripod, it still moves and IS makes a big difference. I've never had any trouble with the IS getting confused or misbehaving.
Click to expand...

Using only my Canon IS lens I would agree but I can assure you it does make a difference on the Tamron lens, I even tried my tests with "mirror up". Most likely to do with the weight of lens with the Canon lenses
 
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