Sunset photos - how?

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Jim
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Using wide angle lens and full sensor camera, which is the best metering mode for sunset photos. I assume it will be evaluate metering. Looking to take a sunset photo out over a reservoir, manual focus, with an aperture of about f8.0. Also, would I need to use in ND grad filters?
 
I would go with evaluative at f11, but I am sure someone will be along shortly to offer a different option, it really depends on the scene and what you are trying to achieve with the image, so probably worth experimenting with spot and other apertures if in doubt.
 
You may need to use a ND grad to help control the contrast (Bright sky and dark forground) - it will be scene dependant.

I am comfortable using evaluative metering, metering of the sky without the sun it, and I will be using the histogram as a guide.

#1 - For this sunrise I would have been using a 3 stop soft ND grad .
The photographer by dicktay2000, on Flickr

#2 For this one no filters were used.

Sunset at Newcastle (1) by dicktay2000, on Flickr
 
the 1st photo Rich posted above is why i am not a massive fan of grad NDs. you can clearly see the transition on the man's leg as top part of his body is a dark silhouette and below knee/calf, there are brighter shadow details.

however in terms of metering, the camera will always struggle in this kind of scene but your best bet is evaluative across the full frame. unless you want a specific subject to be exposed properly.

3 shot bracketing will almost give you complete control of the scene as most camera can do 3EV brackets so thats 6EV + DR of the camera, which will probably be 13EV. so you will stand a good chance of capturing the whole scene. then it is just matter of playing with the software for blending. Photoshop has HDR merge but its controls are limited and will result in some fantasy type photos. you can also blend it manually or choose to use third party software such as Photomatic.
 
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I usually aim for making the colours of the sunset itself the main focus (no puns intended) of shots like those above and include people and objects as silhouettes or use fill flash to light them. I usually take a matrix meter reading from the sky with the sun just out of frame a minute or so before the actual setting then check to see if I'm getting the right exposure and correct it if I think I need to (one of the few times I tend to go for manual exposure). I'll sometimes shoot a bracketed set then choose the best of the set to print once I can see the shots better on a proper screen. (Actually, I'll often print them all at 6x4 then choose the best couple to do at A4 then possibly take the best up to A3+!)
 
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