Sunwayphoto heads

Sunwayfoto are very good quality. I've not tried the newer FB range, though notice it has the drop-slot in the right place IMHO, but I preferred the DB to the low profile XB. DB44 is a very nice head.

See also Feisol CB-40D, excellent head and great value http://www.globaltechcommerce.co.uk/feisoluk/4-cb-40d-ball-head.html

This will probably be my next ball head, when I get around to it - Arca-Swiss P0, with a Sunwayfoto circular clamp on top http://www.robertwhite.co.uk/tripod...s-monoball-p0-with-1-4-3-8-threaded-disk.html Really good, very light, and I know you like upside-down heads ;) Really needs to be used with an L-bracket for verticals though.
 
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Yes, I looked at both the other heads you mention. Can't remember why I decided against the Feisol 40D but I saw the German comparison test where it came out very well.

But only 99/100 in Advanced Photographer, eh? They just don't make 'em like they used to do......

I'll do another comparison of the 40D and FB36 before pressing the confirm button, I think.

Thanks!
 
I have a faint recollection of an elliptical ball? Have checked their website, but didn't find it... maybe it was in their catalogue?

Btw. Sotiris has tested some Sunwayfoto ball heads http://www.scvphotoideas.com/
 
Jan K. said:
I have a faint recollection of an elliptical ball? Have checked their website, but didn't find it... maybe it was in their catalogue?

Btw. Sotiris has tested some Sunwayfoto ball heads http://www.scvphotoideas.com/
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SunwayFoto heads have an elliptical ball, but you would hardly know from using one, it makes only a subtle difference. Nothing like the elliptical ball in say the Arca-Swiss Z1. It's a handy trick that can make accurate adjustment easier, but the way I do that is with one of these short rail/clamps http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUNWAYFOT..._Tripods_Heads_Stablisers&hash=item3f2355a1aa Pop it in the clamp, slide back a few cms, and the camera is then in perfect balance with no torque on the head, so when you lock it down, it doesn't move.

This is a very common problem with ball heads that can shift position when you lock them, but most of the movement there is not in the head, but in the joint between the camera and QR plate, because it's leaning forward under the natural weight of the lens. Take the tension off that, and the problem goes away. Very easy and effective :thumbs:
 
Jan K. said:
I have a faint recollection of an elliptical ball? Have checked their website, but didn't find it... maybe it was in their catalogue?

Btw. Sotiris has tested some Sunwayfoto ball heads http://www.scvphotoideas.com/
Click to expand...


Thanks for that. I now gather that the FB series replaced the DB series and are lighter, smaller, stronger and better in every other way. Not mention cheaper!

Funny in a way that the UK distributor tried to persuade me that the DB series were better.....
 
HoppyUK said:
...Pop it in the clamp, slide back a few cms, and the camera is then in perfect balance with no torque on the head, so when you lock it down, it doesn't move...
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Yeah, I'm not "into" that elliptical thing either, and also use my nodal slide to balance things out! Very useful especially in macro setups! :)
 
jerry12953 said:
Richard, I don't suppose you tested any of the Sunway heads, did you?

I think I decided on the FB36 because it was seemed like a happy medium between the Fesiol 30D and the 40D.
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Yes, the DB-44 that I liked very much, and the XB-44 that got left out of the published review due to page space restrictions. I preferred the DB-44 though, that has fractionally less shift on lock-down, though still a very good head. Sunwayfoto's quality is excellent, and the DB-44 is one of the nicest heads to use if you enjoy fine engineering. Not tried the newer FB range.

In the review, the Feisol CB-40D scored highest points for its remarkable performance and also very keen price. Giottos MH 1300-621 also very good for a bargain £90. At the other end of the price scale, Arca-Swiss Z1 is probably the best ball head you can buy, though is a little heavier and over costs £300.
 
I recently bought the fb-36 and panning clamp. I can wholeheartedly recommend it. The value for money is superb. They are really well made. I used a cloth and applied some silicone spray lube to the ball which made it even smoother to operate
 
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Mine has just arrived. Now I need to get used to it after my magicball. (No sniggering at the back, please, Hopkins:naughty:).

First impressions, its very lightweight in comparison but - with the plates as well - quite complicated. All those little screws. I'll need to carry a whole range of allen keys around with me in case something comes loose!
 
DavidBrill said:
I recently bought the fb-36 and panning clamp. I can wholeheartedly recommend it. The value for money is superb. They are really well made. I used a cloth and applied some silicone spray lube to the ball which made it even smoother to operate
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Not sure about silicon spray, never seen it recommended and a build-up might cause the ball to stick/jerk a bit. A quality ball head should work best very clean and dry. I sometimes use a tiny drop of WD40 for very occasional cleaning, applied to a cloth first, then wiped over the ball, then wiped off with a clean cloth.

jerry12953 said:
Mine has just arrived. Now I need to get used to it after my magicball. (No sniggering at the back, please, Hopkins:naughty:).

First impressions, its very lightweight in comparison but - with the plates as well - quite complicated. All those little screws. I'll need to carry a whole range of allen keys around with me in case something comes loose!
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Complicated? I'm sure you'll rise to the challenge Jerry LOL. Be interested to know how you get on :thumbs:

For the uninitiated, this is a Novoflex MagicBall http://www.speedgraphic.co.uk/ball__socket/novoflex_mini_magicball/8449_p.html They have a small but distinguished following.
 
markmullen said:
I love Novoflex stuff, very well made in my experience and the inventor is a top chap.
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To be honest I don't think I'd recommend the mini version that Hoppy linked to, but the standard Magicball is a brilliant design and very simple to use but it does have one major weakness.

Which is that once you have screwed the camera on to the head it is only two small rubber pads which stop your camera from rotating. These are quite grippy but seem to go hard over a period of time and lose their grip. So you tighten it up further and eventually the pads get damaged and become useless. It did take years for this to happen, and Speedgraphic sent replacement pads.

But as I started to use a longer/ heavier lens the tendency for the camera swing around on the axis of the retaining screw did increase and become more of a nuisance. I just enquired about using an L-plate on here and before long I was actually buying one.....you know how it is.

Then there was the new head and the plate for the long lens....... we shall see how it works out. I am slightly concerned about all the little screws on the head and the plates and how they could easily come loose hence the little bag of allen keys I've now stuffed in my bag.

If you're interested in trying out the Magicball, you're welcome to have it on a short loan, Mark.
 
Couldn't you have just bolted an Arca-Swiss clamp to your MagicBall? Bit of glue perhaps to secure it? Instant conversion. For light weight, maybe this one http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FotoPanda..._Tripods_Heads_Stablisers&hash=item3f2a12dfcd

Not sure what all these screws are that you're concerned about. The stop-studs etc are all Loctited, not going anywhere!
dinners said:
:plus1:
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Cheapest way of doing that I've seen recently (as in post #7) is this mini-rail/clamp, though I've not tried this particular one. Makes things a lot easier http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FotoPanda..._Tripods_Heads_Stablisers&hash=item3a85a0d656 :thumbs:
 
"Not sure what all these screws are that you're concerned about. The stop-studs etc are all Loctited, not going anywhere!"

Two on the L-plate which attaches it to the body; one on the lens plate (+2 more which don't seem to do anything.....); and one that attaches the clamp to the head, which was loose when it arrived. I thought it was faulty..... . Altogether 4 allen keys required for these........
 
jerry12953 said:
"Not sure what all these screws are that you're concerned about. The stop-studs etc are all Loctited, not going anywhere!"

Two on the L-plate which attaches it to the body; one on the lens plate (+2 more which don't seem to do anything.....); and one that attaches the clamp to the head, which was loose when it arrived. I thought it was faulty..... . Altogether 4 allen keys required for these........
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I'm not quite following that Jerry, but I've never had even a hint of anything undoing itself when it shouldn't. If you're concerned, a spot of Loctite on anything permanent will sort it.
 
The screw that attaches the clamp to the stem of the ball was loose when I first started using it - so much so that I thought it was faulty. Of those that I mentioned it would be the only one I would consider glueing. All the others (e.g. those that attach the L-plate to the camera) need to be removed as required. You wouldn't glue these, would you?

Take this is the beginning of the feedback!:wave:

Although in fact it's feedback on a Magicball, really. A Magicball is so beautifully simple - elegant must be the word - and has no screws that could possibly come loose.

Hope I'm making sense........
 
HoppyUK said:
Not sure about silicon spray, never seen it recommended and a build-up might cause the ball to stick/jerk a bit. A quality ball head should work best very clean and dry. I sometimes use a tiny drop of WD40 for very occasional cleaning, applied to a cloth first, then wiped over the ball, then wiped off with a clean cloth.



Complicated? I'm sure you'll rise to the challenge Jerry LOL. Be interested to know how you get on (y)

For the uninitiated, this is a Novoflex MagicBall http://www.speedgraphic.co.uk/ball__socket/novoflex_mini_magicball/8449_p.html They have a small but distinguished following.
Click to expand...

Have you ever used Silicone lube? WD40 is more likely to cause problems
 
jerry12953 said:
The screw that attaches the clamp to the stem of the ball was loose when I first started using it - so much so that I thought it was faulty. Of those that I mentioned it would be the only one I would consider glueing. All the others (e.g. those that attach the L-plate to the camera) need to be removed as required. You wouldn't glue these, would you?

Take this is the beginning of the feedback!:wave:

Although in fact it's feedback on a Magicball, really. A Magicball is so beautifully simple - elegant must be the word - and has no screws that could possibly come loose.

Hope I'm making sense........
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LOL Jerry, the only screw that comes loose on the MagicBall is the one that holds the camera! Which is why you're changing, isn't it? Not knocking it though, I do like elegantly simple designs like that.

I'm wondering if the clamp bolt is deliberately left loose, so you can change it? Though this is usually a special order kind of thing and they should certainly make it clear. There should be a slot underneath to stop it rotating. But anyone that has tried to get a Loctited clamp off a ball head will know why that's desirable - needs local heat, brute force and a small prayer.

Which L-bracket do you have? How come you've got two screws attaching the L-bracket to the camera :thinking: Not just one locating in the tripod bush? No I wouldn't Loctite that one! Mine is done up pretty tight and though I check it now and then, it's never come loose. L-bracket never comes off the camera.

Do you have a nodal rail Jerry? Really recommend trying that, just for balancing the camera. Makes accurate working so much easier, though more so with close-ups and product shots etc rather than landscapes.
 
DavidBrill said:
Have you ever used Silicone lube? WD40 is more likely to cause problems
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No, not on the ball. Use it very sparingly on rails and legs etc.

There are conflicting views on what's best for ball heads, including WD40, but by the time it's all polished off there's only a microscopic film left and it works smooth as you like.
 
Different grades of Loctite, I always used the semi-permanent Blue one on bike parts such as brake arm bolts that could need removing, but needed to be secure.
 
HoppyUK said:
LOL Jerry, the only screw that comes loose on the MagicBall is the one that holds the camera! Which is why you're changing, isn't it? Not knocking it though, I do like elegantly simple designs like that.

I'm wondering if the clamp bolt is deliberately left loose, so you can change it? Though this is usually a special order kind of thing and they should certainly make it clear. There should be a slot underneath to stop it rotating. But anyone that has tried to get a Loctited clamp off a ball head will know why that's desirable - needs local heat, brute force and a small prayer.

Which L-bracket do you have? How come you've got two screws attaching the L-bracket to the camera :thinking: Not just one locating in the tripod bush? No I wouldn't Loctite that one! Mine is done up pretty tight and though I check it now and then, it's never come loose. L-bracket never comes off the camera.

Do you have a nodal rail Jerry? Really recommend trying that, just for balancing the camera. Makes accurate working so much easier, though more so with close-ups and product shots etc rather than landscapes.
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Richard,

I've only just seen this post!

I'm seriously thinking of going back to the Magicball, despite the weakness you have identified above.. Once used, never forgotten!

The FB 36 has developed a fault - there is movement between the knurled ring at the base and the main body of the head. You just can't tighten up the knob controlling the rotation enough to stop it. Makes the damn thing useless. I'm not a happy bunny.

Back to the L-plate. Mine is a Kirk and has a screw in the tripod mount at the bottom, and one in the strap bracket at the lhs. Two separate Allen keys required. To be fair neither has come loose so far. The third Allen key is for the Arca-type plate on my 100-400 L zoom foot. The fourth is for the ball/clamp joint as discussed above. Magicball? None required!
 
jerry12953 said:
...The FB 36 has developed a fault - there is movement between the knurled ring at the base and the main body of the head. You just can't tighten up the knob controlling the rotation enough to stop it...
Click to expand...
What does SunwayPhoto say about this?

It's not simply the base screw gone loose?
 
jerry12953 said:
Richard,

I've only just seen this post!

I'm seriously thinking of going back to the Magicball, despite the weakness you have identified above.. Once used, never forgotten!

The FB 36 has developed a fault - there is movement between the knurled ring at the base and the main body of the head. You just can't tighten up the knob controlling the rotation enough to stop it. Makes the damn thing useless. I'm not a happy bunny.

Back to the L-plate. Mine is a Kirk and has a screw in the tripod mount at the bottom, and one in the strap bracket at the lhs. Two separate Allen keys required. To be fair neither has come loose so far. The third Allen key is for the Arca-type plate on my 100-400 L zoom foot. The fourth is for the ball/clamp joint as discussed above. Magicball? None required!
Click to expand...

That's not good news Jerry. It must surely be something simple that's come loose, but that's not the point. Did you buy from CGUK? Drop an email to Chris Harrison and I'm sure he'll sort you out.

If going back to the Magicball, and if you've taken to the A-S type QR system and L-bracket, you could simply bolt an A-S clamp to the top to convert it. Do it up tight! I've not tried this one but am drawn to it because it's so light, and cheap http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FotoPanda..._Tripods_Heads_Stablisers&hash=item3f2a12dfcd You'll also need one of those tiny 1/4-to-3/8th bushes to convert.
 
My friend Sotiris suggest to have a look under the alu sticker in the bottom and check the four screws hidden there under.

He has just "repaired" a loose base by simply tightening these.


He also asks, if you've banged the ball head against anything...
mean.gif
 
Jan K. said:
My friend Sotiris suggest to have a look under the alu sticker in the bottom and check the four screws hidden there under.

He has just "repaired" a loose base by simply tightening these.


He also asks, if you've banged the ball head against anything...
mean.gif
Click to expand...

As this head is only about a month old I'm not going to start taking it apart and tightening hidden screws! :eek:

On first use the screw attaching the clamp to the ball came loose - easily fixed if you have the Allen keys with you - and now something else has come loose. Am not impressed! Lets just say the last time I used it it was fine, now it isn't. I'm not aware of anything happening in the meantime, although it did come back from France on the train.....

HoppyUK said:
That's not good news Jerry. It must surely be something simple that's come loose, but that's not the point. Did you buy from CGUK? Drop an email to Chris Harrison and I'm sure he'll sort you out.

If going back to the Magicball, and if you've taken to the A-S type QR system and L-bracket, you could simply bolt an A-S clamp to the top to convert it. Do it up tight! I've not tried this one but am drawn to it because it's so light, and cheap http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FotoPanda..._Tripods_Heads_Stablisers&hash=item3f2a12dfcd You'll also need one of those tiny 1/4-to-3/8th bushes to convert.
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I'll be contacting Chris Harrison right away. I'm not sure what to say if he offers me another! My feelings is that this head is more suited to a lightweight travel tripod. I might prefer something with a 40 mm diameter base, which leads me in a different direction -----> Feisol. The "glue-an-arca-swiss-clamp-to-the-magicball" is also an attractive option. Must get hold of a copy of "What Adhesive" magazine.:naughty:

PS Many thanks for the suggestion re: clamps.

You really are the go-to man when it comes to "the knowledge" on tripod heads!
 
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There's a problem with glueing an arca-swiss clamp to a Magicball, I've realised.

The Magicball grips more firmly when the camera/lens axis is aligned with the head. This would be more important with a long lens, and the plate I have on the lens foot is aligned in this direction . So far so good.

The L-plate on my camera body is such that the clamp needs to be at right-angles to the Magicball's long axis. Doh!

So unless it is possible to get a clamp which aligns in two directions I'm stuck.

It looks like its back to the Sunwayphoto. Chris Harrison has agreed to send me a FB44 in exchange for the faulty FB36 (+ cash difference obviously). So I can't fault the customer service at all.
 
jerry12953 said:
There's a problem with glueing an arca-swiss clamp to a Magicball, I've realised.

The Magicball grips more firmly when the camera/lens axis is aligned with the head. This would be more important with a long lens, and the plate I have on the lens foot is aligned in this direction . So far so good.

The L-plate on my camera body is such that the clamp needs to be at right-angles to the Magicball's long axis. Doh!

So unless it is possible to get a clamp which aligns in two directions I'm stuck.

It looks like its back to the Sunwayphoto. Chris Harrison has agreed to send me a FB44 in exchange for the faulty FB36 (+ cash difference obviously). So I can't fault the customer service at all.
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LOL at that flippin Magicball :D Suggestions: turn the plate on the lens foot sideways so it's the same as the camera. Or rather better, get one of these very short nodal rails http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUNWAYFOT..._Tripods_Heads_Stablisers&hash=item3f2355a1aa and use it when the head is attached directly to the camera. Doing that turns the clamp 90 degrees so it's the same as the lens foot. And even better, by sliding the rail back two or three cms it puts the camera in perfect balance, ie not front-heavy, which makes accurate positioning easier with no droop on locking down. Highly recommend this regardless.

On the other hand, SunwayFoto FB44 is a lovely head - strong, accurate, very smooth controls. (Even better with that little nodal rail trick :thumbs:)
 
A bidirectional clamp - now we're talking!:clap: Actually it doesn't look like it does what I hoped it might.

Seriously, I'm trying to simplify matters and get back to that sense of bliss I experienced using the Magicball until I realised what a load of old tosh it was.......;)

I'm not sure I've fully understood the advantages of the nodal rail yet, but I'm going resist the temptation for the time being though, in the interests of simplification.

But thanks for the suggestions!

Next thing will be a gimbal head unless I'm careful.....:bat:
 
jerry12953 said:
A bidirectional clamp - now we're talking!:clap: Actually it doesn't look like it does what I hoped it might.

Seriously, I'm trying to simplify matters and get back to that sense of bliss I experienced using the Magicball until I realised what a load of old tosh it was.......;)

I'm not sure I've fully understood the advantages of the nodal rail yet, but I'm going resist the temptation for the time being though, in the interests of simplification.

But thanks for the suggestions!

Next thing will be a gimbal head unless I'm careful.....:bat:
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When the camera and lens are mounted normally on the tripod head, it's naturally front-heavy. Sometimes quite a lot front-heavy unless the lens is very light. So the head is always under some tension and you have to hold the camera firmly upright while locking the head. Then when you let go, the camera droops down a little. This is usually nothing to do with the head, but the tiny amount of flex in the joint between the base of the camera and the head. It's very noticeable with a gripped camera, which of course effectively has two joints with a bit of flex in both.

By fitting a short nodal rail, you can slide the camera back a little from the centre of the head, so the weight is in perfect balance. Moving it back about 3-4cms with something like a 24-105 or 24-70 lens is about right. Then when you're framing the shot, there's no tension on the head and framing doesn't move when locking down. A bit of flex doesn't matter much with wide-angle landscapes, but with longer lenses (mounted without a tripod collar), or still-life, or table-top or especially macro work, even tiny movements make a noticeable difference to critical framing.

That little Sunway rail looks sweet, though I mine is a DIY job - just a clamp bolted to a short rail. Small and neat, weighs next to nothing. Wouldn't be without it :)
 
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