Telephoto lens and Monopod

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nikonuser

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Dave
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I want to try out my new 100-300 lens with 1.4TC asap.
I know about the 1/focal length guide but what would you think is the lowest shutter speed I could obtain with the lens on a monopod.
Appreciate any help.
thanks
Dave
 
I stick with the same rule when I'm using the monopod with my 120-400. I would rather up the ISO than lose a picture because of camera shake.
 
Thanks Gordon, think I may do the same.
Dave
 
Depends a lot on technique and personal stability. I would reckon to hold down to about 1/125th at 300mm on a monopod, slower if braced against a fence, rock or similar. Practise and see what YOU can hold it at and be happy with the results.
 
Nod said:
Depends a lot on technique and personal stability. I would reckon to hold down to about 1/125th at 300mm on a monopod, slower if braced against a fence, rock or similar. Practise and see what YOU can hold it at and be happy with the results.
Click to expand...

Yup. The 1/FL rule isn't a rule, it's a rough guideline.

Here's a shot taken at 600mm at 1/30s - 20 times slower than the 'rule' would suggest. Reasonable technique, helped by IS, leaning on a door frame and plain luck made it possible.

Barn%20Owl%2020090909%20001.jpg
 
I agree with whats been said, its more about technique but using a monopod makes life a lot easier

:D
 
I cant stand monopods, for my subject (motorsports) i find if anything i get worse results as i have to pan in an arc, not straight lines. the best solution i have seen is a waist mounted monopod with a ballhead on the top. But this is used simply to take the weight of the lens, however the 100-300 F4 isnt really heavy enough to require support.
 
It's all about experimenting, it depends on your technique and the wind etc they all influence it. If your subject is static or not will obviously affect the minimum shutter speed required too.

I use the Zuiko 90-250 f2.8 (EFL 500mm) with an E3 ( and also with an EC-20 which gives an EFL of 1000mm) and I generally set the camera to manual so I can select the shutter and aperture to suit the shot I'm taking and let the camera select the ISO, at long focal length's DOF can be very thin and sometimes selecting a smaller aperture at the expense of ISO is preferable, I always select the fastest shutter speed I can get away with. A sharp but slightly noisy shot at ISO 3200 is preferable to a blurred shot at ISO 800, one can be recovered the other can't.

This was at 500mm (1000mm EFL) but the DOF is too shallow, I should have increased the ISO and decreased the aperture

-1305097.jpg


Paul
 
I find a mononpod can save you about 1 stop with good technique. I use one all the time for my dragonfly shots with a 180mm macro lens.
 
dunganick said:
I cant stand monopods, for my subject (motorsports) i find if anything i get worse results as i have to pan in an arc, not straight lines. the best solution i have seen is a waist mounted monopod with a ballhead on the top. But this is used simply to take the weight of the lens, however the 100-300 F4 isnt really heavy enough to require support.
Click to expand...

I agree, I wouldn't use it for motorsports. I also have one that is supported from a neck strap and that does help with the weight of the lens.
 
I use one a lot with my 70-300 (on my crop sensor). I find it invaluable in the crappy light we get in the winter here... I have got decent shots at 1/40th at 300mm (effective 480) with a combination of the IS and a monopod.
 
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