The 7D and Motorsport??.....

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Dave
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...in particular Formula 1. Did anyone get the 7D when it was released and head to a Grand Prix Oct\Nov last year??? Im a bit unsure of the settings (AF in particular) to use when I go to Bahrain.

Any info appreciated :thumbs:
 
Any DSLR with the right lens will be fine for F1. As for settings, I use shutter priority when shooting motorsport, and sometimes full manual. It depends on the shot you want though... For panning, between 1/80 and 1/160 depending on light levels and to 'freeze' the action as fast as the light will allow.

Use Servo AF for focusing which will focus as you track and as the subject moves. The 7D should be very good for this!

Out of interest, what lens are you using?
 
Its ideal really. Best AF performance on a 1.6 crop sensor.

but don't expect to get amazing shots at Silverstone from spectator side. I've only seen a few examples that really impress.
 
As for settings, I use shutter priority when shooting motorsport, and sometimes full manual. It depends on the shot you want though... For panning, between 1/80 and 1/160 depending on light levels and to 'freeze' the action as fast as the light will allow.

Use Servo AF for focusing which will focus as you track and as the subject moves. The 7D should be very good for this!

1/80 - 1/160 sec would have to be a slow corner, you do realise how fast these cars will go. Personally wouldn't recommend those shutter speeds especially for panning......

Ok this will depend on the light conditions and which part of the track your able to photograph, it you don't have a media pass, you'll have to contend with safety barriers and fences, so a long zoom is required, but for panning or standard shot, start with the rule of thumb, 300mm lens = 1/320 sec * 1.6 for the crop factor, so say 1/400 sec and that will give you a reasonable shutter speed to start with, once you have mastered and are please with the results, slow the shutter speed down, but remember this will increase the chances of soft or blurred images.

I've see a large number of togs who think they can get decent shots at 1/80 sec and personally most of those imaged would have been deleted on my camera. It takes a lot of practice and a very smooth panning technique to get constantly sharp (printable A3 / A2) shots at shutter speeds of 1/160 sec or lower, especially for bikes and F1 cars.

OJ right it saying shutter priority for some shots, but say you at the top of a long straight, car slowing down, personally I would use AV (aperture priority) and set a smaller aperture (f8) to get car all the car in focus or large aperture (f2.8) to create Bokeh depending on your lens.

You also need to take into account where the sun is, you want it behind you or to the side, reason, detail in the image, you don't want a lot of shadow in your images, just change you position.

Use AI Servo, continuous shooting (but don't machine gun the shot to death), take 2 or 3 image burst and remember to pick up the subject early and keep it in focus before taking your shots whether you intend to pan with the motion or capture it head on and use TV (shutter priority) or AV (aperture priority) depending on the shot.

What lens are you intending to use?
 
Guys thanks for the replies :thumbs: I will be using a Sigma DG 120-400mm APO HSM and the Canon 55-250mm IS.

I should have re-phrased the question a bit clearer :bonk: lol
I fully know the awesome AF the 7D has, but with so many options, I'm just getting myself confuddled about it all.

Was thinking about using AF Point Expansion around the centre points, with the AI Servo Tracking Sensitivity set to fast ??? Would this be a good set-up??

Unless you live abroad or flew around alot, not many peeps will have combined the 7D with F1 yet!! :)


Edit: This is for the Bahrain GP, at Turn 1 grandstand. Will see how that goes before deciding to try at Silverstone :) :)
 
Was thinking about using AF Point Expansion around the centre points, with the AI Servo Tracking Sensitivity set to fast ??? Would this be a good set-up??

I have the expansion set on my 1d, but the sensitivity maybe a bit fast if you have anything between you and you subjects, like fences, or speaker posts etc.
 
the sensitivity maybe a bit fast if you have anything between you and you subjects, like fences, or speaker posts etc.

Cracking point made :thumbs: will have to see what its like at the time. If there is no fence (seats are on par with fence so might be able to peep over) then I can crank the tracking up :)
 
I managed to pan bikes at brands at 1/90 so hoping it will be similar for f1 :) :)

At what corner?, druids easy, hawthorns, stirlings or surtees not so easy

1/100 sec pan just to finish off the day at Cadwell
IMG_9314copy1.jpg


but most of my shots for bikes are between 1/200 - 320 sec and guarantee crystal clear and sharp and still with motion blur......
 
ok you got me, druids :) lol - but was my first time at panning motorsports :)

bike02.JPG
 
If you want me to be honest, very good 1st attempt, but image is a bit soft and because of the direction of the sun, you've lost a lot of detail in the image due to the shadows.
 
If you want me to be honest, very good 1st attempt, but image is a bit soft and because of the direction of the sun, you've lost a lot of detail in the image due to the shadows.

yeah was about 1pm, sun wasnt helping me, was taken more at the exit straight part of druids rather than the actual curve, sun was making silly shadows :(

but still happy i got it :) and it was on the 450D so no fancy 7D tracking :) :)
 
Have a look at this for your view from the turn 1 grandstand at the Bahrain GP, I think you might struggle with that safety fencing, I had similar problems at Melbourne a couple of years back from the main straight stand, didn't even bother taking any images and didn't get too many around the track either due to the fencing.

http://www.bahraingp.com/en/circuits/seatviewer
 
Have a look at this for your view from the turn 1 grandstand at the Bahrain GP, I think you might struggle with that safety fencing, I had similar problems at Melbourne a couple of years back from the main straight stand, didn't even bother taking any images and didn't get too many around the track either due to the fencing.

http://www.bahraingp.com/en/circuits/seatviewer

Just how :shrug: been on that site millions of times since getting tickets :) thanks!!!


yeah might not be the best for good shots :shrug: but im def taking the camera :thumbs: lol
 
I think you might have more fun taking photos of the event rather than the cars themselves. F1 is such a big show, try for the fans, the dolly birds, flags, packed grandstands etc.

Could make for an interesting set of photos actually, and you get to be creative rather than probably just the same panning shot of 10 different cars... *yawn* assuming you even manage that once Bernie's fencing corp. have finished!
 
I think you might have more fun taking photos of the event rather than the cars themselves. F1 is such a big show, try for the fans, the dolly birds, flags, packed grandstands etc.

Could make for an interesting set of photos actually, and you get to be creative rather than probably just the same panning shot of 10 different cars... *yawn* assuming you even manage that once Bernie's fencing corp. have finished!

Great info, I tried the fun photos at Barcelona last year, as well as the cars photos. Alonso hill make for great photos :)
 
Guys thanks for the replies :thumbs: I will be using a Sigma DG 120-400mm APO HSM and the Canon 55-250mm IS.

I should have re-phrased the question a bit clearer :bonk: lol
I fully know the awesome AF the 7D has, but with so many options, I'm just getting myself confuddled about it all.

Was thinking about using AF Point Expansion around the centre points, with the AI Servo Tracking Sensitivity set to fast ??? Would this be a good set-up??

Unless you live abroad or flew around alot, not many peeps will have combined the 7D with F1 yet!! :)


Edit: This is for the Bahrain GP, at Turn 1 grandstand. Will see how that goes before deciding to try at Silverstone :) :)

Helpfull info, cheers!
 
Went to Goodwood yesterday for a play, things I learnt...

Panning cars at low speed, is b****y HARD! :( I think its actually FAR harder as I had to use a really low shutter speed to try and get some blurred motion :( It wasnt a race day, just a taster for general public. Oh well. Did have a quick play with the AF settings, but got abit lost if iam honest.

Can anyone offer any more advice?
 
Went to Goodwood yesterday for a play, things I learnt...

Panning cars at low speed, is b****y HARD! :( I think its actually FAR harder as I had to use a really low shutter speed to try and get some blurred motion :( It wasnt a race day, just a taster for general public. Oh well. Did have a quick play with the AF settings, but got abit lost if iam honest.

Can anyone offer any more advice?

http://www.talkphotography.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=434271&highlight=Panning

Have a read some very useful information. As I stated above, start off with a higher shutter speed AVservo, single focus point with focus point expansion enabled and pick up the subject early. Panning easy, well thats what the idiots tell you, I've seen very few great shots at 1/80 sec, actually its not that easy, thats why the pro avoid it, the main difficulty is achieving a smooth pan and getting your position and stance right. It also depends how fast the subject is moving towards you and whether the distance between you and the subject is fixed or it changes as the subject moves closer to you.
 
http://www.talkphotography.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=434271&highlight=Panning

Have a read some very useful information. As I stated above, start off with a higher shutter speed AVservo, single focus point with focus point expansion enabled and pick up the subject early. Panning easy, well thats what the idiots tell you, I've seen very few great shots at 1/80 sec, actually its not that easy, thats why the pro avoid it, the main difficulty is achieving a smooth pan and getting your position and stance right. It also depends how fast the subject is moving towards you and whether the distance between you and the subject is fixed or it changes as the subject moves closer to you.

Cheers, didnt know about point expansion-will use it in future. Cheers.

Quick edit, plenty more to come


8477803443_7ef7ba80c5_c.jpg
 
Just a quick crit on your image, your used too large an aperture which creates a shallow Depth of field, hence front of car in focus, rear of car out of focus. If the conditions allow, set aperture to around f7-9

IMG_4393copy2.jpg
 
pete.rush said:
Just a quick crit on your image, your used too large an aperture which creates a shallow Depth of field, hence front of car in focus, rear of car out of focus. If the conditions allow, set aperture to around f7-9

The rear of the car shows notion blur. Thats due to it moving in more than one plane, and why you can't get sharp panned photos of rally cars on forest stages.
 
The rear of the car shows notion blur. Thats due to it moving in more than one plane, and why you can't get sharp panned photos of rally cars on forest stages.

I agree and disagree, yes I understand about the more than 1 plane, but you should have been able to create more depth of field in that image than just the bumper.
 
I agree with Phil - that looks like motion blur to me, not a lack of DOF. I've seen it happen often enough on my own photos :)
 
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