The Amazing Sony A1/A7/A9/APS-C & Anything else welcome Mega Thread!

Last edited:
twist said:
Lightroom RAW Tip:

I hate the colour rendering that Adobe applies to RAW files when it imports them into LR5, basically its applying what it thinks is correct. Often making skintones etc yellow. Even worse when the image is shot under artificial light.

My camera picture setting is neutral even though I shoot RAW so replace neutral in LR with whatever preset you use to get the most accurate colours and follow these steps.....

Snap off a few pics, go to import, import an image, go to develop tab, scroll down to camera profile at the bottom, calibration drop down, change that to camera setting as I said mine is neutral.

If you like the look then hold down ALT, you'll see the reset button change to set default. Click update to current settings.

Now whatever you import will have that calibration setting. If you want to reset it just do the same but ALT click reset and change to default.
Click to expand...

I've done it slightly different, I've made presets changing the calibration to various camera styles and saved them. When I'm importing I can then set 'Apply during import' to one of these presets.
 
Alan Clogwyn said:
I've done it slightly different, I've made presets changing the calibration to various camera styles and saved them. When I'm importing I can then set 'Apply during import' to one of these presets.
Click to expand...

Yup, think i mentioned that previously to someone in this thread but forgot to add it. Very useful.
 
robj20 said:
Quick question for anyone with the A7R, what's the file size for RAW and what's the recording duration for video on the cards you have?
Need to work out what size SD cards to get. I have a 64GB but i would prefer to use multiple cards.
Click to expand...

The ones on my card at the moment vary between 35.1 and 35.4Mb. Not bad when you consider the Raw files from a Fuji S5 (12Mp) are around 22Mb a pop! With 5 raw files on the card already it reckons 2 hours HD recording remaining on a 16Gb card
 
Can anyone tell me if the camera can be used while being charged via USB? Thinking about getting an A7R exclusively for studio/tripod work with rear LCD on a lot of the time. Thanks.
 
twist said:
Dont think so. Screen just displays USB somthing or other and nothing works.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I guessed not. Gonna need a couple of spare batts on permanent charge then :( Cheers.
 
HoppyUK said:
Can anyone tell me if the camera can be used while being charged via USB? Thinking about getting an A7R exclusively for studio/tripod work with rear LCD on a lot of the time. Thanks.
Click to expand...

Charging stops when USB cable is connected and camera turned on. You can however get an AC adapter that replaces the battery.

I'm playing with tethering from lightroom right now, although it requires a paid for plugin
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Alan Clogwyn said:
Charging stops when USB cable is connected and camera turned on. You can however get an AC adapter that replaces the battery.

I'm playing with tethering from lightroom right now, although it requires a paid for plugin
Click to expand...

Brilliant! AC-PW20 for permanent power :thumbs: Third party jobbies are cheap too. Many thanks :)
 
Alan Clogwyn said:
Charging stops when USB cable is connected and camera turned on. You can however get an AC adapter that replaces the battery.

I'm playing with tethering from lightroom right now, although it requires a paid for plugin
Click to expand...

Fantastic, thanks for that.
 
Its here.

DSC00853.jpg


Setup was a breeze its nearly exactly the same as my RX100.
How do you get peaking to work in the EVF?

Definitely needs to be an option to totally switch the screen off.
 
Last edited:
Also just tested my 35mm, its a great little lens, small and weighs nothing, very sharp wide open with fast/silent AF, colours are also nice. Id highly recommend it.
 
Also charging is much faster if you dont use the supplied adapter its only 500ma. Im using the 2a usb ports on my pc.
 
robj20 said:
How do you get peaking to work in the EVF?

.
Click to expand...

C1 as default, set to whatever strength you require.

EDIT: No it's not, I put it there! Menu - Peaking level is what you're looking for, Off, low, medium and High are the options for it.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Yes i have it set to Low already. It seems it doesn't show peaking when its zoomed in for focusing.
 
robj20 said:
Yes i have it set to Low already. It seems it doesn't show peaking when its zoomed in for focusing.
Click to expand...
That appears to be a "quirk". Sometimes it shows peaking when zoomed, sometimes not. I think the zoomed in view needs v.strong contrast to show the peaking. It si a bit weird though and has been spotted on a number of forums. Try it set to high and see if it makes a difference.
 
The manual is a bit rubbish. For instance what is Zebra?
 
Last edited:
robj20 said:
That's funny. o_O

Maybe someone that doesn't mind helping can reply rather than just offering unhelpful information.
Click to expand...

Zebra patterns assist in manual iris or aperture control by displaying a striped pattern across highlights above a designated brightness level.

Common place in professional video cameras, there are two options usually - 100IRE+, and 70-90IRE.

100IRE setting is used to determined pure white (NTSC/PAL), and any zebra visible in this mode indicates an overexposure beyond pure white (0 IRE is black). This is like just like blowing out highlights, once they are gone, they are gone.

70-90IRE setting is used to determine correct exposure for facial skin tones, with properly exposed skin falling within this range. There are many schools of thought on what is correct IRE level for a particular skin tone, but there is no hard and fast rule, because other factors will influence the setting you perceive as correct (particularly under mixed lighting).

White or caucasian skin tones are generally in the 80IRE range, for properly exposed skin. This measurement is the accepted standard for broadcast and television. When lighting creatively the IRE number is more flexible, with exposure assessment being influence most often by colour temperature, and things like time of day, whether shooting indoors or out, etc.
 
Tobers said:
That appears to be a "quirk". Sometimes it shows peaking when zoomed, sometimes not. I think the zoomed in view needs v.strong contrast to show the peaking. It si a bit weird though and has been spotted on a number of forums. Try it set to high and see if it makes a difference.
Click to expand...

Peaking is shown when you zoom in but from what I can see what you see is the zoomed in portion of the whole image with the same peaking as the whole image... if you can follow my meaning... so if there are a few specks over the interesting part of the image what you see when you zoom in is the interesting part maginified with just some same specks. I think it'd possibly be better if more specks were visible when looking at the magnified view.

I have mine set to high white and when I call up the zoomed view I do see white specks.
 
I haven't tried yet but on my list of things to do is see if the areas zebra indicates really blow and can't be recovered.

Anyone tried it yet?
 
woof woof said:
I haven't tried yet but on my list of things to do is see if the areas zebra indicates really blow and can't be recovered.

Anyone tried it yet?
Click to expand...

There's a feature I hate! Set at 100+ it's going crazy well before the histogram's hit the right hand edge and well before pure white is reached. It seems to trigger at the same point as the blinkies on review, i.e. nowhere near blown out.

Blow it out beyond the histogram and you can't get it back in raw, there is only about 0.1 stop extra range in raw, and that has no colour info so no use whatsoever. (Lightroom, other raw converters may fare better)
 
Are there any remote shutter timers that work with the A7 i'm going to want one at some point to do some long exposure stuff. If that fails im going to butcher my canon one and attach it to a basic IR remote.
 
robj20 said:
Are there any remote shutter timers that work with the A7 i'm going to want one at some point to do some long exposure stuff. If that fails im going to butcher my canon one and attach it to a basic IR remote.
Click to expand...

Not sure about all singing/dancing intervalometers and such but there is an IR one I believe. There is also the app to allow a smartphone to be used as an advanced remote. Personally I'd rather a nice wired one. They may already exist for NEX, I haven't looked yet.
 
A pair of Minolta MD lenses arrived today, 3rd Generation MD 50mm f2 and 28mm f2.8. I The 28mm is a cracker beautiful colour and contrast, the 50mm is OK too, very smooth bokeh but not so nice on contrast.

Some from the 28mm:





 
The app for the phone is a bit rubbish if you ask me, very basic. I would much prefer a wired one, sure the USB will support such features.
 
Doesn't say its compatible with the A7 though. Plus its a bit pricey for what is a very basic function. My canon physical remote cost less, i don't always have my phone with me nor want to use it.
But thanks for the option anyway.

Those Minolta MD lenses look great for the price.
Im confused when it comes to adapters, im fine with manual focus but how would i change aperture.
 
Last edited:
robj20 said:
Excellent that means for sure there will be a timer one out at some point.



I quite fancy the 50mm f1.4.
Click to expand...

I'm currently hunting a Ricoh Rikenon 50mm f1.4. I had one ages ago but the focus ring was like a rusty gate. It's not a very sharp lens, in fact it's pretty awful - BUT it has THE nuttiest bokeh you will ever see! I think I already have too many 50ishmms though! (Zuiko f1.4, Pentax M f1.4, Rokkor f2, Nikon AFD f1.8, Rokkor 58mm f1.4, Rolliei HFT 1.8 all in all!)

The rokkors above are sharper than they look, a little movement has crept into the leaf shots - I focussed with magnification and the detail was incredible, I could have easily been looking at a Macro image!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top