The Amazing Sony A1/A7/A9/APS-C & Anything else welcome Mega Thread!

Faldrax said:
I'd guess you have the option of improved low light, or of much higher resolution - since you can either have a the same number of photocells, but each is a pixel (rather than a group being needed for colour), or have much larger photocells instead of a group of smaller photocells.
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Ahh, interesting (y)
 
trevorbray said:
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@snerkler

A true monochrome sensor has better spatial accuracy than a Bayer colour sensor, as each pixel (photo-site) is the actual light intensity, as opposed to an interpolated value. Hence why the post above says that the image will be inherently sharper.

This can be achieved in colour but you need a beam splitting prism and seperate RGB sensors, these cameras do exist in the world of machine vision and lab based microscope processing. A foveon sensor goes some way towards this, but wouldn't have the colour accuracy (resolution) of a 3 chip camera.

There are benefits to a true monochrome sensor but not if you want colour images!!!
 
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trevorbray said:
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Mr Perceptive said:
@snerkler

A true monochrome sensor has better spatial accuracy than a Bayer colour sensor, as each pixel (photo-site) is the actual light intensity, as opposed to an interpolated value. Hence why the post above says that the image will be inherently sharper.

This can be achieved in colour but you need a beam splitting prism and seperate RGB sensors, these cameras do exist in teh world of machine vision and lab based microscope processing. A foveon sensor goes some way towards this, but wouldn't havethe colour accuracy (resolution) of a 3 chip camera.

There are benefits to a true monochrome sensor but not if you want coour images!!!
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Thanks guys, interesting stuff (y)
 
LeeRatters said:
This is one of the reasons I bought the A7Riii :)

A Sunday evening wander along Clevedon seafront


*** by Lee, on Flickr


*** by Lee, on Flickr


*** by Lee, on Flickr
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Nice, once again love your use of light in the first two? I take it you're shooting towards the sun and letting the sun/sky blow out a bit?
 
snerkler said:
Nice, once again love your use of light in the first two? I take it you're shooting towards the sun and letting the sun/sky blow out a bit?
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Mr Perceptive said:
Don't forget the permanently attached Cinebloom filter!
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Yes. Not directly into the sun but certainly in that direction. And I more often than not always shoot right into the highest zebras. Saying that, nothing is usually fully blown though ;)

I think I had the 10% filter on. Not always though, they do sometimes give unwanted flare.
 
Not Sony but....I now am the owner of a Nikon body (had a Nikon digital compact before, not sure if that counts).

So now I have:-

Canon, Sony, Fujifilm, Nikon & Olympus bodies.

4z10GhG.jpg
 
LeeRatters said:
Yes. Not directly into the sun but certainly in that direction. And I more often than not always shoot right into the highest zebras. Saying that, nothing is usually fully blown though ;)

I think I had the 10% filter on. Not always though, they do sometimes give unwanted flare.
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Thanks, although the bit in bold is a foreign language to me ;)
 
Raymond Lin said:
Not Sony but....I now am the owner of a Nikon body (had a Nikon digital compact before, not sure if that counts).

So now I have:-

Canon, Sony, Fujifilm, Nikon & Olympus bodies.
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I have Nikon AIS lenses from 24-85mm plus some Nippon Kogaku's if you'd like to buy them :D
 
snerkler said:
Sounds interesting combining a 70-200mm with macro

Sony will soon announce a new VERY compact and light 70-200mm f/4.0 lens with macro! | sonyalpharumors

This info comes from one reliable and one new source: Sony will soon announce a completely redesigned 70-200mm f/4.0 G lens. It has two important new features: macro capability It will be lighter and more compact than the current 70-200mm G lens. I believe this could be a real hotseller...
www.sonyalpharumors.com www.sonyalpharumors.com
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They did that in the 70’s bit of a throwback.
 
LeeRatters said:
I think I expose more with the zebras than I do the histogram! :oops: :$ :ROFLMAO:
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I don’t know what they are, I thought they were something to do with exposure in video :exit:
 
Looking at these cinebloom filters are black mist, diffusion and cinebloom filters all the same thing and all roughly give the same look? (I appreciate some will be better quality than others)
 
snerkler said:
Looking at these cinebloom filters are black mist, diffusion and cinebloom filters all the same thing and all roughly give the same look? (I appreciate some will be better quality than others)
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Some are ‘just’ diffusion filters but the black versions hold more contrast (and certainly with the Tiffen Black Pro Mists I have (both 1/4) retain a lot of detail and tend to diffuse just the highlights.

It’s all a bit of experimentation though, I would buy one for your most used lens filter size and give it a go - then if you like the results you can invest further. U started with a 49mm one (which wasn’t too expensive) on my X100F and then graduated to a larger one for using with the GFX
 
Mr Perceptive said:
Some are ‘just’ diffusion filters but the black versions hold more contrast (and certainly with the Tiffen Black Pro Mists I have (both 1/4) retain a lot of detail and tend to diffuse just the highlights.

It’s all a bit of experimentation though, I would buy one for your most used lens filter size and give it a go - then if you like the results you can invest further. U started with a 49mm one (which wasn’t too expensive) on my X100F and then graduated to a larger one for using with the GFX
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Thanks, I like the look of the ones Lee uses tbh so I’m wondering if I specifically need cinebloom or whether any generic diffusion filter would do the trick?
 
snerkler said:
Thanks, I like the look of the ones Lee uses tbh so I’m wondering if I specifically need cinebloom or whether any generic diffusion filter would do the trick?
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I think you’ll find that a general diffusion filter won’t retain blacks very well, the Cinebloom filters are quite strong in their effect - it all depends if you like those or want something a bit more subtle - @LeeRatters certainly has great results with daylight shooting, though if used at night in an urban environment the diffusion effects might be too strong for some tastes.

Just bite the bullet and buy one to try - the resale value on these is quite strong so the cost to try isn’t huge
 
Mr Perceptive said:
I think you’ll find that a general diffusion filter won’t retain blacks very well, the Cinebloom filters are quite strong in their effect - it all depends if you like those or want something a bit more subtle - @LeeRatters certainly has great results with daylight shooting, though if used at night in an urban environment the diffusion effects might be too strong for some tastes.

Just bite the bullet and buy one to try - the resale value on these is quite strong so the cost to try isn’t huge
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@snerkler

In all honesty, I've not really used it at night for your typical urban neon light type scenes so I can't honestly comment on that. I always used to fade the blacks anyway in editing to soften the look so loosing a bit of contrast with the Cinebloom over the 'black pro mist' wasn't a concern of mine either.

The Cinebloom comes in 10%, 20% & I think now they do a 5%.

The..... Cinesoft also comes in different strengths. Tide Optics! That's who make those - I was trying to think whilst typing!

As David says, have a search for images or some YouTube comparisons & try one out.

They are certainly my most used filter by far. Probably including CPL & ND's together!
 
I don't really want to be reading about filters after getting the 12-24 GM that needs a 150mm set up, please cease and desist, it makes me ill just thinking about the cost :ROFLMAO:

Thinking of grabbing some kodak wratten gels and trying them in the rear holder.
 
Mr Perceptive said:
I think you’ll find that a general diffusion filter won’t retain blacks very well, the Cinebloom filters are quite strong in their effect - it all depends if you like those or want something a bit more subtle - @LeeRatters certainly has great results with daylight shooting, though if used at night in an urban environment the diffusion effects might be too strong for some tastes.

Just bite the bullet and buy one to try - the resale value on these is quite strong so the cost to try isn’t huge
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VERY rare that I do night shots and/or urban shots so that side of things isn't of concern for me, it's the film like quality I like, combined with Lee's use of light of course.
LeeRatters said:
@snerkler

In all honesty, I've not really used it at night for your typical urban neon light type scenes so I can't honestly comment on that. I always used to fade the blacks anyway in editing to soften the look so loosing a bit of contrast with the Cinebloom over the 'black pro mist' wasn't a concern of mine either.

The Cinebloom comes in 10%, 20% & I think now they do a 5%.

The..... Cinesoft also comes in different strengths. Tide Optics! That's who make those - I was trying to think whilst typing!

As David says, have a search for images or some YouTube comparisons & try one out.

They are certainly my most used filter by far. Probably including CPL & ND's together!
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The cinebloom ones aren't a bad price, it's just the lack of places to buy from (US only from what I can find) hence wondering if I can pick up similar ones in the UK.

Going back to the Zebras, I had a very quick look into it, even on the Sony site it says it's common (not exclusive) for video so I'm going to have a play with the camera today and see how I get it working with stills. When I was looking at the Sony site it says you can set the levels that you want the Zebras to appear from 70-100, is there a way of knowing what to set this to or is it just trial and error and experience?
 
snerkler said:
VERY rare that I do night shots and/or urban shots so that side of things isn't of concern for me, it's the film like quality I like, combined with Lee's use of light of course.

The cinebloom ones aren't a bad price, it's just the lack of places to buy from (US only from what I can find) hence wondering if I can pick up similar ones in the UK.

Going back to the Zebras, I had a very quick look into it, even on the Sony site it says it's common (not exclusive) for video so I'm going to have a play with the camera today and see how I get it working with stills. When I was looking at the Sony site it says you can set the levels that you want the Zebras to appear from 70-100, is there a way of knowing what to set this to or is it just trial and error and experience?
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OK, so I've done a bit more research on the Zebras and had a go at using them in camera, I'm now questioning why I've never been aware of or used them before :headbang: :lol:
For now I've set them to 107 +/-3 based on info I've found online and will see how I get on, I'll dial it back if I'm getting blown highlights.
 
snerkler said:
VERY rare that I do night shots and/or urban shots so that side of things isn't of concern for me, it's the film like quality I like, combined with Lee's use of light of course.

The cinebloom ones aren't a bad price, it's just the lack of places to buy from (US only from what I can find) hence wondering if I can pick up similar ones in the UK.

Going back to the Zebras, I had a very quick look into it, even on the Sony site it says it's common (not exclusive) for video so I'm going to have a play with the camera today and see how I get it working with stills. When I was looking at the Sony site it says you can set the levels that you want the Zebras to appear from 70-100, is there a way of knowing what to set this to or is it just trial and error and experience?
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I bought mine direct from Moment I think. But as I said, they did have a good offer on at the time.

I've used Zebras constantly since I got the Riii - I used to use them on and off on the A7. The newer bodies allow a lot more control over them. I also use them on the drone. I know up to a stop of Zebras isn't an issue with video or the DNG files there - mainly because it's quicker and easier to see them on screen whilst flying than study the tiny histogram!
 
LeeRatters said:
I bought mine direct from Moment I think. But as I said, they did have a good offer on at the time.

I've used Zebras constantly since I got the Riii - I used to use them on and off on the A7. The newer bodies allow a lot more control over them. I also use them on the drone. I know up to a stop of Zebras isn't an issue with video or the DNG files there - mainly because it's quicker and easier to see them on screen whilst flying than study the tiny histogram!
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Thanks. I'm yet to fully understand the zoom measurements and what a "stop of zebras" means in terms of the numbers but I'll get there (y)
 
My photobook's arrived this morning, it's been so long since I printed I forgot how different prints look, certainly duller and less vibrant, but slightly more contrasty. Overall though I'm pretty happy with it, and it's a nice momento.
 
That new 7Artisans 15mm f4 looks interesting, with only the MFD letting it down a bit.

From the rumor site.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k7bDjBtAgOI


This made me think of the Vivitar 19mm f3.8 and Tamron 17mm f3.5 I had. I'm sure this lens will be much better but there is that long MFD. For anyone not bothered about the MFD or willing to envisage and crop this could be a decent and cheap lens to think about.
 
snerkler said:
OK, so I've done a bit more research on the Zebras and had a go at using them in camera, I'm now questioning why I've never been aware of or used them before :headbang: :LOL:
For now I've set them to 107 +/-3 based on info I've found online and will see how I get on, I'll dial it back if I'm getting blown highlights.
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Have you seem Mark Galer YouTube video - zebra 109+
 
nog said:
Have you seem Mark Galer YouTube video - zebra 109+
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Thanks, I've got it on my watch list for later as it happens (y)
 
I found this interesting, certainly highlights an issue in ‘the world of photography’

www.thephoblographer.com

Photography Awards Judges Need To Do Better

The Open Category winners of the 2023 Sony World Photography Awards have been announced. And one of them isn't a photograph at all
www.thephoblographer.com www.thephoblographer.com
 
Is it possible to tweak the individual metering settings on Sony cameras like you can on Nikon, eg if you find a mode (such as centre weighted) constantly underexposes you can alter it so that it meters differently to give a brighter exposure? I know there's the exp comp dial, but it would be nice to be able to tweak the metering itself so you don't have to use the exp comp so much.

I've had a look through the menus but couldn't find anything.
 
snerkler said:
Is it possible to tweak the individual metering settings on Sony cameras like you can on Nikon, eg if you find a mode (such as centre weighted) constantly underexposes you can alter it so that it meters differently to give a brighter exposure? I know there's the exp comp dial, but it would be nice to be able to tweak the metering itself so you don't have to use the exp comp so much.

I've had a look through the menus but couldn't find anything.
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That sounds like a fault - not something I see.
 
ancient_mariner said:
That sounds like a fault - not something I see.
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I’ve mainly actually noticed it in highlight metering and it’s been the same in the A7R IV, A9II and A1 so I think it’s just the way Sony meters, it’s just that I’ve now confirmed it since being introduced to Zebras. Highlight metering certainly saves the highlights but I’d always find that I could raise exposure by 2/3 stop in post, and now I’m finding I can do the same in camera before the Zebras appear (y)
 
snerkler said:
I’ve mainly actually noticed it in highlight metering and it’s been the same in the A7R IV, A9II and A1 so I think it’s just the way Sony meters, it’s just that I’ve now confirmed it since being introduced to Zebras. Highlight metering certainly saves the highlights but I’d always find that I could raise exposure by 2/3 stop in post, and now I’m finding I can do the same in camera before the Zebras appear (y)
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OK, I'd not completely understood the comment.
 
Used A9 still a viable upgrade in 2023? I'm starting to find my A7iii + 200-600mm slightly annoying in acquisition speed and focus speed between shots for fast moving birds and in flight etc. I'm not a rich man and my options for improvement in this area limited, so I have been thinking about an A9 which is obviously better for these tasks than the A7iii. Seem to go for around £1k , which isn't too bad but it feels a bit weird buying a 4yr old body even though the A9 with it's stacked sensor was way ahead of it's time and it's competition. Any thoughts?
 
NewBeetle said:
Used A9 still a viable upgrade in 2023? I'm starting to find my A7iii + 200-600mm slightly annoying in acquisition speed and focus speed between shots for fast moving birds and in flight etc. I'm not a rich man and my options for improvement in this area limited, so I have been thinking about an A9 which is obviously better for these tasks than the A7iii. Seem to go for around £1k , which isn't too bad but it feels a bit weird buying a 4yr old body even though the A9 with it's stacked sensor was way ahead of it's time and it's competition. Any thoughts?
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Personally would suggest A7IV if you could afford the extra £700-800.
If not for tracking purposes A9 is still great.
But you take a hit on dynamic range at base ISO (though this may not matter to you).
 
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