The Amazing Sony A1/A7/A9/APS-C & Anything else welcome Mega Thread!

Bungieben said:
Am i asking too much to get the subject sharper like this at 1/80 ss 200mm slight crop close to 40mph very erratic or just practice try to be smooth and steady, just curious.

Kingsbury water park by Ben Cheneler, on Flickr
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I’m only viewing on the phone but it looks pretty good, as Toni said unless it’s running completely perpendicular you’ll not get the whole thing sharp, part will be tack sharp (hopefully) but part won’t.

When you see shots at a 3/4 angle where the whole vehicle is tack sharp yet there’s high motion blur in the background it’s be photoshopped.
 
I did a series of photo's of a 'bud', all the same distance, and settings, on all of the RAW settings. Then I cropped all the photo's to just the 'bud'. The uncompressed gave a little larger picture, but when the smaller compressed was zoomed slightly to the same size, the photo's were of equal quality. If anything the smaller one was sharper, but that could have been when I took the photo. In spite of that the next size down was no better. Not very scientific, I know, but I will try again when the sun is out.
 
Redspider said:
I did a series of photo's of a 'bud', all the same distance, and settings, on all of the RAW settings. Then I cropped all the photo's to just the 'bud'. The uncompressed gave a little larger picture, but when the smaller compressed was zoomed slightly to the same size, the photo's were of equal quality. If anything the smaller one was sharper, but that could have been when I took the photo. In spite of that the next size down was no better. Not very scientific, I know, but I will try again when the sun is out.
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It's not really sharpness where you'll see a difference in compressed vs uncompressed, it's more colour depth and dynamic range when really pushed hard in post. You might not be able to rescue highlights as much and you may see more colour shifts when pushing PP, but tbh you've really got to scrutinise it to see, 99% of the time it'll likely make no difference.

If you have a camera with lossless compressed you may as well use this over compressed though as there's not that much difference in file size between lossloess compressed and compressed. The difference between uncompressed and compressed is significant though, especially with the high res sensors.
 
snerkler said:
It's not really sharpness where you'll see a difference in compressed vs uncompressed, it's more colour depth and dynamic range when really pushed hard in post. You might not be able to rescue highlights as much and you may see more colour shifts when pushing PP, but tbh you've really got to scrutinise it to see, 99% of the time it'll likely make no difference.

If you have a camera with lossless compressed you may as well use this over compressed though as there's not that much difference in file size between lossloess compressed and compressed. The difference between uncompressed and compressed is significant though, especially with the high res sensors.
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I remember many years ago I had photo of a steam train that was grossly overexposed, & impossible to process. Years later, with new software, I was able to completly restore the raw photo. So I do agree that could well be the problem with compressed RAW in the future.
 
snerkler said:
I think that's the same with any picture profile though, for example Landscape on Sony is going to look significantly different to the raw and I believe the histograms likewise when loaded into software, whereas standard will look very similar. I'll have to get my lab coat out ;)
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Trying camera standard shooting raw and jpeg the histograms are quite similar in LR for both for just raw import with no settings, choosing the camera standard profile for the raw it matches even more closely to the jpeg, but still no 100%. The jpeg appears much brighter in certain colour channels, especially red and magenta. The jpegs also have a greener hue.

When choosing VV picture profile the raw and jpeg histograms are quite different when first imported. When selecting the VV profile for the raw it is closer, but not as close as camera standard profile.

What's also interesting is that the jpegs don't fully correct the distortion despite having distortion correction on in camera.

Edit: just checked the lens distortion corrections in camera and it's greyed out, I'm wondering if it needs an update for the 20-70mm, I'll have to try a different lens later.
 
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I'm going on a studio type photoshoot on Friday, strobes will be set by the organisers and we'll be given universal triggers, I assume there'll be no problems using my A1 with such triggers? Would I be OK still using the electronic shutter, or am I best to use mechanical?
 
snerkler said:
I'm going on a studio type photoshoot on Friday, strobes will be set by the organisers and we'll be given universal triggers, I assume there'll be no problems using my A1 with such triggers? Would I be OK still using the electronic shutter, or am I best to use mechanical?
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Just take a bit of care when fitting the triggers - because of the extra space at the front for the contacts you need to check the position is right to get the centre pin to line up.
Not sure on the shutter - electronic may be fine, but mechanical will be OK if not.
 
Faldrax said:
Just take a bit of care when fitting the triggers - because of the extra space at the front for the contacts you need to check the position is right to get the centre pin to line up.
Not sure on the shutter - electronic may be fine, but mechanical will be OK if not.
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Thanks, I've had no issue with my godox but not sure what they'll use.
 
snerkler said:
Thanks, I've had no issue with my godox but not sure what they'll use.
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If you've got a Godox Sony fit trigger I'd be tempted to stick it in the camera bag just in case - a lot of places use Godox strobes, and if there are any issues with a generic trigger, if you've got the native one with you as a possible alternative.
 
snerkler said:
I'm going on a studio type photoshoot on Friday, strobes will be set by the organisers and we'll be given universal triggers, I assume there'll be no problems using my A1 with such triggers? Would I be OK still using the electronic shutter, or am I best to use mechanical?
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I'm not sure the flash will fire in electronic shutter on the A1 on the A9ii it doesn't.
 
snerkler said:
I'm going on a studio type photoshoot on Friday, strobes will be set by the organisers and we'll be given universal triggers, I assume there'll be no problems using my A1 with such triggers? Would I be OK still using the electronic shutter, or am I best to use mechanical?
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T_J_G said:
I'm not sure the flash will fire in electronic shutter on the A1 on the A9ii it doesn't.
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I don't think electronic will fire it either. I know on the Move Shoot Move if using it for rotation timelapse, it takes the signal from the hot shoe to rotate in-between shots and that doesn't work in electronic.
 
T_J_G said:
I'm not sure the flash will fire in electronic shutter on the A1 on the A9ii it doesn't.
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LeeRatters said:
I don't think electronic will fire it either. I know on the Move Shoot Move if using it for rotation timelapse, it takes the signal from the hot shoe to rotate in-between shots and that doesn't work in electronic.
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AFAIK the A1 was the first camera to be able to use flash with the electronic shutter, you can use it up to 1/200.
 
T_J_G said:
Yes you may be right actually. I remember when I shot with someone who had a pair of A1s
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Well it definitely can use flash with electronic shutter as I've done it with mine, it's just whether it was the first to allow it that I'm not sure about (y)
 
wookie6262 said:
You will need to use Mechanical shutter and it likely won't sync past 1/200 from the centre pin
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Why's that? I tried my Godox earlier and it worked with electronic up to 1/200, and with mechanical t0 1/400 unless using HSS in which shutter speed could go up higher (i didn't see how far it would go but it worked at 1/2500)
 
snerkler said:
Why's that? I tried my Godox earlier and it worked with electronic up to 1/200, and with mechanical t0 1/400 unless using HSS in which shutter speed could go up higher (i didn't see how far it would go but it worked at 1/2500)
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Is that a Sony specific Godox. If so the comms are coming from the pins at the front of the hotshoe I think rather than the centre pin. My Sony Godox will fire as you describe but just tried a Nikon one to mimic a generic trigger and the result was only mechanical and only 1/200 sync.
 
wookie6262 said:
Is that a Sony specific Godox. If so the comms are coming from the pins at the front of the hotshoe I think rather than the centre pin. My Sony Godox will fire as you describe but just tried a Nikon one to mimic a generic trigger and the result was only mechanical and only 1/200 sync.
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I wouldn’t have expected a Nikon one to
work at all :oops: :$

I guess I’ll find out on Friday. I doubt I’ll be needing any faster than 1/200 anyway, I’d imagine there’s always the option on turning the strobe power down.

Edit: if they do use godox and I take my own trigger would this mean I’d get the full mechanical sync speed of 1/400, and would I be able to use the electronic shutter (at 1/200) or do you need compatible strobes too?
 
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snerkler said:
I wouldn’t have expected a Nikon one to
work at all :oops: :$

I guess I’ll find out on Friday. I doubt I’ll be needing any faster than 1/200 anyway, I’d imagine there’s always the option on turning the strobe power down.

Edit: if they do use godox and I take my own trigger would this mean I’d get the full mechanical sync speed of 1/400, and would I be able to use the electronic shutter (at 1/200) or do you need compatible strobes too?
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Only if they use Godox Strobes. Take it as you never know. 1/200 will be fine in most studios unless you are shooting a big aperture. Hope it goes well and look forward to seeing the shots
 
wookie6262 said:
Only if they use Godox Strobes. Take it as you never know. 1/200 will be fine in most studios unless you are shooting a big aperture. Hope it goes well and look forward to seeing the shots
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Looking at previous events it looks as though they use pixapro :(
 
wookie6262 said:
Pixapro is rebranded Godox. My Godox Sony triggers work perfectly with my Pixapro strobes
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Thanks, I didn't see this until after my other post. Speaking to the organisers they're recommending 1/160 shutter and as 3 people will be shooting the same model I'm guessing there's not going to be much/any opportunity to change the lighting without upsetting the other two so I don't think I'm going to be able to use wide apertures. I know in studios you don't tend to anyway, but me being me I would like to blur the background if I could ;)
 
snerkler said:
All I want it better subject detection, dog specific would be nice.
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One limitation with my old A7 is that its face detect doesn't work if the face is small in the frame. There must come a point at which it wont work, that's obvious, but it fails at distances at which my MFT cameras eye/face detect still works so there's no doubt room for improvement for me there with newer A7 models.
 
woof woof said:
The rumor site says that a "massive" A1 update is coming.

Dear Sony, can you finally discount the Sony A1? – sonyalpharumors

www.sonyalpharumors.com www.sonyalpharumors.com

That's nice.
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Hoping for some form of pre-release. A FPS implication like Nikon where you can take jpegs at a faster rate would be good too but pre-release may make me resist the A9 iii. Saw an A1 for £2900 from a reputable seller today so another milestone at least in terms of cost has been breached. Condition was a wee bit scruffy and it had been an import but that is a huge amount of camera for the cash and I was very tempted to get it and sell my A9 and A9ii to cover the cost
 
T_J_G said:
35GM just arrived :banana:
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wookie6262 said:
I've not tried out my new to me 35GM but it looks brilliant from teh shots I have taken in the house. Hope it is all you want it to be.
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I think the 35mm GM is my favourite lens, great size and weight, sharp and renders beautifully, what's not to like :cool:
 
35GM gets a lot of love here but it’s not without its flaws. It’s a very warm lens which I don’t mind but others do.

Have seen quite a few people having issues with back focusing when there is busy backgrounds have only come across that once myself though. I am a fan.
 
T_J_G said:
So far so good, as expected. Probably get packed away now until its first trip out for work
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I sometimes think I’d be better off with the 50mm f1.4 instead of the f1.2 as it’s very similar size and weight to the 35mm and that’s much nicer to use.
 
My pergear cfexpress cards have arrived, I think they take a leaf out of Amazon's book when it comes to packaging size :LOL:
 
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