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Nicely done. 1/10 is always tricky.
Nicely done. 1/10 is always tricky.
Agreed but I’m doing exactly the same as I have been for years so it seems hard to imagine it’s suddenly gone wrongI suppose the obvious starting point would be shutter speed and focus mode.
Start the warranty claim Mike.Agreed but I’m doing exactly the same as I have been for years so it seems hard to imagine it’s suddenly gone wrong![]()
Agreed but I’m doing exactly the same as I have been for years so it seems hard to imagine it’s suddenly gone wrong![]()
Oh dear, sorry to hear this. I would definitely contact Cotswolds and explain what’s happened with both lenses and ask for an exchange/warranty repair.Hello Sony Chums.
You may recall me moaning about a lack of sharpness in my birding shots taken with A6700 and 70-350 a few weeks back - well I got shot of the 70-350, and now have a Sigma 105mm for macro work. I took a fair number of shots this morning and basically none of them are properly sharp
Thinking I must have a duff copy of the camera as it seems too much of a coincidence that it could be the lens again ( I have been shooting macro for 10 years+ so I have a pretty good idea what I am doing and what a sharp shot should look like).
Any thoughts or suggestions, or should I start the warranty process with Cotswolds?
Thanks for any replies
Start the warranty claim Mike.
Gents - thanks, I think I will have to. I took a reasonably scientific close up shot using manual focus and compared it to a shot taken with my RX10iv and Raynox150 to give roughly the same framing - the A6700 + Sigma 105 should knock it out of the park but if anything the RX10 shot is sharper. Weird.Oh dear, sorry to hear this. I would definitely contact Cotswolds and explain what’s happened with both lenses and ask for an exchange/warranty repair.
Thanks Alan - I shoot macro almost always with the same settings: F16 for depth of field (yes I know about diffraction but this helps DOF), lowish iso, shutter set to max flash sync speed (1/160 for the A6700) and diffused flash on ETL mode. I usually autofocus - many others don't but I find it easier and usually reliable - if I get the chance I'll try a bug shot on manual focus with zebras on.Unsharp pictures seems a bit subtle a fault for mirrorless, or maybe not. Maybe post as many details as you can just in case someone has a bright idea.

Have you had sharp shots with any lens on the A6700?Thanks Alan - I shoot macro almost always with the same settings: F16 for depth of field (yes I know about diffraction but this helps DOF), lowish iso, shutter set to max flash sync speed (1/160 for the A6700) and diffused flash on ETL mode. I usually autofocus - many others don't but I find it easier and usually reliable - if I get the chance I'll try a bug shot on manual focus with zebras on.
I was previously shooting on an A7Rii with 90mm and got lots of great shots with this method - please for the love of god don't ask me why I changed this setup![]()
Yes, a few, such as the below. It's almost like it's slightly missing focus with most of them though (I thought back focussing at one point).Have you had sharp shots with any lens on the A6700?

So all lenses are demonstrating the same behaviour?Yes, a few, such as the below. It's almost like it's slightly missing focus with most of them though (I thought back focussing at one point).
I've emailed Cotswolds to start the warranty process - will see what they say...
Robin by Mike Smith, on Flickr
Yes, that's what it looks like - I wouldn't say I've exhaustively tested the Sigma 105 (might try a few tomorrow on manual focus) but I took a fair few with the 70-350 and the bulk of them were slightly OOF. I also have the 10-20 but haven't taken many shots with it and it's pretty hard to miss focus on a wide angle...So all lenses are demonstrating the same behaviour?
Yes, that's what it looks like - I wouldn't say I've exhaustively tested the Sigma 105 (might try a few tomorrow on manual focus) but I took a fair few with the 70-350 and the bulk of them were slightly OOF. I also have the 10-20 but haven't taken many shots with it and it's pretty hard to miss focus on a wide angle...
That is how it should work and that is the standard to only go up to 9999 images but that seems different to the problem Alan is describing where it's creating new folders for each day of shooting if I'm understanding correctly.Following on from Alan's @woof woof SD card folder thingy issues.....
I've just got some images from the A7Riii, and I've a batch of them in 100MSDCF & another batch in 101MSDCF - It appears that although I format & I am set up in 'series', I reached 9999 during a sunrise shoot & the camera created a new 101 folder & started again from 0001 - I only noticed because in the PC Windows Explorer folder, the blue hour sunrise shot was AFTER the golden hour shots hence I checked the filenames.....
That is how it should work and that is the standard to only go up to 9999 images but that seems different to the problem Alan is describing where it's creating new folders for each day of shooting if I'm understanding correctly.
As above, perfectly normal once your file number reaches 9999, it's done it on every digital camera I've hadYes, I didn't say it was exactly the same. But it's not something I've ever noticed to just automatically create an extra folder before. I've just formatted it, which I do fairly regular, and now if I go into the select recording folder option, it's just showing a single 100MSDCF.
As above, perfectly normal once your file number reaches 9999, it's done it on every digital camera I've had![]()
That is how it should work and that is the standard to only go up to 9999 images but that seems different to the problem Alan is describing where it's creating new folders for each day of shooting if I'm understanding correctly.
One DCF directory may contain up to 9999 DCF objects, numbered from "0001" to "9999" (except for some manufacturers like Panasonic which number from "0001" to "0999"). This number is also known as a "file number". Consequently, if the prefix used is "DSC0", it may cause users who are not aware of the DCF standard to wonder why the picture counter wraps around after 9999, while there is seemingly still a significant number left. For example, the next file after DSC09999.JPG will create a new folder containing DSC00001.JPG, rather than continuing in the same folder to DSC10000.JPG.
It will when you formatObviously never noticed it before. But the 101 folder has vanished now anyway. And it's back to just having the original 100 folder.
DSC02388.jpg by Keith, on Flickr
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Some from today. A7III and Sony 40mm f2.5.
Panorama.
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At the top.
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He got his bike to the top. His next stop... Saltburn.
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Mrs WW telling the world we made it via social media.
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I took this same shot a few years ago with my A7 and Sony 35mm f1.8.
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On to Captain Cook's monument. Panorama.
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Just to prove we made it. Roseberry Topping in the distance too.
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We did 27,170 steps and Mrs WW says she doesn't want to walk this far again.
Excellent Alan![]()

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That's a problem as these pictures could have been taken with any of my Sony lenses. The 40mm f2.5 is a good lens and although I wouldn't say it's clinical as I don't like that term I do think it's pretty transparent as it pretty accurately captures the scene and leave little trace of what lens was used. I think vignetting is its biggest issue but in these pictures even that issue isn't much of an issue. If I'd used a film era lens or even one of my modern manual lenses there'd be more to look at.
I suppose it just depends what we want. A competent modern lens which leaves little if any fingerprints on the pictures you take with it or something which leaves a trace which is recognisable if you know what you're looking at. I have been thinking of selling most of my remaining film era lenses or maybe all of them. I'll have to have a think.
Yellow and an aeroplane.
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It's the time factor that goes against mf lenses and with them a day out becomes more about photography than the day and the people. If I'm by myself then mf is much more of an option. I do like photography but on a day out with my other half or anyone else photography is an add on, not the main event.

I'm not comfortable putting any camera I have in a pocket so they go in a man or camera bag and my MFT RF style camera aren't really all that much smaller or lighter to make any real difference if I'm taking a bag so I often take my A7 or III as they're better cameras especially as now that I have the III I have a FF camera with an electronic shutter for silent shooting. Today I took my GX9 and 20mm f1.7 just for a change.
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I have the 20-70mm f4 and it's a great lens for travel as it covers most bases as you say, however for landscapes and architecture I prefer to use the 16-35mm as i still prefer wider than 20mm for these things.Hi folks, I'm wading through the reviews online for the Sony 20-70mm f4. I only have a Sony 35mm prime and a couple of nice 50mm prime film lenses (one is f1.4) at the moment.
I'm definitely missing something wide for landscapes and architecture and the 20-70mm appeals, so I can leave the house with one lens knowing most bases are covered. I've ruled out the 24mm-70mm Sigma Arts as I think I'll get more from the wider 20mm of the Sony vs the f2.8 of the Sigma. The smaller size and weight of the 20-70mm is also a very significant advantage for me.
So I think I can live with f4, and I've read about and am cool with some distortion at 20mm....but would welcome any experiences of anyone here who has the lens? Any other limitations / deal-breaking issues I should be aware of? Sample images welcome!
Thanks all
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