Beginner The best free photo editing software for beginners?

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12
Name
Matthew
Edit My Images
Yes
Hello people, I am a newbie photographer and I just made an account in this forum. I recently moved from Enschede (The Netherlands) to London. I use Nikon D500, ofcourse it is a gift from my sister. I would like to know, which is the best free photo editing software, just to get myself introduced in this area. Because i do not have a lot of experience with this type of programs. And then i will probably ask you about the one i should use after that.

Thank you.
 
The first point of call for free software is generally the manufacturers own software, in this case Nikon ViewNX2 - http://imaging.nikon.com/lineup/software/viewnx2/

As to paid software, the market leader is Lightroom but there are many more to consider. If you read through the forum you'll probably find that most of us use Lightroom, but there are many discussions of the alternatives.
 
Thank you for your fast reply! I will keep reading through the forum and see what I can find.

Thank you very much!
 
You should also consider the aesthetic style of photography you want to achieve. Lightroom is powerful and generalist enough to adapt to most specific aesthetic styles. Some, like Alien Skin Exposure have a more niche appeal.

It's also worth looking at the Nik Collection, it doesn't include a raw handler but it does include a lot of very powerful and advanced image processing tools. And they're free - www.google.com/nikcollection/


For what it's worth, my suggestion is that if you're at all serious about photography invest in Lightroom. Take the free trial at a time when you've got the time to use it and really test it out, give yourself a couple of weeks at least of taking the camera out with you every day and then putting the images into Lightroom each night. Don't try and trial software by not using it, no point taking a trial if you know you've a busy couple of weeks coming up. If you do like LR, there are ways of getting discounts on the normal price (eg. sign-up for free with PhotoSerge and get about 20% off).
 
I agree about trying Nikon's own software - it's especially good for raw conversion (personally, I prefer the results to Adobe's conversions). There are now more recent free packages than ViewNX2 - ViewNX-i and Capture NX-D:

https://nikonimglib.com/nvnxi/
https://nikonimglib.com/ncnxd/

View emphasises browsing, and Capture has more control over raw conversion, but either package will do both. I'm also impressed by the Nik collection, which can be used on its own, though it works best as a set of plugins to an image editor:

https://photo.stackexchange.com/que...ection-be-used-without-photoshop-or-lightroom

Two free image editors worth looking at are GIMP and Paint.NET:

https://www.gimp.org/
https://www.getpaint.net/

GIMP (all platforms) is more powerful, but Paint.NET (Windows only) is probably easier. On Windows, both can be installed conveniently and without malware using Ninite:

https://ninite.com/

For a commercial but relatively inexpensive and fully-featured image editor, take a look at Affinity (Mac or Windows):

https://affinity.serif.com
 
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Polarr is pretty good free. Works well in-browser as well as on lots of different OS. Caveat - only used the free version to demo to students and not delved too deeply. https://www.polarr.co/

I use Lightroom (as I also need Photoshop for non-photo stuff) as a paid solution.
 
If you will be taking Raw
Check software compatibility with your camera
 
Hello Matthew and welcome to TP.

I agree about GIMP. It can do a lot but it takes quite a bit of time to get into it. There are, however, GIMP forums that can help.

If you have jpegs you want to edit quickly, have a look at Photoscape ( https://photoscape.en.softonic.com/ ). It is limited compared to the likes of GIMP but it is VERY easy to use.

Dave
 
First thing I learned when I came to these forums was to calibrate your screen colours! It makes a bigger difference than which processing software you use.
...and what's the best way of doing that? I recall seeing hardware for doing that at astronomical prices a good few years back but hope it's easier & cheaper these days!

Presumably setting the brightness/contrast of your screen is allied to that. I know I've had disappointing prints in the past due to monitor being too light/dark but don't really know how I should be addressing it.
 
I would echo the first port of call as Nikon NX-D (free) which will be totally compatible with your camera, allows some editing (though limited) and exporting into another programme. 'Free' isn't always the easiest to use, Adobe Elements older versions can be cheap and will give you plenty of options to learn, get to know what does what and prepare you for a better package later when you need it. :)
 
...and what's the best way of doing that? I recall seeing hardware for doing that at astronomical prices a good few years back but hope it's easier & cheaper these days!

Presumably setting the brightness/contrast of your screen is allied to that. I know I've had disappointing prints in the past due to monitor being too light/dark but don't really know how I should be addressing it.

Calibration software and hardware has come down in price now. Under £100. I've just bought a BeqQ monitor which allegedly is calibrated accurately from the factory that is doesn't need calibration. First results look pretty good although, being someone who likes to mess about I'll probably calibrate it eventually.

With regard to software for Processing I'd stick to Nikons own. This will give you an opportunity to develop your photography and decide where it's going. To use Lightroom you'd need at least 5.7 I think for a D500.

The free ones I've tried have all been compromised to a degree and I found spending a little money was beneficial.

I think it would be fair to say that most photographer who want to get the best out of their photographers use Lightroom and or Photoshop (Elements or CS). There are a couple of others out there but Adobe takes the lions share.
 
You get a free Nikon D500 from your sister then are about free program. Do you plan on spending anything on photography yourself
 
Hello people, I am a newbie photographer and I just made an account in this forum. I recently moved from Enschede (The Netherlands) to London. I use Nikon D500, ofcourse it is a gift from my sister. I would like to know, which is the best free photo editing software, just to get myself introduced in this area. Because i do not have a lot of experience with this type of programs. And then i will probably ask you about the one i should use after that.
It seems you are serious about taking up photography if you have been given a D500, so don't waste your time with freebie software. It's not worth it in the long run and I suggest you get straight into Lightroom. You can begin by buying LR6 as a stand-alone. It is not only a superb photo-editing and processing package, but one of if not the best database management systems for photography.
 
The old stuck-in-the-mud option of course, is just 'don't'

Aim to get it 'Clean in Camera'. Put the time and attention in 'up-front' to get the best image in-camera'as you can.
- Putting in the time and attention to make the most of your subject you will likely get far more, and better straight 'captures'.
- These 'straight captures' should then need NO post-processing to 'make' anything of them
- Nll or Negligible PP means less time spent trying to make a silk-purse out of a sows ear.
If you have 1000 images on the SD card by the end of a shoot, that is a HECK of a lot of time, NOT spent trying to 'correct' stuff you shouldn't and probably needn't have got wrong to start with.

THIS is where you start with Post-Process... aiming NOT to do any, if you can get away with it.

"Oh but the PRO's!".. get paid, and time is money! Any Pro that wastes time on Post-Process is loosing earnings. Once upon a time, few did ANY Post-Process; film was shot; developed at a lab, and we got back prints, and that was that. A few (madmen like me!) wasted nights and weekends in the dark-room; but not many, A-N-D... for an awful lot of post-process, if you don't have a decent picture to start with, it's a waste of time, you wont make much of a difference diddling it.

If you want to get into the more esoteric arena of 'Creative' Post process... well, a lot of that is 'art', like in Dark-Room days air-brushing back-grounds and blemishes.. easy to do.. usually badly..... in the digital domain... you have been warned..... more directly phonographic manipulations, like montaging multiple images, again, and even more so, tend to demand an even higher degree of 'Clean-in-Camera' discipline to make the separate elements to be montaged and 'match' the lighting and scale to make them work in post. More 'art', and even more C-in-C... you don't 'make' photo's in Post-Process... most just make mistakes! It is a really huge arena, and one where so many one-touch automated 'filter' effect post-processes now exit to make it 'seem' easy to do.... and oh-so-hard to make it 'work'......

If you are starting out, with a gift camera; google the Nikon webby, they have the latest versions of the original software, like View NX available to down-load, which is usefufl if you wish to shoot RAW and make life hard from the start... but MY advice is FIRST shoot jpg, learn to exploit the camera and aim to make as much of THAT as you can. And even there... you dont need to start getting lost in the trees looking for the forrest, worrying about 'settings'....

Learn about composition; worry about looking THROUGH. the camera, not at it; finding interesting subjects to take photo's of; then the more interesting angles to flatter them; pay attention to the back ground... little mantra for you... "North, South, East West, check the corners THEN the rest!" Look at the WHOLE frame, don't just slap the 'thing' of interest in the middle and hold the camera level in 'landscape' mode. LOOK at the subject, turn the camera to get best framing; change angle, look at the top, the bottom, the sides the corners, THEN look at the middle again... what is in there? What s interest, what is distracting, what is context. Make the MOST of the SCENE you see through the view-finder.... you will NEVER make more of it in post-process! Likewise settings! Likewise shooting 'RAW'. If you don't put it in front puf the lens to best effect to start with, you are on a looser from the off.

When you have your images, as best you can Clean in Camera.... those that don't work... don't work! You wont 'fix' them very often digi-diddling; so don't sweat it, take the lesson, go back to capture, get it Clean-in-Camera, and worry about getting the best you can THERE not in the computer!

As far as that goes, Photo-Shop is the incumbent post-processing software; there are many versions abut, and many older now 'free' versions, if you don't want to pay or pay a subscription. Its a very powerful bit of software, and if you want to learn the ropes, where you may learn them. One-Touch effects filters in things like instagram that do 'something' you don't understand, wont teach you how to post process, its rather like trying to learn to cook, buying TV dinners and zappng them in the microwave!

BUT, heed the warning... post-process is over-done; and habitually so by many who think they have to, just because they can, and well, /every-one does it don't they? No.. no they don't, and you will likely do a lot better NOT presuming so, and concentrating on making the most you can 'clean in camera'.... and if you are just starting out, its a good tip; DON'T bite off more than you can chew; don't heap up the plate; deal with one bit of learning at a time, and learning to get the most 'in' to the camera is enough to be getting on with... few do even that well.. jumping into the frey, ignoring that, worrying about 'settings' and then 'Post-Process' but it wont help you learn much, it's a bit like trying to learn algebra, and not bothering to learn to count first!

Learn to LOOK before you try and RUN 'programs' fumble buttons and swing sliders.
 
Although not a very old thread, the OP doesn't appear to have been here since mid May...
 
...and what's the best way of doing that? I recall seeing hardware for doing that at astronomical prices a good few years back but hope it's easier & cheaper these days!

Presumably setting the brightness/contrast of your screen is allied to that. I know I've had disappointing prints in the past due to monitor being too light/dark but don't really know how I should be addressing it.
You can start with software calibration, but hardware calibration tools don't need to be astronomical in price.

But a crap monitor will still impede your progress, a second hand spyder pro would be my recommendation.
 
I know I've had disappointing prints in the past due to monitor being too light/dark but don't really know how I should be addressing it.
As above ^ and:
Even with a decent monitor, it sounds as though you may not be familiar with soft-proofing for prints and the associated topics. This is going off-thread, but I suggest you familiarise yourself with that topic as the quality of your prints involves a lot more than only monitor calibration.
 
As you are very new to photography as well as photo editing so I would suggest you to use Pixlr and SnapSeed. They are free photo editing software and doesn't require much knowledge on photo editing.
 
As you are very new to photography as well as photo editing so I would suggest you to use Pixlr and SnapSeed. They are free photo editing software and doesn't require much knowledge on photo editing.

pixlr is on online editor and you need to be connected to the internet to use
snapseed ? sorry but can you even get that on a computer? isn't it for phones ?
 
Just looked at this.. would be great if it had rotate crop ..alas no :(

By 'rotate crop' do you mean combining these two actions, Kipax? If so, then I agree that is not possible, but Photoscape does allow rotate and crop as separate actions.

Dave
 
By 'rotate crop' do you mean combining these two actions, Kipax? If so, then I agree that is not possible, but Photoscape does allow rotate and crop as separate actions.

Dave

freehand rotate as in straighten ..couldnt find it anywhere?
 
freehand rotate as in straighten ..couldnt find it anywhere?


The symbol to the left of the blue arrow indicating 90 degree CCW rotation allows free rotation.

Dave
 
As a relative beginner myself (last 3/4 years or so), I would say it depends why, what and how you shoot and how much time you want to spend on the pc. Personally I hate being sat at the computer for any length of time; on the other hand I have spent countless hours playing with my cameras, getting to grips with the settings and how to get my pictures as close to how I want them before they get to the PC. I would say getting to know your gear and practice with Composition and exposure/light etc will give you a lot more pleasure and ultimately better results.

I use computers a lot for work related stuff and don't want another reason to be on them, so don't bother with raw. I make the odd adjustments I need (to a copy, never the original) with Fastone Image Viewer. Don't get bogged down with the software side straight away; it could put you off photography!
 
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