The Fabulous Fuji X owners thread

trevorbray said:
If only I could do it Medium Format. One day...
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When I shot at Oulton Park I switched off continuous shooting with the GFX and went single shot, old skool panning just like film, one shot per pan! In continuous shooting at max 3fps it was very difficult to get the pan angle you wanted to conincide with the shutter release, as the car would just be in the wrong place!

Of course with an X-H2S with plenty of memory cards (and batteries) you could take 10's of thousands of shots in a day, but the thought of going through those afterwards gives me nightmares, but at least you'd know that most would be in focus!!

There is a touch and try day at my favourite store on Saturday, I think I should stay away.................
 
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Mr Perceptive said:
When I shot at Oulton Park I switched off continuous shooting with the GFX and went single shot, old skool panning just like film, one shot per pan! In continuous shooting at max 3fps it was very difficult to get the pan angle you wanted to conincide withy the shutter release, as the car would just be in the wrong place!

Of course with an X-H2S with plenty of memory cards (and batteries) you could take 10's of thousands of shots in a day, but the thought of going through those afterwards gives me nightmares, but at least you'd know that most would be in focus!!

There is a touch and try day at my favourite store on Saturday, I think I should stay away.................
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For the first time ever, I tried the X-T20 on continuous 8fps for a holiday visit to a French 'jouters' competition - think of medieval jousting using rowing boats instead of horses. That was last week and yesterday I spent all day whittling it down from 1500 shots to just enough to tell the story. Brain-sapping. And I've still got cropping, exposure and alignment to tweak.

jouters%200720.jpg


Don't really want to do all that again, so I need to find a medium ground. The X-T20's slower fps was far more likely to miss the point-of-impact.

(And this was with boats at about 5mph; no idea how it's possible to shoot/manage so many shots with faster moving subjects!)
 
goldtop said:
For the first time ever, I tried the X-T20 on continuous 8fps for a holiday visit to a French 'jouters' competition - think of medieval jousting using rowing boats instead of horses. That was last week and yesterday I spent all day whittling it down from 1500 shots to just enough to tell the story. Brain-sapping. And I've still got cropping, exposure and alignment to tweak.

jouters%200720.jpg


Don't really want to do all that again, so I need to find a medium ground. The X-T20's slower fps was far more likely to miss the point-of-impact.

(And this was with boats at about 5mph; no idea how it's possible to shoot/manage so many shots with faster moving subjects!)
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When the X-T2 was launched I went to Oulton Park to try out the tracking, shot 900 shots in the first hour RAW+JPG (on a single battery!), the guy who I was with shot 1200 JPG in the same time. I culled my 900 down to 3, it wasn't that they were out of focus, they were just not what I wanted! I actually think, that pre-focus and single shot is probably the way to go! With motorsport and panning you are fixing the shutter speed, and with good light you often end up with quite a small aperture - F11/F16 so you actually have a good DOF so with careful pre-focus teh subject shoulod be in focus, if its not sharp its your panning technique. I'm going back in a weeks time (as long as its not pouring with rain) and I might try a ND filter to see if I can pan with a shallower depth of field - out of interest more than artistic merit!
 
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Mr Perceptive said:
When the X-T2 was launched I went to Oulton Park to try out the tracking, shot 900 shots in the first hour RAW+JPG (on a single battery!), the guy who I was with shot 1200 JPG in the same time. I culled my 900 down to 3, it wasn't that they were out of focus, they were just not what I wanted! I actually think, that pre-focus and single shot is probably the way to go! With motorsport and panning you are fixing the shutter speed, and with good light you often end up with quite a small aperture - F11/F16 so you actually have a good DOF so with careful pre-focus teh subject shoulod be in focus, if its not sharp its your panning technique. I'm going back in a weeks time (as long as its not pouring with rain) and I might try a ND filter to see if I can pan with a shallower depth of field - out of interest more than artistic merit!
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I don't think shallow DOF matters too much when panning tbh as the background is blurred anyway. Obviously if it's really shallow then the background blur may appear 'softer' but the only reason I try to keep aperture as wide as possible is to mask out the catch fencing as much as possible.

I'm not sure I'd get anything in focus if I only did a one shot pan when at 1/10 etc, I rely on the high frame rate so that hopefully at least one of the burst shots will be sharp :exit:
 
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Mr Perceptive said:
When I shot at Oulton Park I switched off continuous shooting with the GFX and went single shot, old skool panning just like film, one shot per pan! In continuous shooting at max 3fps it was very difficult to get the pan angle you wanted to conincide with the shutter release, as the car would just be in the wrong place!

Of course with an X-H2S with plenty of memory cards (and batteries) you could take 10's of thousands of shots in a day, but the thought of going through those afterwards gives me nightmares, but at least you'd know that most would be in focus!!

There is a touch and try day at my favourite store on Saturday, I think I should stay away.................
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Perhaps Adobe can come up with an app that checks for the "in focus" shots :ROFLMAO: There'd be no pint in me having though, it would dump all my images :LOL:
 
snerkler said:
I don't think shallow DOF matters too much when panning tbh as the background is blurred anyway. Obviously if it's really shallow then the background blur may appear 'softer' but the only reason I try to keep aperture as wide as possible is to mask out the catch fencing as much as possible.

I'm not sure I'd get anything in focus if I only did a one shot pan when at 1/10 etc, I rely on the high frame rate so that hopefully at least one of the burst shots will be sharp :exit:
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Do you really Pan with that low a shutter speed? I struggle at 1/50th (at 1/125th I’m reasonable good - in my opinion!!)
 
Jelster said:
Perhaps Adobe can come up with an app that checks for the "in focus" shots :ROFLMAO: There'd be no pint in me having though, it would dump all my images :LOL:
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With a busy background, I found that focus would move (possible user error on my part). I'd love a mode where you could temporarily set front and back focus limits - useful for subjects that follow a track across the field of view.
 
goldtop said:
With a busy background, I found that focus would move (possible user error on my part). I'd love a mode where you could temporarily set front and back focus limits - useful for subjects that follow a track across the field of view.
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Put the camera in Manual focus, then use BBF (AF lock) to focus on the required mid point - this will work in manual focus as long as the lens is a Fuji lens (and still in AF mode) - then focus is locked - fire at will (the shutter!!)
 
Mr Perceptive said:
Do you really Pan with that low a shutter speed? I struggle at 1/50th (at 1/125th I’m reasonable good - in my opinion!!)
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Sometimes yeah. My go to for a high number of keepers is 1/50, 1/25 is pretty low and then 1/10 almost as rare as hen's teeth ;)
 
snerkler said:
Sometimes yeah. My go to for a high number of keepers is 1/50, 1/25 is pretty low and then 1/10 almost as rare as hen's teeth ;)
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Thanks, having glanced at quite a lot of your FoS images on Flickr they mainly were at faster shutter speeds. But if you can get results at 1/10 and 1/30 then I need to practise more :)

Going to the Oulton Park Gold Cup next weekend, probably only on the Saturday), I'll try some at slower shutter speeds.
 
Mr Perceptive said:
Going to the Oulton Park Gold Cup next weekend, probably only on the Saturday), I'll try some at slower shutter speeds.
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I was thinking about this event but I haven't been to Oulton for donkeys years, any suggestions on trackside locations for shooting?
 
Mr Perceptive said:
Thanks, having glanced at quite a lot of your FoS images on Flickr they mainly were at faster shutter speeds. But if you can get results at 1/10 and 1/30 then I need to practise more :)

Going to the Oulton Park Gold Cup next weekend, probably only on the Saturday), I'll try some at slower shutter speeds.
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Yeah at Goodwood you got one chance so I was shooting between 1/100 - 1/200 a lot of the time to guarantee I got the shot. When at a circuit you have many laps to get a specific car so it doesn't matter if you miss on some of the laps (y) I did shoot a few at FoS at 1/30 (Ferrari Dino 246s) and 1/50 (E30 M3)

Oulton Park's a great track, I actually got one of my favourite shots there (y)
 
Mr Bastable said:
I was thinking about this event but I haven't been to Oulton for donkeys years, any suggestions on trackside locations for shooting?
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Few years since I went but there was fence free viewing on the inside of Druids, along the pit straight, Knickerbrook, and Cascades.
 
snerkler said:
Few years since I went but there was fence free viewing on the inside of Druids, along the pit straight, Knickerbrook, and Cascades.
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Its 4 miles from my house, most of the infield is fence free, you can get close to the action see here

https://www.talkphotography.co.uk/threads/digital-medium-format-thread.699936/post-9172559 and a further post a couple down.

Mr Bastable said:
I was thinking about this event but I haven't been to Oulton for donkeys years, any suggestions on trackside locations for shooting?
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If you going on the Saturday them PM me, @snerkler lers suggestions are good, but I also like the inside of Lodge - it all depends on the focal length of your lenses as to where is best.
 
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Mr Perceptive said:
Its 4 miles from my house, most of the infield is fence free, you can get close to the action see here

https://www.talkphotography.co.uk/threads/digital-medium-format-thread.699936/post-9172559 and a further post a couple down.



If you going on the Saturday them PM me, @Snerlers suggestions are good, but I also like the inside of Lodge - it all depends on the focal length of your lenses as to where is best.
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I’d be there all the time if I lived that close ;)
 
Mr Perceptive said:
When the X-T2 was launched I went to Oulton Park to try out the tracking, shot 900 shots in the first hour RAW+JPG (on a single battery!), the guy who I was with shot 1200 JPG in the same time. I culled my 900 down to 3, it wasn't that they were out of focus, they were just not what I wanted! I actually think, that pre-focus and single shot is probably the way to go! With motorsport and panning you are fixing the shutter speed, and with good light you often end up with quite a small aperture - F11/F16 so you actually have a good DOF so with careful pre-focus teh subject shoulod be in focus, if its not sharp its your panning technique. I'm going back in a weeks time (as long as its not pouring with rain) and I might try a ND filter to see if I can pan with a shallower depth of field - out of interest more than artistic merit!
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Reminds me of when i was shooting Superkies I was stood next to some chap at Silverstone MotoGP on one of the practice days and every bike that was coming past he was rattling of several shots and he said he usually took approx 8,000 - 10,000 shots a day, times that by 3 over the weekend. And that was 8 or 9 years ago when 6fps was the norm dread to think how many he would take these days.
 
Couple grabs from this mornings dog walk
X-H2S & 150-600

1
ISO 3200
Raw conversion by Iridient
No Crop
Noise reduction Imagenomic Noiseware
Bluey by Trevor, on Flickr

2
ISO 160
No crop
Resting by Trevor, on Flickr

3
This taken using the Pre Shot mode on the X-H2S
ISO 2500
Crop
Noise reduction Imagenomic Noiseware
Take off-3 by Trevor, on Flickr
 
jimmyjamjojo said:
Trying something a little different - I have an X-T1 sitting doing nothing and was considering converting it to infrared. Before I commit, I've borrowed an infrared converted Xpro1 for some testing. Lenses are finicky when using IR, and my usual 18-55mm is unsuitable. I pinched the XC 16-55mm from my girlfriends setup and while it's better for IR, it's pretty poor in general.

I'll be looking for an 18-135mm, since they're considered pretty good both in general, and for IR.

Either way, despite it's issues, I quite like this as a first result -

Infrared Test by jimmyjamjoejoe, on Flickr
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Thomas Heaton has a lot to answer for, as I am now looking into this too. Love the picture!
 
Would be tempted by the X-H2S but £2500 for a crop sensor is getting silly i think. Look forward to having one a few years down the line though.
 
fujilover said:
Would be tempted by the X-H2S but £2500 for a crop sensor is getting silly i think. Look forward to having one a few years down the line though.
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Yes it’s a LOT of cash. Bloody super though.
 
fujilover said:
Would be tempted by the X-H2S but £2500 for a crop sensor is getting silly i think. Look forward to having one a few years down the line though.
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I went to an X-HS2 Touch and Try day yesterday, and I have to agree with @trevorbray that it is very impressive.

It is the first Fuji camera that can actually track properly and very quickly, the eye-AF is mindblowing, and very impressive in the way that it handles different sized faces, ie people close and peple quite a distance away. It feels really nice in the hand, I'm not a fan of some of the controls and definitely not of the rear screen, in an L-bracket on a tripod these flippy screens are a PITA. the AF was very speedy even with older Fuji glass.

The price is very difficult to get over, but I suspect that a lot of the 'surcharge' is in tyhe stacked sensor/processor technology.

If you are an existing Fuji user with lots of glass and want/need the new features then its a definite uprade, if you are looking at starting afresh with a camera system, then at this price point you have a lot of choices, but if you want a mini A1/R3/Z9 then its potentially a good choice, but if you are more stills orientated and dont need the AF performance/balckout free then you'd probably go for a FF camera from the likes of Sony/Nikon/Canon.
 
That sensor processor in an X-T2/3 body would be my ideal camera.
 
fujilover said:
Would be tempted by the X-H2S but £2500 for a crop sensor is getting silly i think. Look forward to having one a few years down the line though.
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Agreed. You are saving 200g and £1k on a GFX50. If you have the 16-55, 50-140 I can sea that it fills the gap between xt4 and GFX50. But if starting from scratch there has to be more cost effective options unless you want that light weight balance the XT range and 18-55, 55-200 gives you
 
Pretty sure I couldn't do an X-H2 justice - I have enough problems with the X-H1!!! TBH, I think I prefer the old X-T1 & 2, maybe because I'm more used to them.

On a different theme, does anyone have a full 180° fisheye for their X series body? There are times when the 10-20 just isn't wide enough and the clipped off top and bottom of 8mm lenses on crop bodies really bugs me!
 
Nod said:
On a different theme, does anyone have a full 180° fisheye for their X series body? There are times when the 10-20 just isn't wide enough and the clipped off top and bottom of 8mm lenses on crop bodies really bugs me!
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Only on my frankenstein X100 contraption!!


170819 Liverpool Museum Fisheye X100F by David Yeoman, on Flickr

I think you are going to struggle to get a full circle, this a 4.5mm C-mount Pinhole lens on an X-E1


Through The Round Window (Platform Edge) sm by David Yeoman, on Flickr
 
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I could live with a contraption, as long as it'll fit in front of one of my lenses! 10-20, 18-55 (or 135) would be the likely contenders. Retaining AF (and, more importantly, AE!) would be a bonus.
 
fujilover said:
Would be tempted by the X-H2S but £2500 for a crop sensor is getting silly i think. Look forward to having one a few years down the line though.
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Camera and lens prices are getting silly across the board imo.

The H2S probably most closely rivals the Sony A9ii which is £4200, so when you consider this the Fuji seems relatively well priced imo. It seems even better when you compare it to the OM1 which is £2k for a micro 4/3 body.
 
Nod said:
I could live with a contraption, as long as it'll fit in front of one of my lenses! 10-20, 18-55 (or 135) would be the likely contenders. Retaining AF (and, more importantly, AE!) would be a bonus.
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OK my contraption is a Jessops Semi Fisheye on the end of a WCL on an X100 - given an WCL is approx 18/19mm then if you could find one with a 58mm mount then putting it on the 18-55 would work and still give some sort of AF - mine is a 49mm one to fit on a WCL, it was £10 from eBay. There are plenty of 52mm ones about which will fit directly onto the XF18mm F2.0 lens

JbL8taIh.jpg
 
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