At a eye watering £449 the chances might be slim!Is anyone here using the ef-x500 flash?
I've had surprisingly good results printing from the T10 at 40 inches by 30. So I think unless you want to print very large indeed or have a strong interest in low light, the T1 should be enough for most people with regard to image quality.Again thanks. To me the T2 premium is too much.
Good to know, Dave. I'm still trying to get my head around exporting from LR for print and the best settings to do so.I've had surprisingly good results printing from the T10 at 40 inches by 30. So I think unless you want to print very large indeed or have a strong interest in low light, the T1 should be enough for most people with regard to image quality.
Good point, it's a bit steep. Is there a decent alternative?At a eye watering £449 the chances might be slim!
I have used the Nissin system before and they are not bad at all for the money, decent output and a nice small design, only problem at the moment is that HSS isn't working on the Fuji bodies yet. It is coming apparently and its down to Fuji to provide a firmware upgrade for the Nissin's to work.Good point, it's a bit steep. Is there a decent alternative?
Yes. But I've done very little with Fuji JPEGs, so I can't say whether it would have made a difference.Good to know, Dave. I'm still trying to get my head around exporting from LR for print and the best settings to do so.
I assume you were editing RAW files for that size rather than SOOC JPEGs?
its down to Fuji to provide a firmware upgrade for the Nissin's to work.
Just thought this young lady was worth a shot...
Just recently joined the Fuji club with an X-E1 and love the jpegs SOOC. Maybe upgrade in the not too distant future and wondered if the X-T1 was a big improvement for focussing over the X-E1. That refuses to focus in low light.
Any X-T1 uses also use the X-T10 too? Is the X-T1 that much better with them both having the same sensor etc? Both seem a bit of a bargain at the moment.
In terms of performance they're about the same. The XT1 has a bigger and better viewfinder, has more dials, and weather sealed. As a result it's bigger and heavier. I actually prefer the control dials of the XT10 though, the ones on the XT1 are slightly too recessed imo.Just recently joined the Fuji club with an X-E1 and love the jpegs SOOC. Maybe upgrade in the not too distant future and wondered if the X-T1 was a big improvement for focussing over the X-E1. That refuses to focus in low light.
Any X-T1 uses also use the X-T10 too? Is the X-T1 that much better with them both having the same sensor etc? Both seem a bit of a bargain at the moment.
I don't quite understand why Fuji should bother writing their firmware so a competitor's products work on their bodies. It seems a bit like Mercedes having to make engine mounts so people can fit Ford engines to their C Classes! IMO Nissin should cough up to Fuji for the source code (or equivalent) so their flashes work with Fujis rather than the other way round.
In terms of performance they're about the same. The XT1 has a bigger and better viewfinder, has more dials, and weather sealed. As a result it's bigger and heavier. I actually prefer the control dials of the XT10 though, the ones on the XT1 are slightly too recessed imo.
I meant the control dials on the front/back not the ones on top for ISO etc. I must admit, I am going to miss having those dials on topNot having an ISO dial would bug me. It's the first thing I noticed missing when I got the Xpro-1, but that's fine because I'm leaving that one in auto-ISO. Any main body I use, I need that ISO dial! Just too used to it
Good stuff George.Some of you folk may find this intereting, these notes are not mine but copied from a friends post in another forum.
I updated one of my X-T1 bodies to FW 5.01, left the second at FW 5.00, and then made comparisons. I do not claim the tests are comprehensive and hope others will add test results.
1. In 5.01, it's now possible to use either command dial to step through menus, both the main menus (shooting, playback, setup), and Q Menu settings. Both command dials appear to have identical functionality in this respect.
2. In 5.00, the above functionality is restricted to the rear command dial.
3. In both 5.00 and 5.01, front command dial functionality regarding shutter speed changes (T setting), program shift, and several other actions are identical.
4. "Improved flash functionality" is not immediately evident. I tested both bodies (FW 5.00 and 5.01) with different lenses, the same lenses, the supplied flash (EF-X8), Nissin gear (i40, i60A, and Air 1), etc. This got confusing at times because the range of possible settings is large. In all cases, FW 5.00 and 5.01 appear identical with respect to flash functionality. Note that I have no Fuji-branded units including the EF-X500, so no tests there.
George.
And why not it's a lovely conversion.
Have you tried increasing the ISO ? Seen that mentioned before on the X-E1 in low light / focus issues.Just recently joined the Fuji club with an X-E1 and love the jpegs SOOC. Maybe upgrade in the not too distant future and wondered if the X-T1 was a big improvement for focussing over the X-E1. That refuses to focus in low light.
Any X-T1 uses also use the X-T10 too? Is the X-T1 that much better with them both having the same sensor etc? Both seem a bit of a bargain at the moment.
Just thought this young lady was worth a shot while I was out & about. This is quite a considerable crop, so not the best quality as I was at the 18mm end of the lens and didn't have time to zoom in before other folk got in the way.
X-T1, 18-55mm Lens, 1/1000th @ F5.6, ISO-200, Handheld.
Pretty Lady (1)-03051 by G.K.Jnr., on Flickr
for looking.,
George.
"Is that guy really lying on the ground taking a picture of me?"
Yes, tried everything. I think it's because it uses contrast detection for focusing and so needs high contrast to be able to obtain focus, something there is very little of on dimly lit situations.Have you tried increasing the ISO ? Seen that mentioned before on the X-E1 in low light / focus issues.
Here's that 100% crop I mentioned. I thought the 18-55 zoom did rather well with the droplets of water on the cygnet's feathers...
View attachment 93582
The 18-55mm is probably the best so called "kit lens" I've used in terms of IQ. I'd say it's probably (bear in mind I've never done side by side comparisons) better than the Olympus 12-40mm f2.8 and Sony 16-50mm f2.8 I've had which are considerably more expensive. Obviously they're weather sealed though.Isn't the 18-55 the "kit" lens, that's a hell of a lot of detail (granted viewing on a phone).
Would it be possible to get the raw and copy the processing and do a comparison?
You have to stick to just Lightroom though to make it easy
Thanks for looking into this though, essentially if that's as good as it appears at first glance then that workflow is the equivalent of a couple of hundred quid of lens upgrade
Not at all. The only problem is that there are a lot of parameters you can set, and currently no way to see the result other than trial and error (I guess this may eventually be improved). But once you have the setting you like, you just set it as a LR plugin, choose "Edit in...X-transformer (or whatever you called it)" and after confirming you want to work from the RAW, a TIF file that is actually a DNG in disguise appears in the same folder. That's assuming you set it up to use the same folder, of course. You can also control renaming etc. I find it convenient to do this as the first step in processing, but it's no great bother to sync settings from the RAF if needed. The only thing I've noticed is that the TIF/DNG seems to be a touch warmer in WB and I don't know why. It's not really a problem for me, but may trouble some people.Looks really good Dave. Is it much of a hassle to use over sticking to LR only?
It's not that big a deal. As Toby @snerkler says, the "kit" lens is very good indeed. The improvement is visible in the fine detail even if you don't do any sharpening, but it's subtle. I would say that the sharpening algorithm is also better than LR, however. Even trying such things as the Detail = 100 approach. Recently I've had decent results skipping LR sharpening altogether and just doing a final sharpen in PS with Nik, but I think this approach yields small improvements over that. It's probably not that interesting if you don't want to print large, but if you do, it seems like 35 quid well spent!Isn't the 18-55 the "kit" lens, that's a hell of a lot of detail (granted viewing on a phone).
Would it be possible to get the raw and copy the processing and do a comparison?
You have to stick to just Lightroom though to make it easy
Thanks for looking into this though, essentially if that's as good as it appears at first glance then that workflow is the equivalent of a couple of hundred quid of lens upgrade
Isn't it already IN Lightroom though if it's a plug in? I'm so confused hahaNot at all. The only problem is that there are a lot of parameters you can set, and currently no way to see the result other than trial and error (I guess this may eventually be improved). But once you have the setting you like, you just set it as a LR plugin, choose "Edit in...X-transformer (or whatever you called it)" and after confirming you want to work from the RAW, a TIF file that is actually a DNG in disguise appears in the same folder. That's assuming you set it up to use the same folder, of course. You can also control renaming etc. I find it convenient to do this as the first step in processing, but it's no great bother to sync settings from the RAF if needed. The only thing I've noticed is that the TIF/DNG seems to be a touch warmer in WB and I don't know why. It's not really a problem for me, but may trouble some people.
My first picture processed with the X-Transformer plugin (yes, I bought it). I'm finding I only want to convert at Low sharpening, and then add more selectively later with Nik Output Sharpener, as Default can be a bit much in the out of focus areas, but I'm pretty impressed with the detail it's pulling out. I'll post a 100% crop in a mo.
Swans in Christ Church Meadow by David Hallett, on Flickr
Thanks George! Very kind as everThat's very nice Sir, good comp, well exposed, with bags of detail.
George.
Does this help? https://www.aevansphoto.com/ixt-lightroom-plugin/Isn't it already IN Lightroom though if it's a plug in? I'm so confused haha
The 18-55mm is probably the best so called "kit lens" I've used in terms of IQ. I'd say it's probably (bear in mind I've never done side by side comparisons) than the Olympus 12-40mm f2.8 and Sony 16-50mm f2.8 I've had which are considerably more expensive. Obviously they're weather sealed though.
I've not used it so can't comment. I've heard it's very good. I have the 24-120mm f4 which is very good and I've heard the 16-80 is pretty similar.I would throw the Nikon 16-80 into he mix. Very useful range, and my copy is sharp.