Tutorial The ultimate HDR method (Photoshop CC only)

Pookeyhead

Pookeyhead

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Pookeyhead submitted a new resource:

Amended March 2016 with updated version


Note: (April '16) The Latest release of Photoshop CC has a bug that prevents this from working - Hang in there while Adobe Fix this

http://www.david-gregory.co.uk/HDR_IN_CC.pdf

By far and away the best way to create believable, non-cheesy HDR images.. Genuine HDR.. images that look contempletely natural.. but simply have an awesome dynamic range. However.. this is for Photoshop CC only. CS6 or earlier does NOT support this method.

http://www.david-gregory.co.uk/HDR_IN_CC.pdf in Photoshop CC.pdf

Read all of it.. PROPERLY... do not skip anything, as you may miss very important steps.
Click to expand...

Read more about this resource...
 
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@posiview

TP abridged the link... doesn't like gaps in names for some reason. Should work now.
 
Thanks David,

have tried this but CC doesn't open as a smart object, even though enabled in ACR.
 
David, followed it step by step. All seems ok just doesn't open in cc as a camera raw smart filter for some reason.
 
If it's not using ACR then this technique will not work. You're using raw files, yes?
 
Using NEF files from D610. Followed every stage......opens up as a 32 bit file, but CC doesn't open it up as an ace smart filter. Very strange indeed.
 
Are you selecting "Don't Merge" when converting from 32 to 16bit?
 
Working now - had to reinstall - think updates had something to do with it.
Great method by the way - just need a sunset and a nice location ;)
 
That is an excellent tutorial Thanks.
I have even printed it out, which is rare for me.

Up to now I have used Tufuse Pro which is far more realistic than normal HDR efforts. But your method is far more controllable and works with the full bit depth through the process. (Tufuse also covers focus fusion.)

I wonder when cameras and sensors will have the capability to work natively in 32bit. A big ask I know, but it must be down the line somewhen.
I can not see it ever being a "Domestic" requirement, but it would certainly provide some clear air at the professional level. Or those prepared to put some effort into their processing.
 
NeilA1975 said:
Working now - had to reinstall - think updates had something to do with it.
Great method by the way - just need a sunset and a nice location ;)
Click to expand...


Glad it is now working for you. Since the release of CC HDR now has a real purpose beyond a special effect, and I can now use it without fear of all the artefacts and problems associated with traditional tonemapping. HDR has come of age with Photosop CC, and is now a viable, and very real method of genuine HDR production without the cheese factor.
 
Terrywoodenpic said:
That is an excellent tutorial Thanks.
Click to expand...

You're very welcome.



Terrywoodenpic said:
I wonder when cameras and sensors will have the capability to work natively in 32bit. A big ask I know, but it must be down the line somewhen.
Click to expand...


Don't forget monitors. Without the ability to "see" 32bit, it's all for nothing, which is why the method I've put together here only uses 32bit to create the raw HDR set... and then uses 16bit to actually process the file aesthetically, and even that is pushing it a bit as even the best screens and workstations can only really utilise 10bit visually.
 
Just had a go at this, and have to say im very impressed with the output from following these steps. Thanks again for posting (y)
 
Pookeyhead said:
You're very welcome.
Don't forget monitors. Without the ability to "see" 32bit, it's all for nothing, which is why the method I've put together here only uses 32bit to create the raw HDR set... and then uses 16bit to actually process the file aesthetically, and even that is pushing it a bit as even the best screens and workstations can only really utilise 10bit visually.
Click to expand...

For 32bit to arrive in cameras, I suspect Professional monitors will be "switchable" to 16 bit. Which is more on a par with what our vision is capable of defining at screen level.
Then just like your "Smart filter" process, the raw processor could work (and maintain the file) in 32bit but display in 16 bit.
Perhaps it is just a pipe dream.
 
You're welcome.
 
Very impressed David.
Just went over some bracketed shots of Herringfleet taken on a frosty January morning - very pleasing results.
I can honestly say that I don't think i'll ever go back to the fiddly world of luminance masking after using this.
Fantastic.
 
NeilA1975 said:
I can honestly say that I don't think i'll ever go back to the fiddly world of luminance masking after using this.
Fantastic.
Click to expand...

There seems little point really, I agree.

Glad you found it helpful.
 
Thanks David. I've followed a couple of your tutorials now and I must say your students are very lucky.
 
Cheers for the in depth tutorial David. I will be sure to try this sometime soon.

You had to get your Mustang in there though didn't you.......b*****d (car envious) :D
 
A bit late to the party, I've just found this while looking for something else, as you do!

Very impressed though, and definitely something I will be trying in the not too distant future, thank you for writing and posting the tutorial.
 
Cheers.
 
Looks good, downloaded and will give it a try, thanks :)
 
I have been pretty impressed with the CC version of HDR - doing it from LR is particularly convenient.

However, even if you don't have the most recent version, you can still get most of these results. Just use your favourite HDR program (I used to use Photomatix) but stop before you get to tonemapping, and instead export your image as a 32-bit TIF (no other format works, last I looked). You can then import this into LR and use all the usual controls to get the best out of it, with no haloing or other horrors unless you go crazy with the Clarity slider. If you don't quite follow what I mean, there's a guy out there called Captain Photo (Keith Cuddeback) who has some more detailed instructions. Google him. This isn't perfect - I find Photomatix, for example, still does odd things to yellows at times - so nowadays I use CC in preference. But if you only have LR 4 or 5, and want HDR without the halos, it's worth your attention.

Edit: Captain Photo, not Captain Kimo. My bad!
http://www.essenceinphotography.com/beginning-your-journey-to-perfect-hdr-photography/
 
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This looks great, will be giving it a try at some point :)

Out of interest, what kind of computing power do you need to do something like this? 32-bit files sound rather fruity!
 
Nawty said:
This looks great, will be giving it a try at some point :)

Out of interest, what kind of computing power do you need to do something like this? 32-bit files sound rather fruity!
Click to expand...


Depends on resolution of image, but most PCs or Macs within the past 5 years should cope. If you have 8GB or less of memory though, it may be slow as it pages to the hard drive, but it's not a big deal.
 
Agreed. More memory is always helpful, but there's really no minimum entry bar. Just shorter waiting times with faster kit.
 
Just stumbled upon this thread, thanks David, much appreciated as anything that will improve my PP skills is most welcome.
 
Had a few goes at this today and confess to being quite impressed ... a bit of a shock after converting back to 16-bit and seeing how flat/grey the image looks but taking it back into ACR does allow a good deal of adjustment. The resultant file lends itself to far more 'improvement' of all sorts than does the typical HDR conversion via Photomatix Pro, for example.
 
gramps said:
Had a few goes at this today and confess to being quite impressed ... a bit of a shock after converting back to 16-bit and seeing how flat/grey the image looks but taking it back into ACR does allow a good deal of adjustment. The resultant file lends itself to far more 'improvement' of all sorts than does the typical HDR conversion via Photomatix Pro, for example.
Click to expand...


Since the latest PS update, you can actually do ALL adjustment in 32 bit, export into PS as a Tiff, and convert to 16bit in PS to get better results. I'll amend the tutorial accordingly later.
 
OK.. tutorial updated with a much better method that better retains tonal mapping in 16bit.

If you have downloaded the original, please delete and re-download this version.
 
That works well thanks ... why are we now choosing to 'Merge' instead of 'Do Not Merge' as before?
 
gramps said:
That works well thanks ... why are we now choosing to 'Merge' instead of 'Do Not Merge' as before?
Click to expand...


Since the latest PS update, it seems to remap the tonal range much better than not merging for some reason (if you select exposure & gamma as the method). So long as you've saved a version of the 32bit smart object, you've still got the ability to re-do things.
 
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