thinking of selling my fuji set-up for an olympus set up

mrjames

mrjames

Suspended / Banned
Messages
1,240
Edit My Images
Yes
I shoot professionally with 2 canon slr's

and I recently bought a fuji x-e1 to use as a travel camera, and slowly integrated it into my pro work too (with not so great results). I only have the 18mm f2 lens, and although it's nice it doesn't really give me anything that's not covered with my slr's, so there's no point bringing it to jobs with me

so I was thinking of getting some exotic lenses for it, to let me take some different shots but without the huge weight penalty of taking a full frame DSLR lens

I was thinking of getting the samyang fisheye for the fuji, for when I need to get a little bit wider than 16mm on full frame (I would 'defish' the fisheye) and also for times when the fisheye effect would be desired
I was also thinking of getting the 10-24 OIS zoom or even just the cheap 16-50 OIS for times when I want to do a long exposure hand held shot to blur motion without a tripod (I love my 16-35 2.8 but can only hand hold at 1/15, would like to handhold at 1/8 or 1/4 to get slight motion blur)
I would like the wider lens as i'm sure it has better image quality, but it's £700!

so then I started thinking about cameras with in body stabilization- which I think olympus is the best at?
but olympus lenses don't seem cheap either- but with in body IS I could use any manual focus/off brand lenses and still get IS


so basically my question is this- do I invest in new lenses for the fuji system (the fish eye and the stabilized zoom) or do I get a camera with built in IS that means I can use any lens and have it stabilized

as the camera will stay in the bag most of the time and will only come out for specialist shots I don't mind if it's slightly awkward to use, as long as the image quality is there (at least as good as fuji) i'd be happy to use it (but would be nice if the EVF was better than the x-e1!), but if I end up liking it I might use it for street shooting etc or a travel camera, but to be honest I've hardly used the fuji


ideal cost would be around £350-400 for a camera and lens- which is what I paid for the x-e1 and 18mm
 
Last edited:
Fuji has better image quality IMO, Olympus has better AF and IBIS. For that cash you will get a EPL5 (no EVF) and the zoom kit lenses or a decent prime (14, 20, 45). I use both systems.

Your budget doesnt allow for an Olympus camera with EVF and a lens.
 
Last edited:
So logically you could spent £800ish on a Fuji 10-24, or £800 ish on a Panasonic 7-14mm and have to buy a body to use it on?

I think you'd be mad to trade down to m4/3 from Fuji X, and I say that as someone who loves m4/3.
 
Alan Clogwyn said:
So logically you could spent £800ish on a Fuji 10-24, or £800 ish on a Panasonic 7-14mm and have to buy a body to use it on?

I think you'd be mad to trade down to m4/3 from Fuji X, and I say that as someone who loves m4/3.
Click to expand...

Im a little confused by budget tbh, talking about hundreds of pounds worth of lenses but then saying budget is 350-400 for camera and a lens. :confused:
 
Last edited:
Pick up a cheap X-A1 with 16-50mm stabilised lens and free 55-230mm lens for £360. Sell the long zoom for £180, sell the camera for £130 and you have a 16-50mm lens for £50. Job done.

That said, I've never managed to hand hold at 1/4 second and get sharp results with any stabilised system. Maybe I pixel peep too much, or maybe physics make it very difficult?
 
juggler said:
Do you need the extra stops the stability will give you? The Oly IBIS is great but of course of little help with moving subjects.
Click to expand...
twist said:
Fuji has better image quality IMO, Olympus has better AF and IBIS. For that cash you will get a EPL5 (no EVF) and the zoom kit lenses or a decent prime (14, 20, 45). I use both systems.

Your budget doesnt allow for an Olympus camera with EVF and a lens.
Click to expand...

see the attached picture for an example of what i'm trying to do- it's hard to see in the picture as it's been so badly compressed during upload but it's basically just sharp focus on the background with deep depth of field, but the figures have motion blur

I need the extra stops of hand-hold-ability the IS will get me just so I can use shutter speeds at around 1/4th- aperture of the lens is not important, i'll probably be at f8 or higher anyway, and AF speed is no issue as i'll find my spot, pre-focus and wait for the right moment to shoot
all i'm after is a camera/lens than can hand hold at slow speeds- I will use it in shutter priority set to whatever shutter speed I like to get the motion blur I want, and then the aperture will figure itself out- ISO will be pretty low as slow shutter speed will let in a lot of light

see the attached picture for an example of what i'm trying to do
I'm actually succeeding in doing it using a tamron 24-70- but I'm like 90% sure i'm done with that lens and going to sell it as the af just isn't working well with the 5d3, and was going to replace it with a canon 24-70 for reliable focus performance- but would of course be giving up IS so was looking for a cheap way to get those slow shots that I have grown to like
if I go to an assignment and take 400 shots, 395 of them will be with the canon slr, the extra 5 'creative shots' will be with this setup
if the quality really needs to be there, for say, a commercial advertising shoot then i'll probably use a tripod and the SLR, but for events and such where the images are just to be used online or in small print publications I'll use the mirrorless

I suppose I could just keep the tamron lens and use that for the long exposure stuff! although it's heavy and gratuitous to bring 2 24-70 lenses with me but it would probably weigh about the same as a mirror less camera and lens, and I could keep the tamron lens for video work...actually might end up doing that...the more I think about it the more this seems to make sense- maybe i'll not even bother with the canon 24-70 either, I was never convinced with the 24-70 range, preferring the 16-35 and 70-200 ranges (which I shoot on 2 bodies anyway- so would just switch lenses when wanting to make the slow shots

i contemplated the 16-35 IS too, but just can't see myself dropping from 2.8 to f4 for one of my most used lenses


if i'm convinced by something then the budget will stretch- but as an experiment £400 is my limit



Alan Clogwyn said:
So logically you could spent £800ish on a Fuji 10-24, or £800 ish on a Panasonic 7-14mm and have to buy a body to use it on?

I think you'd be mad to trade down to m4/3 from Fuji X, and I say that as someone who loves m4/3.
Click to expand...

I underestimated the cost of 4/3 lenses, I thought that they'd be much cheaper actually.


juggler said:
Is weatherproofing important to you? The E-M5 is sealed (with some lenses), the X-E1 isn't.
Click to expand...

not really, it will literally come out the bag, take the shot, then go back in the bag and will go back to using the 5d3's, even shooting outdoors in the rain i'm sure 5 seconds of drizzle would be ok, i'd just keep it under my coat while waiting for the shot


twist said:
Im a little confused by budget tbh, talking about hundreds of pounds worth of lenses but then saying budget is 350-400 for camera and a lens. :confused:
Click to expand...

yes- the truth is I could stretch the budget to cover anything, but it would take selling some other equipment etc, so could do it but don't want to make the wrong decision and sell something I then really miss- I have a big big commission in august, for a whole month- so either need to have something sorted by then or stick with what I have- because come august i'll be moving cities for a long assignment and will be living out my camera bag for a month- which makes weight really really important, as want to have as many lenses with me as possible but also don't want to carry them all- and won't have the luxury of somewhere to leave them- anything i'm using/taking will have to fit into my shoulder bag


manualfocus-g said:
Pick up a cheap X-A1 with 16-50mm stabilised lens and free 55-230mm lens for £360. Sell the long zoom for £180, sell the camera for £130 and you have a 16-50mm lens for £50. Job done.

That said, I've never managed to hand hold at 1/4 second and get sharp results with any stabilised system. Maybe I pixel peep too much, or maybe physics make it very difficult?
Click to expand...

that's a brilliant idea

I can reliably get sharp shots at 1/4 with the tamron- perhaps the IS is exceptionally good with that lens? most of the shots in the samples I uploaded were at 0.5 seconds

see what I don't want to do is sell my tamron and buy new gear, only to find is doesn't perform as well as I expect it to
perhaps I would be wise to hold off until after my assignment, then I can experiment and there's no risk- plus i'll have been paid so budget won't be a problem at all

Mr Perceptive said:
The fish eye is so cool.....

busy_chester sm by Mr Perceptive X100, on Flickr

140621 Liver Building sm by Mr Perceptive X100, on Flickr

140621 Lime Street sm by Mr Perceptive X100, on Flickr

140621 St Georges Hall sm by Mr Perceptive X100, on Flickr
Click to expand...


is that the samyang, shots are awesome
 
Last edited:
Yes that's the Samyang 8mm on an X-E1, Chester shot is a 90 degree street junction!!! This lens is a lot of fun!!!

There's some more here https://www.flickr.com/photos/89667368@N05/sets/72157643069881253/ Get the camera low to the ground and it makes a superb wide angle lens. Also if you process in LR using the Nikon 10.5 Fisheye profile, it straightens everything up!!

From This...

140520 Chicheley Hall sm by Mr Perceptive X100, on Flickr

To This!! Slightly different processing but you get the idea....

140520 Chicheley Hall 2 sm by Mr Perceptive X100, on Flickr
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top