To buy a 7D2 or upgrade to better lenses

What should I do

  • Additional APSC body (7D2)

    Votes: 1 10.0%

  • Upgrade to 120-300 with TC

    Votes: 5 50.0%

  • Upgrade to other lens (please elaborate below)

    Votes: 2 20.0%

  • Stay as I am and improve PP skills

    Votes: 2 20.0%
  • Total voters
    10
Thanks for ye tips, I have started to use my monopod (Giottos mml3290b) at lot more, however it has mainly been as a support to help balance and keep the VF steady. One thing that has come from this is that I need to experiment and push the boundaries more, because even on my monopod I tend to stick at a max speed of 1/500, due to wanting to reduce the risk of any subject motion blur, however as the squirrel was stationary this probably is overkill. With regards to OS is it best to leave it on with a monopod? Because I've heard somewhere that the lenses tend to be sharper with it switched off. With regards to a tripod I tend to incorporate walking with my photography, which whilst it may be more stable, by the time I got set up I would probably have missed the shot.
 
ChrisHeathcote said:
Thanks for ye tips, I have started to use my monopod (Giottos mml3290b) at lot more, however it has mainly been as a support to help balance and keep the VF steady. One thing that has come from this is that I need to experiment and push the boundaries more, because even on my monopod I tend to stick at a max speed of 1/500, due to wanting to reduce the risk of any subject motion blur, however as the squirrel was stationary this probably is overkill. With regards to OS is it best to leave it on with a monopod? Because I've heard somewhere that the lenses tend to be sharper with it switched off. With regards to a tripod I tend to incorporate walking with my photography, which whilst it may be more stable, by the time I got set up I would probably have missed the shot.
Click to expand...

....Squirrels tend to stay more still than birds, which hardly stay still at all unless a Heron. Is "OS" the same as Canon's IS (Image Stabilisation)? - What happens is that when IS/OS is switched on it always seeks to compensate any movement but when on a tripod, or even resting on a bean bag etc, it will continue to seek stability and move the image around. Try it out while looking through the viewfinder and you'll see. So, to stop the lens unnecessarily seeking stability when rigid on a tripod, switch off the IS/OS.

On my monopod I have only used my Canon 400mm F/5.6L which doesn't have IS, so I can't advise you whether it's best to switch IS on or off on a monopod but guess that as there will always be a little movement on a monopod, perhaps switch it off. I need to try it out.
 
Use OS/IS with a monopod. Simple rule of thumb, if you have a hand on the camera, use image stabilisation, even on a tripod. With long lenses, image stabilisation also helps with accurate framing, and that can assist focusing accuracy too if it helps keep the centre AF point nailed.
 
That's an interesting comment Richard as recognised wisdom is to turn IS off although I believe on the very latest lenses it can detect when its on a tripod. I usually switch mine off on a tripod but have also shot for several hours with it on and found no difference to the images produced.
 
HoppyUK said:
Use OS/IS with a monopod. Simple rule of thumb, if you have a hand on the camera, use image stabilisation, even on a tripod. With long lenses, image stabilisation also helps with accurate framing, and that can assist focusing accuracy too if it helps keep the centre AF point nailed.
Click to expand...

Gaz J said:
That's an interesting comment Richard as recognised wisdom is to turn IS off although I believe on the very latest lenses it can detect when its on a tripod. I usually switch mine off on a tripod but have also shot for several hours with it on and found no difference to the images produced.
Click to expand...

Normally keep my IS switched on for my longer lenses like the 500mm
 
Gaz J said:
That's an interesting comment Richard as recognised wisdom is to turn IS off although I believe on the very latest lenses it can detect when its on a tripod. I usually switch mine off on a tripod but have also shot for several hours with it on and found no difference to the images produced.
Click to expand...

With a monopod, always keep IS on. Same when using a gimbal on a tripod, if you are holding the camera. Otherwise on a tripod, generally turn IS off. I do this even with lenses that have tripod-sensing. It's kind of the difference between putting the car in neutral with the handbrake on at traffic lights, as opposed to just dipping the clutch.

But with long lenses I often have IS on even with a tripod and no hand on the camera, unless it's a totally still day. Simple test - switch to live view and 10x magnification and there's a good chance there will be some image movement visible. Then switch on IS and see if there's an improvement.

<waits for someone to post contrary Thom Hogan link :D>
 
For close-up shooting on a Macro lens I prefer to switch IS Off and to adjust focus manually in an enlarged view on LiveView. I then shoot with a cable release. If I leave IS On the viewed image moves around as if you were on a cross channel ferry on a rough day.

Why would Canon advise switching off IS when on tripod? And why would Canon bother making some lenses detect a tripod and automatically switch IS off if there wasn't good reason?
 
Just a couple of personal observations on lens's
The 70-200 2.8 is II will blow the socks off the MkI

The 100-400 4.5-5.6 is a very usable lens
but not as sharp as the 400 prime at the long end.
The 300 f/4 is sharp enough to cut your self on, even wide open
It takes a 1.4 tc well too, but no so much the x2 TC

Just my opinion of course.

The 70-300L seems to be sharper than the 100-400
even at the long end with a 1.4 ( I've not tried this one, but there are a few examples around TP)
 
Last edited:
RedRobin said:
For close-up shooting on a Macro lens I prefer to switch IS Off and to adjust focus manually in an enlarged view on LiveView. I then shoot with a cable release. If I leave IS On the viewed image moves around as if you were on a cross channel ferry on a rough day.

Why would Canon advise switching off IS when on tripod? And why would Canon bother making some lenses detect a tripod and automatically switch IS off if there wasn't good reason?
Click to expand...

The problem is, when there is no movement the IS builds up feedback within the electronics and that can create false movement of its own. Some older lenses, like Canon 100-400L and 300/4L are notorious for it, though most modern lenses are much better.

The only point I would make about tripod use is it doesn't guarantee a perfectly still camera, eg long lens and a bit of wind. So sometimes, IS is beneficial on a tripod too.
 
HoppyUK said:
The problem is, when there is no movement the IS builds up feedback within the electronics and that can create false movement of its own. Some older lenses, like Canon 100-400L and 300/4L are notorious for it, though most modern lenses are much better.
Click to expand...

....I've got a 300/4L (probably my most used lens) and haven't noticed any strange behaviour so far I'm glad to say.

HoppyUK said:
The only point I would make about tripod use is it doesn't guarantee a perfectly still camera, eg long lens and a bit of wind. So sometimes, IS is beneficial on a tripod too.
Click to expand...

....Good point. My tripod is a Manfrotto lightweight carbon one and is mostly used without full leg extensions but there can be movement/flex in some circumstances.

Thanks for the info and tips :)
 
RedRobin said:
....I've got a 300/4L (probably my most used lens) and haven't noticed any strange behaviour so far I'm glad to say.
Click to expand...

With that lens, and the 100-400L using Canon's first generation IS dating back to the late 1990s, if you put them on a static tripod in magnified live view with IS on, the image will drift around quite alarmingly. Only significant with long exposures though.

....Good point. My tripod is a Manfrotto lightweight carbon one and is mostly used without full leg extensions but there can be movement/flex in some circumstances.

Thanks for the info and tips :)
Click to expand...

In blustery conditions, even the beefiest tripod will not hold a long lens absolutely still. Nothing like it actually. I was using the new Tamron 150-600 recently and removing the lens hood made a big difference - it was catching the breeze like a sail.
 
I wondered how long it would be before someone posted this. Tell us something new eg Sony sensors are better than canons in dynamic range blah blah. I'm sure that for some people all that matters is poring over DXO to find the best sensor out there and buying that camera.

The rest of us prefer to buy a camera based on overall ability. One that actually focuses on what you want when you want, that can be customised to improve its handling etc.

I wouldn't have that Sony if you gave it to me even if it scored 100. As far as I'm concerned its only good for a doorstop.
 
Ok but what about the rest of the package, it only has 19 point AF (only 11 are cross type), focuses down to -1. ISO Max's at 16000. The other part to consider is the lenses, now I'm not sure what songs are like to use, but because of Canons place in the market, there will be a lot more choice of second hand. Not to mention the quality of Canon lenses. I think I'll be staying loyal to Canon
 
Gaz J said:
I wondered how long it would be before someone posted this. Tell us something new eg Sony sensors are better than canons in dynamic range blah blah. I'm sure that for some people all that matters is poring over DXO to find the best sensor out there and buying that camera.

The rest of us prefer to buy a camera based on overall ability. One that actually focuses on what you want when you want, that can be customised to improve its handling etc.

I wouldn't have that Sony if you gave it to me even if it scored 100. As far as I'm concerned its only good for a doorstop.
Click to expand...

....Hear! Hear!! :)

A camera is an extension of yourself, or at least it should feel that way. Personally I really dislike Sony offerings and sold mine - I couldn't get on with the lack of tactile feel (handling) and clunky interface - I missed so many shots with it.
 
ChrisHeathcote said:
The other part to consider is the lenses, now I'm not sure what songs are like to use, but because of Canons place in the market, there will be a lot more choice of second hand. Not to mention the quality of Canon lenses. I think I'll be staying loyal to Canon
Click to expand...

....I have bought all four of my Canon L lenses second hand, here on TP Classifieds. Well, I lie, because one of them (70-200mm F/4L IS) was the seller's insurance replacement and was brand new, boxed, and unused!
 
Sony make great sensors. Nikon probably add even more to the mix when they use them. I'm not a Canon at any cost man. If I was a landscape photographer I would buy a Nikon D810 for the dynamic range and noise control. But I rarely take landscapes, the vast majority is wildlife and for that I prefer the ergomonics of Canon bodies. So for top of the range sports/wildlife bodies you really have only the choice of a D4S or a 1DX. I think the 1DX is the best body for me. I'm not keen on the ergomonics of the Nikon. If the Canon was rubbish that would be a different matter, but its not, its very very good.
 
I honestly don't understand the DXO figures. If the 7D2 sensor is only about a third of a stop better than the 7D, then how come I had to apply NR on ALL images from my 7D, even at ISO 100, but only bother at 1600 and above with my 7D2? I am genuinely blown away by the lack of noise.
 
Gaz J said:
I wondered how long it would be before someone posted this. Tell us something new eg Sony sensors are better than canons in dynamic range blah blah. I'm sure that for some people all that matters is poring over DXO to find the best sensor out there and buying that camera.

The rest of us prefer to buy a camera based on overall ability. One that actually focuses on what you want when you want, that can be customised to improve its handling etc.

I wouldn't have that Sony if you gave it to me even if it scored 100. As far as I'm concerned its only good for a doorstop.
Click to expand...


When I posted it I wondered how long it would be before someone jumped on it to dismiss it as nonsense.

It's not my words, or numbers ...

Ignoring the Sony comparison, I was more surprised by the Nikon D7100 compare tbh. No matter how loyal you are to a brand, the numbers are shocking for a brand new, updated body.

That link above this post shows more how the old D300s is still relevant today, more than anything else. A 5 year old camera btw.

Don't get too hung up on it anyway, this thread isn't about the camera, it was about a choice. No point in hiding on the numbers though wither when making that decision.
 
Last edited:
Did I dismiss it as nonsense. NO. Its not shocking at all. As usual it making stats say what YOU want to say without looking any further than two digits. I'm not shocked, I don't care, I don't choose my equipment based on one part of the camera to the exclusion of all else. If you want to, rock on dude. Its your money.

Ive always acknowledged that Nikon/Sony sensors are the best but that doesnt make them the best camera for me.
 
Last edited:
Gaz J said:
Ive always acknowledged that Nikon/Sony sensors are the best but that doesnt make them the best camera for me.
Click to expand...


....Exactly! The 'best' camera is the one which you, the user, feels the most comfortable using and hence the one which gives you the most confidence. The Canon ergonomics are what do it for me, personally. Plus a few other features of course but that would be going further off-topic.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top