to uv or not to uv that is the question

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walter
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dont know if i have done the right thing, while in jessops to-day, i bought a uv filter for tele lens, explained to the guy working there that i wanted it for more definition in sky rather than have it blown, pointed me towards uv filter 20quid later i am the proud owner of a uv filter,


bit backward, i looked them up on web and they say they are not a lot of good for dslr only protection of lens,

more for film,

have i made a bloomer :thinking:
 
wallyboy said:
dont know if i have done the right thing, while in jessops to-day, i bought a uv filter for tele lens, explained to the guy working there that i wanted it for more definition in sky rather than have it blown, pointed me towards uv filter 20quid later i am the proud owner of a uv filter,

bit backward, i looked them up on web and they say they are not a lot of good for dslr only protection of lens,

more for film,

have i made a bloomer :thinking:

You've been had my friend. Uv has no impact on digital whatsoever. Apart from reducing the image quality. Take it back and demand a refund.

You need either a polariser or ND grads.
 
Sorry to say Walter but a UV ain't gonna control the sky whether you agree in principle with the use of a UV one way or other.

You really need to be looking for a Grad or possibly a Circular Polariser.
 
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You need to get back to the store and get a refund - and ensure that if you go back to that store again that you either don't get served by the same guy, or take everything he says with a pinch of salt...

My advice - get your advice here, and then use it in store...
 
Sorry to say Walter but a UV ain't gonna control the sky whether you agree in principle with the use of a UV one way or other.


You really need to be looking for a Grad or possibly a Circular Polariser.
cheers andy which would you say is the better option grad or cp

You need to get back to the store and get a refund - and ensure that if you go back to that store again that you either don't get served by the same guy, or take everything he says with a pinch of salt...

My advice - get your advice here, and then use it in store...
yes a lesson learned
 
Both have different uses. A polariser cuts reflections, saturates blues and makes clouds pop. ND grads level up the difference in exposure between a bright sky and darker foreground.
 
cheers andy which would you say is the better option grad or cp

hmmm..A polariser's maximum effect is 90degrees to the sun so you might not always find a use for one in landscapes. A typical CirPol just screws onto the front of the lens and job done - just adjust by turning the outer ring. They can reduce reflections and control glare somewhat so they do have some other uses. You can get a slot in, but that is more expensive so forget about them just now unless you foresee yourself going down that road soon.

A grad will be potentially more useful but can more complex with respect requiring a holder and adaptor assuming you go for a slot-in (which is really the only option, not sure how screw-in's are effective). Slot-In slides up and down so you can position the graduation according to the scene. Now you don't need a holder and adaptor - you could hold the filter infront of the lens but thats a bit cumbersome for me. You can also get grads in different strengths (densities) and also with two edge styles which are either hard or soft. Soft Edges gradually blend from dark to clear whereas a Hard Edge is a more abrupt stop which makes it generally a better option for a seascape where you have a defined horizon.
 
You have had your trousers taken down and been rogered from behind.

Take it back and get your money back.
 
fracster said:
You have had your trousers taken down and been rogered from behind.

Take it back and get your money back.

I don't think they bothered taking the trousers down even, just went straight on in.

I don't how these companies and sales people sleep at night.
 
hmmm..A polariser's maximum effect is 90degrees to the sun so you might not always find a use for one in landscapes. A typical CirPol just screws onto the front of the lens and job done - just adjust by turning the outer ring. They can reduce reflections and control glare somewhat so they do have some other uses. You can get a slot in, but that is more expensive so forget about them just now unless you foresee yourself going down that road soon.

A grad will be potentially more useful but can more complex with respect requiring a holder and adaptor assuming you go for a slot-in (which is really the only option, not sure how screw-in's are effective). Slot-In slides up and down so you can position the graduation according to the scene. Now you don't need a holder and adaptor - you could hold the filter infront of the lens but thats a bit cumbersome for me. You can also get grads in different strengths (densities) and also with two edge styles which are either hard or soft. Soft Edges gradually blend from dark to clear whereas a Hard Edge is a more abrupt stop which makes it generally a better option for a seascape where you have a defined horizon.
thanks andy :thumbs:

I don't think they bothered taking the trousers down even, just went straight on in.

I don't how these companies and sales people sleep at night.
the thing is you trust these people and in truth some of them are not that clued up, lesson learned ask here first,
thanks tom:thumbs:
 
took uv filter back, and bought a cokin filter system it came with a sunset filter, the guy in jessops let me set it up and try it out, all i need now is some more filters :lol:

Good stuff Walter- glad you got 'unshafted'- now, get yourself over to the HWYETP thread- who needs filters eh?:lol::p
 
I had a few UV filters on lenses and all they did was degrade the image. Just keep a hood on while shooting for protection and only use one if its really dusty or wet. CPL and ND are helpful though and there is a few other useful ones but I'd rather have a good quality clear filter than a UV filter, but prefer none at all.
 
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