Tripod heads

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old_codger

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Glenn
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Hi All,

It might just be me, but many of the tripod heads I've been looking at seem to have fundamental flaws when it comes to implementing panoramic swivels. I'm getting frustrated trying to find a good solution.

In my mind, the ideal solution for a head that is suitable for 'general purpose' use plus panoramas would have a levelling base, with a panoramic swivel on top (just under the clamp). Most heads I see have the panoramic swivel at the bottom, where it seems to be pretty much useless since you're still at the mercy of any offset from the ball, and you still have to level the camera atop the clamp after you've levelled the legs.

Does anyone know of a head that has a levelling base at the bottom (say +/- 10 degrees, so the legs only have to be roughly level) with a panoramic rotation at the top? Bonus points if it's sensible money (I don't really want to spend more than £150). It needs to support a Fuji mirrorless with (worst case) a 55-200mm zoom. Thanks.
 
old_codger said:
Hi All,

It might just be me, but many of the tripod heads I've been looking at seem to have fundamental flaws when it comes to implementing panoramic swivels. I'm getting frustrated trying to find a good solution.

In my mind, the ideal solution for a head that is suitable for 'general purpose' use plus panoramas would have a levelling base, with a panoramic swivel on top (just under the clamp). Most heads I see have the panoramic swivel at the bottom, where it seems to be pretty much useless since you're still at the mercy of any offset from the ball, and you still have to level the camera atop the clamp after you've levelled the legs.

Does anyone know of a head that has a levelling base at the bottom (say +/- 10 degrees, so the legs only have to be roughly level) with a panoramic rotation at the top? Bonus points if it's sensible money (I don't really want to spend more than £150). It needs to support a Fuji mirrorless with (worst case) a 55-200mm zoom. Thanks.
Click to expand...

I just have a ARCA compatible panoranic head on top of my ball head, and then just put the camera on that. Something like this

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-PC-2...865496?hash=item46a751c858:g:dGcAAOSw7FRWWQSI
 
:plus1: exactly as suggested above, no need for a ballhead if using a pano clamp as above. I bought the Sirui one and use it on top if a Gitzo levelling base
 
Mr Perceptive said:
I just have a ARCA compatible panoranic head on top of my ball head, and then just put the camera on that.
Click to expand...

Thanks, that solves half the problem, but I'd still need to find a levelling base, and keep my existing head as well. I'm in danger of having a tripod that looks like a meccano kit. I was hoping to find a head that does it all without the extra palaver and weight of two extra lumps of metal! Maybe I'm just being too fussy :)
 
Son_of_Thor said:
:plus1: exactly as suggested above, no need for a ballhead if using a pano clamp as above. I bought the Sirui one and use it on top if a Gitzo levelling base
Click to expand...

Maybe I misunderstood. Do you mean you don't use a ballhead at all, just a levelling base with a panoramic clamp on top? I didn't realise that was an option.
 
old_codger said:
Thanks, that solves half the problem, but I'd still need to find a levelling base, and keep my existing head as well. I'm in danger of having a tripod that looks like a meccano kit. I was hoping to find a head that does it all without the extra palaver and weight of two extra lumps of metal! Maybe I'm just being too fussy :)
Click to expand...

I just level the top plate of the ball head using the spirit levels in the panoramic head, by moving the ball head appropriately, then attach the camera. It might not be the worlds most accuarte system but it works for me.
 
As you have mentioned, the suggestions of using a pano head only solve half the problem. You basically need a levelling base...something like this:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Neewer®-Leveling-Cameras-Tripods-Monopods/dp/B00MVNBTDG/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=tripod+leveling+base&qid=1582309723&sr=8-3

You then need a sprit level above the ball head component - this can be on the plate or the camera, it doesn't really matter.

Level the base, level the camera on top of the ball head/mounting plate and bob's your uncle. As long as you have a tripod head of base plate with a panoramic component, everything will now be levelled off.
 
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old_codger said:
Maybe I misunderstood. Do you mean you don't use a ballhead at all, just a levelling base with a panoramic clamp on top? I didn't realise that was an option.
Click to expand...

Yes, exactly that - levelling base and then arca compatible panoramic clamp on top. I also use the bubble level in the pano clamp - not precise, but quick and effective

I also have a ballhead, but it tends to gather dust these days unless a particular use case for it crops up..
 
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I just level the legs, adjust the camera level on the ballhead & done.

Only time it's a pain, is if you decide to adjust the composition a little bit on uneven ground. But either method/tools used would mean re-setting everything anyway.
 
I’ve got a uniqball with pano clamp. It has the levelling ball at the bottom and the pano clamp between the camera and normal ball head part. The only problem is the cost, it’s not within the £150 budget. You may be able to find a used copy of the UHB35P version but it would still be over £150.
 
My tripod may be type your after. It is made by PrimaPhoto PHTR001 model and inclides a level

JGDmK1j.jpg


C4ZFIxU.jpg

Minimum height 12 inches + max height 5ft ( I don't know about stability at 5ft but no different from any other light weight tripod I should imagine)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_...=m570.l1313&_nkw=PrimaPhoto++PHTR001&_sacat=0

May seem cheap but the head is detachable
Don't think you can go much wrong for the price

It comes with a crap ball head but I use a moman fluid head as it has a short handle and can take the weight

6sNrxTe.jpg


Why a short handle? with a long one (which I also have on another head) may mean making a noise walking the head around. With a short handle you don't have to
link

.https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_...sid=m570.l1313&_nkw=moman+fluid+head&_sacat=0


Will that head hold a large lens?

fL2OzVU.jpg


Nikon D810 and nikon afs70-200mm lens should answer that. ( shown on moman tripod)

total price for "Prima" tripod and that head around £50 or thereabouts

ks1Ldzf.jpg


this moman head will take 10kg weight

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Camera-T...292518?hash=item2a8eda38e6:g:EREAAOSwqF9Zx0Iq
 
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Arca Swiss P0... you can probably find a used one near your target price. I'd get the one w/o a clamp; then fit a standard arca swiss clamp to it.
There are also others like Acratech GP (designed to be used inverted for pans), ArcaSwiss Z1DP (panning top and bottom), etc.

There is another option as well... fit an arca swiss clamp to the bottom of your ballhead, and an arca plate to the top of your tripod. You then attach the ballhead to the tripod via one of the clamps. You can then attach it inverted for leveled top panning.
 
Stgeven
The one I suggested does meet the criteria asked for, that is a tripod base with a level- a fluid head ball or p;anning with arm- and mainly if he is like me keeping the price to a minimum with new gear. No doubt what you suggest may well also meet his needs except on price.
Question is how heavy and small does your suggestion measure up? I get the idea, like me, he is not in the prime of life (me nearly 75years old) and pensioner cost is very important.

the tripod with arm head comes in at 3.1lb as in my picture 3
 
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I bought a Koolehaoda E3 ball head with a panoramic plate built-in to the clamp. I can level the clamp then the camera stays level while panning. I don't see the need for a levelling base.

@realspeed Bazza, I think you've missed the point that what Glenn wants more than anything else is to keep the camera level for panoramic shots. You've rather filled the thread with photos that don't really demonstrate this.
 
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Snapsh0t


Yes I have, the tripod has a built on bubble level if you look closely in the first photo The tripod heads have 2 bubble levels

JzUByp8.jpg


9d8fxwh.jpg


If 3 different ways of getting a camera level then I don't know what is. I would not have suggested it if it didn't meet his criteria In price-weight-size-load capacity - levelling ability. Have to say I have done several very successful level videos with this rig.
 
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realspeed said:
Yes I have, the tripod has a built on bubble level if you look closely in the first photo The tripod heads have 2 bubble levels

JzUByp8.jpg


9d8fxwh.jpg


If 3 different ways of getting a camera level then I don't know what is. I would not have suggested it if it didn't meet his criteria In price-weight-size- and levelling ability. Have to say I have done several very successful level videos with this rig.
Click to expand...
Your tripod head is fine for the pano function but the OP wants a quick way to ensure the tripod legs are level. The only way to do that quickly without trying to perfectly set each tripod leg (which can take a while to get right and needs a spirit level on the tripod legs) is to have a levelling base between the tripod legs and tripod head.
 
If I am planning on doing panoramic photos I put this between my tripod head and tripod so I can easily level it. Then depending on the head add a pano base, and then my tripod head. This enables panoramic photos which are not 100 % horizontal from the head.

levelling base : https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00MVNBTDG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_csquEb35ARCFV

It is fairly chunky!
 
realspeed said:
OK you want to do a pano, presumably high up on a hill or where it is rocky. The best way is with adjusting tripod legs to level up with. there is no "quick "way to level up. That tripod has a bubble level which blows your arguement out of the water As I said if you can't level up with 3 bubble levels then you should not even think about doing pano shots or and other for that matter
Click to expand...

You are right in saying a tripod can be levelled if you have built in spirit level in the right place but levelling a tripod on a hill can be time consuming especially when you move locations a few times too. To say there isn’t a quick way when levelling bases have been talked about in the thread is wrong. I use a uniqball head, it takes me about 3 seconds to level the lower ball and that’s without needing to worry to much about the tripod legs. Levelling the tripod legs would take a lot longer.

Once you’ve used a levelling base you won’t go back to using a tripod without one. They are a great time saver which is fantastic for quick changing light or moving subjects. I use mine for wildlife. It’s so quick to level I can constantly move position and quickly level the tripod head without needing to worry about the tripod legs. That way I know I’m perfectly level when panning for wildlife photos. It can be used exactly the same way for landscapes panos too.
 
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There is a tripod with a centre column that levels differently from the legs (thomas Heaton used one) dammed if I can remember the make. The old Benbos could also do it (although a bit more fiddly).
 
I think the Thomas Heaton way of doing it is the 'best' - legs roughly level, level the base stick the camera on. But that's without a ball head iirc and just an up/down movement.

You can get the legs or base as level as you want, as quickly as you want, but if you have a ball head on top the camera isn't going to be automatically level itself.
 
realspeed said:
OK you want to do a pano, presumably high up on a hill or where it is rocky. The best way is with adjusting tripod legs to level up with.

Suggest you watch this video

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=auCR3i0K5Ec
Click to expand...

I get that you're trying to help - but the whole point of the thread is that levelling the legs "manually" is a pain in the arse. Have a look at some of the levelling bases we have linked...they make this whole process MUCH easier.
 
I have always favoured the tripod roughly level, basically stable but no more than that required, then level up the top of the ball head and use a pano clamp on top of the ball head method. This option always seems simple and some tripods come ready to use like that. The 3LT Winston I used to use had an integrated pano clamp on the head. I'm sure others do too. The disadvantage I understand with this approach is that it limits you to shooting with the camera perfectly level with the centre basically always on the horizon. Normally, that's fine and not too restrictive but not always.

I understand that the benefit of the 'Thomas Heaton' method is that once you've levelled up the levelling base, use of the type of head above the that restricts the camera to y axis or rotation movement only so the camera axis stay vertical even if it's pointing upward or downward. I can see that is a big advantage for being more creative with panos though to me looks like a clumsier set up over all particularly for regular stills. I'd quite like to try it out though to see for myself. The Benro Tripod that I use allows for that type of 75mm bowl levelling base, I just haven't got my head around how they fit and where I can get one.

This is the set up that I (and others) are talking about.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YRFAwNx7QJY
 
sk66 said:
There is another option as well... fit an arca swiss clamp to the bottom of your ballhead, and an arca plate to the top of your tripod. You then attach the ballhead to the tripod via one of the clamps. You can then attach it inverted for leveled top panning.
Click to expand...

That's a proper display of lateral thinking! Thanks, I'll investigate.
 
realspeed said:
OK you want to do a pano, presumably high up on a hill or where it is rocky. The best way is with adjusting tripod legs to level up with.

Suggest you watch this video

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=auCR3i0K5Ec
Click to expand...

Thanks, but to be honest the method he shows is exactly what I need to get away from. I shoot a lot at the beach and on boggy ground, and re-levelling the legs for every shot is tedious. It's inexact, and slow. There has to be a better way!
 
gad-westy said:
I have always favoured the tripod roughly level, basically stable but no more than that required, then level up the top of the ball head and use a pano clamp on top of the ball head method. This option always seems simple and some tripods come ready to use like that. The 3LT Winston I used to use had an integrated pano clamp on the head. I'm sure others do too. The disadvantage I understand with this approach is that it limits you to shooting with the camera perfectly level with the centre basically always on the horizon. Normally, that's fine and not too restrictive but not always.

I understand that the benefit of the 'Thomas Heaton' method is that once you've levelled up the levelling base, use of the type of head above the that restricts the camera to y axis or rotation movement only so the camera axis stay vertical even if it's pointing upward or downward. I can see that is a big advantage for being more creative with panos though to me looks like a clumsier set up over all particularly for regular stills. I'd quite like to try it out though to see for myself. The Benro Tripod that I use allows for that type of 75mm bowl levelling base, I just haven't got my head around how they fit and where I can get one.

This is the set up that I (and others) are talking about.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YRFAwNx7QJY
Click to expand...

We're on the same page, thanks for that. I've decided to hang on until the Birmingham show in March, and see if I can't get hands on a few tripods and heads. The engineer in me likes the idea of having the levelling base as part of the tripod rather than the head, so who knows, I may end up with a new set of sticks.
 
old_codger said:
That's a proper display of lateral thinking! Thanks, I'll investigate.
Click to expand...
If you want to do something like multi-row/tilted-head panos, then there is nothing that will replace getting the base level. You can buy tripods that have integrated claw ball bases (leveling platforms), and most tripods that do not have center columns can be adapted to claw ball (bowl) bases.
But I don't like the claw ball; because it has a handle that extends below the tripod, which prevents using it as low as possible. So I use a Sirui leveling base on top instead (like some others have linked to).
 
sk66 said:
Arca Swiss P0... you can probably find a used one near your target price. I'd get the one w/o a clamp; then fit a standard arca swiss clamp to it.
There are also others like Acratech GP (designed to be used inverted for pans), ArcaSwiss Z1DP (panning top and bottom), etc.

There is another option as well... fit an arca swiss clamp to the bottom of your ballhead, and an arca plate to the top of your tripod. You then attach the ballhead to the tripod via one of the clamps. You can then attach it inverted for leveled top panning.
Click to expand...

Steven knows what he's talking about, and has also tried just about every option. They all have drawbacks to some extent, and I've probably used almost as many, but I've also concluded that the Arca-Swiss P0 is the simplest, neatest, easiest, lightest, most precise and secure everyday walkabout solution - if not the cheapest. The drawback is you really need an L-bracket for verticals as the panning movement is obviously lost when the head is tilted over, though it's still workable in a pinch.

His other suggestion, of fitting an extra A-S plate (to the top of the tripod) and clamp (to the bottom of the head) so that the head can simply be inverted, also works well and cheaply. However, you may need a bit of DIY to get everything fitting properly with the right length bolts and threads etc, and if you don't like the 'Meccano look' it's not the neatest. BTW, this method is also good for quick-swapping heads to different tripods.
 
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jerry12953 said:
That's what I normally do although using a tripod would be more "professional".
Click to expand...

I use a tripod if I have would have set up to shoot with one anyway

This was handheld I was on holiday five vertical shots I think at a focal length equivalent to 24mm on 35mm format

Banff and the bow river by Alf Branch, on Flickr

This was through a moving helicopter window three vertical shots I think at a focal length equivalent to 24mm on 35mm format

The Rockies 1- by Alf Branch, on Flickr
 
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alfbranch said:
You can also just shoot them handheld and stop making so much fuss I been successful from moving vehicles before
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There's a lot of truth in that.

There are two kinds of panoramas, and their demands are quite different:
- distant landscapes, that are really fine to do hand-held with a bit of care (and let the software sort things out)
- and panos with close objects, like interiors and some architecture, that need precison for accurate stitching

Close subjects often require not only precise working, but a head that pivots around the so-called nodal point of the lens, to keep straight lines straight in the foreground.
 
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HoppyUK said:
There's a lot of truth in that.

There are two kinds of panoramas, and their demands are quite different:
- distant landscapes, that are really fine to do hand-held with a bit of care (and let the software sort things out)
- and panos with close objects, like interiors and some architecture, that need precison for accurate stitching

Close subjects often require not only precise working, but a head that pivots around the so-called nodal point of the lens, to keep straight lines straight.
Click to expand...

Yeah I get that this one took more care on a tripod not perfect though

Wasdale-panorama by Alf Branch, on Flickr
 
Acratech GXP Ball head does everything but is quite pricey at over £500.
 
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