Tripod mounting plate

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Andy
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No doubt a lot have had this problem. No matter how tight do up my tripod plate on my camera it works loose. I use both Monfrotto and Arca along with three legged thing Ellie.

Got to the point where I am constantly checking and worrying camera and tripod will part company. Don't get on with all these extra 'safety lines' etc.

Anyone found a solution please
 
Even with tripod plates that have rubber inserts work loose in my experience.... am very reluctant to tighten the screws too much as I found that on one or two cameras I have owned the actual working of the camera is limited (Pentax Z-20 AF was disabled - known fault)...
 
Other than checking every time I use a QR plate on a tripod, there's no real solution. Well, not if you want to be able to remove the plate from the body/lens easily! If you're happy needing a tool to remove the plate, a drop of a threadlocking compound will do the job.
 
I’ve not really had issues with arca Swiss plates coming lose on lens tripod feet as I mainly use longer plates and use two screw points. With L brackets I’ve always used camera specific L brackets as the universal L brackets will twist with only one central fixing. Current I use the 3LT canon R6 specific L bracket and find it to be very good. The bracket has a front edge and locating pin to stop rotation.
 
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No doubt a lot have had this problem. No matter how tight do up my tripod plate on my camera it works loose. I use both Monfrotto and Arca along with three legged thing Ellie.

Got to the point where I am constantly checking and worrying camera and tripod will part company. Don't get on with all these extra 'safety lines' etc.

Anyone found a solution please
Interested to know whether these are genuine plates or pattern copies?
 
I use an Acratech plate on my E-M1 mk3 that I hope will be good fit on the OM-1 but have yet to try it. That is only utilised when I have the 12-40 short zoom mounted

On my 40-150 I now use the AS plate that came with my Sirui tilt head.

I have never yet had an attached plate get loose!

The aforementioned Acratech plate has no rubber and is machined for metal to metal attachment.

FWIW I use the Allen key to attach the plates....and once hand tight I cinch it firmly (approx 1/16" of a turn, if that)

Two thoughts

How deep is the tripod socket and how long is the screw. I fear that possibly some budget (cheaper?) plates might might either be too thin and/or the screw is too long. NB something to be aware of, fitting too long a screw in too short a hole can result in camera damage!


PS I always use a precautionary tether......and was grateful for it when I used Canon. One minute the body & 100-400 were paired the next the body was hanging from the tether, it had parted company. I had somehow inadvertantly pressed the lens release button and gravity & movement took over !!!
 
I use an FLM plate. It’s cork on the camera side. It’s never worked loose.
 
I have never had a problem, but for the last 6 years I have always had a L bracket with Arca Swiss grooves, for attaching to the tripod, permanently in place.

I have noticed that some of the mounting screws can be something of a loose fit , in that case it is best to change them.
Camera Mounting screws started out as 1/4 & 3/8 whitworth, they have changed over the years to 1/4 & 3/8 UNC.

However they have different face angles 55 degrees against 60 degrees. And although they do fit each other. They do not bind together so securely when mixed. Camera makers and accessory makers only seem to give lip service to either standard. If you leave your plate or bracket permanently attached you could always use one of the weaker thread locks for greater security.
 
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Interested to know whether these are genuine plates or pattern copies?
Ive had issues with 3rd party plates .
In fact I have one on an intrepid atm that doesn’t work loose from the camera but when attached to the tripod head, i have to slot some thin card alongside it to ensure it sits snug and doesn’t move in its ´cradle’ .

Cant say that I’ve had problems with authentic manfrotto plates .
 
Make sure the fixing screw isn't bottoming out in the camera bush. If it is you'll never get a tight fit between the plate and the camera without 'adjusting' the screw length either by packing out the gap between the plate/camera base or reducing the screw length physically.

I had this with a Bushnell trail cam. Too much pressure caused the bush to tear out of the plastic body. Now fixed with epoxy putty!
 
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Like Terry (Terrywoodenpic) I use L brackets for Arca and never have a problems. I did have some issues with the "plate" on a Silk tripod a sort of big stud thing but that was years ago.
 
I have thrown out the cheap copies as they are never a tight fit and are obviously of low grade material. I use a Three Legged Thing Ellie bracket and that has come loose too.

PTN, the verticle part of the bracket cannot fit flush to the side of the D7500 due to the camera strap attachment getting in the way.
 
Ive had issues with 3rd party plates .
In fact I have one on an intrepid atm that doesn’t work loose from the camera but when attached to the tripod head, i have to slot some thin card alongside it to ensure it sits snug and doesn’t move in its ´cradle’ .

Cant say that I’ve had problems with authentic manfrotto plates .
One of the plates is a genuine manfrotto and has come loose. The others were cheap repros and are now in the scrap metal bin.
 
One of the plates is a genuine manfrotto and has come loose. The others were cheap repros and are now in the scrap metal bin.
I’m wondering if the problem actually doesn’t lie with the plates themselves but with the screw recess located on the camera !
 
Both my camera bodies have L brackets attached, which are Arca compatible. The issue for me is my birding scope, it's so big & heavy that no matter what QR plate I use, the scope ends up pivoting on it...
 
Both my camera bodies have L brackets attached, which are Arca compatible. The issue for me is my birding scope, it's so big & heavy that no matter what QR plate I use, the scope ends up pivoting on it...
IIRC the plates for (older?) video cameras had a pin and the cameras themselves had an anti-pivot pinhole. The pin was either fixed & removable or spring loaded, in either case it meant the plate could be used on cameras without the pinhole.

So, I wonder if the scope has the corresponding hole and whether you can still get a suitable plate???
 
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IIRC the plates for (older?) video cameras had a pin and the cameras themselves had an anti-pivot pinhole. The pin was either fixed & removable or spring loaded, in either case it meant the plate could be used on cameras without the pinhole.

So, I wonder if the scope has the corresponding hole and whether you can still get a suitable plate???

The scope does have the hole, but finding a plate has been a PITA....
 
The scope does have the hole, but finding a plate has been a PITA....
Is it an AS plate or 'tripod' makers plate that you are looking for?

Though not a pin, some plates have end stops to butt the lens against.....that as far as I can tell od designed to stop the skewing/pivoting but of that is not ideal for every situation as the CoG may be off!

NB I am thinking of Whimberly lens plates and my Sirui universal plates that came with my Sirui tilt head.
 
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I’m wondering if the problem actually doesn’t lie with the plates themselves but with the screw recess located on the camera !

in many cases you are probably right.
There are two possible reasons for this.
I) Too great a tolerance in the internal screw thread compared to the male thread of the attachment.
2) Play of the thread component in the camera base.
In the past most female threads were cut into the main frame of the camera and was solid. Today the thread is often into a plate which is in turn held by three or four minute screws into the base of the camera sometimes only into the camera base or cover plate.

When movement is possible at the junction between two parts then screws can also wriggle loose. as they rely on constant pressure and friction to stay locked.

If a mounting plate can revolve to and fro even slightly on the base, this is also causing the screw to rotate, it is then inevitable that the screw will loosen.

L Brackets often have lips or pins to prevent the camera base being able to rotate in relation to the bracket. This is inherently more stable than relying on screw pressure alone. With such an arrangement it is rare for screws to loosen.

Many lens plate and camera mounting plate rely on friction alone to prevent rotation. as @Jelster has found this is often insufficient with regard to heavier equipment.

Interestingly most Cine cameras have a standardised pin recess built in to the camera base. to stop this rotation. you will find that a number of Camera mounting plates and tripods have a sprung loaded matching pin for this purpose. however few if any Still cameras comply with this standard.

On many Fuji X cameras. they include a register pin hole to locate with their own hand grips, as seen on my XT30 below.
However very few L bracket manufacturers have ever made use of it. My own generic bracket uses a peripheral lip to encompass much of the base in preference.


Fuji XT30 base.
XT30-base.jpg
 
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@Jelster

I did find this one that might(?) help


Though aimed at still cameras of specific makes/models perhaps your scope has compatible hole position?
 
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Another way to stop Plates twisting and screws becoming loose....lipped-camera-plate.jpg
Is to use plates with lips, These register tightly to one edge of the camera base plate and eliminate the tendency to twist.
They have extended slots for the screw for adjustment forward and back to enable this.

This is a very small one that fits perfectly on my X30 camera, and is left permanently in place, and is used in conjunction with my swiss type tripod heads or this miniature one fitted to my Chest pod. The width of this plate is the full depth of a normal AS plate.
They are available in full sizes for AS and Manfrotto plates.
 
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On my X-20 and 30, I use an adapted Manfrotto plate with 1/8" of the rubber cut away so I can still use the flip screens. Doesn't that lipped plate interfere with the screens?


ETA. Sort of ignore that last sentence - I can now see that the lip is to the front of the body, not the back!
 
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