Uniqball - any users out there?

jerry12953 said:
I spoke to Tim Parkin (On Landscape magazine) at the Photography Show and he wasn't too impressed with the Uniqball. It was the upward movement of the head when you tighten it up which concerned him.

So although I have more or less pulled the trigger on one of these I shall try it out with trepidation.......
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There is a slight upward movement when locking up. It's not like a geared head that stays in position and has no movement. My old ball head used to have a bit of movement when locking up too so it's not something I've worried about. It's all a compromise, for me the benefits (lightweight, one solution, levelling, acra Swiss plates, panning *needs additional part*, does everything I need to to) outweigh the negatives (not a true gimbal, slight movement locking up) as I can practically carry only one tripod and head to do both wildlife and landscapes. If you want the best solution to do both wildlife and landscapes it would mean carrying a geared head and a gimbal, but then there is that additional weight increase to carry both and the pain to swap between them. It's a compromise and that's the decision you have to make.
 
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Just thought I would post some observations so far on my UB35P, although I've only used it in "long lens with tripod collar" mode. To be honest, I find that locking the horizon correctly using the outer ball, and then using the inner ball to make fine adjustments, is a bit awkward. Coming from a standard ball head the inability to move the camera in any direction immediately can be a bit frustrating, particularly with fast moving subjects.

However I've found a solution to this which makes it an absolute delight to use. I slacken off the tripod collar so that the lens can rotate within it. This combination gives infinitely variable adjustments without the ball collapsing as can happen with a standard ball head. So that has been a real revelation.

Secondly I've been puzzled to find that when you slacken off the outer head, the whole thing rotates on the top of the tripod. At first I thought I must have attached the head wrongly but it seems to be a feature. Anyone else found this to be awkward or make using it difficult ? Or found a way to turn this into a positive?
 
I'm not sure why you want the camera to "twist" once the horizon/level has been set... that kind of defeats the purpose. But it's certainly no different than a Wimberley or other "long lens head."

The outer collar/ball is not intended to be used as a traditional ballhead with friction drag. I think there is something in the instructions that say you *shouldn't* use it that way. It's intended to be loosened/set. I don't find it to be a problem... I keep one hand on the clamping knob and the other on the camera when setting it.
 
Steven, your point is a sensible one but when I first tried out a Uniqball I could immediately see the limitations of only being able to pan and tilt the inner ball.

Let's say you have a small bird in a bush in the viewfinder and it moves a few feet away diagonally. If the large ball is locked you can only move the head vertically and horizontally (panning and tilting) . So as far as I can see it's not possible to move quickly over to the birds new position without rotating the lens. The Uniqball is still advantageous in that you don't have to slacken the main ball off and risk the whole caboodle collapsing in one direction or another.

Those are my first impressions anyway, and I'm still on a learning curve with it.
 
Diagonally? As in "right and down?"

The only reason to rotate the body/horizon is if you don't want the horizon "flat." And with wildlife/birds that may be the case for composition (if you're tight). But you're basically just changing the orientation (landscape/portrait), and IMO the best way to do that is with the tripod collar.
 
jerry12953 said:
Just thought I would post some observations so far on my UB35P, although I've only used it in "long lens with tripod collar" mode. To be honest, I find that locking the horizon correctly using the outer ball, and then using the inner ball to make fine adjustments, is a bit awkward. Coming from a standard ball head the inability to move the camera in any direction immediately can be a bit frustrating, particularly with fast moving subjects.

However I've found a solution to this which makes it an absolute delight to use. I slacken off the tripod collar so that the lens can rotate within it. This combination gives infinitely variable adjustments without the ball collapsing as can happen with a standard ball head. So that has been a real revelation.

Secondly I've been puzzled to find that when you slacken off the outer head, the whole thing rotates on the top of the tripod. At first I thought I must have attached the head wrongly but it seems to be a feature. Anyone else found this to be awkward or make using it difficult ? Or found a way to turn this into a positive?
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The outer ball is only a levelling ball. The point of the outer ball is level the tripod to ensure you have a level base to work off. The benefit here is the outer levelling ball is far easier to set level than trying to level the top of the tripod by altering the height of the three tripod legs. Once the bubble in the round spirit gauge is in the centre you lock the outer ball and don't need to touch it again. The inner panning and tilt ball can now be released and you will always have a perfect level image no matter which way you pan or tilt the lens.

Can I ask you do have the red knob of the inner ball pointing in the same direction as the lens? If you don't the pan and tilt won't work properly.


jerry12953 said:
Steven, your point is a sensible one but when I first tried out a Uniqball I could immediately see the limitations of only being able to pan and tilt the inner ball.

Let's say you have a small bird in a bush in the viewfinder and it moves a few feet away diagonally. If the large ball is locked you can only move the head vertically and horizontally (panning and tilting) . So as far as I can see it's not possible to move quickly over to the birds new position without rotating the lens. The Uniqball is still advantageous in that you don't have to slacken the main ball off and risk the whole caboodle collapsing in one direction or another.

Those are my first impressions anyway, and I'm still on a learning curve with it.
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I don't get what you mean here, if a bird moved diagonally away i would move the lens diagonally to follow it as the uniqball can pan and tilt at the same time, you don't have to pan left then tilt up up. The pan and tilt movement of the uniqball works exactly the same as a gimbal head. Have you used a gimbal head before? With my uniqball I can follow the movement of a bird in flight even if it swoops, dives, climbs, turns. Its a smooth action to follow its movement.

The uniqball works very well for me, it only takes a few seconds to set up:

1/ angle tripod legs
2/ set outer ball using the bubble spirit level to level the inner ball and lock outer ball.
3/ release inner ball and move the lens knowing everything is perfectly level.

If you are needing to loosen the tripod collar to allow you to twist the lens then something is not right in the way you have set up the uniqball. It definitely sounds like you haven't got the red knob pointing forwards in line with the lens. Could you post a photo of your lens on your uniqball as it will be easier to see what the problem is.
 
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sk66 said:
Diagonally? As in "right and down?"

The only reason to rotate the body/horizon is if you don't want the horizon "flat." And with wildlife/birds that may be the case for composition (if you're tight). But you're basically just changing the orientation (landscape/portrait), and IMO the best way to do that is with the tripod collar.
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Yep the tripod collar is only there to change between landscape and portrait orientations, its the only reason I ever twist the tripod collar. Once the outer ball is set level there is no need to release it until you move location and have to level it again.
 
Rob,

I'm very grateful for the explanation and I did wonder if I could have set the thing up incorrectly. But I don't think I have. The (red) inner ball adjustment knob is along the same axis as the lens, pointing forwards. I'm used to that having used a Novoflex Magicball for years.

I understand how to level the horizon but I think the situation I described is one where there isn't a horizon. The only thing that matters is the composition, which Steven refers to above. I spent several hours photographing small birds landing on twigs close to a bird feeder and found that slackening off the lens collar gave me an extra level of flexibility. Unless I'm completely deluded it gives you movement in the one dimension that the Uniqball is designed not to move in, without the drawbacks.

You have that flexibility with a standard ball head (or the outer ball on the Uniqball) but you run the risk of the whole set-up collapsing to one side or the other. This doesn't happen using the lens collar.

I've never used a gimbal, actually. It would be interesting to try.

This is all part of the learning process. I know I had real problems when I retired the Magicball and began using a standard ball head...:eek:
 
I understand your frustration Jerry. Rotating via the lens collar gives another dimension of movement, a very important one IMHO, but most lens collars are not designed to be used like that when unlocked - they're just unlock, change orientation, re-lock. Some lenses are okay and you can use them with the collar loose; from memory, I'm not sure how good your Tamron is for that.

If you ever get the chance to try an Arca-Swiss P0 (basically a better version of your favourite Novoflex MagicBall) that might be the answer. Fantastic thing. Let me know if you want to try mine :)

Or the ultimate solution would be a gimbal with lens collar loose. I think those cheap ones are well worth a punt ;)
 
jerry12953 said:
Rob,

I'm very grateful for the explanation and I did wonder if I could have set the thing up incorrectly. But I don't think I have. The (red) inner ball adjustment knob is along the same axis as the lens, pointing forwards. I'm used to that having used a Novoflex Magicball for years.

I understand how to level the horizon but I think the situation I described is one where there isn't a horizon. The only thing that matters is the composition, which Steven refers to above. I spent several hours photographing small birds landing on twigs close to a bird feeder and found that slackening off the lens collar gave me an extra level of flexibility. Unless I'm completely deluded it gives you movement in the one dimension that the Uniqball is designed not to move in, without the drawbacks.

You have that flexibility with a standard ball head (or the outer ball on the Uniqball) but you run the risk of the whole set-up collapsing to one side or the other. This doesn't happen using the lens collar.

I've never used a gimbal, actually. It would be interesting to try.

This is all part of the learning process. I know I had real problems when I retired the Magicball and began using a standard ball head...:eek:
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The situation you describe here is one that doesn't suit the uniqball or even a gimbal head. Majority of the time I want a level base to work from unless I want to be creative with framing where using the tripod collar as you describe would work well. If I'm photographing birds in flight I want a level bass to work from. It saves levelling the images in Lightroom later on where there is a horizon or trees in the background. It all depends how you work, I find knowing it's level saves a headache trying to work out what's level later.
 
HoppyUK said:
I understand your frustration Jerry. Rotating via the lens collar gives another dimension of movement, a very important one IMHO, but most lens collars are not designed to be used like that when unlocked - they're just unlock, change orientation, re-lock. Some lenses are okay and you can use them with the collar loose; from memory, I'm not sure how good your Tamron is for that.

If you ever get the chance to try an Arca-Swiss P0 (basically a better version of your favourite Novoflex MagicBall) that might be the answer. Fantastic thing. Let me know if you want to try mine :)

Or the ultimate solution would be a gimbal with lens collar loose. I think those cheap ones are well worth a punt ;)
Click to expand...


The lens collar on the Tamron is a bit lumpy when you rotate it but it does the job when required. Photographing birds one is always using a short enough shutter speed that a bit of wobble doesn't matter.

Maybe the Arca Swiss P0 IS the answer - I'll definitely look into it. Thanks very much for the offer, and I may take you up on it one day! As for gimbals I'd like to try one one day but I don't want to mess around swapping tripod heads in different situations.
 
Problem I find is that 'level' isn't always 'level', especially when panning, so for me with the 500 f4 on the Wimberley gimbal the tripod collar is always loosened off to allow rotation as required. :)
 
gramps said:
Problem I find is that 'level' isn't always 'level', especially when panning, so for me with the 500 f4 on the Wimberley gimbal the tripod collar is always loosened off to allow rotation as required. :)
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Interesting! Thanks for mentioning this.

I wonder if this is something that manufacturers could look into.
 
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HoppyUK said:
Or the ultimate solution would be a gimbal with lens collar loose. I think those cheap ones are well worth a punt ;)
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Using a gimbal head in that way would be no different to how Jerry is using the uniqball, both have similar panning and tilting movement (the gimbal adds the benefit of being able to leave the lens at any angle without locking). What Jerry is talking about is the ability of a ball head to move on a 'circumference angle' to aid what he feels is a better composition. For me this movement was what made me move away from a ballhead to a gimbal, and then onto the uniqball as compromise of a the lightweight of a ballhead and movement of a gimbal without this sideways movement.
 
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I would choose camera rotation (collar) over leaning a ballhead... but it is seldom as smooth. And it can be a lot of strain on the lens mount w/ a very large lens (if rotating by the camera body).

There really isn't a great solution for this with action photography. And the more you loosen things up in order to allow quick reaction/repositioning, the less "stability" you are getting from the tripod/head (it's really just weight support).
 
rob-nikon said:
Using a gimbal head in that way would be no different to how Jerry is using the uniqball, both have similar panning and tilting movement (the gimbal adds the benefit of being able to leave the lens at any angle without locking). What Jerry is talking about is the ability of a ball head to move on a 'circumference angle' to aid what he feels is a better composition. For me this movement was what made me move away from a ballhead to a gimbal, and then onto the uniqball as compromise of a the lightweight of a ballhead and movement of a gimbal without this sideways movement.
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Yes, I know what Jerry means. I said gimbal with lens collar loose - that provides all movement options. The Uniqball is not at all like a gimbal, if only for the important aspect you describe - it won't hold the camera unless it's locked. For me, that's the main advantage of a gimbal. And because of that, TBH I'm struggling to find any advantage over a plain ballhead.
 
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HoppyUK said:
TBH I'm struggling to find any advantage over a plain ballhead.
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The UniqueBall as pan/tilt acts and feels like a video fluid head. A video fluid head (on claw base) is a great choice for wildlife/action... except they are huge and weigh a ton (for a relative weight rating).

For action/wildlife I see no real advantage over a gimbal head on a leveling base... except (IME) the UniqueBall is lighter/smoother (with drag set). The main advantage here is that it can be used for other things as well.
The advantage over a ballhead is that a ballhead cannot act as a pan/tilt... well, it can if the camera/weight is flopped to the side (pretty risky in many cases). But most ballheads were not designed for this type of wear/abuse (they're not actually perpendicular when flopped, the shaft/base wears).

And, it has easy/quick leveling built in... granted, there are other options for achieving this. And, it has a much greater leveling range than leveling bases do. BUT, if you do use it towards the extremes it is also putting the weight farther off-center (actually, it is "re-centering" the weight, just not enough to offset the tripod angle).
 
HoppyUK said:
Yes, I know what Jerry means. I said gimbal with lens collar loose - that provides all movement options. The Uniqball is not at all like a gimbal, if only for the important aspect you describe - it won't hold the camera unless it's locked. For me, that's the main advantage of a gimbal. And because of that, TBH I'm struggling to find any advantage over a plain ballhead.
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The uniqball doesn't replace a gimbal head but it does enough of a gimbal for me except the sitting unlocked at an angle. Im not against gimbals, I still use a gimbal. Ive found I use it less now except in a hide where its sitting unlocked function is an advantage. This is mainly due to the types of photography I do, what works for me may not work for others.

The advantage of the uniqball is the horizontal/vertical only pan/tilt action without the sideways flop of a ball head in a lightweight combination for both landscapes and wildlife. It's closer in many ways to a ball head than a gimbal.

Often when travelling I'm combining long lens wildlife with landscapes, carrying only one head and tripod is a big advantage to me. If I'm walking about for wildlife the weight saving of the uniqball is an advantage as 750-1000g is a big weight saving over my gimbal head. If I'm in a hide with intermittent wildlife visits it's always going to be a gimbal that's best to use.

The problem has been their marketing saying that it replaced a gimbal, it doesn't, if you need all functions of a gimbal you need a gimbal. It's only beneficial if you want only one lightweight head without the side flop of a ball head for both landscapes and wildlife, otherwise you are better off with a gimbal, ball head or 3 way head.
 
sk66 said:
I never use my gimbal any more... I'll be selling it...
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I have thought about doing that as it hardly gets used as I don't do photography from hides very often. One of my reasons for getting the uniqball was to go to only one head, my gimbal should now be sold as its pointless keeping it and not using it much.
 
jerry12953 said:
A question for those who use a gimbal: is it common practice to use one with the lens collar released to give maximum flexibility?
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When using a gimbal it depends on if I've taken the time to properly level the tripod by adjusting the tripod legs. If I haven't set up the tripod level, the extra movement of the lens collar helps to compose a level image. If the tripod legs are properly levelled I find there is no need for the lens collar to be loose. I find how smooth the rotation movement is very dependant on the lens, some collars are better than others.

Both a gimbal and the uniqball work in the same respect due to the fixed horizontal panning and vertical tilt, both need a properly levelled base to work without the need to use the lens collar to make further adjustments. If you find a loose tripod collar is beneficial to you then use it that way on your uniqball, there is no right or wrong way if you get the images you are after.
 
rob-nikon said:
I have thought about doing that as it hardly gets used as I don't do photography from hides very often. One of my reasons for getting the uniqball was to go to only one head, my gimbal should now be sold as its pointless keeping it and not using it much.
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Even stationary/from a hide I use the UniqBall... It can be locked to hold any position, and released very quickly with a small twist of the knob. And it can often be "balanced" to hold a primary position/angle with just a little friction (preferable).
 
rob-nikon said:
When using a gimbal it depends ...... there is no right or wrong way if you get the images you are after.
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I agree, but it goes back to what I said earlier about "stability" vs "weight support."
Some people only use a gimbal fully loosened with the tripod collar loose as well. In that case the system is only preventing "fatigue" by supporting the weight for you. It is doing about nothing to minimize/prevent "vibration" and "camera shake." Used this way you need surprisingly high SS's... nearly the same as handholding (w/o fatigue set in).

The "better way" is to fix anything that can be fixed (i.e. tripod collar, roll axis, etc), and then set a drag resistance for anything that cannot be fixed. It is those resistances (fixed/drag) that minimize vibrations/camera shake. But the drag resistance has to be smooth in order to prevent "juddering" (start/stops/speed changes)... That's an advantage a fluid head and the UniqueBall have over most (all?) gimbal heads... fine adjustment of very smooth drag resistance.

It amazes me that some people will spend 1-2K on a massive tripod w/o a center column for it's "stability" and then unlock everything but the legs... that's just about pointless...
 
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Kind of off-topic, but I just stumbled across a new brand of ball head I've not heard about before - KPS, from Korea. They have two interesting designs - a ballhead with a gimbal-type option (there are a couple of others like this around, eg Markins and Acratech, but they're not gimbal in the Wimberley sense), and another one that really appeals to me, a fairly conventional looking ballhead that incorportates geared movements. Some clever mechs going on inside there! Quite light for a geared head, but $800.

http://legioaerium.com/collections/...5dv-geared-ball-head-with-lever-quick-release
 
HoppyUK said:
Kind of off-topic, but I just stumbled across a new brand of ball head I've not heard about before - KPS, from Korea.
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I had seen that maybe 2 yrs ago... I have no clue how they incorporate gearing into a ballhead, and the price is off-putting. Maybe, but that is a long stretch IMO...

I've not seen a gimbal "adaptation" of a ballhead that wasn't a notable compromise... I can't see those being any different. (I think Markins has come close to the best adaptation)
 
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sk66 said:
I had seen that maybe 2 yrs ago... I have no clue how they incorporate gearing into a ballhead, and the price is off-putting. Maybe, but that is a long stretch IMO...

I've not seen a gimbal "adaptation" of a ballhead that wasn't a notable compromise... I can't see those being any different. (I think Markins has come close to the best adaptation)
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Yes, price is a problem with that geared jobbie...

Seems to me some of those ballhead 'gimbal' adaptations just remove one axis of movement and create something that's effectively the same as a monopod head, like this SunwayFoto http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUNWAYFOT...thout-clamp-/272104836578?hash=item3f5ab64de2
 
HoppyUK said:
Yes, price is a problem with that geared jobbie...

Seems to me some of those ballhead 'gimbal' adaptations just remove one axis of movement and create something that's effectively the same as a monopod head, like this SunwayFoto http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUNWAYFOT...thout-clamp-/272104836578?hash=item3f5ab64de2
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Yes, they do... things like the "sidekick" etc. And they also put the weight off-center which is not a good thing. They're really not a lot different from just using a ballhead flopped to the side (which can be used in a pinch).

A pan/tilt was the choice before gimbals... Acratech still makes one as their "long lens head." There aren't any others still made that I know of (except fluid heads).
I've used a head similar to that sunway (panning clamp instead of panning base) on a leveling base before... It works well, in some ways better than the UniqueBall (pan and tilt drags can be set separately). But it's back to only doing that one thing well, and by the time you add a leveling base it's as heavy/heavier (but cheaper than any of the other options really).
 
Hmm this is an old un' sorry to dig it out

@sk66 Steven, do you have any thoughts on the comparison of the flexshooter ball heads with the unique ball?

Do you still have concerns over the " x" clamp/ plate design ?

Rob Jerry @rob-nikon @jerry12953 Do you still use the uniqueball any thoughts all these years on?

Can anyone tell me what novoflex is?

many thanks

stu
 
Stuart Philpott said:
@sk66 Steven, do you have any thoughts on the comparison of the flexshooter ball heads with the unique ball?
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The FlexShooter just adds a fixed counterbalance spring similar to a cheap video head. If your kit falls in the weight range where the counterbalance helps, it's a good thing; otherwise it's a notable negative. Originally I didn't think the price difference was justified; but it's much less now.

I still use my UniqBall UBH-45 a lot. I haven't used an X-clamp, instead I have square arca swiss plates attached to the camera bodies.
 
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Hi Stu!

I stopped using the Uniqball several years ago, actually, because I found the disadvantages overwhelmed the advantages. I'm posting a link to my review and at the bottom is a note to that effect. Especially using it for landscape photography I found myself cursing and swearing at its limitations and I can well remember the day when I decided "enough is enough"! I'm using an Acratech now although TBH I don't use a tripod nearly as much as I used to. Hope you're well, Jerry.

https://talesfromwildwales.co.uk/2016/06/01/the-uniqball-ub35p-tripod-head-niche-but-nice/

Novoflex is/was a manufacturer of tripods/heads etc which are/were mainly distributed by SpeedGraphic. I think they're still available.
 
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sk66 said:
The FlexShooter just adds a fixed counterbalance spring similar to a cheap video head. If your kit falls in the weight range where the counterbalance helps, it's a good thing; otherwise it's a notable negative. Originally I didn't think the price difference was justified; but it's much less now.

I still use my UniqBall UBH-45 a lot; I haven't used an X-clamp.
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As always thanks for the insights good to here it's still in use and still performing I'm mainly a handholder with the wild.life but it's about time I had a half decent tripod and head. for the odd occassion. I do have a gimbal but it's so heavy when moving on the floor one of these double ball heads is so light, it could prove a useful tool for me

thank you
 
Over the pond the Flexshooter seems to be becoming popular.

It's quite often mentioned (positively) on Steve Perry's website forums. bcgforums.com

Andy rouse is the UK agent.
 
This is the thread I meant

Lightweight gimbal recommendations

I have downsized my gear from the Nikon 500 F4 to the Nikon 500 PF, and z8. My gimbal is HEAVY and I no longer need that much support. Looking for recommendations for lighter gimbal heads. TIA
bcgforums.com bcgforums.com
 
Hey Jerry :)

You mate.are you good? Lol Jerry I'm on the second day of my first break since chrimbo and I'm a bag of nails picked up some form of man flu, Ii'm a wimp at being ill but it will pass. Thank you for asking.

Beautifully crafted words mate went on and read Anglesea squirrels as well....many shared sentiments. There was some tireless work that went into reinstating the reds, aren't they a joy !1

Back to topic I strongly suspect that the only way I'm going to find out if one works for me is to bite the bullet as it were. We all make images in different ways.inhabit different niches

I want to explore landscape a bit widen my toolkit am also curious about making hare vids up close. I just nabbed a beautiful 16-35 f4 so need a tripod and head worthy of my other gear really.

Jerry I have this little hi hat tripod but topped with the lensmaster gimball it's quite heavy to maul a couple of hundred yards to a hare on the floor with the 1dxii and the 400DO so Ii'm really wondering if one of these double ball heads might suit.

Who knows buddy suspect I'm going to have to spend to find out would probably go for the 45 though

Many thanks for the thoughts will look into the aratech
 
Peter123 said:
Over the pond the Flexshooter seems to be becoming popular.

It's quite often mentioned (positively) on Steve Perry's website forums. bcgforums.com

Andy rouse is the UK agent.
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Hiya Peter thanks for chiming in.I've been aware of the flexshooter for a long time now probably not long after they came out due to our american friends. This vid by Scott Keys is a good watch

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=VcTDlJbSYfQ
 
I still have my 45 with X head if you are still interested Stuart, if so I’ll repost it here for you
 
Stuart Philpott said:
Can anyone tell me what novoflex is?
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Although I still use a Uniqball head (along with others) I can't add anything to what has already been said, but...

Novoflex make a wide range of very high quality camera accessories, of particular interest if you are into close up photography or photomacrography. They have a novel approach to kit design, as well as using more traditional designs

I have a reasonable collection of Novoflex kit, and have been impressed by everything I've bough from them. They are a bit pricey, but, for me, worth the money.

An example of a novel idea is the Magicball free 50. https://www.novoflex.de/en/products.../magicball-series/magicball-free-50-5848.html

This woks brilliantly with a long lens and a monopod allowing you to almost instantly attach and remove a camera , especially good for bird photography where you want to rapidly switch between handholding and "monopodding"
 
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