Used 60D hot pixel count

pastyman

pastyman

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Darrin
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Ok ,I picked up a used 60D the other day from a shop with warranty, now I did some (or tried) to do some shots with the Big Stopper the other evening, and had a shock with the results from my 5d3.
But that's another story, and decided to also see how the 60D performs, this file is untouched apart from being converted in DPP to jpeg.
In DPP at fit to screen size, I can count at least 20 blobby glowing dots. Done a bit of reading, and tried the cleaning methods with the cap on etc....I am wanting to do a lot with the big stopper, but am wondering if there is a minimum light level at which it can be used effectively.....

View the original file size on Flickr.......
What do you think?


60d pixels by cornishwelding, on Flickr
 
How badly do they show up in more real life conditions? Was that test picture a long exposure? Yes, the hot pixels do show up on a totally black background but may not be visible in a photograph with something in it. If they do and it really bugs you, return the camera otherwise live with it! I would say that your 5DIII was far betterv suited to low light shooting than the 60D, so at a slight loss as to why this is a big issue. Personally, unless the pixels show up on a normal picture at a reasonable print size, I would live with them and possibly clone out spots that do interfere with the picture.
 
It came to light (no pun intended) after actually using the mk3 and finding a shed load of noise, and around 15 hot pixels while shooting with the big stopper, at around 5 minute exposures. Several of the hot pixels were visible straight away at normal "fit to screen" size.

I did some hunting and came across several posts on the issue, so did the cleaning etc last night, and set long exposure noise reduction to on, and the 60D cleaned up real nice. The 5d3 though, still has several noticeable red and green ones left.

So iso 100, F11-16 at 5 mins is not out of the way, and I thought should not be full of noise and hot pixels, or am I asking too much?:shrug:

I will try the cleaning routine, live view to warm up the sensor etc again, and see what happens.
 
A 5min exposure will be enough to coax hot pixels out pretty much any sensor IMO. All of the Nikon DSLRs I've had have a long exposure noise reduction option to deal specifically with this problem. I would imagine that Canon also has a similar option as well.

Personally I think you're asking too much.

As has already been mentioned if you shoot in RAW then Lightroom and Aperture are very effective at removing these hot pixels right of the bat.

It's a limitation of digital photography at the moment, and is one area where film outperforms digital significantly.
 
I would be surprised of my D700 didn't show some hot pixies after a 5 minute exposure!

IIRC, they're caused by the sensor getting hot, so maybe warming the sensor up isn't a good idea.

What do you need 5 minute exposures for? Star trails? Personally, I use an old film body for them (and any exposures over 1 minute, TBH) precisely to avoid the hot pixel and long exposure noise issues. OK, there's reciprocity failure to take into account but colour rendition and pinpoint accurate exposures aren't an issue for star trails. For very long (10 minutes +) exposures, I have an old Russian viewfinder camera and a couple of lenses - completely mechanical so no worries about batteries dying 1/2 way through.
 
I was messing with the LEE Big Stopper on the 5D3, and from what I've seen around 3-5 minute exposures are not uncommon.

I always shoot raw, and even after DPP opened the file, and a few of the spots went, the remaining ones are what's showing in the test shot from the 60D file you see above. I only tried it with the 60D to test, and was quite shocked with the amount of hot spots compared to the 5D3

So if I want to get the sea to look like fog at sunset, how would you suggest I go about it?
 
Wait for fog to roll in! 1-2 minutes at a time and stack exposures? Personally (and, as my signature says, it's only my opinion!), I think the milky/foggy water effect has had its day. Pick a day when there's a bit of chop around and you'll need less time to get the milky effect. Skies tend to have more interest in those conditions too and the shorter exposure will leave clouds etc less blurred.
 
I don't know if the milky bit has had it's day, cos LEE big stoppers are like rocking horse poo to get hold off in a lot of places, and damned expensive:eek:

For newbies like myself, I think it's a right of passage to do the long exposure blurry bit:), and I want a few of the cornish coast to print up large for wall art, but without hot pixels:D
 
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