Using Godox Triggers with Nikon Flashes = frustration

Selsdon_PJS

Selsdon_PJS

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Phil
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I’ve just completed 40 Corporate Headshots in two days and whilst all parties are happy with the outcome, I was left frustrated by some flash misfiring albeit that could be down to my impatience, but I would appreciate some comments nonetheless.

My setup was Nikon D810, Godox X Pro trigger on camera, Godox X1R receivers on both an SB-910 and SB-700. In many cases it was fine as long as I left it a few seconds between shots but at times it was plain annoying. So I got there, but would have preferred a slightly less bumpy journey. After day one I googled this and changed a few settings but it didn’t really help. I moved the Channel to 25, the SBs to “Master” and made sure the trigger range was 0-30 rather than 1-100.

I’m thinking that a slightly simpler solution may help out such as buying a couple of Ving 860s to remain in the Godox ecosystem but hopefully speed things up. I would add that portability is essential here - I’m not going to cart my AD600 Pros and C stands on a tram, train and bus commute to the City of London. Although I did consider picking up some lighter weight mains powered lights except whatever reviews you read (thinking Elinchrom here) there are always horror stories.

Possibly for another forum but tethering let me down too but I may have myself to blame. I was using an Amazon basics cable connected to a 13” MacBook Air and when it worked it was fine, albeit a little slow, but when it didn’t it was a pain in the proverbial so for most of yesterday’s shoot I wasn’t able to use it. Where is the weak link here? Should I go for Tethertools cables? I may be seeking out a refurbished MacBook Pro soon so I would expect that to help too. But again, any thoughts/comments/suggestions would be gratefully received.
 
Hi Phil,

My bet would be on the flashes going to sleep (or the usual issues in the triggering chain of command - contact with the hot shoe, battery state in the triggers and receivers etc). Setting the flashes to "master" is not the answer though - at best if the Godox system emulates the camera hotshoe, (so the flashes think they are on the camera) it just gives them more to do, and you'd have to set the master up to actually contribute flash as well as "command" the other groups. It's a pretty random thing to do. Typically, you set Nikon flashes to "On", and in TTL mode (even when manually controlling power remotely) when on 3rd party TTL capable/remote manual radio systems. Try turning the sleep mode off on the flashes. I have a fleet of SB900's and I think I'm going to sell them off rather than buy Godox receivers for them (or just use them for on-camera event type stuff). The Godox V flashes have proper batteries in them and built in receivers - which all goes to speed up the workflow, and reduce the bag size ! Mind you the AD200 is fast turning into the Swiss Army knife of lights - with 3 flash head types, a (albeit complicated) widget for fitting two of them into an S-type adapter, an LED head and now a remote flash extension.

With tethering, whilst I found the older USB2 cameras like the D700 would perform flawlessly with any old cable, the USB3 based D8XX cameras do not. I tried amplified cables, but the one that works the best for me, is the simple TetherPro cable from Tethertools. It has no fancy amplification - just fatter wires. Plus it's orange so it means I don't mislay the camera so often :p It's rock solid when connected, however, the weak point in all of this is the "micro-b" plug design at the camera end. It becomes unreliable after moderate use. It just becomes loose and if the cable isn't in absolutely straight the connection fails. I currently attach it using the "Jerk Stopper" but I think the TetherBlock would provide a better solution. More robust socket types are needed for this - I'd rather the camera was made a bit bigger to accommodate things like RJ-45 sockets - or just built in WiFi...... There seems to be an obsession with making cameras smaller these days though - even to the point where they're difficult to hold!

Owen
 
Or is it just that you didn't wait for the flash guns to recycle properly, rather than a trigger problem? Were you using alkaline batteries at full power? That always takes a few seconds and alkaline batteries begin to slow down even after a few pops, and way longer if you're working them hard and the slow-down overheat protection kicks in (before they stop completely to cool).

If so, you really need more power. A workaround might be to turn them down to say 1/4 power and bump the ISO to compensate. They'll recycle very quickly then, and go much longer before overheating. Ni-MH batteries (eg Eneloop) recycle faster and the lithium powered Godox speedlights are much faster again, though both run the risk of allowing you to hit the overheat limit sooner ;)
 
Selsdon_PJS said:
In many cases it was fine as long as I left it a few seconds between shots but at times it was plain annoying
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I’m reading this as a recycling issue, that’s the downside of using speedlights at or near full power.

You can improve recycling time with an external power pack (which will increase the risk of overheating), or by seriously upgrading your lighting output potential.

The cheapest solution is a couple of mains powered flash heads, but if you want to be able to work without mains, a couple of AD200’s or their bigger brothers.

Edit: cross posted with Richard
 
I was generally using half power at most, and it is quite probable that it is me and my impatience at play here, to a degree.

Do you know if the AD200s would be comparable in performance with say an Elinchrom RX2?
 
Selsdon_PJS said:
I was generally using half power at most, and it is quite probable that it is me and my impatience at play here, to a degree.

Do you know if the AD200s would be comparable in performance with say an Elinchrom RX2?
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Comparable in basic max power output, but otherwise very different animals.
 
Scooter said:
I currently attach it using the "Jerk Stopper" but I think the TetherBlock would provide a better solution.
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Slightly OT.. I use reusable cable ties - one tight around the short camera cable just before the ferrite, and another one looped through the first one and the camera strap split ring. That guarantees that the join between the short camera cable and the long USB cable is the break point when I stand on the cable.

Selsdon_PJS said:
Possibly for another forum but tethering let me down too but I may have myself to blame. I was using an Amazon basics cable connected to a 13” MacBook Air and when it worked it was fine, albeit a little slow, but when it didn’t it was a pain in the proverbial so for most of yesterday’s shoot I wasn’t able to use it. Where is the weak link here? Should I go for Tethertools cables? I may be seeking out a refurbished MacBook Pro soon so I would expect that to help too. But again, any thoughts/comments/suggestions would be gratefully received.
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Which tethering software are you using? I find Smartshooter to be flawless (in it's current incarnation) but have struggled with other solutions.
 
Interesting idea re cable ties, I'll have a look at that.

I'm using Lightroom Classic CC, but will take a look at Smartshooter.

I've been digging around about the AD200s, they look very versatile indeed - any practical shortcomings I should be aware of before heading over to Lencarta?
 
Selsdon_PJS said:
Interesting idea re cable ties, I'll have a look at that.

I'm using Lightroom Classic CC, but will take a look at Smartshooter.

I've been digging around about the AD200s, they look very versatile indeed - any practical shortcomings I should be aware of before heading over to Lencarta?
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I’ve seen reports of short lifespan on the flash tubes, but I’m 99% certain it’s due to users not pushing them all the way home. Mine didn’t last long, but that was due to an 8ft fall onto the floor :oops: :$

I’d still say that if you’re doing headshots where there’s mains, then Godox monolights are the way to go (IIRC mine were about £80 each).
 
Selsdon_PJS said:
Lencarta SmartFlash 4 looks like it might fit the bill.
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Lencarta provide great customer service, but if you’re canny you can put very similar or the same kit together for less.

I can’t find the heads themselves on Lencarta site, but Godox DE300’s are about £83
 
An update to this following a number of additional Corporate Headshot shoots since taking on board the very helpful suggestions on here.

After looking at the various options I went for 2 x AD200s and they have been superb. Never missed a shot, batteries were excellent although I topped up the charge during a sandwich break just in case. I chose these as I couldn't always guarantee availability of mains power and overall they offer much more flexibility.

Tethering-wise I bought a TetherPro cable, and used Smartshooter on the month's trial but will purchase the full version. The fact that it allows me as a Nikon user to save to both cards in my D810 and an additional drive/external drive on the laptop is a major plus point.

So for the investment I ended up with solid support from my gear so that I could concentrate on the important part which is engagement with the clients. I'm pleased I now have a go-to setup that is also portable on the various forms of London Transport!
 
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