UWA and Circ Pl?

Charlatan

Charlatan

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I am currently purchasing better circular polarisers for an upcoming 8 month RTW trip and debating whether to bother on the Sigma 10-20mm. Will it be too wide to be useful? What I mean is will i get vignetting or will it be too wide a field of view to be useful across the whole image?

I am looking at the Hoya Pro1 or Hoya HD just now for the Sigma 10-20mm, the Nikon 18-200mm and the Nikon 50mm. Its just typical they are all different filter threads. :bang:

Also is it really worth going for the higher priced filters on average lenses? I have a cheap Hama cir pl that I had good results with in the past, is the difference going to be night and day?


Thanks in advance. :)
 
To cut down on vignetting you can get slim versions of cpl for uwa but they do tend to be the better specced versions so do tend to be even more expensive and occasionally i get darker 'patches' when strong sunlight hits at a particular angle.
 
hoolio said:
To cut down on vignetting you can get slim versions of cpl for uwa but they do tend to be the better specced versions so do tend to be even more expensive and occasionally i get darker 'patches' when strong sunlight hits at a particular angle.
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The Hoya HD is a 'thin' version but I am still unsure if it will be much use. Very conflicting information when I search.
 
Marumi!

Saw some great reviews and picked one up. It hasn't come off my 12-24mm Tokina UWA since then and never will!
 
I have a Hoya HD-1 Pro. On the 24-105 it ghets good use. I'm disappointed with it on the 17-40 because it doesn't give consistent results the wider you go. Makes the sky uneven due to the amount of sky you get in (the effect in the sky is maximum at 90deg to the sun and tails off outside that). This typically means you get a darker area of sky which leads to an unnatural looking picture. This isn't a feature of the particular CPL I have - it's a fact of life with wide angles and CPLs.

I use a full frame 5D2 - your crop will exhibit the same sort of unevenness at the shorter (10->??) lengths.
 
arad85 said:
I have a Hoya HD-1 Pro. On the 24-105 it ghets good use. I'm disappointed with it on the 17-40 because it doesn't give consistent results the wider you go. Makes the sky uneven due to the amount of sky you get in (the effect in the sky is maximum at 90deg to the sun and tails off outside that). This typically means you get a darker area of sky which leads to an unnatural looking picture. This isn't a feature of the particular CPL I have - it's a fact of life with wide angles and CPLs.

I use a full frame 5D2 - your crop will exhibit the same sort of unevenness at the shorter (10->??) lengths.
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Good advice. CPLs and UWAs really aren't a good combination much of the time.
 
Charlatan said:
I am looking at the Hoya Pro1 or Hoya HD just now for the Sigma 10-20mm, the Nikon 18-200mm and the Nikon 50mm. Its just typical they are all different filter threads. :bang:
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Get one CPL in the biggest size you need, and a few step-up rings. Job done.
 
I'v found a CPL useful on UWA to remove reflections occasionally as your often only looking to target a small area. Your Sigma 10-20 is also covering the 16-17mm range which can also sometimes be effective with a CPL on the sky.
 
StewartR said:
Get one CPL in the biggest size you need, and a few step-up rings. Job done.
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They are 52, 72 and 77. Would the 25mm leap not be too great for step up rings?

I feared the CPL and UWA combinations would be troublesome but hoped I could get away with it. Is there any inherent issues using a step down ring? So if I bought a 72 CPL but had a 77-72 ring as the 72 will be the most used lens.

Thanks again for the input.
 
Charlatan said:
They are 52, 72 and 77. Would the 25mm leap not be too great for step up rings?

I feared the CPL and UWA combinations would be troublesome but hoped I could get away with it. Is there any inherent issues using a step down ring? So if I bought a 72 CPL but had a 77-72 ring as the 72 will be the most used lens.

Thanks again for the input.
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So putting a smaller diameter cpl 72 onto a 77 diameter lens?
 
That may be so but if you think of the field of view of different focal lengths as a cone with long 300mm being very deep and 10mm very shallow, almost flat you will see why this is not a good idea, you will get a huge vignette.
 
...a massive vignette!!
 
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