Very Basic Light Meter Question

danny_bhoy

danny_bhoy

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So here's a noob question if ever there was one...although I've searched the net extensively and can't seem to get a straight answer.

I've got a Sekonic light meter to use with my new Fuji GW690ii....if I just want to meter for the general scene that's in front of me does the lumisphere point away from me (outwards towards the general scene) or towards me and the camera?

Cheers.
 
Point it towards the light source.

Lumi = light.

This may help Danny.

www.picturecorrect.com

Are You Using Your Light Meter Correctly?

A light meter is a handy device that helps you with calculating exposure. Some photographers point it at the camera, while others point it at the light source. So, what is the right way? Well, it depends on the look you’re after. Photographer Mark Wallace from Adorama explains how to use a light...
www.picturecorrect.com www.picturecorrect.com
 
GreenNinja67 said:
Point it towards the light source.

Lumi = light.

This may help Danny.

www.picturecorrect.com

Are You Using Your Light Meter Correctly?

A light meter is a handy device that helps you with calculating exposure. Some photographers point it at the camera, while others point it at the light source. So, what is the right way? Well, it depends on the look you’re after. Photographer Mark Wallace from Adorama explains how to use a light...
www.picturecorrect.com www.picturecorrect.com
Click to expand...

Thanks Terry - I did stumble up on that video while I was searching for an answer but I think it's geared more towards studio work with lights etc rather than, say, landscapes or outdoor portraits.

I'd experiment and try it both ways to see what works best but at 8 shots per roll and the price of film I'm trying to avoid that
 
The only thing you need to make sure of when using this light measurement provess is that the same light is falling on your meter as is falling on the subject.

Otherwise rhings can go very wrong :)

D
 
Stand in the subject position, and point towards the camera. You're using incident light metering, measuring the light falling on the subject, so you need to measure the light falling on the surfaces facing the camera.
 
Which model of Sekonic meter is it. On mine the lumisphere slides to the side to reveal the sensor. To use it to meter a remote scene you slide the lumisphere to the side and point the sensor at the scene. If you can get close to the subject then position the lumisphere over the sensor and point it at the camera.
 
sirch said:
Which model of Sekonic meter is it. On mine the lumisphere slides to the side to reveal the sensor. To use it to meter a remote scene you slide the lumisphere to the side and point the sensor at the scene. If you can get close to the subject then position the lumisphere over the sensor and point it at the camera.
Click to expand...

Amazing - this is exactly the info I needed and the rest of the internet failed to provide

Mines the Sekonic 308s and I'm sure that has the slidey lumisphere as well.
 
I hardly ever use my Sekonic 308 other than for reading incident light with the lumisphere diffuser. Same applied to all the other meters I own or have owned. I got into this habit when I bought a Weston Master with Invercone as I shot mainly slide film back then. Willid1 is right to warn of the consequences of measuring the light using this method when it doesn't match to light falling on the subject,
 
danny_bhoy said:
Amazing - this is exactly the info I needed and the rest of the internet failed to provide

Mines the Sekonic 308s and I'm sure that has the slidey lumisphere as well.
Click to expand...
Doesn't actually matter in most cases. With the light meter in incident mode (lumisphere/diffuser in place) the meter needs to see the intensity of light falling on the subject that will be reflected to the camera. In a large majority of natural light situations that is the same intensity of light that is falling on you. You can actually take an incident meter reading that is accurate for a scene that is miles away.

e.g. turn around and pretend you are the subject; point the meter towards the (virtual) camera and take a reading. Or hold it pointing back at you while you face your subject... just make sure it's not in your shadow.

You only need the reflected/spot meter function if you don't want an averaged/overall exposure reading (or if you are standing in shadow under some trees).
 
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I was always taught, if you point the meter at the scene remove/slide away the dome.
If you stand where your subject is and point the meter towards the camera then fit the dome

That said I still try to point the light meter so as to meter for the shadows.
 
Years ago (c1963) I used a Stitz selenium cell meter which was reflected light only. I soon saw that when pointing at a landscape even a small tilt towards the ground made a BIG difference to the reading, completely shaking my confidence. Then I read Victor Blackman's method in his AP column (put your hand in the same light as the subject, take a reading from the palm and open up a stop) and I've used it ever since. Even with Kodachrome.
 
Using meter in incident mode (hemisphere or translucent flat disk over the sensor), you aim the hemisphere at the camera position...you want it to meter the subject as seen by the lens.

Using meter in reflected mode (no hemisphere/translucent disk over sensor), you aim the sensor at the subject from camera position.

Using studio flash, and shooting transparency film, put flat disk on and aim at the Main source, then aim at the Fill source, in order to establish the ratio of illumination for contrast characteristic of the shot. But use hemisphere aimed at the Main for overall exposure of the shot, so that highlight detail of the transparency is 'protected' by the reading.

Using studio flash and shooting color neg film, use technique described above to ratio the lighting; then use hemisphere aimed at the camera, so that shadow detail is 'protected' by the reading.
 
StephenM said:
Years ago (c1963) I used a Stitz selenium cell meter which was reflected light only. I soon saw that when pointing at a landscape even a small tilt towards the ground made a BIG difference to the reading, completely shaking my confidence. Then I read Victor Blackman's method in his AP column (put your hand in the same light as the subject, take a reading from the palm and open up a stop) and I've used it ever since. Even with Kodachrome.
Click to expand...
I had my portrait taken by a wet plate photographer a couple of weeks ago and he used the off-hand reflected light reading to estimate the exposure. By the way, his estimate seemed to be bang on due to his experience with the medium and with the help of a meter reading.
 
sirch said:
Which model of Sekonic meter is it. On mine the lumisphere slides to the side to reveal the sensor. To use it to meter a remote scene you slide the lumisphere to the side and point the sensor at the scene. If you can get close to the subject then position the lumisphere over the sensor and point it at the camera.
Click to expand...
This is exactly how mine works.
 
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