Critique Very first images from new F100 Tri-X400 BW

manda

manda

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Amanda Herbert
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Hi all,

Slight cross post with my first Porta images here.

The below are literally my first images.

My question about this series are:

1. What BW would suit me better - I wanted to up the contrast on all these images. In digital I use 32000 LR presets for a high contrast look.

#1 Very first photo - should I have used exposure compensation -1 to correct the 18% grey correction by the camera?
Nikon F100 | Tri-X400 BW film by M@ndy, on Flickr

#2 Pushing the ISO to see what happens
Nikon F100 | Tri-X400 BW film by M@ndy, on Flickr

#3 Testing different lighting conditions
Nikon F100 | Tri-X400 BW film by M@ndy, on Flickr

#4
Nikon F100 | Tri-X400 BW film by M@ndy, on Flickr

#5 Testing how colours render in BW
Nikon F100 | Tri-X400 BW film by M@ndy, on Flickr

#6
Nikon F100 | Tri-X400 BW film by M@ndy, on Flickr

#7 Annoying my husband
Nikon F100 | Tri-X400 BW film by M@ndy, on Flickr
 
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Interesting set.... I thought I recognised Southampton Water and thought you might be on IoW Hobbytogs!
 
Spent too long on those things... moved away about 20 years ago!
 
I can't really offer anything in the way of critique, Amanda, but these look excellent to me. Lovely tones and some great moments captured. The one of your husband is ace and I really like the heating vent for some reason.

I must use my F100 more! It's now you who is inspiring me.
 
Congrats on your first film images. Careful, it can be a slippery slope! I'll see if I can help, but, as with any advice on the internet, take it with a grain of salt.

manda said:
Hi all,

1. What BW would suit me better - I wanted to up the contrast on all these images. In digital I use 32000 LR presets for a high contrast look.
Click to expand...

I can't comment regarding presets, as I only shoot film and, consequently, don't have much knowledge regarding such types of post processing techniques, but contrast with black and white films can be increased by simply developing for longer. Conversely, developing for less time would decrease contrast.

There are some films that are more contrasty than others, but I think that your exposures and development decisions will have a much bigger impact on the look of your images at the moment. Using colour filters can also help to increase contrast with regard to certain colours (e.g., a red filter will darken the sky).

manda said:
#1 Very first photo - should I have used exposure compensation -1 to correct the 18% grey correction by the camera?
Nikon F100 | Tri-X400 BW film by M@ndy, on Flickr
Click to expand...

Perhaps you might want to consider purchasing a handheld incident light meter if you are going to shoot film? Handheld meters make it very easy to get consistent exposures with film and they are especially great for portraits as you just put the meter in front of your subject, take the reading, and you know you have the exposure you need—no worries about guessing the right compensation and the meter getting fooled.

There are many different ways of working, so use whatever works for you, but I find an incident meter indispensable for shooting film.

manda said:
#2 Pushing the ISO to see what happens
Nikon F100 | Tri-X400 BW film by M@ndy, on Flickr
Click to expand...

I think I know what you're saying here, but, to avoid confusion later, 'pushing' in film photography refers only to extended development. If shooting at higher ISOs and developing normally, which is what I presume you've done here, you're just simply underexposing.

The opposite of pushing in film photography is pulling, whereby development time is decreased.

manda said:
#5 Testing how colours render in BW
Click to expand...

Colour sensitivity is dependent upon the film and, I believe, most films have data sheets available online that will indicate these sensitivities. The colour filters I mentioned earlier can also affect the rendering of colours. For portraits, some colour filters can make skin appear lighter and reduce or eliminate the appearance of blemishes, while others can emphasise freckles, etc.

There is a lot of information available online regarding the use of filters:

http://www.photographymad.com/pages/view/using-coloured-filters-in-black-and-white-photography
http://www.leefilters.com/index.php/camera/blackwhite
http://www.ilfordphoto.com/aboutus/page.asp?n=45

manda said:
Really give me tough CC about my use of film please. I was disappointed with this set as I don't have a vision of what the film can produce / how to use this film.
Click to expand...

I think that the choices that you make, not the film, will have the biggest impact on the look of your images at this point. You can control your exposure, your use of filters, your use of light, your development, etc. If using a lab, you have far less flexibility with regard to your development than you otherwise would, but any good lab will still be able to pull or push your film, if requested.

When you have a tighter control of these many variables (e.g, exposure, filters, development), your choice of film becomes more critical.

Tri-X is a pretty classic film that has been used by many different photographers in many different ways. Feel free to experiment with it with regard to exposure and development to get the look you're going for.

I hope this info is helpful in some way. :)
 
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skysh4rk said:
Congrats on your first film images. Careful, it can be a slippery slope! I'll see if I can help, but, as with any advice on the internet, take it with a grain of salt.



I can't comment regarding presets, as I only shoot film and, consequently, don't have much knowledge regarding such types of post processing techniques, but contrast with black and white films can be increased by simply developing for longer. Conversely, developing for less time would decrease contrast.

There are some films that are more contrasty than others, but I think that your exposures and development decisions will have a much bigger impact on the look of your images at the moment. Using colour filters can also help to increase contrast with regard to certain colours (e.g., a red filter will darken the sky).



Perhaps you might want to consider purchasing a handheld incident light meter if you are going to shoot film? Handheld meters make it very easy to get consistent exposures with film and they are especially great for portraits as you just put the meter in front of your subject, take the reading, and you know you have the exposure you need—no worries about guessing the right compensation and the meter getting fooled.

There are many different ways of working, so use whatever works for you, but I find an incident meter indispensable for shooting film.



I think I know what you're saying here, but, to avoid confusion later, 'pushing' in film photography refers only to extended development. If shooting at higher ISOs and developing normally, which is what I presume you've done here, you're just simply underexposing.

The opposite of pushing in film photography is pulling, whereby development time is decreased.



Colour sensitivity is dependent upon the film and, I believe, most films have data sheets available online that will indicate these sensitivities. The colour filters I mentioned earlier can also affect the rendering of colours. For portraits, some colour filters can make skin appear lighter and reduce or eliminate the appearance of blemishes, while others can emphasise freckles, etc.

There is a lot of information available online regarding the use of filters:

http://www.photographymad.com/pages/view/using-coloured-filters-in-black-and-white-photography
http://www.leefilters.com/index.php/camera/blackwhite
http://www.ilfordphoto.com/aboutus/page.asp?n=45



I think that the choices that you make, not the film, will have the biggest impact on the look of your images at this point. You can control your exposure, your use of filters, your use of light, your development, etc. If using a lab, you have far less flexibility with regard to your development than you otherwise would, but any good lab will still be able to pull or push your film, if requested.

When you have a tighter control of these many variables (e.g, exposure, filters, development), your choice of film becomes more critical.

Tri-X is a pretty classic film that has been used by many different photographers in many different ways. Feel free to experiment with it with regard to exposure and development to get the look you're going for.

I hope this info is helpful in some way. :)
Click to expand...

I'm incredibly grateful for this information - I'm on the app at the moment, but I will digest and reflect on how to craft my images.

This insight is exactly what I needed, so thanks for your generosity (& yes, I was changing my ISO to see what happened to the film.)

Mandy
 
Hi, I like the photos and a great start to B&W film....

Three books which I recommend if you are serious about learning the craft.

1 Perfect Exposure by Roger Hicks and Frances Schultz

2 Successful Black & White Photography by Roger Hicks

3 The Black and White Handbook by Roger Hicks and Frances Schultz

Just my opinion but they would give you a good start...

I do not think they are available new now but you will get them second hand from that well known river book shop.....

I wish you well as you continue your journey with film.
 
TriX is a very good film, very flexible and you could go for years using just that. Probably not quite as it originally was, but a good old-fashioned film that I love... although I'm trying other stuff at the moment. @skysh4rk is probably right, might make more sense to stick with TriX for a bit [sentence edited to mean more what I meant]. You'll love it. When the light gets a bit better there are some lovely slower films, ISO 100 or slower. I like Delta 100, but many swear by Acros 100 (never used it). PanF is terrific, ISO 50 so you need plenty of light or make up for it!

The first set look like good experiments, though generally as pictures I didn't find them all that interesting. But the last one is terrific, really wonderful. Looking forward to seeing more, both b&w and colour.
 
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