What developer do you use and why?

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puggie

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Trying to get an idea of what developers people use and why they chose them, what they think of them etc. Just to get an idea for what other people use and what I (and others) may be missing out on.

I use:
Paterson Aculux-3
Paterson FX-39
Kodak X-tol (well I have some not tried it yet)
I use these because they came bundled with my second hand developing tank, I've not mixed the X-tol up yet because I need to find a nice clean 5l glass bottle for it, I'll hopefully nab a couple of winchesters from chemistry stores at work shortly

the Aculux is a fine grain and can look nice and smooth but lack contrast (I print on multigrade paper so can claw some back using a 3-3.5 filter). The FX-39 has more impact (tried it with fomapan400) but came out with a very heavy grain, its designed for the tablature grained films like T-Max and Delta, I have some delta 400 to try it with.

Film wise I've used:
HP-5 in Aculux, lacked contrast, think I underdeveloped it.
Fomapan 400 in FX-39, grainy but quite high contrast
Adox CHS100 in Aculux, bit of grain, quite a vintage look to it
Rollei Retro 100 in Aculux, smoother than Adox

I have a roll of Fuji Neopan 1600 pushed to 3200 to dunk next and may try the X-tol on this. X-tol seems popular as does ID-11 and Rodinal from what I've seen.

So what are you using and what do you think of it?
 
At the moment I've got Perceptol and Ilfosol 3 on the go for black and white. Use the Perceptol for low grain shots, where it's nice and smooth - works well with the Ilford delta stock and with Fuji Acros 100/LegacyPro 100. For general purpose stuff, or for when I'm too impatient to wait for the Perceptol at 1+3, I'll use the Ilfosol 3. Oh - theres a bottle of Rodinal on the shelf too - kept for emergencies as it's shelf life is excellent.

For colour processing, I've got the Tetenal E6 and C41 kits, quite like them, but I'm not sure I'll be shooting enough colour to justify souping my own this year - this set of chem's will probably go off before I use them fully as it is :(
 
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Rodinal mostly, because it keeps well and it's econmical, and Tetenal E6 for colur although it tends to go off before I get to use much at the rate I shoot colour.
 
Anyone using Tetenal C41 kit, how do you dispose of you chemicals?
 
Xtol for most films because it's a great all round fine grain dev AND doesn't contain hydroquinone, which stinks :puke:
For high speed film I use Tmax dev as it suppresses the base fog quite well.
Then Ilford Rapid Fix, and a nice drop of Kodak Photflo
 
puggie said:
Anyone using Tetenal C41 kit, how do you dispose of you chemicals?
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Contact your local council and ask them what they recommend.


Edit: sorry if that appeared a little abrupt, was posting in middle of another task... Thing is, it does vary from area to area, as to what facilities are available. You could have a quiet word with a local independent minilab operator, and ask them if they had any ideas... just say you'd been using it for cross-processing experiments as you didn't want to gunk up their machines :LOL:
 
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Prescysol because it's awesome (great tones, practically no grain), or Rodinal becuase it's very versatile and cheap. Will try mixing some caffinol when one of them runs out.
 
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Ilford ID-11 with Ilford films as I like the tones and grain structure, but i am looking to try some Kodak D-76 whihc I bellieve is very similar

At the momnet thoguh I am using Rodinal for nearly everything, 1600, 400, 200 films.

Films still experimenting I like the Delta films, don't like PanF, using Neopan 400 which I like, going to try Kodak Tri-X 400 soom as well.
 
Very similar??? Its identical to ID-11 apart from its in one packet instead of two and has very minor differences in some of the formulae. It apparently gives the exact same results anyway as its so similar.
 
Up till now I have been using rodinal but from now on I am going to use..

Film: Tmax 100 (135/12)
Developer: Tmax developer

Film: Fomapan/Ilford FP4 (5x4)
Developer: yet to be decided.. (whats best)

I am going to try and sort my developing out so that I can get decent results every time.
 
I use Tri-x or XP2 with Rodinal mostly, and Ilford Fixer. I think I settled on that mostly from actually looking at Flickr and other places for the sort of look I wanted though I suspect a large amount of the look comes from the scanner and digital processing.
 
Tri-x or fp4 in XTOL 1-1.
Used to use id11 but switched to XTOL recently as it gave me better results and is more environment friendly.
 
At the moment Rodinal, its cheap and easy. Have some ID-11 to try, but now looking for the best results from formapan 5 x 4, so will be going through a few.

Mart
 
Edtog said:
Tri-x or fp4 in XTOL 1-1.
Used to use id11 but switched to XTOL recently as it gave me better results and is more environment friendly.
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Do you recommend XTOL with FP4?

Marvin d martian said:
At the moment Rodinal, its cheap and easy. Have some ID-11 to try, but now looking for the best results from formapan 5 x 4, so will be going through a few.

Mart
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Let me know how you get on with fomapan, it caused me a few problems when I started developing it in rodinal (using the taco method)
 
Works OK for me, lovely wide tonal range and it keeps for a long time in stock solution.
5x4 Ilford FP4+ XTOL 1+1

Like most things photography it's not an exact science so best to do your own tests for the results you want.

I've always been more interested in the image than using a developer 1:10000 and letting it stand for 6 days, whilst you sing the national anthem backwards standing on one leg.
A bit of grain gives the image more depth and character.
I've handled an original Mcullin print from around 1976. Shot on Tri-X, wonderfully grainy but it adds to the image.

I've got a box of Formapan 100 which I use for test shots. It's best rated at iso80 if you are using XTOL 1+1 as it's not as fast as the box speed. Doesn't hold much detail in the shadows but a nice looking film for certain applications.
 
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I might have to get some XTOL then, I know what you mean about shadow detail in fomapan it just goes black for me :(

How do you develop 5x4 as the taco method really isn't working for me at the moment.
 
Jobo Expert Drum with a CPP-2 :) Best way by far, expensive initially but pays for itself, eventually.

I've tried the taco method and results were OK, apart from getting rid of the anti halation layer where the band was, nothing a quick slosh in a tray afterwards didn't cure.
What problems are you having?
 
Sorry to sidetrack the thread but I was initially having uneven development but I think I have fixed that by agitating more. The new problem seems to be the corners of the negative not developing properly. I have a feeling this is due to the tank lid bending the negative slightly, maybe I just need more developer.

I am so tempted just to get a 6x7 (again) and use 5x4 for colour...
 
I use XTOL because it's cheap.
I used to use Ilfosol S or 3 but I found XTOL to be cheaper.
I want to try Prescysol, I hear it's awesome.
I've used Ilford LC29 before but the results just didn't do it for me. Too cheap probably.
 
I'm using microphen and that's the only thing I've used since I developed my first B&W a few months back, and I'm using that because that's the only thing my local camera shop had in stock. I got 20 rolls of the last of the LegacyPro 400 film. I'm quite happy with it, but it seems a little lacking in contrast (post processing on the PC smartens it up). Once I've worked my way through it, I'll try some Rodinal. I should have plenty of LegacyPro left to see the difference.
Shot one roll at 1600ISO over Christmas, quality indistinguishable (to my eyes) to 400. Might try shooting and developing at 3200 while the days are so grey.
I need to shoot more B&W though before my stock spoils.
 
Liam said:
I wouldn't develop 3200 film in rodinal as it will be very grainy!
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My mistake, I got a bit garbled! I meant, when I've run out of Microphen I'll try Rodinal. I have enough Microphen for a few more rolls, I'll try running one of those through at 3200. I'll expect grain.

When I move on to Rodinal, I'll do a few rolls by the book before experimenting with pulling/pushing/stand developing etc.
 
I quite like rodinal, I have heard good things about 1:100 stand development but I have never tried it.
 
I have only used ID-11 because that is what I bought but I have since been given some Perceptol and Rodinal (I think). Would like to see a selection of films with the different developers.
 
Rodinal for me, it seems to be versatile and cheap, and gives consistent results. I will get round to trying others but I haven't decided what yet. I have used other developer in the past but that was 30 years ago and I have no idea what that was :shrug:
 
Rodinal for me. I even develop my 3200 pushed to 6400 in it, I find the grain OK at least in 120.
92784831.jpg

I don't find Rodinal that much more grainy than other developers, possibly a little but not enough to worry about.
 
Thats really good!

I developed some delta 400 in rodinal (135) and it was very grainy!
 
cowasaki said:
Would like to see a selection of films with the different developers.
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Filmdev.org is probably the place to go for a look then!

Interestingly, if you look at this link, Rodinal seems to be the most popular there, which is one of the reasons I want to have a go at it. While many seem to swear by their preferred developer, most seem to have a bottle of Rodinal a) because it's flexible b) because it's cheap and c) it has a long shelf life.

For what it's worth, here is a shot metered (using sunny 16), shot and developed at iso 400:
Scan1345.jpg

Shadows and sharpness boosted a bit pp.

And here is a shot metered (using camera meter), shot and developed as 1600 (i.e. pushed two stops):
Scan1425.jpg

Again shadows and sharpness boosted.

Both shots were taken the same day at roughly the same time in the same location and on LegacyPro400 and developed in microphen at 1+3 using times on massive dev chart.
To my eyes, there isn't that much more grain on the iso 1600. I'd like to be able to get a greater contrast range than I'm getting at the moment, but don't know if that's the film, the developer/developing or the scanner that's holding me back, or I just need to expect to do post processing to get the most.
 
I use ID-11 because it's what came with my kit; I'll probably stick with it as I'm really pleased with the results and I don't want to mess up a good thing. I make it to stock solution and re-use it, making it really simple and fast.

ped
 
I have just bought some Tmax developer to use with tmax films, if I mix it 1:4 does anyone know how long it will last if in a container?
 
Just used some Fotospeed FD10 to develop some Delta100 & some Acros 100 and the results are great, easy to use good tones and virtualy no grain, just thought folks wouuld like to know.

Cheers,

Mart
 
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ID-11 for me!

Used it since forever and don't really know anything else...:naughty:

Am I missing something?
 
Yes, XTOL ;) I used to use ID-11 and switched recently, never going back.
 
Edtog said:
Yes, XTOL ;) I used to use ID-11 and switched recently, never going back.
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You Northeners don't play fair!:p:D

I have to import PanF and provia 400 120 slide directly because NO-ONE in the country stocks it!

(y)
 
Microphen for me, 'though don't actually use the speed increase very often. I use Ilford Delta 100, HP4 and HP5.

Bought some Adox 50 and 100 quarter plates, and it seemed a bit flat looking in Microphen. It likes Rodinal so much more.
 
currently using Rodinol and/or ID-11. Much prefer the latter.
 
Firstcall Photographic Rodinal One Shot, largely because it's extremely cheap, uses a great packaging design that means it will 'keep' for ages and is liquid, allowing me to mix small quantities which is kind of a necessity due to the extremely slow rate i seem to be getting through films.
 
Rodinal. I always get decent results and it is, in my opinion, fine grained. I use an Agfa Rondinax tank, which I know isn't everybody's cup of tea.;)
 
FD10 until recently, now trying RO9 (Rodinal ) for 1+100 stand dev. Going to try RO9 at normal dilution/agitation with the roll of T-Max I just bought.
 
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