what do I adjust first???

shaylou

shaylou

Messages
1,781
Name
Shayne
Edit My Images
No
Hello advisers, I'm a newbe to this so here is my question.
Using full manuel, bright day, no movement on subject, 18×55 lens (for now lol).
What setting should I adjust first? Iso, shutter speed, f-stop?
My guess was iso. I try to see how low of an iso I can get away with and then adjust shutter and apiture. Dont worry you will not offend me by telling how wrong I'm doing this. I have been a photographer for a whopping 3 weeks! I use the term very loosely. So hope to here from you soon the perfect light will be here in 30 minutes. Haha...
 
Switch the mode to AV. Practice with different apertures. Learn more before usung Manual
For moving subjects use SV, and a fast shutter speed. Practise with different speeds
If unsure use P mode, and look how the camera choose settings against the resulting images.

Start with 100 iso in beright conditions and higher the more light you lose. Compare images with settings used.
 
Last edited:
If its a bright day, then the ISO should be at it's lowest default setting.
When shooting in manual mode, it really makes no odds what you do first, as you will already know before hand what setting you will be using roughly anyway.

However hypothetically It's up to you to decide what effect you want before changing anything else. If you know you want a shallow DOF then adjust the aperture to get the desired effect, if you want to freeze or introduce motion, then change the shutter speed to the desired effect.

I would advise maybe not using manual mode until you are fully aware ow to use it, but stick with either shutter priority or aperture priority.
 
The "sunny 16" rule is worth remembering when going manual.

My camera has a lowest iso setting of 200 so I select the closest shutter speed to this iso which is 1/250s.

Once this is set then I can choose f/16 for bright sun, f/11 for bright overcast, f/8 for normal overcast and f/5.6 for heavy overcast.

This is a pretty handy rule when shooting manual :cool:
 
TCR4x4 said:
It's up to you to decide what effect you want before changing anything else. If you know you want a shallow DOF then adjust the aperture to get the desired effect, if you want to freeze or introduce motion, then change the shutter speed to the desired effect.
Click to expand...

:plusone:

There's 3 factors governing correct exposure. Shutter speed, aperture and ISO

Work with your shutter speed and aperture first and IF you're stuck - consider the ISO....

If depth of focus is key - select your aperture to suit, stick with it, then find the shutter speed that gives you the correct exposure.

If movement is key - select the shutter speed to suit, stick with it, then find the aperture that gives you the correct exposure.

IF you reach the point that (having set your important fixed shutter speed or aperture) you can't set the other to get correct exposure - use the ISO as the third variable to allow it.
 
Last edited:
NigelPaul said:
Switch the mode to AV. Practice with different apertures. Learn more before usung Manual
For moving subjects use SV, and a fast shutter speed. Practise with different speeds
If unsure use P mode, and look how the camera choose settings against the resulting images.

Start with 100 iso in beright conditions and higher the more light you lose. Compare images with settings used.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply. I used the priority modes to get started along with a lot of reading. I took over 700 shoots with every combo i could come up with, uploaded them and explored the effects of the settimgs. I got a basic understanding of exposure and now want to explore how they effect my pictures in manual mode.
 
TCR4x4 said:
If its a bright day, then the ISO should be at it's lowest default setting.
When shooting in manual mode, it really makes no odds what you do first, as you will already know before hand what setting you will be using roughly anyway.

However hypothetically It's up to you to decide what effect you want before changing anything else. If you know you want a shallow DOF then adjust the aperture to get the desired effect, if you want to freeze or introduce motion, then change the shutter speed to the desired effect.

I would advise maybe not using manual mode until you are fully aware ow to use it, but stick with either shutter priority or aperture priority.
Click to expand...

Great answer. I went out and took a bunch of shoots in manual mode. By the time I was done I realized that figuring out the subject is first. What I learned today was to figure out what is most important to the shoot, make that adjustment first and set the other adjustments around that. I'm having so much fun I can hardly stand it! Thanks a lot for your help.
 
boliston said:
The "sunny 16" rule is worth remembering when going manual.

My camera has a lowest iso setting of 200 so I select the closest shutter speed to this iso which is 1/250s.

Once this is set then I can choose f/16 for bright sun, f/11 for bright overcast, f/8 for normal overcast and f/5.6 for heavy overcast.

This is a pretty handy rule when shooting manual :cool:
Click to expand...

Nice! You just made me realize that my shutter speed is way slow. I was never getting above F7 or so. The pic was coming out too bright or over exposed. If my thought is correct, increasing my shutter speed will allow me to raise my apiture to the proper spot. Sweetness!!! Can't wait to try it. Thanks so much.
 
Well that's great. So you now have an idea of what makes up exposure plus how to create shallow depth or deep depth of field and how to freeze stuff, or have movement etc. You will also know to use a low ISO in bright conditions and increase it when the light falls. If you understand this you shouldn't have too much trouble going manual...But only if you need to. The other replies are great, and the sunny 16 rule is great, but depending on what you want to achieve, another mode may be your answer. Of course, with the knowledge you've learnt, practice in manual and record your results and learn more from them. And if you still have any probs, I and I know others on here will gladly help.

Manual mode is great, but most stuff can be done in other modes. What is it you like to shoot?
 
NigelPaul said:
Well that's great. So you now have an idea of what makes up exposure plus how to create shallow depth or deep depth of field and how to freeze stuff, or have movement etc. You will also know to use a low ISO in bright conditions and increase it when the light falls. If you understand this you shouldn't have too much trouble going manual...But only if you need to. The other replies are great, and the sunny 16 rule is great, but depending on what you want to achieve, another mode may be your answer. Of course, with the knowledge you've learnt, practice in manual and record your results and learn more from them. And if you still have any probs, I and I know others on here will gladly help.

Manual mode is great, but most stuff can be done in other modes. What is it you like to shoot?
Click to expand...

I'm not sure if I have a favorite subject to shoot. I like animals and I travel to Asia a couple of times a year and always end up on a tropical island. So beaches are definitely on top of the list. With both scenarios it seems that the bright sunlight is an issue. I am trying to figure out what filter to use to better my shoots. Oh, just for kicks I took my first shoot in total darkness tonight. Took a couple of tries but I pulled it off. Shutter speeds are way cool...
 
the way i look at it the exposure triange as its called, 3 elements each with its own limitations
iso = noise
aperture = hyperfocal distance
shutter speed = blur

you should think what is most important to you, ie if its landscape, then you will want a small aperture, then you will want low noise so iso 100, so you are left with shutter speed, you will need a tripod!

if its fast action, shutter speed might be first then aperture followed by iso or iso followed by aperture,

just weigh up the 3 areas and thats it, there is no hard and fast rule
 
dickie said:
the way i look at it the exposure triange as its called, 3 elements each with its own limitations
iso = noise
aperture = hyperfocal distance
shutter speed = blur

you should think what is most important to you, ie if its landscape, then you will want a small aperture, then you will want low noise so iso 100, so you are left with shutter speed, you will need a tripod!

if its fast action, shutter speed might be first then aperture followed by iso or iso followed by aperture,

just weigh up the 3 areas and thats it, there is no hard and fast rule
Click to expand...

Yes that is what I figured out with help from you guys. I need to figure the priority of the subject being shoot and adjust around that priority. Thank you for your help. I didn't realize that photographers were so willing to help us nebees. That is a great bonus to my new hobby.
 
I'd suggest reading 'understanding exposure' by Brian Peterson as this allowed me to understand how an exposure works with the 3 factors. Well worth it IMHO!
 
It's down to your personal preferrence which exposure settings you adjust first & reading books/asking for guidance isn't a bad thing, but experimenting with manual exposures for yourself will give a muchhh better understanding. As an experimental/enthusiast photographer I adjust my ISO, my aperture & then my shutter speed will usually be used last to balance the exposure correctly.

It's all about building a relationship with light & controlling how your camera uses that light to record your vision.
 
Last edited:
IamAshlyRose said:
It's down to your personal preferrence which exposure settings you adjust first & reading books/asking for guidance isn't a bad thing, but experimenting with manual exposures for yourself will give a muchhh better understanding. As an experimental/enthusiast photographer I adjust my ISO, my aperture & then my shutter speed will usually be used last to balance the exposure correctly.

It's all about building a relationship with light & controlling how your camera uses that light to record your vision.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply. I have been reading so much I think my brain is going to explode. Lol. I started in priority mode and now in full manual (First day). I took a lot of shoots today but frankly I was a bit frustrated by the end of the day. No worries, I'm up for the challenge. There's a lot to learn....
 
@shaylou Hahaha I felt the same way but just keep experimenting with the adjustments without expecting to capture some amazing shots & without that expectation it all comes a tad more naturally ~ in my experience at least!
 
Dont be afraid to use program mode either believe me your camera generally using a low iso unless the light is poor then go higher say 800+ your meter will get it right 90% of the time.
Use a smaller aperture if you want more in focus a wider one if you want the subject to stand out more against a blurred background in AV mode, or a higher shutter speed to stop movement or a lower on to blur the movement in SP mode. Photography is a compromise one way or another there is no right or wrong its better to concentrate on the subject than worry about the mode you use. By the time you've thought about it often the moment has gone. Happy shooting!

http://www.tonybarberphotography.co.uk
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hotshots said:
ISO is what you adjust 1st, The lower the better.
Click to expand...

Not necessarily, it depends on what you want to achieve.

In sport for example, you meter for aperture and shutter speed and then change the ISO as necessary. Therefore aperture gets set/adjusted first, set appropriate shutter speed and then adjust ISO if it's not fast enough.
 
DemiLion said:
Not necessarily, it depends on what you want to achieve.

In sport for example, you meter for aperture and shutter speed and then change the ISO as necessary. Therefore aperture gets set/adjusted first, set appropriate shutter speed and then adjust ISO if it's not fast enough.
Click to expand...

Thats an interesting view of the situation, very post-digital.

I always set the ISO first, as if I was using film and had no choice. I will then adjust the ISO only when necessary to get a shot.
 
Read that book mate as you can adjust any of the 3 settings but it all depends on what you want to achieve. Brian calls it 'creative exposure'.
 
I didn't realise that digital was over yet?

My camera is set to f/5.6 ISO400 by default. I'll test and adjust from there according to needs and light.
 
Hotshots said:
ISO is what you adjust 1st, The lower the better.
Click to expand...

Definitely second this. The lower the ISO the better. & I always set my Aperture wider than f/2.8.
 
Last edited:
IamAshlyRose said:
@shaylou Hahaha I felt the same way but just keep experimenting with the adjustments without expecting to capture some amazing shots & without that expectation it all comes a tad more naturally ~ in my experience at least!
Click to expand...

Your so right. Yesterday was so frustrating but today I got some good shoots. :) well good for a beginner on his 3rd week. Every time I shoot I learn so much but also come home with a bunch of new questions.. I'm having a blast!!!
 
tonybarber253 said:
Dont be afraid to use program mode either believe me your camera generally using a low iso unless the light is poor then go higher say 800+ your meter will get it right 90% of the time.
Use a smaller aperture if you want more in focus a wider one if you want the subject to stand out more against a blurred background in AV mode, or a higher shutter speed to stop movement or a lower on to blur the movement in SP mode. Photography is a compromise one way or another there is no right or wrong its better to concentrate on the subject than worry about the mode you use. By the time you've thought about it often the moment has gone. Happy shooting!

http://www.tonybarberphotography.co.uk
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advise. I used the program mode for one day to see how it would react to different situations but I moved to full manuel and have no plans of going back at this point. I am passionate about learning this, I spend every extra minute reading, asking questions (as you see), taking shoots and reviewing the pictures vs settings vs outcome. Thanks again for the advise.
 
RSMarco said:
Read that book mate as you can adjust any of the 3 settings but it all depends on what you want to achieve. Brian calls it 'creative exposure'.
Click to expand...

From what I learned in the last week you are all correct. Lower iso = best picture quality but in some cases trying to stop the action will be the priority so you need to adjust around that. It's all situational. See I am listening to you guys... (I sure hope I was somewhat correct on this). Haha...
 
Jayst84 said:
Of course it depends what you're shooting, and what you want to achieve, but ISO is often the least important.

Aperture and shutter-speed have an impact on the image created (unless everything is static). ISO is the tool to let you set the other more important parameters where you want them.
Click to expand...

I been taught that iso should always be the lowest that you can get away with. 100/200 daylight and increase as light is lost. I was shooting today on a bright sunshiny day but did not seem to get enough light in despite other adjustments. I was already at the largest apiture f4.5 and at 60 on the shutter speed but still did not have enough light so I was forced to raise the iso to compensate. Is this normal in the middle of the day? Granted I might of overlooked something even though I have a sold 27 days experience in photography. Lol. Thoughts??
 
shaylou said:
I been taught that iso should always be the lowest that you can get away with. 100/200 daylight and increase as light is lost. I was shooting today on a bright sunshiny day but did not seem to get enough light in despite other adjustments. I was already at the largest apiture f4.5 and at 60 on the shutter speed but still did not have enough light so I was forced to raise the iso to compensate. Is this normal in the middle of the day? Granted I might of overlooked something even though I have a sold 27 days experience in photography. Lol. Thoughts??
Click to expand...

Modern cameras (and software) are very good at dealing with noise, so while you should aim for lower ISOs when possible, it's not something you should stress about.

If you want to shoot at f/8 for the depth of field, you're better off raising the ISO and shooting at f/8 rather than shooting at f2.8 (and ending up with a completely different shot) for the sake of preventing noise.

Likewise, there's no point risking a blurry shot with a slow shutter speed, when you could just raise the ISO.

As for your situation, well, if you were shooting something in strong, direct sun, then those settings would overexpose it by a long way. Too many possible variables to know without seeing an image though. Best way to learn is to show your photos to people who know, and ask for feedback. :thumbs:
 
Jayst84 said:
Modern cameras (and software) are very good at dealing with noise, so while you should aim for lower ISOs when possible, it's not something you should stress about.

If you want to shoot at f/8 for the depth of field, you're better off raising the ISO and shooting at f/8 rather than shooting at f2.8 (and ending up with a completely different shot) for the sake of preventing noise.

Likewise, there's no point risking a blurry shot with a slow shutter speed, when you could just raise the ISO.

As for your situation, well, if you were shooting something in strong, direct sun, then those settings would overexpose it by a long way. Too many possible variables to know without seeing an image though. Best way to learn is to show your photos to people who know, and ask for feedback. :thumbs:
Click to expand...

Thanks for your help good advise. I won't stress over it again (you got me) I was... I'll simply make the adjustments.
One thing I didn't mention was I was facing the sunlight for a wail and couldn't get anything to go right until I repositioned. The other thing I came across was that I was positioned in the shade and taking pics of things that were in the light. Are there any special rules for that situation.
 
shaylou said:
Thanks for your help good advise. I won't stress over it again (you got me) I was... I'll simply make the adjustments.
One thing I didn't mention was I was facing the sunlight for a wail and couldn't get anything to go right until I repositioned. The other thing I came across was that I was positioned in the shade and taking pics of things that were in the light. Are there any special rules for that situation.
Click to expand...

If you're shooting directly into the sun and using any of the auto modes, then you may need to add a lot of exposure compensation to get what you want. Practice makes perfect, as always.

No special rules, the light you're stood in shouldn't have any effect on your metering as the camera will read from what's in the frame.
 
DemiLion said:
I didn't realise that digital was over yet?

My camera is set to f/5.6 ISO400 by default. I'll test and adjust from there according to needs and light.
Click to expand...

I meant post- digitalisation or digital revolution :)

Clearly on film days our choice of ISO was important as we had to stick with it for 36 shots ( about 400 in digital clicks)
 
Totally agree with reading the Bryan Peterson book. double thumbs up for that.

A lot of good advice here.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top