what flash if any

KingJohn said:
Private road, only my road and my house effected, however you take things to serious, yes i can control it, originally set at 75% not 50% as it was suppose to be, i worked for them for 10 years, they know who connects to it
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I don't take public safety and hacking too seriously.

It may have helped if you hadn't been so flippant about what you are doing and explained more.

I stand by my post :)
 
So, while taking photos, i am paying attention. Tonight iso,aperture and shutter speed in manual mode

However its night time ha ha, so hope we have more sun shine for me to practice.

Will take a photo in auto mode, then try these settings and take same photo.

Iso, 800, its going to be good light
Aperture, F4 to try blur
Shutter speed, try low settings

I will take a photo for each re adjustment when i get a reasonable photo.
 
KingJohn said:
So, while taking photos, i am paying attention. Tonight iso,aperture and shutter speed in manual mode

However its night time ha ha, so hope we have more sun shine for me to practice.

Will take a photo in auto mode, then try these settings and take same photo.

Iso, 800, its going to be good light
Aperture, F4 to try blur
Shutter speed, try low settings

I will take a photo for each re adjustment when i get a reasonable photo.
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Ehh??? Are you trying to get motion blur? ISO 800, f/4 and good light will give you a fast shutterspeed with the opposite effect. Concentrate on fstop and shutterspeed for effects and adjust ISO accordingly. Maybe even use autoiso and monitor the changes in ISO when reviewing the results.
 
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Motion blur is easy, no im trying to match a photo thats taken in auto mode exactly, to know what the settings would be
 
What do you expect to learn from that exercise?
 
soeren said:
What do you expect to learn from that exercise?
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I guess it's helpful for newcomers to see that with a certain combination of shutter speed, lens aperture and ISO settings, the result is identical whether in manual or in any one of the auto modes (providing the light doesn't change in between).

The other thing is, manual is really better described as a 'set and lock' mode. Locking down settings in manual is its most useful function.
 
KingJohn said:
Motion blur is easy, no im trying to match a photo thats taken in auto mode exactly, to know what the settings would be
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The problem with ‘engineers’ and why ‘artists’ advise not to obsess about ‘settings’.

A set of settings from one image will NOT guarantee the same result in a different scenario.

The important factors are shutter speed which will give a different length of raindrop, but more importantly, the amount of rain and direction of light* are the key factors.

The interesting image can be created by balancing a secondary light source with the natural.

But you’ve been told this in several different ways now, the big problem with Internet forums is simply learning which opinions are likely to be most useful.
 
When people first get started all these settings are meaningless. Therefore I will learn to use manual mode in a moment of time, during which i will see the many close settings and know what to adjust. The next shot im sure will need diffrent settings but now i will know what to change.

The good thing is the manual settings will be saved, and ill be ready to tweek them. Im never going to learn anything in auto mode really

We all need to know what the settings are no matter what, and know what to change after taking a photo thats not right.

Im very sure a professional will know all 3 settings to get ready to tweek them at that moment in time
 
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KingJohn said:
Therefore I will learn to use manual mode in a moment of time, during which i will see the many close settings and know what to adjust. The next shot im sure will need diffrent settings but now i will know what to change.
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I can’t state strongly enough, it’s not the best approach to photography and is simply the slowest way to learn.
KingJohn said:
Im very sure a professional will know all 3 settings to get ready to tweek them at that moment in time
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And I’m telling you that a ‘professional’ wouldn’t care what the ‘settings’ are because settings are dependent on the conditions at the time not the shot. They’re unimportant to the point of misleading, you’ve got the choice between making pictures or studying numbers, the numbers might help a bit, but it takes a long time. Making pictures gives happiness, and drives us on to make better ones.
I’ll say it again, photography is about ‘light’ always was, always will be. If you want to study something to create repeatable results, study light not ‘settings’.
 
If you really want to I would suggest to put the camera on A and take some pictures raising the ISO incrementally. Find the MAX ISO youre happy with. Since you know what the shutter speed does set the camera to Av and see what the apperture does. What I find important is to know how the meter works so I can avoid over- and severe underexposure without chimping. Then go shoot, make mistakes, learn from them embrace the happy accidents, learn from them and shoot some more. To me photography is about having fun not scientific studies.
 
Phil V said:
I can’t state strongly enough, it’s not the best approach to photography and is simply the slowest way to learn.
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I can't really agree... manual mode is more like controlled experimentation and it's obvious exactly why/what changed because you did it. Automation can be a lot more convoluted/confusing until you get to the point of already understanding manual control and the exposure triangle.

It might be slower in terms of generating images... but I don't think it's slower in getting to the point of understanding and intentional control/creation.
 
KingJohn said:
Ive taken lots of photos with the flash operation (didnt know how to switch it off) but have been looking at those programmable flash units that have their own battery, lcd display, and can be setup to produce a huge flash of diffrent types.

Do i need one? If you found the internal flash didnt do what you wanted could you advice?

During my search to take photos of rain strands i was told an external flash producing more than the internal would help.

Right now im learning fast, i have ideas of what i want and so making a list of things, tripod too soon
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Are you trying to cature the rain ie freeze it or show a slight blurr to show movement ! >

If it is to capture rain then the technique is a flash or strong light that hits the rain from behind and out of view of frame.
So a popup flash will not work and a cheap speedlite is the answer. Do not get new manufactures model ( unless a good deal on used model ) as there are plenty of cheap Chinese versions like Godox & Yongnuo
Personally I get a Godox as they have built in wireless function.

What camera are you using ! ?
 
@Tysonator

Thanks for that, i was saying there is a street light down my private road, and perhaps it may provide the backlighting needed.

I will have a look at what your suggest and see whats available. Could the backlighting be used for other purposes?

Today it rained and i took lots of photos but didnt capture any of the streaks in the air, with tge thought of needing backlighting only street lights were there and i couldnt see the rain, so couldnt capture it

I bought a new lens 18 to 300 mm which is my default lens now

Nikon AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-300mm F/3.5-6.3G ED VR Wide Angle & Telephoto Lens
 

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Got some rain photos, will upload in other thread
 
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