What sort of distances will a long lens achieve ( bird photography)

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Hello all,

I'm not a full on twitcher but I do like to try and recognize birds I see when out and about with my dogs in the countryside. My plan is to use my Sony A6000 and a m42 lens (cheapness) to help me identify birds that I come across but I was wondering roughly what distances I could get a reasonable photo from with the various size lenses. The commonly available sizes seem to be 300-400-500mm and most of the birds that spark my interest are birds of prey so fairly large. Can anyone give me any rough ideas ? I know there are some variables but rough distances would be a help. At this length would I have no choice but to use a tripod ? The camera will give me a 1.5 crop factor as it has a APSC sensor.

Thanks all.
 
Have a look at this page - https://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/camera-lenses.htm

Scroll down to the "Required focal length calculator"

I think it is intended to help you to determine what lens you would need to fill the frame with the particular bird/animal.

It is not ideal because it requires you to know both the distance to the subject and the size of the subject, but it might be a start.

The advantage you have is your interest in BoP, but the disadvantage is the big ones are likely far away.

Dave
 
the simple reply is forget it ..

you need a A/F lens not M/F
 
Really?

So no bird photos were taken prior to AF being available?

I used to hold a press pass at Brands Hatch in the 90's using manual focus Canon FD lenses.

If you know your subject and kit you can snap focus after a little practice.

I did it all the time.
agreed IF you know what your doing and IF you match the camera and lens up correctly . but by the sound of it brad doesn't and I was simply trying to save him money . IF you have to ask the question then it implies your not going to have the experience to learn how to shoot manual focus . a better option for him would be a bridge camera.
I can do it you can but will a beginner be able to
 
Very rough guide to your question

400mm on an APSC camera will have a kestral at 50yds about 10mm big

Magpie at 10yds would be reasonably big in the frame may be half the image
 
Is the point is to identify birds rather than take good pictures of them? If so you'll be using the camera as a pair of binoculars with the cameras magnified view activated and also taking the odd picture but mainly for ID rather than hoping of winning praise on forums?

If that is indeed what you're doing I do a similar thing with my Panasonic GX80 and 45-150mm lens (the GX80 is a x2 crop so that's about 90-300mm equivalent.) If your interest is bigger birds that'll help but getting close to them is surely going to be a problem as could holding the camera and lens steady.

So, I'd give this exercise a cautious thumbs up if you're planning to use a longer lens and if you're happy to use the magnified view and end up with any pictures that you take being perhaps mainly for ID, record shot and home use rather than proud showing on forums :D
 
Thanks all, I have always used manual focus in the past and am quite new to auto focus which for me sometimes does not work ( due to mylack of experience of course) I find I can manual focus on the exact subject where as auto focus sometimes doesn't know what it is I wish to focus on . The resultant image is only going to be used for identification purposes which for birds of prey I find rather difficult. Most of the birds I come across are stationary rather than moving although I have been rewarded with a close pass now and again.

Many thanks for the help and the links.
 
The easy answer is at some point you always want more reach. I use a 150-600 sigma most of the time for wildlife which gives a good reach but more versatility than a prime when walking about.The other option is a used super zoom bridge camera if it is just identify you want.
 
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Manual focus is fine so long as you can predict their flight pattern or know where they will perch, and 300mm is fine for APSC if you can get relatively close but obviously 400mm is better. If it's during the winter then the brighter the lens the better too - but f/2.8 prime tele lenses, even vintage MF only variants, will cost you. Ask yourself how much it's worth first, then shop per budget
 
O.k this is a bit ( a lot ) stupid of me , I have a Kodak bridge camera lurking in the cupboard 40x zoom 16mp which I used when first using digital before I brought the Sony which now lurks in the same cupboard after a few weeks use. I was only looking at getting some sort of value from the Sony which has only been used a little and hadn't thought of the bridge camera. I will dig it out and charge a few batteries and have a go with it . Thanks for reminding me that it exists ! If I come across any unknown birds I'll post my results up here.
 
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