What's going on with my D300??

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Hi,

Having had this happen before, and then again last night I'm fustrated to say the least....Last night I attended my local camera club's studio night session which involved us all taking pics of someone using the high key photography.

Everyone else seems to get good results out of their camera's straight away(after using the light meter for the required aperture setting) in shooting in manual mode with the shutter speed of 1/125th and a ISO of 200.

All my images came out WAY overexposed to the point of blowing out and them having a ghosting effect. I spent 10 mins or so fiddling about with the settings to see if there was anything I had overlooked and I couldn't find anything that would of caused this to happen:

_DSC0504.jpg


I'm pretty familier to the D300's workings, so I'm puzzled as to why this has happened. I checked to make sure that there was not Auto ISO selected which may of pumped up the ISO without my knowing but this was disabled. Flash Sync speed was set to 1/125. Even changing the Aperture made not much difference even when set at f22.

Sadly I don't have a studio setup to be able to test my camera shots again, so I can't give any"let me try this and I'll let you know" answers.

Mike.
 
sticky aperture? or more accurately diaphragm
 
sticky aperture? or more accurately diaphragm

Agree. I picked up an old 35-70 it was ok for a bit then started getting over exposed shots when stopped down. if I press the dof button first then shoot its ok.
 
What lens were you using? An oldish one with an aperture ring? If so, maybe it wasn't locked into the f32/auto position... OR the lever on the mount that moves the aperture ring is snapped off and so won't work with non-G lenses - happened to a mate of mine.
 
What lens were you using? An oldish one with an aperture ring? If so, maybe it wasn't locked into the f32/auto position... OR the lever on the mount that moves the aperture ring is snapped off and so won't work with non-G lenses - happened to a mate of mine.
Hi,

I was using a Tamron 28-75 which has got the Aperture ring on the bayonet end. I usually get an error appear(E) in the D300's small display window if the aperture ring is turned when the camera is on as it has to be set and locked to F32 for the control of aperture on the camera.

I tried different metering modes, focus points etc but due to there being other people all wanting to have a go I didn't have enough time to try other things. This problem only seems to happen when using studio lights, normal daylight and speedlight/op up flash shots appear to expose fine.

Mike.
 
Daft question, when you metered for the shot you did meter for the flash and not off just the modelling lights? Could explain why in normal conditions it is ok but with flash it is so over exposed.
 
Had this hapen to me with my d3 ,but not so bad .found i was shooting with iso 200 and every one else was on 100 .the meater was set for iso 100.
 
That total wash out though isn't caused by one stop of ISO...

Mike, still could easily be the snapped lever that works the aperture on non-G lenses...

Easy to test - light a wall with a angle poise or a torch and see what happens with both a non-G and a G lens (if you have one)
 
My guess is a setting somewhere. I am sure if it was a jammed lever or something like that it would rear its head at other times too. This is a camera that works fine at all other times.

I would suggest a total reset and then change the relevant settings for studio work prior to the next studio session.
 
Could be either dialled in exposure comp or the permanent exposure comp? But that would show up everywhere too
 
Hi,

With regards to exposure compensation I had that set it 0 as to make sure it wasn't that being the source of the problem. That was one of the first things I checked along with the auto ISO feature. I may well try and reset the camera next time around, it's strange as in every other shooting situation the camera/lens is fine with reasonably good exposures. I've never had the need to change the aperture on the ring as it's always been set to it's highest(F32) and the adjustments are made on the camera body using the sub dial.

Mike.
 
What about the permanent exposure comp? Can't remember exactly which menu its in, but its called something like "fine tune optimal exposure" and when you do it your top LCD display always dispalys 0 or whatever you dial in with the wheel, but the permanent value is on top of the on the fly one you dial in.

For example, I use -0.7 permanently but also sometimes dial in some manual adjustment as I shoot.
 
still sounds like a sticky aperture blade. look at the lens while holding down the dof preview button, scroll the ap dial and check to see if it is stopping down smoothly/properly.
 
well the EXIF shows all ok with:
Camera Maker: NIKON CORPORATION
Camera Model: NIKON D300
Image Date: 2010:04:13 20:04:13
Focal Length: 48.0mm
Aperture: f/22.0
Exposure Time: 0.0080 s (1/125)
ISO equiv: 200
Exposure Bias: none
Metering Mode: Matrix
Exposure: Manual
Flash Fired: No
so must be some fault.
 
exif doesn't matter. if the aperture is sticking, it might report f/22, but when the shutter is pressed and it tries to stop down the blades wont properly close.
 
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