Where am I going wrong?

[PerfectSpeed]

Posted this on another thread regarding shooting kids rugby, the first line was regarding a mono-pod.

They are a hindrance unless your stuck in a dug. If your moving around one is not really needed.

As for freezing action, Spot meter, pick the shutter speed you want, anything above 1/250, choose your aperture you want (to highlight a player f/2.8, group action f/7.1) and then adjust your ISO for your exposure needs.

Try not to use burst modes, you'll eat through cards, watch the game and expected the expected, if your missing shots then burst mode.

Try not to shoot into the sun, even if it's cloudy, take a compass.

Stay low and out of the way and be prepared to move quickly.

Hope you have fun, although it's kid's it should still be a blast.

and got this

Have you ever seriously shot a rugby game at any level whatsoever, some of the advice you have given here is total and absolute hog wash.

So where am I going wrong, is my reply really hog wash, if so, how do I set up?

Many thanks

 

[KIPAX]

I would dispute just about all that advice...

monopod? depends on the lens but a 300 or over and i would say always use a monopod.. look around.. everyone else does.. plus you shouldnt be moving around.. one of the first rules of sport is dont chase the game (unless american footballl)

shutter speed 250 is miles too low... if your shooting a nifty 50mm lens it might not be but for rugby i am guessing your longer

when you know what your doing.. shootting into the sun isnt aproblem and can add to a picture

burst mode is there for a reason and i can give you loads of reasons why you should use it... i have 2 pro cameras in front of me costing 8k in total and they both have burst mode.. its not there for amatuers so they can shoot and hope..its a pro setting.. use it.. you will miss so much peak action on one shot its probably the worse bit of advice in there.. the sort of advice a non sports shooter would give

keep out of the way is correct.. but be prepared to move quickly for what? if your out of the way then?

 

[PerfectSpeed]

Hi KIPAX

Thanks for the reply, this was for a kid's game on a school field so.

I would dispute just about all that advice...

monopod? depends on the lens but a 300 or over and i would say always use a monopod.. look around.. everyone else does.. plus you shouldnt be moving around.. one of the first rules of sport is dont chase the game (unless american footballl)

It was for a 70-200 f.2.8 at a school game where someone could walk around and wanted shots of their kid

They are a hindrance unless your stuck in a dug. If your moving around one is not really needed.

shutter speed 250 is miles too low... if your shooting a nifty 50mm lens it might not be but for rugby i am guessing your longer

1/250 will stop action, I did mention at least this SS though.

burst mode is there for a reason and i can give you loads of reasons why you should use it... i have 2 pro cameras in front of me costing 8k in total and they both have burst mode.. its not for amtuers its a pro setting.. use it..

It was advice for an amateur shooter, I did mention using it if not getting the shots

keep out of the way is correct.. but be prepared to move quickly for what? if your out of the way then?

The action sometimes finds you

Edited like this for a bar owners request.


This was at full pelt and would have hit smack center of my lens had I not moved
[url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/perfectspeedphotography/4981618793/]

 

[Gary Coyle]

I would dispute just about all that advice...

monopod? depends on the lens but a 300 or over and i would say always use a monopod.. look around.. everyone else does.. plus you shouldnt be moving around.. one of the first rules of sport is dont chase the game (unless american footballl)

shutter speed 250 is miles too low... if your shooting a nifty 50mm lens it might not be but for rugby i am guessing your longer

when you know what your doing.. shootting into the sun isnt aproblem and can add to a picture

burst mode is there for a reason and i can give you loads of reasons why you should use it... i have 2 pro cameras in front of me costing 8k in total and they both have burst mode.. its not there for amatuers so they can shoot and hope..its a pro setting.. use it.. you will miss so much peak action on one shot its probably the worse bit of advice in there.. the sort of advice a non sports shooter would give

keep out of the way is correct.. but be prepared to move quickly for what? if your out of the way then?

Dont forget the comment made about spot metering, spot metering is all well and good if the subject is wearing a single coulured shirt, if sat he was wearing blue and white stripes, black and white hoops using spot metering will have the exposure flying about all over the place, spot metering can be way too accurate, better to use Evaluative (Canon) or Matrix (Nikon)

There are occasions when this will change, for example if shooting static subjects where the spot meter point, ie you arent likely to move off the intended focus point or possibly when shooting a subject in shade but the backgroung is bathed in bright sunshine.

1/250th is good for snail racing

As for a Monopod being a hinderence, its probably the next most importand piece of kit you will use, i use mine all the time even if im up and down the sidelines and not stuck in a "pit"

Shooting into the sun is something you sometimes have no choice about, you simply have to make the best of it by setting the best WB, exposure and metering, any shot is better than none.

Continious shooting is a must during field sports, its on your camera for a reason so use it

My initial response to you over in talk basics was a tad harsh but i stand by it.

 

[KIPAX]

Hi KIPAX

You asked and I answered.. However you seem to want to argue every point.. First off you didnt tell me it was a 70-200 or any other bits your now telling me...But my answers stand.. If Garys or my experience and answers are not what your looking for then maybe you need to ask someone who hasnt done sport..

Telling an amatuer or anyone else to shoot at 250 or anywhere near is bad advice.. But it seems you disagree... so why are you asking if you wont listen to answers?

 

[PerfectSpeed]

Seems I have not put myself across very well the last 2 days, might be due to my break up after 10yrs, thanks for pointing it out

Not intent to argue with anybody and I really do listen and take advice from those of you who are more experienced.

 

[MrFigjam]

Yup...... 1/400 - 1/500th is the MINIMUM I would go to and that's only if shooting at night under floodlights. In daylight you should be aiming for nearer 1/800 - 1/1000th or higher.

Cards are SO cheap these days that you should never be frightened of running out of memory. I just got another 2 x 4GB CF cards (x133 speed) and it cost me about £18. If you only take one shot then you are potentially missing out on so much. You may have great timing but what if their eyes were closed or something? You maximise your chances for better shots by bursting. Pro's do it for a reason.

Yes, fair enough, if you have the choice, try not to shoot into the sun as there's no point making it difficult for yourself, but if you have no choice, adjust and adapt.

Bob