Which Metering mode for model shots in dark places

AndyWest

AndyWest

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Hi

I have been watching vids from Jason Lanier https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLoF2D82DHfipbXXEbtMhELAet15RMYyDG where he uses a model in abandoned buildings and I would love to give this a try. I have access/permission to a run down disused farm house and some old farm cottages plus a granary that still has some old rusty machinery inside and some stables, perfect for this kinda stuff. The sort of shots I would like would be mainly natural light through windows and some fill in flash on the odd occasion. The thing I can't fathom out is which metering mode to use on the model. I don't want it too look like too much light coming in through the windows.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks
 
The issue isn't metering modes, it's lighting.

If you want your model in a pool of windowlight, then find one, you can meter with any mode so long as you understand what you're metering.
 
I have done a few model shoots in abandoned buildings and what Phil says above is correct.

I found that using a mixture of OCF and window light worked best for me. I think you might struggle on relying on just natural light and a bit of fill flash on camera.
 
Thanks guy's. I intend to use a flash and a video light if needed. I'll try the different modes and see which works best.
 
AndyWest said:
Thanks guy's. I intend to use a flash and a video light if needed. I'll try the different modes and see which works best.
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As I said, you need to understand 'what' you're metering, it's fundamental, but people think it's too much hassle to learn.

I rarely switch metering modes, generally stick with eval, but I'm very careful what I meter, when I meter, when I use exp lock or exp comp.

The other option in really tricky conditions, is a hand held meter.
 
Phil V said:
As I said, you need to understand 'what' you're metering, it's fundamental, but people think it's too much hassle to learn.

I rarely switch metering modes, generally stick with eval, but I'm very careful what I meter, when I meter, when I use exp lock or exp comp.

The other option in really tricky conditions, is a hand held meter.
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Thanks Phil, I will use the next few sessions to get my head round it.

Dean, Thanks....Nice image! Lighting is great!
 
AndyWest said:
What do you mean by 'Incident'? Not heard that before.
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Using a hand held meter, generally takes an 'incident' reading (measuring the light falling in the subject)

Your camera contains a reflective meter which measures the light reflected from your subject and their surroundings. No matter which camera metering mode you use, all you're doing is manipulating which part of that you measure.

If you spot meter a black, white and grey object in the same light, you'll get 3 different readings, (the camera assumes they're all grey but in different light), use an incident meter to measure at the same point and you get 1 reading,
 
Thanks Phil. It's making much more sense now :)

Dean..M mode..Oh yes!!! :)
 
AndyWest said:
Hi

I have been watching vids from Jason Lanier https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLoF2D82DHfipbXXEbtMhELAet15RMYyDG where he uses a model in abandoned buildings and I would love to give this a try. I have access/permission to a run down disused farm house and some old farm cottages plus a granary that still has some old rusty machinery inside and some stables, perfect for this kinda stuff. The sort of shots I would like would be mainly natural light through windows and some fill in flash on the odd occasion. The thing I can't fathom out is which metering mode to use on the model. I don't want it too look like too much light coming in through the windows.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks
Click to expand...

If you don't have a light meter capable of an incident reading (a camera always uses reflective metering unless you do something exotic like buy an expodisc) then I'd suggest spot metering unless you're working in a fast-changing environment. Put the spot over the part of the scene - usually the model's face - you want to be 'normally' exposed and adjust everything until the meter reads +/- 0 (in manual mode. If you're using one of the semi-auto modes then you'll need to use exposure lock).

Note that some people like to add a third of a stop to make a face 'pop'.

If you're using flash then I'd go manual on that too and use a handheld meter; I struggle to get repeatable results with automatic TTL flash metering. Others manage perfectly well though.

If you do want to go down the TTL route then you'll probably want to dial in some exposure compensation and flash exposure adjustment to taste. In a shadowy scene where there isn't much light I'd still use spot metering 'cos I can't reliably predict what matrix mode will do. I've never found a use for centre-weighted metering.
 
juggler said:
If you don't have a light meter capable of an incident reading (a camera always uses reflective metering unless you do something exotic like buy an expodisc) then I'd suggest spot metering unless you're working in a fast-changing environment. Put the spot over the part of the scene - usually the model's face - you want to be 'normally' exposed and adjust everything until the meter reads +/- 0 (in manual mode. If you're using one of the semi-auto modes then you'll need to use exposure lock).

Note that some people like to add a third of a stop to make a face 'pop'.

If you're using flash then I'd go manual on that too and use a handheld meter; I struggle to get repeatable results with automatic TTL flash metering. Others manage perfectly well though.

If you do want to go down the TTL route then you'll probably want to dial in some exposure compensation and flash exposure adjustment to taste. In a shadowy scene where there isn't much light I'd still use spot metering 'cos I can't reliably predict what matrix mode will do. I've never found a use for centre-weighted metering.
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Thanks Simon, very useful. I will be shooting manual and hopefully by tomorrow I will have 2 flash's and a video light box to play with. I have 1 flash and the large Metz Mecalight at the moment and the 2nd flash should hopefully be delivered to work tomorrow ready for the shoot tomorrow night. Can't wait! I will be using the flash's in manual as it makes more sense to me that way. Adding 1/3 of a stop is a good idea, I will try that.

Many thanks. (y)
 
AndyWest said:
Thanks Simon, very useful. I will be shooting manual and hopefully by tomorrow I will have 2 flash's and a video light box to play with. I have 1 flash and the large Metz Mecalight at the moment and the 2nd flash should hopefully be delivered to work tomorrow ready for the shoot tomorrow night. Can't wait! I will be using the flash's in manual as it makes more sense to me that way. Adding 1/3 of a stop is a good idea, I will try that.

Many thanks. (y)
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Remember to start with one light and build gradually, and remember that a reflector can be a much simpler solution than adding a second light.
Are the flashes and the led video light the same temperature? Something to watch for anyway.
 
juggler said:
Remember to start with one light and build gradually, and remember that a reflector can be a much simpler solution than adding a second light.
Are the flashes and the led video light the same temperature? Something to watch for anyway.
Click to expand...
Thanks Simon.

I did start with no lights, then added one then in a different location added another. I feel now that I need another flash so that I will have 2 powerful flashes and 1 not so powerful. I also used a Metz Mecalight LED video light which was brilliant. On a few of the shots I was a fair distance away and needed all the light I could get for the shots.

So all in all my 1st shoot went really well.
 
Need to process them. Bit busy at the moment but will post soon.
 
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