Which ND Filter

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Name
Glenn
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I was thinking of buying a 10 stop filter, but after looking at the shutter speeds im wondering if this is really what I want afterall. Im wanting to shoot seascape etc with smooth water in daylight. Also would like to get some special effects with clouds going on.

What level of nd should I be looking at ?
 
10 stop would be the best bet.

Many different makes at many different prices. I use the Lee big stopper. About £200 at current prices for just the filter, then you need the holder and adapter aswell, so another £60 odd there.

Hitech do one called the prostop, which is about £70, again you'll need the holder and adapter.

Then you have screw in ones, which are cheaper, but more akward to use as you usually have to unscrew it everytime you want to recompose or focus.

I used a LCW ND500 which is a 9 stop roughly. Got some good shots with it. These are about 30 second exposures give or take. Taken at about 7am, so not bright daylight, but not dark either.


Pebbles and Poles by TCR4x4, on Flickr


The Misty Shore by TCR4x4, on Flickr
 
Sorry to gate-crash but Tom, how do you rate the LCW ND500? I'd rather get one of these if they're any good than take a chance on a ebay effort.

Joe
 
Pretty good for the money. Slight cast but easily sorted. It's not too thick so doesn't cause too much vignetting. I used it a lot at Brighton, and apart from having to unscrew it after each shot, was very pleased.
 
The whole point of the 10 stop is to get long shutter speeds, usually in the region of 30 seconds or more. Any less and the image will likely be underexposed, unless it's really bright light.

Can't remember the exact details of the above photos and on my iPad so can't check the exif easily , but I think they were around the 30 second mark or more.
 
Thanks for your help. Im sure I read some chart that was pointing at shutters speeds in terms of 15mins plus. 30 seconds is well acceptable. Thankyou.

The shutter speed you need depends on the subject, the prevailing light, and the effect you want.

With fast moving water like fountains, you can often get that smooth and blurry enough without an ND filter if it's not too bright. 1/4sec or so might do it, which you can sometimes get with lowest ISO and a high f/number, or a modest ND filter like maybe NDx8 (3 stops).

With seascapes, you usually need a couple or more waves, so now you're into ten seconds and more. Streaky clouds depends entirely on the wind - can be a few seconds or much longer (usually longer). In normal daylight, this is extreme ND territory - 8 to 10 stops.
 
The shutter speed you need depends on the subject, the prevailing light, and the effect you want.

With fast moving water like fountains, you can often get that smooth and blurry enough without an ND filter if it's not too bright. 1/4sec or so might do it, which you can sometimes get with lowest ISO and a high f/number, or a modest ND filter like maybe NDx8 (3 stops).

As said above, it depends on what you want to be shooting, fountains, waterfalls etc are unlikely to need a 10 stop, a polariser or 3 or 4 stop ND will do the job fine as exposures of a 1/8 sec to 1 sec are usually fine.

Heres an example of a fountain taken with a polariser at an 1/8 sec at f16 ( I would have used an ND filter as well to reduce the aperture and shutter speed but didn't have one with me at the time) and a 2 stop soft ND grad.

RVP_100F_Fountain.jpg


Fujichrome Velvia 100F, Asahi Pentax Spotmatic F, Pentax SMC Takumar 55mm f1.8. F16, 1/8th Soft ND Grad 0.6, Polariser.

Note that the actual slide is way better, the company that did the scanning didn't do a too good job with my slides/negs.
 
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