Beginner Wildlife photography set up

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Name
Mark Moore
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Hi Everyone,

Just getting into wildlife photography.
I am finding that this is more and more my area of interest.

I am shooting with a Nikon D7100 and longest lens is a very cheap Tamron 80-200mm lens and find it not so sharp. I want to know what focal lenght I could get away with for shooting birds?

I was looking at the Tamron 150-600mm G2 originally but at £1100 new (not grey market) it is quite an investment.

Also the Sigma 150-600mm Contemporary for £750 which is a lot less.

Is there something else I should be looking at?

Some pictures taken..
IMG_20200504_191035.jpg
 
For the money, you can't really beat the Sigma. I used one with my 7100 for a while and was quite pleased with the results.

Try shooting at a faster shutter speed to help eliminate camera shake - for birds I'd say a minimum of 800-1000/s. Try shutter priority with auto-ISO.
 
For the money, you can't really beat the Sigma. I used one with my 7100 for a while and was quite pleased with the results.

Try shooting at a faster shutter speed to help eliminate camera shake - for birds I'd say a minimum of 800-1000/s. Try shutter priority with auto-ISO.

I usually shoot with aperture priority but as the aperture is fixed at the longest focal lenght I will give this ago. Camera shake is my second name so far!
The sigma has good reviews. I want to rent one here but unsure at the moment if I can with lockdown.
 
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I would go with sigma it’s really nice lens. I always try and get up to 1/2000 for birds in flight. This is a big lens and that speed should eliminate any shake
 
This is an uncropped shot at 600mm on the Sigma Contemporary Lens on my Nikon D750.

Cheers,
Dougie.
DSC_9015.jpg
 
Get the sigma, you won’t be disappointed!

The woodpecker is shot trough a dirty window, hence not as as sharp as could be, but still pretty good.

2AE6C245-F44E-4A9C-B549-6A486EC977E9.jpeg
6B5BF50F-3B29-4EA4-B364-FE296DFD0B91.jpeg
 
I use Canon and I find the Sigma very good. Needs decent light but usually not an issue. Try before you buy, I thought some rental cos were still open.
 
Thanks guys, I will try and get a lend once restrictions lift. Give my local camera shop a call
 
Received this on Saturday. This is my first "new" buy after buying all my gear second hand.

I am amazed at the quality. The weight was something I was not expecting (Can only imagine the 'Sport' version) as it dwarfs my D7100.

Super sharp images and shots in focus handheld at 600mm makes me smile - 200mm on my tamron non IS lens were a joke!

I got the package with teleconverter and tried this also for the laugh but happy with images standard -Bokeh is nice.

Will be looking at a 70-200 f2.8 at some point but a lot of learning on this.

Thanks to everyone for the advice and example shots of what I could get to. Will begin to post images soon
 
Not ever having used a Canon 400, regardless of lens - your losing performance with an extender.

The Sigma/Tamron Lenses are a no brainer considering the price of the manufacturer's offerings. (Pro's excluded).

Have a look at some of the pictures on this thread :-

https://www.talkphotography.co.uk/threads/sigma-150-600mm-contemporary.583964/page-69#post-8713130

or loads to choose from in my 2020 lockdown pics (including 20 heron pics). All handheld.

https://dougielindsayphotography.pixieset.com/lockdown2020/


Punches way above it's weight.

Dougie.
 
Is the Sigma/Tamron 600 better than say the Canon 400 with an extender?

Tricky to answer, question is a bit vague...................canon make a 400f 5.6, a 400f 4 ,a 400 f 2.8. I use the 400 f4 is ii DO it really doesn't seem to take much of a hit IQ wise with 1.4 ext iii. I'd expect that to be true of all the 2.8 lenses as well. Adding an ext also effects AF performance So that needs pondering too. i'd imagine without pixel peeping you will struggle to split results. That siggy makes some wonderful images with great IQ, as do the canon 400mm lenses. I guess you have to factor in that all important f , if one is shooting in low light then there is likely t be a best tool for that particular job and finally weight. Great having a f2.8 lens but if it's too heavy for you is isn't going to be the best for you as an individual.

Moose sorry mate Mark:D ,

if your are finding wildlife is your thang, then learn about your subjects. Togs sort of call this field craft. But simply the more you know about what you are making an image of the more aware you will be of how what you are doing will impinge on your subject. By knowing about the birds and beasties we as image makers have a much better chance of putting our selves in the best spot to connect with a subject and not scaring it away when it finally turns up. Mate I realize you were asking on a lens,but you are there now, grats:) This little bit is such a help even with BIF......birds use flight lines :roads in the sky they travel by. So with a given wind direction you can start to attempt to predict where they might be ,with a given wind direction for example . Pushing all this further if I know an animal I can start to predict cool photo chances Because you know how the animal behaves you also start to lok to caputre those behavious.
Mark ,I hope this is ok,the above changes how one thinks as a guy making an image ,it's so important and can make your forrays so rewarding

seeya

stu
 
I am looking forward to the long weekend to get out and take it all in.

Lots to learn. Having the reach means I am not frustrated at a spec in distance.
 
My only 'watchout' with your combination is that your autofocus might be limited when you attach the teleconverter as the D7100 has an older AF system where after f5.6 you are limited to the centre spot and even then it is not entirely dependable, ie it is not an F8 AF body like the newer Nikon bodies.

I am surprised no-one mentioned the Nikkor 200-500 f5.6, or a 300/4 with 1,4/1.7 TC. I have the Nikkor, I had the 150-500 Sigma and my partner had the 150-600 Sigma 'C' and in terms of handling the Nikkor is much nicer.

I suggest practice, practice, practice with the new lens - you do need to use the fastest shutter speed possible. When light dims you'll find it a struggle to keep the lens steady when shutter speeds drop.
 
Did not realise that about 7100. Will be eventually looking at a D500 once I practice with current set up
 
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