Window light portrait advice please!

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Cathy
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Morning all from a frosty but sunny morning in Scotland.

As I am just moving away from Auto mode I need a little advice.

While I am waiting on my nifty fifty coming I would like to try some window light portraits with my teenage granddaughter Charly today.

My questions are do I put the picture setting on my canon 550 d away from faithful and put it on portrait then use AV at the smallest F stop.

Also which lens would be best i have the one that came with the kit and a tamron 70-200

Is there a range of settings I should be using on this camera to get reasonable shots. I fear I have changed a few when I was looking through them and not really sure what they should be on so any links to help with this would be Great

Thank you in advance
Cathy
 
I would suggest you try putting the camera into manual mode, setting the shutter speed to something like 100th of a second and the aperture at about as wide as it can go - I don't know your lenses but f4, f2.8 or whatever. Then get as close as you can to your models face, the side lit by the window light and adjust the ISO till you get a correct reading. As long as your model doesn't move too far from the window that will do the job just fine as a starting point. You will now be exposing for the brighter side of her face but the other side will be in some sort of shadow - you may want to try putting a reflector, which can be a sheet, piece of white paper or even some tin foil to lighten up the shadows so will need to experiment with the placing of the reflector.
If the sun is shining in through the window then the light will be fairly harsh so a net curtain might diffuse it enough to flatter a young face.

This may all sound complicated but it really isn't - if you have a tripod then you can experiment on yourself to see what difference a reflector makes and where to put it.

You can worry a lot about the technical side of things but with people it is about the expression so get things set up as I suggest then leave the camera settings alone and concentrate on coaxing the right kind of smile, look or whatever by communicating with her.

As for focal length - anything around 50-70mm is good on a crop camera, so as the kit lens will be smaller and lighter it will be easier to hold should you need to drop the shutter speed a little. One good rule to remember is that the shutter speed ought to be a little faster than the focal length you are using - ie a lens of 70mm suggests a shutter speed of something like 100th of a second to avoid camera shake though this is just a guide.
You will need to focus on your models eyes as at f4 or wider (ie f2.8 ) you will have a very shallow depth of field, meaning very little will be in focus and the eyes can be the most important factor in a portrait.

However, as with so many things there are no hard and fast rules so be prepared to experiment and learn by your mistakes - it is the best way !
 
Thank you so much for your advice which i have noted and appreciate you taking the time to help.
Sadly Charly arrived early and I just went with it.Not great as I used the larger 70-200 lens but they are my first window light shots.

Now what i need is to learn how to remove freckles and spots really well..LOL!! or i won't be allowed to show anyone them.I did get some off with photoshop but will work on them later.

Girls at 14 are very protective of how they look!
Cathy
 
If this question is for me I do not have my 50mm 1.8 lens yet.

I just meant when using my kit lens 18-55 that if I took it to the smallest aperture the model would be in focus and the background out of focus..I think ?

Lots to learn yet so i may be wrong.
Cathy
 
Seajay said:
If this question is for me I do not have my 50mm 1.8 lens yet.

I just meant when using my kit lens 18-55 that if I took it to the smallest aperture the model would be in focus and the background out of focus..I think ?

Lots to learn yet so i may be wrong.
Cathy

That would be the widest aperture you are thinking of. The smallest aperture of a lens is generally f/22. Often times, lenses are not as sharp wide open at f/1.8 for example. I would suggest stopping down to at least f2.5 to get adequate sharpness and a shallow DoF.
 
Gosh yes sorry I am still trying to get to grips with all of that yet.

Not sure that my lens can go that low or can it and I am not taking the time to look but I think F 4 is the smallest i have been able to go.However i may be wrong.I am at the stage where if I take one picture and it looks ok off Auto I am well pleased,but I will improve with time.
 
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I'm guessing this is the kind of photo you're wanting to create.

window_lit_bride.jpg


This was actually one of the images I rejected from a recent wedding, but it serves to show the idea - I hope :)

The bride is lit solely from a large window to her left (camera right) and a small amount of reflection off the cream coloured wall to her right. We're in a hotel corridor and it was an overcast day so the light was very diffused. This helps with controlling shadows but gives challenges for getting a suitable shutter speed. Details for the setting here are:

Lens: Nikon 24-70mm f/2.8
Aperture: f/2.8
Shutter speed: 70mm
ISO: 200
Metering: Spot, from the brides dress over her left breast.

EDIT: Ah, seems I was a bit slow posting here and you've taken some images of your grandaughter already. Ignore the above as you see fit :)
 
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Seajay said:
Gosh yes sorry I am still trying to get to grips with all of that yet.

Not sure that my lens can go that low or can it and I am not taking the time to look but I think F 4 is the smallest i have been able to go.However i may be wrong.I am at the stage where if I take one picture and it looks ok off Auto I am well pleased,but I will improve with time.

I am 99% positive that if you were to zoom out to 18mm, your maximum aperture would be f/3.5. You see, aperture is just a fraction. The "smaller" the f/number, the larger the diaphragm opening in the lens.

Here's an easy example to walk through....

Lets say you have a 50mm lens, and the aperture you are using is f/2. To figure out the diameter of the aperture diaphragm opening you would divide 50 by 2. So 50/2= 25mm. You then stop down to f/4, so your lens opening is now 12.5mm. So using a "larger" f/number is actually a smaller aperture. Hope this clears up the confusion.
 
Steve thank you so much and yes I would be delighted if I could get anywhere near this a very pretty bride and I have noted your advice for next time I can get her to model for me. As you can imagine they are getting a little fed up with me and my we earning curve. The reason I have been trying so hard was o try and capture a decent picture of all of them and get them onto a canvas Huh! No way that will happen this year lol!

Tyler thanks to you too for walk through that was super info! And easy for me to understand

Cathy
 
Catherine,

You're not too far away already. Just keep practicing - at least for as long as they're willing to play ball :)

if you're going for a canvas then don't be too critical about the image as the canvas fabric will hide a multitude of sins :D
 
Morning all from a frosty but sunny morning in Scotland.

As I am just moving away from Auto mode I need a little advice.

While I am waiting on my nifty fifty coming I would like to try some window light portraits with my teenage granddaughter Charly today.

My questions are do I put the picture setting on my canon 550 d away from faithful and put it on portrait then use AV at the smallest F stop.

Also which lens would be best i have the one that came with the kit and a tamron 70-200

Is there a range of settings I should be using on this camera to get reasonable shots. I fear I have changed a few when I was looking through them and not really sure what they should be on so any links to help with this would be Great

Thank you in advance
Cathy
Usually the best natural light window portraits are where the window is not in full sun, where the subject is being hit with a pool of really diffuse light. Often a slightly cloudy day is the best

Treat the window like a soft-box. I often then use a reflector in the room to just add a little fill to the un-lit side of the face / body

When I say reflector, I mean one of those big five-in-one jobbies, however, you can make use of a white door (usefully they come on hinges!)

If you are looking for really natural skin tones, then gravitate towards the lowest ISO you can shoot at. I tend to shoot in manual or aperture prioritory. I always want to be in control of the aperture first (we are not shooting anything moving here)

Totally un-posed - the bride just looking out of the window. I realised the light was great and her friends were outside, so lined up the door to act as a fill reflector about 2 mins earlier and just waited for the shot

8.jpg


Aperture was F3.5, and It was shot at ISO 160 on a full frame back with a 60mm prime lens

The issue with a lot of these shots is the crap in the background. which is why I kept things shallow

As a contrast, the next one is what happens when the window is in full sun, even though the subject is well inside the room, the lighting is really harsh

I could of used fill flash, instead I decided to catch the spray and use a silhouette

5.jpg

This on was on a crop camera, and the amount of light meant that at ISO 100, and at F8, most of the room was in focus. lens = 50mm prime

The next one was shot in a tight squeeze, there was not a lot of light here so I was at ISO 200, F3.5.

10.jpg


The light was really really subtle, no space or time to do any fill I literally clocked the window, metered for it, and then took the shot later as the bride left the house on the way past. She is looking at her father outside with the car. the image looks a touch cluttered, but that's the price to pay for shooting "up the stairs in a tight spot, and deliberately not posing the bride" The second shot I took was more cropped, and was better composed, but the lighting wasn't quite so sweet

12.jpg


Getting "inside the angle" works well, look how the shooting position alters between the two shots (in this shot I am to my left of the bride in the previous shot I was to the right. By now she has realised I am shooting her. The bride has barely moved, I have. The lighting is the same but the effect feels different. It is a shame that she noticed me, that is reflected in the change of head position

The thing to take from this is to "find great light" that is.. actively scout for it, remember where it is, think about how you could use it and then use it if the opportunity presents itself
 
Richard beautiful photos and thank you for taking the time to help.I have taken notes from all the advice given. I enjoyed all the photos but keep going back to the black and white I really like that effect a lot!


I see where your coming from.I think I have placed my kids too far away from the window
I did have another go today and I am improving but not getting the light right yet but it will come with practice.I always have to edit..LOL!
 
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