Yashica MG-1 light meter problems

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I've just got hold of a nice little MG-1 which seems to be functional apart from the light meter. This is a bigger issue than most cameras as it's semi-auto and without the light meter I'm stuck at a permanent 1/500. I'm using one of the nifty battery convertors so you can use a 4LR44 battery (I've tried two batteries in case the first was a dud), but I'm not getting any lights lighting up either on top of the camera or arrows through the viewfinder. The battery terminals are very clean. One thing I haven't done is try it with film loaded, because the light seals are buggered (I'm happy to fix those). I'm assuming the camera isn't smart enough to realise there isn't film loaded and turn off the meter?

Does anyone with experience of Yashicas have any ideas before I start unscrewing the top?! It's a lovely little camera which looks like it's hardly been used, so I'd really like to rescue it if possible and get it out in the sunshine again.
 
Sometimes the wires to the battery compartment become corroded and you have a broken link...can't think of anything else and good luck.
 
Sometimes the wires to the battery compartment become corroded and you have a broken link...can't think of anything else and good luck.

Thanks - the idea of some sort of corroded wire has been floating around my head. I was hoping to dismiss it, as the MG-1 is really clean and tidy, but I guess a few decades of sitting around isn't going to do it any good. I found a web site with a ton of instructions on how to pull the camera apart, but I haven't (yet) been brave enough to give it a go. May be a project for the weekend, unless anyone else has a super-bright idea.
 
dont know about the yash , but ive got an idea that the nikon em dosent work without a film in it ,it defaults to its only manual shutter speed of a 90th of a sec, ( the em is an aperture priority only camera as well )
 
I might be able to help a little here, as I have a Yashica MG-1 and an Electro 35GT; I like Yashica rangefinders. Firstly I think Brian's suggestion about the corroded wire is the most likely (more on that later) but I have one thing to suggest which fixed an identical no power problem with my 35GT and battery adapter.


I was skeptical when I read this, but the suggestion is to remove the sticker which indicates polarity from the screw in battery cover. I thought the adapter would still make contact with the metal ring but it didn't. Once the sticker was removed and the glue residue cleaned off, the camera was fine. We should remember that the camera was designed for a much bigger diameter battery with a large flat terminal which wouldn't cause a connection problem. Try this first of all as it requires no dismantling and it might just work.


On to the more likely corrosion theory. I had an Olympus XA which appeared to have only the tiniest smudge of crud leaked from a tiny battery but that was enough to creep up the connecting lead's conductor inside the insulation, eat it all away and ruin the camera, as replacement was impossible due to limited space. The position with your Yashica is much, much better and you should be able to repair a corroded wire. If you remove the bottom cover you will see:



(I've place the battery cover on the right, so that you can see it without its '+' sticker) If the corrosion is in the bottom connection, then there should be plenty of slack in that red wire to enable you to make a repair. I don't know where the other end goes though.

If the corrosion is at the spring end of the battery chamber, then those two screws you can see, hold in the whole battery chamber and you can just slide it out but you will need to remove the camera top cover first to unsolder the far end of the wire that connects to the spring. I've removed the top cover of my MG1, just to clean the rangefinder glass and it's quite easy as there's only the one electrical connection to the hot shoe to disconnect. Removing the advance lever is the only slightly tricky bit.

Here is a photo of another Yashica Electro 35 (which has the same chassis as the MG1) that I have for spares, showing the chamber being slid out. Don't worry, you won't need to dismantle your camera as far as this, it's just the way may camera is. You only need remove top and bottom covers.



You will need to unsolder the far end of that white wire after removing the top cover to pull out the plastic chamber. You can then replace the whole wire if necessary. My final tip is to make sure that you don't use lead free solder, get some good old fashioned 60/40 stuff which is much easier to melt. Good luck with your camera, it's well worth repairing if you can.
 
I might be able to help a little here, as I have a Yashica MG-1 and an Electro 35GT; I like Yashica rangefinders. Firstly I think Brian's suggestion about the corroded wire is the most likely (more on that later) but I have one thing to suggest which fixed an identical no power problem with my 35GT and battery adapter.

Thank you *so much* for the repair tips. Absolutely brilliant. I tried the sticker removal, but that simple trick didn't work.

I'll try and tackle the top removal tomorrow evening when I can sit and take it slow.

Thanks again. What great people we have on this forum eh?

J
 
Well, thanks to you guys I've tracked down the source of my Yashica woes. I took off the bottom plate and the red wire was fine, but after releasing the battery cylinder it came straight up out of the camera: no connecting wire at the bottom! Looks like it's corroded through.

Next step: work out how to remove the top (instructions look good on the yashica-guy site) and see if the missus will solder it back up for me. (she's handy with a soldering iron). :)

View attachment 12620
 
After tracing the problem back to a broken connection at the top of the battery compartment I've spent the last four days trying to remove the top cover! The winder was a bit tricky two remove, but I bodged that by making my own set of circlip pliers using two small nails clamped into a pair of mole grips :) Unfortunately, just when I thought it was going well, one of the three small screws holding on the top plate absolutely refused to let go. I've tried all sorts of tricks to budge it and so far it's sheared the end off two screwdrivers. Tried heating it with a soldering iron to try and break any paint or glue seals, using rubber bands to provide extra grip etc etc. But no, the b*****d hasn't turned a single degree.

Any ideas other than cutting it off with a Dremel? Trying to avoid anything that drastic in an effort to reduce damage to the case.
 
It's no consolation I know, but the corresponding screws on my MG1 and the Electro 35 unscrew quite easily. Looking at my scrap/spares Electro, I see that they screw into reasonably substantial chunks of metal which have the female threads. If you can save the female thread, I can send you a couple of replacement screws for free. PM me if you need them. PlusGas was always the preferred penetrating oil for freeing seized threads on vehicles but I've never heard of it being used on a camera before. It might work, you never know.
 
After tracing the problem back to a broken connection at the top of the battery compartment I've spent the last four days trying to remove the top cover! The winder was a bit tricky two remove, but I bodged that by making my own set of circlip pliers using two small nails clamped into a pair of mole grips :) Unfortunately, just when I thought it was going well, one of the three small screws holding on the top plate absolutely refused to let go. I've tried all sorts of tricks to budge it and so far it's sheared the end off two screwdrivers. Tried heating it with a soldering iron to try and break any paint or glue seals, using rubber bands to provide extra grip etc etc. But no, the b*****d hasn't turned a single degree.

Any ideas other than cutting it off with a Dremel? Trying to avoid anything that drastic in an effort to reduce damage to the case.

Well the screws would be Japanese and you need a screwdriver that can work with the Japanese cross head.
 
It's no consolation I know, but the corresponding screws on my MG1 and the Electro 35 unscrew quite easily. Looking at my scrap/spares Electro, I see that they screw into reasonably substantial chunks of metal which have the female threads. If you can save the female thread, I can send you a couple of replacement screws for free. PM me if you need them. PlusGas was always the preferred penetrating oil for freeing seized threads on vehicles but I've never heard of it being used on a camera before. It might work, you never know.

I'll give some penetrating oil a go - that's one thing I haven't tried yet. And if it ends up being a cut-out job, I'll be sure to beg for a new screw! Thanks :)
 
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