Recent content by Joenail

Oh it'll be cut down fairly short, to maybe twenty minutes. I just need the security of having it running constantly as I can't tell when something will be happening. A couple of cameras in different places too, so it might not be that boring! I can't get use of a mk3 or D800 at the moment, but...

Hello! I'm trying to shoot a 7-ish hour long video with either a 5dIII or a 7d, and am wondering if there is any special way to do so. I'm thinking I can have it tethered to a laptop on live view and just let it sit there, with the computer recording. I can't think of any other way to get...

Hello! I bought a half plate camera about a month ago and have been struggling to make a set of bellows for it since. My first problem is the extension/thickness/compression relationship--I don't seem to be able to have a decent amount of extension and still be able to compress the bellows...

Old paper wouldn't be any softer than new paper, I'm sure. But do get someone to confirm that, haha. Might be a good idea to get some cheapy cheapy generic RC paper to test it, eliminate possible faults and all.

There could be a few reasons for this: Paper upside down under enlarger; weak developer; fogged paper; overexposed negatives and/or stopping the lens down too far; and the wrong using the wrong focal length lens, meaning the light source would be further away from the paper. And unter-the-lens...

It looks to me like something has splashed on the negatives while they were drying/dry. Have you tried re-washing them and using a wetting agent?

It might have been the film sticking together when developing, that happens to me a bit when I mess up loading into the reels. Emulsion peels and all. Or something floating about, yes, that might make more sense since it's not in the same place. But if it was in the camera then it wouldn't be...

I have a good book on darkroomery by Ilford, I imagine it's pretty old now but it covers a lot of details and will give you a very good knowledge of what goes on in there. However I'm not too sure how useful it will be for more beginner-ish things, setting up trays and all. It's called Ilford...

Yep, then I'd say it's your developer.

:bonk: Yep!

Could have fogged the entire thing between camera and dev tank, that would get rid of any rebate marks, surely.

I'm not sure about this! Over development doesn't affect shadows as much as it does highlights, in my experience. For a low contrast scene I tend to expose for the shadows +2 stops and over develop by a few minutes (three or so). Shadows nearly always come out fine, give or take a small amount...

Nope, definitely no need to process differently! But for future reference it would be a pull. Expose for the shadows, develop for the highlights ;)

Generally you get three stops of underexposure and four of overexposure from zone V (middle grey), so you should be fine, yes. If you were developing yourself I'd recommend that you dilute 1+3 or something, with ID-11.

Even if it is fogged it should be usable! I had a badly fogged twenty metres of HP5 and it was okay, really. Not nice to print from but scanned okay, just needed a contrast boost. Actually with a high contrast scene it could prove to be somewhat useful to bring it down to normal (ish) levels...