Canon 7D mk2 owners thread.

Gaz J said:
No idea George. I was just answering the post above mine
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:D yes, there really isn't a choice between the two, is there Gary?.... but there's a big price difference!!...for the money, the 7D2 is pretty good, with the obvious proviso.....
 
RedRobin said:
....That's good to know, George :). My Canon 300mm F/4L IS and 400mm F/5.6L are both 'mk1' lenses, hence their limitations with my mk3 extender. I guess that my Canon 70-200mm F/4L IS must be a mk2 lens because my extender works well on it. I must try it some more on my 7D2.
!
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Well, Robin, it isn't a mk2, but enjoy anyway!!!!
 
George said:
:D yes, there really isn't a choice between the two, is there Gary?.... but there's a big price difference!!...for the money, the 7D2 is pretty good, with the obvious proviso.....
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....I think that the reason why the flagship 1DX occasionally, in fact somewhat often, gets mentioned while talking about the 7D2 is simply because the 7D2 offers some features which approach much closer to the 1DX (and 5D3) than their price differences would normally allow and particularly the sophisticated AF system. It says a lot of positives for the 7D2 and I think that Canon have been quite clever and doubtless will also have realised that the 7D2 offers a very practical crop-sensor second body alongside 1DX and 5D3 full-frame users. It really opens up more flexibility for the photographer and especially for professionals.
 
Nothing wrong on your PP but I would not reveal too much of the shadow area (slider happy :D)

Agree on the NR on the feather subject I do not NR mine as well... PS: I am also on 27" iMac (y)

RedRobin said:
....Thanks for explaining that to me :)

I rarely apply any noise reduction to a bird or other wildlife and after any post-processing in Aperture I edit in Photoshop CS6 where I select the subject (bird etc), invert the selection and then apply a third-party noise reduction filter (Imageonic) to the background only before Smart Sharpening as the last step. This is because I don't like the look of over smoothed feathers/fur etc because I think it looks unrealistic.

I'm very grateful for your advice on this but am afraid that I am happy with this particular image in the circumstances and it's not for the bin yet. I wish I could see the "colour noise" you are referring to. I have viewed the image on my 27" Mac display.
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RedRobin said:
....I think that the reason why the flagship 1DX occasionally, in fact somewhat often, gets mentioned while talking about the 7D2 is simply because the 7D2 offers some features which approach much closer to the 1DX (and 5D3) than their price differences would normally allow and particularly the sophisticated AF system. It says a lot of positives for the 7D2 and I think that Canon have been quite clever and doubtless will also have realised that the 7D2 offers a very practical crop-sensor second body alongside 1DX and 5D3 full-frame users. It really opens up more flexibility for the photographer and especially for professionals.
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There a couple of things on the MkII that I would like to see a firmware update for the 1DX incorporate and value for money the MkII is an excellent camera
 
I minor diversion if I may.....

Is there a specific name for the type/profile of USB connector on the 7D2?

Bob
 
Let's make the question another way, if you have the money which one you will get, 1DX or 7D2?
 
TareqPhoto said:
Let's make the question another way, if you have the money which one you will get, 1DX or 7D2?
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....Obviously the 1DX is a superior camera in so many ways, BUT, to be honest I personally would still buy the 7D2 and spend what I saved on a supertelephoto L lens.

Why? - Because I'm an amateur wildlife togger who always needs telephoto reach (my 'shortest' lens is a 70-200mm) and also I really don't like such bulky camera bodies with grips whether built-in or detachable. I may be odd but I expect I'm not alone in this. I used to own a Canon EOS-1 back in the old days of SLR and I have used one of the first EOS-1 DSLR body back then too, so I do know that I don't get on with the bulk.
 
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robinsslee said:
Nothing wrong on your PP but I would not reveal too much of the shadow area (slider happy :D)

Agree on the NR on the feather subject I do not NR mine as well... PS: I am also on 27" iMac (y)
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....We are both named Robin, we both use a 27" iMac, and we both don't use NR on feathers! LOL :D We're the best, aren't we!?

I'll take your advice and watch how I slide :)

P.S.- I did far more shadow sliding in the second Buzzard shot which included the Crows - That one is really tricky with its extremes of light and dark areas.
 
Yes, reach is another story, but we are talking if someone has already that supertelephoto lens [400 or 500 or 600].

I have 300mm and 100-400 and i am planning to give Sigma or Tamron 150-600 a test, but i don't shoot wildlife or birds yet, and i shoot sports with 300 and it is giving me great results so far on my 1 series cameras, but now all talk about 7DII i am not sure if it will be a better choice beside 1DX or over 1DX.
 
It will go well with the 1DX but if you're not reach limited then the 1DX is still the one to have. Especially if you've already got one. I changed a 5d3 for the MkII to go alongside my 1DX. Best of both worlds.
 
Gaz J said:
It will go well with the 1DX but if you're not reach limited then the 1DX is still the one to have. Especially if you've already got one. I changed a 5d3 for the MkII to go alongside my 1DX. Best of both worlds.
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True, so i will see if 7D2 is a good option or wait more again until a camera will hit the market with super AF and higher mp than 20mp and great high ISO capability and not forget high fps [minimum 10 or 12]
 
Canon Bob said:
I minor diversion if I may.....

Is there a specific name for the type/profile of USB connector on the 7D2?

Bob
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If you mean the socket on the camera itself then it's a USB 3 specific type socket. I don't quite know that for a fact but I've only seen it on USB 3 devices so I gonna go with that!

I typed that and then decided to Google! USB 3.0 Micro-B plug is that it's called :)
 
Gaz J said:
If it's the standard flat one that is on pen drives it's a type A Bob.
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Nope....it's smaller and has an indent in it.

Phal said:
If you mean the socket on the camera itself then it's a USB 3 specific type socket. I don't quite know that for a fact but I've only seen it on USB 3 devices so I gonna go with that!

I typed that and then decided to Google! USB 3.0 Micro-B plug is that it's called :)
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Thanks, you're a better "Googler" than I am....I tried various options and go nowhere.

Bob
 
Canon Bob said:
Nope....it's smaller and has an indent in it.



Thanks, you're a better "Googler" than I am....I tried various options and go nowhere.

Bob
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I just Googled USB 3 and checked the wiki page on that hehe

Those are the kinds of skills you build when working in IT :D
 
TareqPhoto said:
True, so i will see if 7D2 is a good option or wait more again until a camera will hit the market with super AF and higher mp than 20mp and great high ISO capability and not forget high fps [minimum 10 or 12]
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That might be the update to the 1DX but I don't think you'll be seeing a huge increase in MP for these top of the range sports/action cameras. Also if Canon cannot increase the resolution without increasing the noise then it's pretty pointless. What Canon need to do is improve the lower ISO dynamic range and colour sensitivity of their sensors which is where the Nikon/Sony sensors are stronger. At higher ISO it's a much more even contest. Also writing big files to memory cards at 12 FPS is going to need some processing power and/or large buffers. So an increase in write speed to the cards would have to be part of it also. I'm sure they can do it but whether they want to is a different matter.
 
TareqPhoto said:
True, so i will see if 7D2 is a good option or wait more again until a camera will hit the market with super AF and higher mp than 20mp and great high ISO capability and not forget high fps [minimum 10 or 12]
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Out of interest, Tareq, why do you feel that you need more than 20 MP-or 18 for that matter if you get a 1 Dx?....I'm sure that such a camera will eventually be available, but with the 1 Dx, even cropping substantially, I can still print A2 without any difficulty......do you really need more than 12 FPS?....there's a great danger in getting carried away with camera specifications and pixel peeping and forgetting what the main point is..ie to produce images that are acceptable to you in the size and and quality you really need, and as others and I have said, we'd have preferred 16ish MP and a better noise performance at higher ISO, my reason for this is I shoot wildlife primarily and sometimes, e.g. in Scotland or Alaska, the light can be poor and to get the shot with a tele or s/tele you need a higher shutter speed so don't have the luxury of being able to use the lower iso settings.
This for me is a limiting factor which I don't have to nearly the same extent with the 1 Dx, and so the 7D2 will be great but only in the better light conditions.
 
TareqPhoto said:
.......or wait more again until a camera will hit the market with super AF and higher mp than 20mp .....
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....and then wait considerably longer for lenses that can make use of all those pixels, Tareq.

Bob
 
I agree with Bob. Given that image quality is pretty much a given these days high ISO noise control is everything to wildlife and sports photographers. Whilst my photography is just a hobby I am quite happy using ISO's up to 6400 and expecting high quality results that will print at A3. They might take a bit of work to get the best out of them and that is something that I am still learning about.

That's about as high as I've pushed it but I will quite often bump the ISO up on quite a bright day to 1600-2000 to get a better shutter speed and the images need very little work in LR.
 
Lol I wonder what else we have in common :D

Yes I sometimes exposed to the shadow area and sometimes don't depending on what sort of images that I like to produce at the final image :)

RedRobin said:
....We are both named Robin, we both use a 27" iMac, and we both don't use NR on feathers! LOL :D We're the best, aren't we!?

I'll take your advice and watch how I slide :)

P.S.- I did far more shadow sliding in the second Buzzard shot which included the Crows - That one is really tricky with its extremes of light and dark areas.
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this is at 1920mm fov 1/2500 f8 iso 800 and quite a big crop.
Rob.
 
Because i like to crop a lot and i can't afford super telephotos which are more expensive than super bodies, 1 series best top price is nearly $8000 and it is going down by the time, while the lenses i need are over $10000 [400, 500, 600,...etc], so i always prefer to have more mp so i can have more room for cropping.

I have 1D2n and 1D3 and 1DX, i crop from them all using my 300 2.8IS and the best quality i get always is from 1DX no competition, so i think more mp will have advantage for me when i crop, and also i forgot to say that i want that high mp with high ISO and high fps on 1 series body, i am very happy with 1DX, just i was hoping if it was more than 20mp, at least 22mp as 5D3, but it is not a big issue, and what i said is just a wish, is it a crime if i want a camera with let's say 30mp and 15fps and great ISO @25600 with instant rocket AF? if it can happen then Perfecto WOW, if not it doesn't matter, if you don't need any improvements anymore fine with you and i understand, but other human being never get enough of any improvements every year.
 
George is focal any good have you used it before? As I have just had a quote for having my lens and camera calibrated at a canon repair center at £180 I could not believe it ?not sure it needs it or not I was just thinking of having it done for peace of mind
 
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Well, Kevin, I've been using it for a couple of years now since they brought out a Mac version and I use it to calibrate all my bodies and lenses, I find some lenses are pretty well matched to the bodies, but others require quite a bit of adjustment, I know there are other methods but for me it's worth it to take out the human error factor.

If it's just one body and one lens, however it is quite an expense.

George
 
I spent a long time checking my lenses including the 100-400 and most needed around +2 microadjustment. I gave the 100-400 a good workout today and am really not happy with the af even though it looked spot on using a test chart. I get the feeling that the mk2 is far more critical in this area than the mk1.
I looked up Reikan FoCal and it seems they do three versions all at different prices. Which one are you using George and do you find it as good as they claim on their website.
 
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Trev, I went for the top one, and I do find it useful, I'll post some of my settings later as I can't just now, my 1Dx is coming back from Elstreeafter getting a new mirror box fitted and so I can't get the settings till later...although i could look up exif on shots, it should be back later today...was scheduled for delivery on Tuesday but seemingly UPS Edinburgh have been in a complete shambles, getting any info has been all but impossible and I've been waiting in for 2 days for the delivery. their web site has been utterly hopeless but I'm hopeful it'll be here today so will post later.

Certainly some lenses are more than +/- 2..

Will be setting up my 7D today.

George.
 
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OK thanks George. I don't mind buying the top one so long as it does do the job its meant to do and not just advertising blurb, or containing features that us mere mortals would never use. I'd be interested to hear how you get on with the 7D2 when you set it up, see if you find the settings quite critical, or was it just me?

Trev
 
Every combination of lens and camera is likely to be different due to the manufacturing tolerances that add up to create the need to micro adjust.

Sharing settings won't really make a difference.

I also use focal which does help make it easier. The biggest issue is aligning the target correctly and having to manually change the setting every time on the 5d3 :(
 
It looks like the 7D2 has to be adjusted manually the same as the 5D3. Having never seen or used Focal, it looks pretty complex and you need a degree in optics, or does it all fall into place when your using it?
 
mipevo6 said:
Every combination of lens and camera is likely to be different due to the manufacturing tolerances that add up to create the need to micro adjust.

Sharing settings won't really make a difference.

I also use focal which does help make it easier. The biggest issue is aligning the target correctly and having to manually change the setting every time on the 5d3 :(
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No Martin, I wasn't suggesting sharing settings, I was really just posting some out of interest, I suspect mine are generally more than +/- 2, that's all.

Haven't tried the MFA with the 7D, I was hoping it was like the old 7D which was full automatic once set up, the 1 Dx and the 5D3 are at the moment the only Canon ones which aren't automatic, pity if the 7D2 is the same as it is a bit more fiddly, but once you've done it a few times it's ok.
I just like the fact that it takes subjective judgements out of the equation.
 
A copy of the compatibility chart from Reikan.

Camera AF CalibrationMSC Mode Mirror Lockup Wide & Tele Calibration
Canon EOS-1D Mark IIISUPPORTEDNONOT SUPPORTED NOT SUPPORTED
Canon EOS-1Ds Mark IIISUPPORTEDNO NOT SUPPORTED NOT SUPPORTED
Canon EOS 1D Mark IVSUPPORTEDNO SUPPORTED NOT SUPPORTED
Canon EOS-1D XSUPPORTEDYESSUPPORTEDSUPPORTED
Canon EOS 5D Mark IISUPPORTEDNO SUPPORTEDNOT SUPPORTED
Canon EOS 5D Mark IIISUPPORTEDYESSUPPORTEDSUPPORTED
Canon EOS 6DSUPPORTEDNO SUPPORTEDSUPPORTED
Canon EOS 7DSUPPORTEDNO SUPPORTEDNOT SUPPORTED
Canon EOS 7D Mark IISUPPORTEDYESSUPPORTEDSUPPORTED
Canon EOS 50DSUPPORTEDNO SUPPORTEDNOT SUPPORTED
Canon EOS 70DSUPPORTED

I wonder if this make the pro version no more helpful than the standard versions as far as the 7D2 is concerned.

PS. After posting, the chart hasn't copied correctly with the columns in place which makes it pretty useless, I have included the link though and that gives a full explanation. It shows that the 7D1 supports auto micro adjustment but the 7D2, 5D3, 1DX aren't supported.
 
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I tried focal some time ago and the biggest issue for me was actually finding the space to set it up as I didn't have a laptop at the time and the room where my computer is was too small so I didn't really get to give it a fair go.

Just stuck with my DIY affair since which seems to be accurate enough for me.

Slightly off topic. Has anyone come across anything about some cameras having AF inconsistency where they drift between front and back focus?
 
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Trev4 said:
I spent a long time checking my lenses including the 100-400 and most needed around +2 microadjustment. I gave the 100-400 a good workout today and am really not happy with the af even though it looked spot on using a test chart. I get the feeling that the mk2 is far more critical in this area than the mk1.
I looked up Reikan FoCal and it seems they do three versions all at different prices. Which one are you using George and do you find it as good as they claim on their website.
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The joys of new tech :rolleyes:
I've given up on the test chart route but much prefer real world setup and adjusting whilst out actually taking shots.
On one of my first 7ds the focus was very erratic so it went back and replaced with a perfectly good focussing body.
It should work straight out of the box so don't spend to much time or money on it Trev (y)
 
I find the most critical is the 500 f4. Given that I tend to shoot with it at around 10-15 metres sometimes less a small error can be quite noticeable. DOF at f4 at 10 metres is 8-10 cms depending on what you use to calculate it so just 2-3 increments off in MAF will show up.

I check at 25 times focal length and then check the finished result at various distances afterwards.

One of the most useful bits that i use is a nest box made from a stranded rope. If the lens is off that shows it straight away.

Finger still hovering Neil?
 
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