Haida 10 stop filters

TonyNI said:
Manually focus to infinity..
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Not the best recommendation as most lenses do not have a hard stop at infinity. That means it's possible to set the focus beyond infinity i.e. nothing is in focus.

OP > Learn about hyperfocal distance. It's a relationship between focal length and aperture that allows you to predict what will appear sharp in an image. It's useful because if you set the focus distance at or just beyond the hyperfocal distance for your given aperture, everything from half that distance to infinity should appear sharp. It's then a case of trying to make sure that most of your subject falls inside that range.

I have a self produced chart that lists the hyperfocal distance of my landscape lenses at the aperture and focal length I like to use. Typically 17mm, 24mm, 35mm, 50mm, 85mm and 135mm. from f4 to f16. Using Reikan focal, I not only have critical micro adjustment for each lens set, but also I know each lenses 'sweet' aperture. That way I try to keep within the sweet zone for each lens to get the best contrast & colour I can from my equipment.
 
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jimmy83 said:
Yeah I've been doing that so far...but what about if I was photography something like a pier what would you focus on? I use Center point focus 99% of the time.
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Focusing with a very dark ND filter is no different to normal, just focus first and then fit the filter.

Hyperfocal distance focusing is a great technique for landscapes. Lots of threads on that, good one here http://www.talkphotography.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=384043 HFD focusing is easy - see post #15.
 
I love the effect of 10 stop filters. I'd had a play around with a (about 12 stop) welding filter but as landscapes aren't usually my "thing", I didn't want to spend £100 on a filter.

Anyway here's my first attempt with one in Blackpool. Impressed with the quality of the filter and there's virtually no colour cast compared to the welding filter! Feedback/constructive criticism welcome :)


Blackpool Central Pier by northcountrygirl, on Flickr
 
Interesting reading guys. I have or havr had a few of the filters mentioned here. One thing I would say is if you want to use grads then stick to hitech or lee as you will sharp get sick of trying to run through this process if screwing on a 10 stop then putting the lee or hitech slot system over it :/ One good idea is if you own the above systems and want to use grads go for a 6 stop as you can still compose with it on. I have a Hoya nd 64 which I put my lee kit on after. At sunrise this is great. In daylight I even add my hitech 10 stop over the Hoya 6 stop. Sometimes even in bright daylight 10 just isn't enough. For this I'm looking into the minutes rather than seconds to give the sea a flat milky appearance or turning clouds into full on streaks :D
Check out a guy called Joel Tjintjelaar on Flickr or 500px and look at his fine art mono stuff.
 
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Been over to the Lakes with my 77mm Haida recently. Just a shame the weather wasn't a bit better.

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GIZTO29 said:
Interesting reading guys. I have or havr had a few of the filters mentioned here. One thing I would say is if you want to use grass then stick to hitech or lee as you will sharp get sick of trying to run through this process if screwing on a 10 stop then putting the lee or hitech slot system over it :/ One good idea is if you own the above systems and want to use grads go for a 6 stop as you can still compose with it on. I have a Hoya nd 64 which I put my lee kit on after. At sunrise this is great. In daylight I even add my hitech 10 stop over the Hoya 6 stop. Sometimes even in bright daylight 10 just isn't enough. For this I'm looking into the minutes rather than seconds to give the sea a flat milky appearance or turning clouds into full on streaks :D
Check out a guy called Joel Tjintjelaar on Flickr or 500px and look at his fine art mono stuff.
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Hey man, I kinda dig where you're coming from .(y)
 
Thanks to all who contributed. This thread help me make up my mind to give the Haida a go. It also motivated me to join this forum. So here's to my first post :)
 
David_G said:
Thanks to all who contributed. This thread help me make up my mind to give the Haida a go. It also motivated me to join this forum. So here's to my first post :)
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Welcome David. There are few posters on here from Oz :)
 
Yep that looks like the one I bought, was from that seller too.
 
I want to get one of these for my Canon 18-55 lens and they're only £20 to fit a 58mm lens - so a nice cheap start for my first ND filter. My only concern is how easy is it to work with a rotating front lens. Does anyone know? Thanks.
 
The mrs has bought me the haida pro2 for crimbo. I look forward to having a play.
 
I've been giving this some thought. I'm not going to be using anything other than my wide angle lens for the stuff that I do. A Lee Foundation kit, plus wide angle adaptor and the 100 Big Stopper would cost me £198 in all, plus a 2 month wait for the big stopper. For a first time dabble in long exposures I think I'd be stupid not to go down the Haida route.
 
northcountrygirl said:
I love the effect of 10 stop filters. I'd had a play around with a (about 12 stop) welding filter but as landscapes aren't usually my "thing", I didn't want to spend £100 on a filter.

Anyway here's my first attempt with one in Blackpool. Impressed with the quality of the filter and there's virtually no colour cast compared to the welding filter! Feedback/constructive criticism welcome :)


Blackpool Central Pier by northcountrygirl, on Flickr
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That is lovely. I've been using a piece of welders glass glued to the frame of an old 77mm UV filter and it works to a certain extent. If I'm shooting at a 90 degree angle to the sun I get this weird purple fog across the middle of my image horizontally. It's ruined some nicely composed images. I'm looking forward to seeing what the Haida can do on my camera.
 
Recieved my filter today, must say the packaging is nice for a filter in this price range and looking at the build it seems good too. Will put it to the test this weekend.
 
Some shot from today, quickly edited, using the Haida 10 stop ND filter. Possible under exposed but it was a quick in and out job so to speak.

 
KayJay said:
Some shot from today, quickly edited, using the Haida 10 stop ND filter. Possible under exposed but it was a quick in and out job so to speak.

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is this the new pro2 or the original?
 
KayJay said:
Hi Robert. This is the new pro 2 filter
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Thanks. I got one for Christmas but haven't has chance to test it yet. I took a shot in the house at 10mm at the vignette is huge. I notice some on yours even at 17mm. I'm impressed with the colour cast thought it less than a lot of others.
 
I think the vignette is a problem at the widest. I am going to test it out at 20mm up where I think the vignette should be more controlled. In some other images I managed to remove it and expose the hidden detail.
 
I was expecting a bit at 10mm but its a lot, but its covering most of the frame. I've not read anyone mentioning the problem on reviews. I'm sure i can fix it in post.
 
rjbell said:
I was expecting a bit at 10mm but its a lot, but its covering most of the frame. I've not read anyone mentioning the problem on reviews. I'm sure i can fix it in post.
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Darkening of the corners with wide-angles is inevitable, and it's quite severe with ultra-wides - a few stops.

At wider angles, the lens see through the filter at an angle, so it's therefore thicker and darker. Correction in post processing is the only answer.

It sometimes looks quite attractive, and often ensures that you don't need a grad as well ;)
 
Ordered one earlier today after reading about it here and the positive feedback on it, for less than £37 for the 67mm it has got to be worth taking a chance on, hoping it will be with me on Monday, so some nice weather would be good to give it a try next week, never used one before so the results should be.... um interesting :LOL:
 
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HoppyUK said:
Darkening of the corners with wide-angles is inevitable, and it's quite severe with ultra-wides - a few stops.

At wider angles, the lens see through the filter at an angle, so it's therefore thicker and darker. Correction in post processing is the only answer.

It sometimes looks quite attractive, and often ensures that you don't need a grad as well ;)
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Yes i know, but its more than i expected. Comparing the ring profile with my hoya pro1 its about the same but causes more vignette, even more than the cokin p series at first glance, I've not properly tested it yet though.
 
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KayJay said:
That is lovely. I've been using a piece of welders glass glued to the frame of an old 77mm UV filter and it works to a certain extent. If I'm shooting at a 90 degree angle to the sun I get this weird purple fog across the middle of my image horizontally. It's ruined some nicely composed images. I'm looking forward to seeing what the Haida can do on my camera.
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That sounds like light leaking in through the viewfinder or somewhere. I've noticed that too on my welding glass setup and it goes away when I remember to close the viewfinder window.
 
essexash said:
That sounds like light leaking in through the viewfinder or somewhere. I've noticed that too on my welding glass setup and it goes away when I remember to close the viewfinder window.
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Good point, will need to take some tape with me next time!
 
just realised there is a slim and standard version and my GF bought the standard one how annoying!
 
rjbell said:
Yes i know, but its more than i expected. Comparing the ring profile with my hoya pro1 its about the same but causes more vignette, even more than the cokin p series at first glance, I've not properly tested it yet though.
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That's not the same thing. It's not the depth/profile of the mount/ring actually protruding into the corners of the picture, but optical vignetting due to the effective thickness of the glass that the lens sees through at an angle which gets thicker towards the edges.

For example, if that angle was 45 degrees, the glass would be roughly 50% thicker and 50% darker, ie not ten stops but 15. In practise it's less than that but hard to calculate because the angle is not the field of view, but the angle created between the lens' entrance pupil and the edge of the frame and that varies according to individual lens design as well as focal length.
 
Hi Guys

Thinking of getting one of these, just wondering which to get the normal or the slim?

Is that just a preference thing or would there be a differance?
 
Hi I am looking to get one of these but hoping someone can explain how the sizing of filters work. I currently have a 18-55mm and a 50mm 1.8 and i've been told i'll need a 52mm for the 50 and a 58mm for the 18-55.

In future thought what if I buy bigger lenses? Is it possible to buy a bigger filter and an adaptor for smaller lenses?
 
simonmoran said:
Hi I am looking to get one of these but hoping someone can explain how the sizing of filters work. I currently have a 18-55mm and a 50mm 1.8 and i've been told i'll need a 52mm for the 50 and a 58mm for the 18-55.

In future thought what if I buy bigger lenses? Is it possible to buy a bigger filter and an adaptor for smaller lenses?
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I know the 18-55 is 52mm look on the inside of the lens cap.
 
simonmoran said:
Hi I am looking to get one of these but hoping someone can explain how the sizing of filters work. I currently have a 18-55mm and a 50mm 1.8 and i've been told i'll need a 52mm for the 50 and a 58mm for the 18-55.

In future thought what if I buy bigger lenses? Is it possible to buy a bigger filter and an adaptor for smaller lenses?
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It's the other way around.
 
simonmoran said:
In future thought what if I buy bigger lenses? Is it possible to buy a bigger filter and an adaptor for smaller lenses?
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Yes, for example you can buy the 77mm filter and get step-up rings for 50mm lenses and 52mm lenses which will let you mount the larger filter sizes to smaller lenses.
 
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