Haida 10 stop filters

came across this thread while looking for a 10 stopper.

which one should I go for? the PROII or Slim version?

to be used on full frame at 17mm on 17-40mm f4L.
 
wuyanxu said:
came across this thread while looking for a 10 stopper.

which one should I go for? the PROII or Slim version?

to be used on full frame at 17mm on 17-40mm f4L.
Click to expand...

It's only £3 difference between the slim and non slim, just get the slim.
 
Not sure it is. The glass will be the same just a slim ring profile.
 
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Yep my mrs bough the non slim by mistake for crimbo, they were nice enough to swap it for me for the slim which is much better on my sigma 10-20
 
Slightly off subject, but has anyone used a Haida polarizing filter, obviously not with a 10 stopper? :)
 
thank you. ordered the PROII Slim version :D

I use Hoya HD CPL, 77mm were £56 when I bought it, now gone up to £80 odd unfortunately.
 
Typical - a mate tells me about these good & cheap 10 stoppers he's just found out about from another mate, so I buy one (arrived a couple of days ago) only to find out that...

The whole World already knows about them !!! :bonk::bonk::bonk:

Well TP anyway, with this huge thread :LOL:



Note to self: check equipment forum sometimes too :D

Now if I can only get a Bride & Groom to stay perfectly still for a 5 min exposure :)

Dave
 
So I received my 10 stopper. There appears to have quite heavy vignetting, 2 stops by my estimation. (was 17mm on full frame)



ignore poor IQ, just a quick very high ISO test.

is it normal? :shrug:
 
Interested in trying one of these out when I finally find the time to get out and about! Wondering whether I'd be better off getting the 52mm version for my 35mm 1.8/g or the 67mm version for my 18-105mm kit lens? I had the sigma 10-20mm previously but sold it on as it wasn't getting the use to justify the cost, so need opinions on which lens to buy for, for landscapes? :)
 
wuyanxu said:
So I received my 10 stopper. There appears to have quite heavy vignetting, 2 stops by my estimation. (was 17mm on full frame)



ignore poor IQ, just a quick very high ISO test.

is it normal? :shrug:
Click to expand...

Yes, it's inevitable with a wide-angle. See post #187
 
bazfoster said:
Interested in trying one of these out when I finally find the time to get out and about! Wondering whether I'd be better off getting the 52mm version for my 35mm 1.8/g or the 67mm version for my 18-105mm kit lens? I had the sigma 10-20mm previously but sold it on as it wasn't getting the use to justify the cost, so need opinions on which lens to buy for, for landscapes? :)
Click to expand...

The 18-105 IMO
 
Just received my 67mm version of this and after a brief test in the garden at lunchtime, seems decent enough indeed. I'll have a practice with this on the wider end of my 18-105mm Kit lens before deciding on something like the Tokina 11-16 or the Tokina 12-28 f/4 lens that's been muted I think I saw on this forum earlier.
 
Lbm said:
Ordered mine a couple of days ago.

I also bought a 72mm-77 mm step up filter ring adapter, so I can use it not only on my Siggy 10-20mm but now on my Tamron 17-50mm VC too :)

All for £54.94 to the door :)
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step up filter ring adapter??? what do those look like?
 
wuyanxu said:
So I received my 10 stopper. There appears to have quite heavy vignetting, 2 stops by my estimation. (was 17mm on full frame)



ignore poor IQ, just a quick very high ISO test.

is it normal? :shrug:
Click to expand...

I got this much with the standard. Once i swapped for the slim it was better.
 
Do you guys cover the viewfinder with the cover on the camera strap each time?
 
jimmy83 said:
Do you guys cover the viewfinder with the cover on the camera strap each time?
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Yes, you absolutely must cover the viewfinder.

There is a small amount of light that gets in there and creeps around tiny gaps in the mirror. In normal use, this is insignificant relative to the light coming through the lens, plus you usually have your face shading it. But with a ten stop ND that relationship is dramatically changed and you effectively have 1000x more light coming through the eyepiece and it will make a mess.
 
HoppyUK said:
Yes, you absolutely must cover the viewfinder.

There is a small amount of light that gets in there and creeps around tiny gaps in the mirror. In normal use, this is insignificant relative to the light coming through the lens, plus you usually have your face shading it. But with a ten stop ND that relationship is dramatically changed and you effectively have 1000x more light coming through the eyepiece and it will make a mess.
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Where did u hear this from lol. Don't need to such a thing
 
That Canon article says a slight risk of light entering the eyepiece...not 1000x more light

I think there's some confusion of someone's part..
 
jonneymendoza said:
I've never had to do that and all my shots come out fine
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Then you've been lucky.

damianmkv said:
That Canon article says a slight risk of light entering the eyepiece...not 1000x more light

I think there's some confusion of someone's part..
Click to expand...

If you put a ten stops ND filter over the lens, that's a reduction in exposure of 1024x. Therefore, any light entering the viewfinder is increased, relative to the exposure, by 1024x.

That's where the problem is. No confusion. Try it, in normal daylight, with and without covering the viewfinder. Some cameras are better than others, but all DSLRs are affected. That's why cameras have eye-piece blinds or supply an accessory cover.

Edit: That Canon link above is not discussing long exposures with an ND filter, but using the self-timer in normal light. With an auto-exposure mode, that can upset the meter reading and therefore the exposure settings. Different issue, but same solution.
 
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gridlock said:
Do you use live view, maybe?
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Live view makes no difference - light is still coming in through the viewfinder. Only electronic viewfinders are unaffected.
 
o.k ... just from a curious point of view! .. from someone who fancy's dipping his toes into this type of photography ... is it worth a go at sub £50????

would be buying one to chuck on my 24-105 and Tokina 11-16 ...Canon 5D3
(might be worth a shout on the tokina as i have a nice sharp copy .. now its on the 5D3 its only really good at the 15-16mm end!.. this might give it a new lease of life ;-)
 
jonneymendoza said:
Not when people said how a spec of light that foes through a viewfinder can affect your image.
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Why are you arguing? It happens. Fact. If you haven't suffered it yet, you're lucky - but you will.

This is the first example that came up on google, though there are many of others and there have been plenty on here too. http://www.thaidphoto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=268035

This is helpful advice, freely given, but you're just dissing it. Suit yourself.
 
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