The Official Fuji X10/X20/X30/XF1/XQ1 Thread

Has it been mentioned that if the camera doesn't power up when you twist the lens you can press and hold the display button to switch on playback, then half press the shutter release to enter shooting mode?

Read it somewhere and it works for me.
 
Mine is back and I'll check it out over the next few days. The flash doesn't seem to pop up as quick or clean as before and I don't remember it taking that long to write to the SD Card (class 10) We'll see...
 
No it hasn't Ed - and an idea I'll try if I come across the problem with the new camera. Thanks :)

Thanks for the pic Duncan :)

Looks a bit like Ardnamurchan lighthouse? I make this call based on sea (looks like Atlantic), weather (windswept and cold) and backed by a beautiful beach in the distance. But I'm no lighthouse expert and at risk of being flamed - find them all a bit "same'ish" ;-)

I wonder how good the X10 is at star trails. Must try and find out. In fact a lighthouse (inactive) makes quite the spectacle framed a star trail shot.

Even though my camera was sent off I didn’t ask for a sensor replacement. Want to wait to hear about dynamic range effects etc before I take the plunge.

Do you have a place you’ve shared the candid’s?
 
Doh! Just thought - with a max shutter speed of 60 seconds not going to get much of a star trail *blush*
 
well mine came back, not only the same camera but the same box i sent it off in! I couldnt work out how they would know it was my camera once it was out of the delivery bag, so i wrote my name and address on the box, and i got the same one back. So at least they seem organised out there :)

Will give it a good go over the weekend probably, piddling down at the moment so not going anywhere near the outdoors for now.
 
I could be wrong but my initial impression is that the images (JPEG) are a little less punchy than before, not quite as colourful. Previously I could use them straight OOC, but I'm having to do a bit of work on these. It could just be the dreary shots I'm taking of course ... I'll try and test properly over the weekend.
 
Lindsay D said:
I could be wrong but my initial impression is that the images (JPEG) are a little less punchy than before, not quite as colourful. Previously I could use them straight OOC, but I'm having to do a bit of work on these. It could just be the dreary shots I'm taking of course ... I'll try and test properly over the weekend.
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Oh - that sounds a bit concerning. Can I ask what mode you sre using to shoot the tests in? Also did you play with the on board colorspace or colour settings? I'm guessing they will have all been reset on the sensor/lens change and that would lead to slight differences.
 
Lindsay D said:
I could be wrong but my initial impression is that the images (JPEG) are a little less punchy than before, not quite as colourful. Previously I could use them straight OOC, but I'm having to do a bit of work on these. It could just be the dreary shots I'm taking of course ... I'll try and test properly over the weekend.
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Not sure that would bother me at all, as I ended up with the colour turned right down. I am not keen on over bright images. At the standard setting The reds were close to their limit of clipping most of the time.
 
Ed Sutton said:
Read it somewhere and it works for me.
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That sounds easier than the 1-Banana 2-Banana method I posted. I'll give it a go - ta (y)

Bruin said:
Mine is back and I'll check it out over the next few days. The flash doesn't seem to pop up as quick or clean as before and I don't remember it taking that long to write to the SD Card (class 10) We'll see...
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There's also some reports of increased noise at ISO 100 and a hypothesis that they may have done tricks like add star shapes to the edge of the orbs.
Gonna be an interesting few weeks on the forums!

souldeep said:
Thanks for the pic Duncan :)
Looks a bit like Ardnamurchan lighthouse? I make this call based on sea (looks like Atlantic), weather (windswept and cold) and backed by a beautiful beach in the distance. But I'm no lighthouse expert and at risk of being flamed - find them all a bit "same'ish" ;-)
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LOL - I know what you mean.
Saying I went and visited a lighthouse does sound a bit nerdy.
But this was in France and Health & Safety hasn't made it there yet; I was still on an adrenaline high 30 mins after we drove away.
The girl on the counter walked us to the lighthouse, unlocked the door, told us to enjoy ourselves and shut the door behind us - flippin brilliant, proper scary and ABSOLUTELY no way they would LET us do that in the UK.

souldeep said:
Doh! Just thought - with a max shutter speed of 60 seconds not going to get much of a star trail *blush*
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Long exposure is one way of doing star trails, and you are right, the X10 cannot do them; but I prefer the lots of 30s exposures technique.
I've not tried it with the X10, but I can't see why it shouldn't work.
Here's my favourite resource on the subject....
http://www.liquidinplastic.com/2008/06/startrails/

souldeep said:
Do you have a place you’ve shared the candid’s?
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Not yet, but I'll happily put up a link once I've got them sorted out.
Here's one from the X10 to be going on with; the X10 did all the wide shots.
I did say it was a drinking holiday :D:D:D
i-q2MkPnM-M.jpg
 
Had a phone call from home this morning, Mr Citylink dropped off a parcel for me. Just got home and my X10 was in it.
Jobsheet says only the cmos sensor was changed, which was good because the lens was a cracker. Just got to find my batteries and give it the once over.
Funny thing, the camera seems smaller than I remember :thinking:

Allan
 
allanm said:
Funny thing, the camera seems smaller than I remember :thinking:Allan
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:LOL:

Oh how quickly we forget little details, be them good or bad (latter more common), when parted from a lover for too long. Congratulations on your reuniting. I bet your X10 will get one hell of a going over once you’re home tonight ;)

Duncan thanks for the link... fascinating. Bit like HDR concept. Sounds like a challenge to try with the X10 some time. BTW - just co-incidence I'm sure but the blonde lady in the middle of the barrels is a spitting of someone I know that works for news international here in London.

Lindsay – I’m sorry to hear that. I’m surprised it’s the case but at least its manageable in camera. Firstly check if you are shooting sRGB or Adobe. Adobe will give you a better colour range. sRGB is the default after a reset. Next I’d look at the shooting menu and go to the color option. This can be set via five levels from high to low. Also could it possible that in M mode the film was set to Provia but is now Astia? You notice subtle differences in colour between the two. Finally could the white balance be set a bit on the cold side for the weather? Anyway not trying to teach others to suck eggs – just throwing around some ideas.

The ISO 100 grain increase is the most concerning issue I've heard so far. I'd love to see some examples of tests if anyone has a link?
 
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allanm said:
I think they compliment each other perfectly. The menus are the same layout for both and you can customise them so they look the same. It makes it much easier when swapping from one to the other. IQ from the x100 is definitely better, but the X10 images are very close unless you are doing heavy cropping.
My only advice is to get a bag that holds them both and isn't too big or bulky. I eventually settled on a Domke F-803. I got the Ruggedwear version. It's expensive but is exactly what I have been looking for.
Allan
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thanks Allan
 
souldeep said:
Lindsay – I’m sorry to hear that. I’m surprised it’s the case but at least its manageable in camera. Firstly check if you are shooting sRGB or Adobe. Adobe will give you a better colour range. sRGB is the default after a reset. Next I’d look at the shooting menu and go to the color option. This can be set via five levels from high to low. Also could it possible that in M mode the film was set to Provia but is now Astia? You notice subtle differences in colour between the two. Finally could the white balance be set a bit on the cold side for the weather? Anyway not trying to teach others to suck eggs – just throwing around some ideas.
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I know the camera well - everything is as it should be. I'm seeing some variance in sensor behaviour (which I suspected might be the case) though this can be overcome. It'll take me a couple of weeks to get a better picture of any changes. However I suspect less experienced users may not even notice these slight differences, and I don't think anyone should be worried.
 
Lindsay D said:
I know the camera well - everything is as it should be. I'm seeing some variance in sensor behaviour (which I suspected might be the case) though this can be overcome. It'll take me a couple of weeks to get a better picture of any changes. However I suspect less experienced users may not even notice these slight differences, and I don't think anyone should be worried.
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Cheers Lindsay (y)
Keep the feedback coming.
 
ok heres one i just quickly did for all you orb monkeys.
Camera was in manual mode, iso at auto400 raw, i just exported to a jpeg from lightroom
We have wet floors, dark areas, street lights a plenty but we dont seem to have any orb action. Job done.

 
I definitely cannot see any orbs there, in fact I can't see anything at all :)
 
Lindsay D said:
I know the camera well - everything is as it should be. I'm seeing some variance in sensor behaviour (which I suspected might be the case) though this can be overcome. It'll take me a couple of weeks to get a better picture of any changes. However I suspect less experienced users may not even notice these slight differences, and I don't think anyone should be worried.
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OK just offering some ideas based on what little I've learnt about the camera :) Hoping to find someone offer a comprehensive comparison test before I decide to upgrade the sensor.

Does anyone know why some people are getting a sensor and lens replacement whilst others are only getting a sensor replacement?
 
Paul - nice photo but looks a tad on the dark side on my screen at work. You processing on a laptop? I find my pictures look darker on standalone monitors than my laptop screen.
 
souldeep said:
Paul - nice photo but looks a tad on the dark side on my screen at work. You processing on a laptop? I find my pictures look darker on standalone monitors than my laptop screen.
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Looks fine to me the important details in the flower look just right.
I have no problem letting the background go dark.
 
souldeep said:
OK just offering some ideas based on what little I've learnt about the camera :) Hoping to find someone offer a comprehensive comparison test before I decide to upgrade the sensor.

Does anyone know why some people are getting a sensor and lens replacement whilst others are only getting a sensor replacement?
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I am not happy with a sensor with orbs spoiling some pictures, for that reason alone, I have sent mine in.

Such pictures that have been shown using the new sensor, have resolved the Orb problem, and have been of excellent quality in other respects.

Any test between two sensors will show up differences in the way they perform. That is a certainty. However I see no reason to suppose the new sensor is "less good" in any practical way, and there is certainly no obvious evidence of it.

As to them changing some lenses with the sensor and not others, I don't suppose they will ever publish the technical criteria for doing so. The reason is clearly something they are looking at, and I am happy that they are doing so. If mine does not need it , that is fine by me , it means I have a good one. Equally if I find they have changed the lens, I am sure that they would have found the problem, and corrected it.
 
Terrywoodenpic said:
Looks fine to me the important details in the flower look just right.
I have no problem letting the background go dark.
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I agree - it may just be my monitor at work then.

Hear what you're saying regarding the sensor change. Guess I'm just trying to play it really safe as going back to the old sensor won't be an option :)
 
Yep, it is too dark - and that is with my screen brightness set to give me a suntan...
 
Well at least it put a dent in the number of posts about boxes being delivered/sent ;)

On my home PC the image is about as good as you can get from the perspective of maximum detail on the rose petals and true to life colour. My monitor isn't by any means calibrated, just set-up to provide the 'right' balance for my printer. At work now I'd agree it looks underexposed.

The image below also looks great on my home monitor and printed with a wealth of detail on most of the petals but the lower ones are overexposed;

255db5cf.jpg


Paul
 
paul williams said:
Well at least it put a dent in the number of posts about boxes being delivered/sent ;)

On my home PC the image is about as good as you can get from the perspective of maximum detail on the rose petals and true to life colour. My monitor isn't by any means calibrated, just set-up to provide the 'right' balance for my printer. At work now I'd agree it looks underexposed.

The image below also looks great on my home monitor and printed with a wealth of detail on most of the petals but the lower ones are overexposed;

255db5cf.jpg


Paul
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Then I would say that makes sense. You have your images calibrated for print, not for web display. And yes - great to see some images getting posted :LOL:
 
souldeep said:
Then I would say that makes sense. You have your images calibrated for print, not for web display. And yes - great to see some images getting posted :LOL:
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Much of the time IMO the images I use are fine for both - its just that in this case with the extremes represented in the images where there is a far greater 'dark' area surrounding the flower the immediate response is 'underexposed' but in reality I don't believe it is as any further exposure would loose detail in the main subject - the flower petals. In most cases I take flowers into my little studio and use flash against a black background close cropped for the 'pop' factor. If I'd done that for these with a totally featureless background then I don't think there would have been any comment!

Not white petalled, but you get the idea;
aIMG_4066c.jpg

Image not from the X10 - though I will be using it with studio flash in the near future for outdoor shots.

Paul
 
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paul williams said:
Much of the time IMO the images I use are fine for both - its just that in this case with the extremes represented in the images where there is a far greater 'dark' area surrounding the flower the immediate response is 'underexposed' but in reality I don't believe it is as any further exposure would loose detail in the main subject - the flower petals. In most cases I take flowers into my little studio and use flash against a black background close cropped for the 'pop' factor. If I'd done that for these with a totally featureless background then I don't think there would have been any comment!

Not white petalled, but you get the idea;
aIMG_4066c.jpg

Image not from the X10 - though I will be using it with studio flash in the near future for outdoor shots.

Paul
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Lovely shot :) I see your point and you certainly get away with this one being darker but on my monitor it still looks a little underexposed.

I've never thought of setting up my own little internal studio for digital photography. Last I had done anything like that it was a dark room with my enlarger, trays and fixing chemicals 20 odd years back. Wow I do miss that style of developing. The smells were very comforting ;)

What’s your set up like? A shed? Do you use a black cloth to back the shots?
 
Just got my Email from Fuji saying my camera on it way back to me, they only got it Monday so 4 days turnaround, so maybe it does help to send it off yourself rather than in the pre paid package, or i 've just got lucky eitherway im glad it on it's way back now :).
 
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DayDreamer said:
Just called (0844 553 2322) and call answered instantly!!
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I've finally done so myself...
10/10 for initial impressions of Fuji customer service.

I've held off because I needed the X10 for last week's trip, and I wanted some assurance the replacement is not going to ruin some other aspects of the X10 that I know and love.

So I've taken the plunge partly because of the encouraging noises you lot are making, and partly because the moaners over on dpreview are still relatively quiet (which is a VERY positive sign).

Here's some useful image comparisons that I found and are worth sharing.
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/readflat.asp?forum=1012&thread=41788421
Scary thing is they support the increased noise and less fine detail assertions being stated in other threads; but that's only evident while pixel peeping and the overall image quality still looks fine. And the lack of orbing should make the X10 far more usable to me covering concerts and festivals.
 
souldeep said:
I've never thought of setting up my own little internal studio for digital photography. Last I had done anything like that it was a dark room with my enlarger, trays and fixing chemicals 20 odd years back. Wow I do miss that style of developing. The smells were very comforting ;)

What’s your set up like? A shed? Do you use a black cloth to back the shots?
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I have what I call a 'shed' at the bottom of the garden, though in truth it is a substantial brick building - but it is where I go to do stuff that the family aren't interested in or would cause an upheaval in the main house. It isn't very big and besides my studio equipment also operates as a home cinema and houses my stereo which has a totally negative WAF (Wife Acceptance Factor) so is bulging at the seams.

I'll go and cut one of those white rose's a little later and use the studio set-up. I have a black cloth background and my usual set-up is to use a square softbox top/slightly behind pointing down and then another front to one side.

One of the reasons I decided to try the X10 was it's ability to sync with flash at much higher shutter values than a DSLR which could give an interesting perspective for outdoor flash (using my studio lights and not hotshoe flash). So rather than use high powered flash units (which I don't have) to 'overpower' the sun I could use high shutter speeds to remove the effects of ambient light. My studio flash units are perfect indoors but a bit underpowered outside, though I have been known to use them in banks into an 80 inch 'brolly or use three heads into a 60 inch octobox but the 'faf' factor is quite big and I don't do the outside thing much these days for these reasons. A quick play indoors a few nights ago would suggest no problem syncing at 1/2000th sec but I am restricted to using a cable as the fastest wireless trigger I have maxes out at just under a 1/500th.
 
Wilky76 said:
Just got my Email from Fuji saying my camera on it way back to me, they only got it Monday so 4 days turnaround, so maybe it does help to send it off yourself rather than in the pre paid package, or i 've just got lucky eitherway im glad it on it's way back now :).
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Me too..........they got it on the 15th, so that's not a bad turnaround time:) Mind you, now it's in the Postal system????
 
souldeep said:
OK just offering some ideas based on what little I've learnt about the camera :) Hoping to find someone offer a comprehensive comparison test before I decide to upgrade the sensor.

Does anyone know why some people are getting a sensor and lens replacement whilst others are only getting a sensor replacement?
Click to expand...

I know what you mean, but good comparison tests are usually thin on the ground - I bit the bullet and sent mine in. But I am definitely seeing differences between the old and new sensor, whether this is just down to the sensor I got or if what I'm seeing is a feature of all the new sensors remains to be seen. I certainly have more testing to do. But I can safely say that I could not produce orbs. Might be best for you to wait until the opinions on the new sensor start to flow. I'm not saying there's anything wrong with the new sensor - I'm just saying that it's a little different to the original.
 
I've taken a couple of quick test shots to see if I could recreate orbs, and I couldn't. The highlights now seem to show similar results to the images I get from my X100, which is a very good thing.
I think I have noticed a little more noise in some higher iso shots, it could be my imagination, but overall, there doesn't seem to be any obvious changes in the shots bsc or asc. Mind you, I have only taken a handful of shots around the garden, I need to get out and have a proper try.
Saturday is out because I think I will be spending most of that trying not to seriously injure the staff at Carphone Warehouse who have taken a week to sort out my new phone contract, and done nothing!

Allan

bsc= before sensor change.......
 
I am considering purchasing an X-10 and would like to ask if it is suitable for airshow photography? Mainly for static shots, not flying & also inside shots at museums? Hope its not a dumb question & I am a beginner in terms of skill.
 
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