Recent content by HoppyUK

The trigger was the R2 Pro2. That link is dated 2015 so a lot might have happened since. Canon is known for changing things with new camera models, both lens and flash protocols, and I don't know what the situation is now with the new mirrorless cameras. As the boss of Sigma UK once told me...

Good thought Owen (y) So I tried it... and you are both right and wrong! With the Godox V1 speedlite in the Canon 5D2's hot-shoe and shutter speed on B, 2nd-curtain sync fires the flash at the end of the exposure as it should. But hook up a Godox trigger, set to 2nd-curtain sync on B, and the...

I don't envy anyone running a course and expected to know the ins and outs of every camera's flash system :oops: :$ They're all a bit different, especially in the details, and may or may not have all features. I don't find any of them particularly intuitive and if you don't use them regularly...

Press the sync button on the trigger and it scrolls through 1st-curtain, 2nd-curtain and HSS. Strangely, on my Canon 5D2 the in-camera menu is greyed out for 2nd-curtain even when the trigger is attached and switched on and set to 2nd-curtain, but the flash definitely fires on 2nd-curtain when...

Rear-curtain sync is a feature of every Canon DSLR and speedlite I've ever used. The anomaly is that it's not a feature of Canon flash triggers but is widely available with other brands, eg Godox. On some Godox strobes there is also a delay function on the unit itself to fine-tune rear-curtain...

The particular shutter speed when rear-curtain sync is enabled is kind of irrelevant anyway. Canon certainly states 1/30sec and I thought Nikon too, but either way what makes this technique effective is a long enough exposure to create some significant ambient blur before the flash fires, and in...

Be aware that rear-curtain sync is not actually enabled until the shutter speed drops below 1/30sec (see handbook) even when it is switched on. Even then, it is more like 'middle-curtain' sync and not really effective until shutter speeds get a couple of stops longer than that - the longer the...

I think I've used every Godox trigger and the XT32 is my favourite - small and light with a clear and easy user-interface. My go-to trigger is the FlashPoint R2 Pro2 because it just does everything very well but, within its limitations, the XT32 is nicer to use IMHO - neat and simple(y)

Correct exposure is like filling a glass with water from a tap, exactly to the line - not too much, not too little. The lens aperture is how hard you turn on the tap. The shutter speed is how long you turn it on for. And ISO is the size of the glass. Raising ISO is like filling a smaller glass...

What we see as the colour of an object is actually the colour of the light reflected from its surface. So if there is only green light falling on the object, that's the only colour it can reflect and it will appear green, regardless of its full colour when viewed under normal white light, eg...

It's not that then! :eggface:

Recycle time? There's no evidence of flash firing at all in the second shot.

You're very welcome Manda :)

Guessing from what you've said, I'd say dodgy hot-shoe contacts but let's go through the process of elimination. D-Lite One is entry-level kit but well made and I'm not aware of any issues. I used them very happily for a few years before moving to Godox, primarily AD400Pros and mainly for...

It's always a good idea to include a grey card or grey scale and colour checker as a reference in post-processing to ensure consistently accurate colour and exposure. It will make your life easier and guard against potential complaints from customers so you can say with confidence that the...