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- Steve
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My next project camera hasn't arrived yet but I've started building components for it while my InsTLR build is on hold waiting for the printer to do some testing with PETG instead of ABS. I figured I may as well start a thread for it now to get my creative mind working :0)
As I'm planning on converting the Yashica to shoot 35mm full time and it's missing the original nameplate, I've decided it needs a new logo. I started playing around with ideas this afternoon and came up with this;
I'm going to draw up and print a new nameplate with the lettering standing out from it.
The second piece I need to work on after reading a few posts online about the conversion is the best way to get the film spacing right without having backing paper like the original 127 film. A few posts talk about turning the crank 1.5 times to start with and then reduce to a single turn part way through the roll of film. That sounds like a reasonable plan except my camera is a 44A with a knob instead of a crank so it's much harder to determine that.
I came across another post saying that each shot requires 12 sprocket holes between them to align properly and talked about using a piece of plastic from a binder to give a click at each sprocket which sounds to me like a pain to use and hear in anywhere other than a library! After thinking for a while and looking at counter gearing I thought about a basic digital counter using a clock chip and an LCD readout. After digging around I found these finger counters that are exactly what I need for the grand total of 99p!
These units have a basic circuit with a counter button, a reset button and an lcd screen that counts up every time the button is pressed. My plan is to replace the button with a small spring contact that the film is fed through so, as the film is wound on, the circuit is broken by the film between the sprocket holes. As the winding continues, the spring contact makes the circuit again as it reaches a sprocket hole and the screen displays the next number upwards. Assuming my plan works, I will just need to wind on until the counter displays 12, press the reset button to return it to zero and take the photo....simple
I've already made the Spring contact using a battery terminal taken from my donor Instax Mini and the hotshoe terminal from Wontolla's 35RC I built (thanks Baz!). I just had to grind the battery terminal down slightly to the width of the sprocket hole and it seems to be working as expected.
I bought the counter unit earlier today so should have it on Friday so I can start disassembling. If I can make it fit, I'm going to mount the lcd screen to the inside of the rear door so that the number is visible through the original sliding rear window used to check frame number :0)
Sorry for the long post, bit of a brain dump! Oh, I've also been in touch with CameraLeathers about a replacement black leather skin so that's ready to order, assuming I can actually get the camera to work in the first place!
Cheers
Steve
As I'm planning on converting the Yashica to shoot 35mm full time and it's missing the original nameplate, I've decided it needs a new logo. I started playing around with ideas this afternoon and came up with this;
I'm going to draw up and print a new nameplate with the lettering standing out from it.
The second piece I need to work on after reading a few posts online about the conversion is the best way to get the film spacing right without having backing paper like the original 127 film. A few posts talk about turning the crank 1.5 times to start with and then reduce to a single turn part way through the roll of film. That sounds like a reasonable plan except my camera is a 44A with a knob instead of a crank so it's much harder to determine that.
I came across another post saying that each shot requires 12 sprocket holes between them to align properly and talked about using a piece of plastic from a binder to give a click at each sprocket which sounds to me like a pain to use and hear in anywhere other than a library! After thinking for a while and looking at counter gearing I thought about a basic digital counter using a clock chip and an LCD readout. After digging around I found these finger counters that are exactly what I need for the grand total of 99p!
These units have a basic circuit with a counter button, a reset button and an lcd screen that counts up every time the button is pressed. My plan is to replace the button with a small spring contact that the film is fed through so, as the film is wound on, the circuit is broken by the film between the sprocket holes. As the winding continues, the spring contact makes the circuit again as it reaches a sprocket hole and the screen displays the next number upwards. Assuming my plan works, I will just need to wind on until the counter displays 12, press the reset button to return it to zero and take the photo....simple
I've already made the Spring contact using a battery terminal taken from my donor Instax Mini and the hotshoe terminal from Wontolla's 35RC I built (thanks Baz!). I just had to grind the battery terminal down slightly to the width of the sprocket hole and it seems to be working as expected.
I bought the counter unit earlier today so should have it on Friday so I can start disassembling. If I can make it fit, I'm going to mount the lcd screen to the inside of the rear door so that the number is visible through the original sliding rear window used to check frame number :0)
Sorry for the long post, bit of a brain dump! Oh, I've also been in touch with CameraLeathers about a replacement black leather skin so that's ready to order, assuming I can actually get the camera to work in the first place!
Cheers
Steve
