Helios 44 Thread - Russia's Best Kept Secret?

kendo1 said:
just checked Zenit under 'cameras' and there is one with lens attached, no bids yet, for £8, one owner.
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The Zenit-B is a body with negative value, it makes any lens attached cheaper :D

Also watch out for the alternate branding of the Helios 44, e.g. Auto Cosmogon.

Cagey75 said:
What other MF classics would you highly recommend
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CZJ Flektogon 35/2.4, another m42 lens. Probably my favourite vintage lens of them all, and a real multipurpose lens as it focuses incredibly close.
 
Just had a look at the prices fora Flektogon. Good grief, you could get a Zeiss Contax lens for those prices!
 
kendo1 said:
Just had a look at the prices fora Flektogon. Good grief, you could get a Zeiss Contax lens for those prices!
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Mine was £5 from a charity shop, normally I'd haggle but not on that occasion :D

.. and when I say it's my favourite and since you mention the Zeiss Contax lenses, it's sitting on the shelf next to a CZ Planar 50/1.4 (QBM rather than Contax) and I will always reach for the Flek' first.


If you're shooting mirrorless and have a wide range of adaptors available, the Minolta system is worth a look although it's not as big a secret as it used to be and prices have picked up a little. Some really nice lenses in their line-up, the Minolta MD Zoom 35-70/3.5 Macro is an excellent lens - a lens so good that Leitz bought them off the Minolta production line to re-badge for the Leica SLR.
 
Alastair said:
If you're shooting mirrorless and have a wide range of adaptors available, the Minolta system is worth a look although it's not as big a secret as it used to be and prices have picked up a little. Some really nice lenses in their line-up, the Minolta MD Zoom 35-70/3.5 Macro is an excellent lens - a lens so good that Leitz bought them off the Minolta production line to re-badge for the Leica SLR.
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As a former Minolta and current Sony & Nikon user, I find the optical quality of many 'ordinary' Nikon lenses relatively poor.
 
I had a Sony A200 years ago, and it mostly had a Minolta 50mm f/1.7 attached. Loved that lens. When I got the Nikon D200 and the 50mm 1.8D I was a bit disappointed. The Minolta was far better.
 
Cagey75 said:
I had a Sony A200 years ago, and it mostly had a Minolta 50mm f/1.7 attached. Loved that lens. When I got the Nikon D200 and the 50mm 1.8D I was a bit disappointed. The Minolta was far better.
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It's odd, because I've read reviews with the mino 50 1.7 compared negatively with the Canon & Nikon equivalents, but the reverse seems true, and while the older Nikon 50 1.4 AFD is reckoned soft (I have no experience) the Sony 50 1.4 is wonderful.
 
ancient_mariner said:
It's odd, because I've read reviews with the mino 50 1.7 compared negatively with the Canon & Nikon equivalents, but the reverse seems true, and while the older Nikon 50 1.4 AFD is reckoned soft (I have no experience) the Sony 50 1.4 is wonderful.
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I read similar at the time, but I was skint, and went with best I could get used. Someone recommended me the Minolta for the Sony, and I got one dirt cheap. I loved it, sharp, no fuss, fun to use in my experience. Then the Nikon drove me mad with it's loud whizzing AF, sluggish focus and I found the images not to be as sharp. Of course, could be I got a really good copy of the Minolta and a dud on the Nikon. And later I got the 50mm 1.8G, and well that blew them all out the water. But the Minolta was €60 or so

Forgot to add, for anyone not familiar with Sony, the old Minolta lenses had AF with the Sony dslrs, at least the 50 did with the A200
 
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There's a difference between the vintage manual focus Minolta MC/MD lenses and the later AF lenses. I'd always pick the MC/MD and avoid the AF - worth bearing in mind as many lenses appear in both guises and the AF is usually less well regarded.

 
Alastair said:
There's a difference between the vintage manual focus Minolta MC/MD lenses and the later AF lenses. I'd always pick the MC/MD and avoid the AF - worth bearing in mind as many lenses appear in both guises and the AF is usually less well regarded.

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At the time I had no clue tbh, once I seen the Minolta was AF compatible, it was a go for me for the price. Now, maybe being older, and not so in a hurry all the time :D I can appreciate MF lenses more.


These MF legacy lens discussions are dangerous too, because leading on from looking up your lens, I now kinda want a Minolta MC ROKKOR 58mm 1:1.2 :D Like everything, it always leads to more, better ... I'm good for 35mm - 58mm though, it's outside of those focal lengths I'm really interested in. Currently eyeing 135 - 200


Also, interested to know how you guys set up for MF? I have peaking set to white/high, with dual screen both on the LCD and in the VF, and since setting that dual screen mode I'm getting better results if I'm honest. Was just pushing the FA button for close in focus, but that can get a bit nauseating

Someone should set up a MF lens thread! We're gone way off the Helios now [which I shot with today btw, finding mine has a lot of play but ... what can you do? deal with it :D]
 
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Cagey75 said:
These MF legacy lens discussions are dangerous too, because leading on from looking up your lens, I now kinda want a Minolta MC ROKKOR 58mm 1:1.2 :D Like everything, it always leads to more, better ... I'm good for 35mm - 58mm though, it's outside of those focal lengths I'm really interested in. Currently eyeing 135 - 200
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Some of the latter MD lenses have better coatings than the older MC lenses and that could be a factor to consider. I've only had one MC lens and all of my Minolta lenses are now the latter MD's. I have the 50mm f1.2.
 
Cagey75 said:
Also, interested to know how you guys set up for MF? I have peaking set to white/high
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I use red low, the low settings are more accurate than the high.
 
Alastair said:
I use red low, the low settings are more accurate than the high.
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I rarely use white. Always changed to B&W (shooting JPEG & RAW) with red high for focus assist. The red stands out far more than the white I find but admit I haven't tried it on low yet.
 
In low the peaking has a thinner edge, the thicker peaking in high can sometimes mask the critical plane of focus with a fast lens wide open.
 
Interesting comments on peaking and different to my Sony A7 experience :D I use mid or high yellow for AF and rough MF zone focus sort of stuff, mid or high because in some light and with some subjects at the lower setting peaking sometimes simply isn't visible at all. For more accurate and deliberate manual focusing I switch it off.

I have it turned off on my MFT cameras.
 
Cagey75 said:
Also, interested to know how you guys set up for MF? I have peaking set to white/high, with dual screen both on the LCD and in the VF, and since setting that dual screen mode I'm getting better results if I'm honest. Was just pushing the FA button for close in focus, but that can get a bit nauseating
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Red & low ;) I have magnify set to C1 though which is easily accessible by touch - A7

Cagey75 said:
Someone should set up a MF lens thread! We're gone way off the Helios now [which I shot with today btw, finding mine has a lot of play but ... what can you do? deal with it :D]
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It's called 'character' ;)
 
LeeRatters said:
Red & low ;) I have magnify set to C1 though which is easily accessible by touch - A7



It's called 'character' ;)
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These old lenses have tonnes of character aye, but there is plenty of copies about without massive play on the focus ring It just takes getting used to. I like the dual screen, must try the red, low peaking also.
 
Amazing how looking through this thread and the ones on mu-43 make me want a Helios
 
Would really appreciate some help. It was only because of this thread that I have now acquired a Helios 44M. Looks clean & well cared for but not yet been able to try it out. I'm confused about 2 things though.
First, I have read about the A/M switch on the Helios and I thought that in one of the 2 positions, the aperture control ring would not change the physical aperture. On my Helios, irrespective of whether I have to switch to A or M or whether the small pin on the back is out or depressed, turning the aperture ring always moves the aperture blades. Have I misunderstood how this lens works or could my copy be damaged?
Second, I am getting really confused about adapters. I also have a Minolta MD which I plan to use on a m4/3 body (not yet purchased). The adapter for this has no glass element. However, if I were to try to use the same MD on my Canon 80d, I would need an adapter with a glass element (correct?). Turning back to the recently acquired Helios (M42 fit), am I reading it correctly that it will also fit on my 80d but without the glass element that the Minolta MD lens would need? And this is all to do with flange distances??
Sorry if this is basic stuff, but I am only just getting back into manual lenses and finding this whole adapter thing a bit of a minefield.
Thanks.
 
goinggreynow said:
Would really appreciate some help. It was only because of this thread that I have now acquired a Helios 44M. Looks clean & well cared for but not yet been able to try it out. I'm confused about 2 things though.
First, I have read about the A/M switch on the Helios and I thought that in one of the 2 positions, the aperture control ring would not change the physical aperture. On my Helios, irrespective of whether I have to switch to A or M or whether the small pin on the back is out or depressed, turning the aperture ring always moves the aperture blades. Have I misunderstood how this lens works or could my copy be damaged?
Second, I am getting really confused about adapters. I also have a Minolta MD which I plan to use on a m4/3 body (not yet purchased). The adapter for this has no glass element. However, if I were to try to use the same MD on my Canon 80d, I would need an adapter with a glass element (correct?). Turning back to the recently acquired Helios (M42 fit), am I reading it correctly that it will also fit on my 80d but without the glass element that the Minolta MD lens would need? And this is all to do with flange distances??
Sorry if this is basic stuff, but I am only just getting back into manual lenses and finding this whole adapter thing a bit of a minefield.
Thanks.
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that doesnt sound right to me on auto it should only stop down when the pin is depressed
 
It sounds like someone may have modified your Helios. It's not uncommon, although it usually involves wedging/gluing the pin down. Possibly done whilst a lens was stripped down for cleaning.

Glass vs. glass-less adaptors is a function of the relative register distance between the face of the lens mount and the sensor. Mirrorless cameras have very short distances which makes them easier to adapt to SLR mount lenses which have a greater distances - the adaptor acts as a spacer to provide the missing distance for correct focus. The m42 mount has a longer distance than the EOS so your Canon doesn't need any optical correction, but if you use an adaptor for a lens with a shorter register than the mount of your camera (or one where the difference in length isn't enough to provide for the physical mount adaption) a lens is required in the adaptor to optically correct for this.
 
niko said:
that doesnt sound right to me on auto it should only stop down when the pin is depressed
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Thanks for the reply nik.

Alastair said:
It sounds like someone may have modified your Helios. It's not uncommon, although it usually involves wedging/gluing the pin down. Possibly done whilst a lens was stripped down for cleaning.

Glass vs. glass-less adaptors is a function of the relative register distance between the face of the lens mount and the sensor. Mirrorless cameras have very short distances which makes them easier to adapt to SLR mount lenses which have a greater distances - the adaptor acts as a spacer to provide the missing distance for correct focus. The m42 mount has a longer distance than the EOS so your Canon doesn't need any optical correction, but if you use an adaptor for a lens with a shorter register than the mount of your camera (or one where the difference in length isn't enough to provide for the physical mount adaption) a lens is required in the adaptor to optically correct for this.
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Many thanks, Alastair. So does this mean I am likely to have a problem with the lens or will it just be case of ignoring the A/M switch and simply use the aperture ring to adjust the blades? Have to say I'm not really too sure about when you would normally use the A/M switch anyway (assuming it was working)!
Also, can I assume there will be no chance of a M42 lens (with adapter) fouling the mirror on my 80d?
 
goinggreynow said:
Thanks for the reply nik.


Many thanks, Alastair. So does this mean I am likely to have a problem with the lens or will it just be case of ignoring the A/M switch and simply use the aperture ring to adjust the blades? Have to say I'm not really too sure about when you would normally use the A/M switch anyway (assuming it was working)!
Also, can I assume there will be no chance of a M42 lens (with adapter) fouling the mirror on my 80d?
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you can just stop the lens after you focus without a problem. to explain it really badly:D the switch is basically for metering. some cameras needs the f.stop setting before others didn't-auto
 
goinggreynow said:
Also, can I assume there will be no chance of a M42 lens (with adapter) fouling the mirror on my 80d?
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I didn't have any problems with my old 40D, I believe it was the larger full-frame mirrors that were the problem.
 
Helios 44, now supported with a lens profile in Lightroom! :confused:
 
Ha - that's impressive, though for distortion and vigentting only I assume as colour casts etc must vary quite a bit between models?
 
Decided to move my Helios on as it's essentially just a paperweight (or weighing down my camera bag!). What's the going rate for one d'you think in excellent condition with the M42>FX adapter?

Say, £40 delivered?
 
£10 :)
The adaptor is worth more...
 
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