Who is home developing 8x10 and how?

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I am determined to take all B&W developing from 120 to 8x10 back home in the near future having just done a roll of 120 (my first in a while). The scanning always let me down but I think I am at a point where I am fairly happy with it (35mm is still not great on my flatbed). The only format I have never done is 8x10 and I would like to. I have one of the large paper drums which I believe can be used with not much chemical. I would have to refresh on exact numbers but I have seen it rolled on a counter top for agitation. I know there are the tray thingies (one was being sold here a couple years ago) and of course the Steersman Press but that's a bit out of my budget at the moment.
 
BTZS tubes. I haven't used them, but there are instructions on making a DIY version around. The AGO processor uses Paterson tanks. Inserts - I won't call them spirals - used to be made by 20th century camera. A fire halted production, and they may be off the market.

The cheapest solution has to be the taco method.

Fuller info on developing sheet film on my website.
 
Though I've got an SP-810, I am yet to use it as I have a huge backlog of 4x5 to develop before I get to the much more recently exposed 8x10 sheets. Fortunately I bought it at least a year ago when it was marginally cheaper than it is now. I'm hoping to do some stand dev in it this coming weekend so can report back on initial thoughts if that would help?
 
BTZS tubes. I haven't used them, but there are instructions on making a DIY version around. The AGO processor uses Paterson tanks. Inserts - I won't call them spirals - used to be made by 20th century camera. A fire halted production, and they may be off the market.

The cheapest solution has to be the taco method.

Fuller info on developing sheet film on my website.
Not too different to using the Jobo paper drum fro what I can see and I already have one of those so may give it a go on something not too important soon.
Though I've got an SP-810, I am yet to use it as I have a huge backlog of 4x5 to develop before I get to the much more recently exposed 8x10 sheets. Fortunately I bought it at least a year ago when it was marginally cheaper than it is now. I'm hoping to do some stand dev in it this coming weekend so can report back on initial thoughts if that would help?

Yes I would love to hear how you get on with it. not cheap though, are they? I know @soupdragon was selling some 8x10 dev stuff but sadly I couldn't get down to collect it.
 
I use a Paterson Orbital for 10x8. I have 3 BTZS tubes, they are actually welding rod storage tubes, I checked the makers name on the bottom, and they were quite a lot cheaper than the photographic suppliers, about a quarter to a third.

Ian
 
Another Paterson Orbital user here. So far I've used it for up to four sheets of 4x5 and two sheets of half-plate film.

I haven't developed any 8x10 film with it yet because so far I've only shot paper negative pinholes in 8x10. Since they can be developed by inspection under a red safelight, it's easier to do this in trays in my tiny darkroom. But if I do ever feel rich enough to buy some 8x10 film, I'll be able to use the Paterson orbital.
 
Paterson Orbitals are expensive nowadays, but they're really useful for LF. I haven't done 8x10, but I've done wholeplate at 8&1/2 x 6&3/4.

I'm no expert on LF, but the Orbital really scores for giving each sheet it's best developing time, rather than other systems which develop several sheets at a time whether they needed exactly the same or not.

The Orbital can be used with 100ml or so of developer per sheet, and possibly up to 200ml. This is an issue with highly diluted developers such as HC-110 dil B at 1:31 or Rodinal at 1:50 but less so at other dilution.

They come up on eBay from time to time, so maybe keep an eye open there.
 
I've got an SP-810 that I bought a couple of years ago, still to be christened with dev juice. I'm struggling for time to do 35mm and MF, let alone LF, but so want to have another go.
 
Looks like I will keep an eye out for an Orbital then. The SP-810 looks good but bit to pricey at the moment, especially for the frequency I am shooting. I have been sending two at a time to Harman.
 
From memory of a chat on the Paterson stand at the Photography Show in 2024, the required moulds for the orbital are no longer available, and are too expensive to remake. You might, depending on your DIY skills, find the Afghan camera something worth looking at.
 
From memory of a chat on the Paterson stand at the Photography Show in 2024, the required moulds for the orbital are no longer available, and are too expensive to remake. You might, depending on your DIY skills, find the Afghan camera something worth looking at.

The company who did the mouldings threw them away, the same happened to Mike Walker and the moulds for his Titan cameras.

Ian
 
And then they declared bankruptcy, and restarted as a new company next day, debt free.:mad:
 
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